1.5" Crowfoot? Other ideas?

[Jeff95TA]

I have 4" square tubing on the base of a structure that needs to be bolted down to a test bed (see attachment). There are 1" hex head bolts that are 1-7/8" in from the edge of the tubing. You can't get a socket and torque wrench in there, and there's more structure above the corner bolts, so I can't put a thru-hole above it for access like the other bolts.

These are Grade 8 bolts that need to be torqued to around 600 lb-ft, so the torque wrench is 3/4" drive.

My thought was a 12-pt box end crowfoot wrench, which is still a close fit. The torque wrench can only swing one direction due to interference with the test bed. An open end crowfoot would have to be moved 60° to the next position on the bolt head, which wouldn't work.

I found a 3/4" drive, 1-1/2" crowfoot from Imperial-Newton, but there's a 20-day lead time. Anyone know any other sources?

Other ideas? An interchangeable head torque wrench is an option, but the only ones big enough for 600 lb-ft are the single setting style that require calibration equipment to set the torque value (vs. a twist handle style).

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is it possible to swap the bolt and nut, then weld the nut in place ?

 

[Banjorear]

May seem like a silly response, do you don't have access from the other side or are they sitting in the spot blind?

 

[Jeff95TA]

I forgot to mention that there's no nut. These are threading into tapped holes, so no access from other side.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I forgot to mention that there's no nut. These are threading into tapped holes, so no access from other side.

I guess that rules out welding the nut.

Is there bolt threads sticking out the other side ? Does something attach to those threads ?

or.... The bolts go through the tubing and bolt the frame work down to something else ?


Sorry, I guess I'm just at a loss as to how this project goes together ?

 

[dutchgray]

If you can't wait 20 days make you own crows foot by cutting up a wrench and welding on a 3/4" socket or the drive end of an extension.

 

[Jeff95TA]

The 4x4 tubing sits on a test bed. The 1" bolts thread into blind holes on the test bed.

 

[Jeff95TA]

If you can't wait 20 days make you own crows foot by cutting up a wrench and welding on a 3/4" socket or the drive end of an extension.

I may suggest something like that. It's at a customer's facility, and I know they have some capabilities there. My only concern is the 600 lb-ft on a fabbed-up tool & injury.

Worst case we scrap the base and use 6x6 tubing.

 

[SantaAna12]

Torque adapter?

 

[gungatim]

can you drill an access hole through the tubing above the bolt with a hole saw? re-weld the plug back in if needed?

 

[metaldad]

600ft#?
with a crowfoot?
the jaws will spread, especially a '12' point

 

[rlitman]

1.5" Crowfoot? Other ideas?

600ft#?
with a crowfoot?
the jaws will spread, especially a '12' point

Jaws won't spread on a BOX end like he said.

Oh, and you should shoot the engineer who came up with that corner.

 

[zoso]

This seems to be a twist handle torque wrench that goes to 600ftlbs andtakes different heads: https://store.snapon.com/Product-Details-QD4IN800-P649962.aspx

12pt Box end head: https://store.snapon.com/Non-Catalog-Items-TORQ-ADAPT-1-1-2IN-BOX-END-P9730000.aspx

 

[Jeff95TA]

can you drill an access hole through the tubing above the bolt with a hole saw? re-weld the plug back in if needed?

There's structure above the bolt. We're trying to avoid lifting it off because the test equipment will already be mounted.

Oh, and you should shoot the engineer who came up with that corner.

I was on the fringe of the design, and analyzed the structure for strength, so I'm kind of to blame too since I should have seen this. I've already slapped myself accordingly!

 

[gungatim]

ok then, time to engineer a different approach. like screwing in the bolts and leaving a gap, then using a bolted double wedge that goes underneath that can be tightened to compress through the side to apply the proper force...good luck...

 

[LXCam]

Notch the side of the frame adjacent to the open end then if needed weld it back on. Then you can use a torque adapter.

 

[APEowner]

I hate it when that happens. Can you just weld it to the test bench and then cut it off when you're done? If not I'd go with the custom wrench.

 

[Jeff95TA]

Torque adapter?

Notch the side of the frame adjacent to the open end then if needed weld it back on. Then you can use a torque adapter.

I guess the box end crowfoot is kind of a short torque adapter. That's probably the best bet along with notching the tubing.

I appreciate all the input everyone.

 

[LXCam]

Can you change it out to a socket head bolt?, then you could cut down a Allen wrench and then certainly use a torque adapter. They even make socket heads in reduced height which would give you another .100 to .200 of clearance.

This isn't a reduced head, but it only requires a 3/4" driver which would give you plenty of space.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91251a916/=10akrfq

 

[eddiemeddiem]

Yeah, make a special box end adapter for your torque wrench.

Another method would be to use the "turn of the nut method" to rotate it a prescribed amount past hand tight to develop your preload. Once you know the degrees of rotation required, use a slugging wrench or a regular combo wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rlitman]

I was on the fringe of the design, and analyzed the structure for strength, so I'm kind of to blame too since I should have seen this. I've already slapped myself accordingly!

Very well.

How about using a box wrench, and pulling on it with a dynamometer?
Drill through a cheap wrench at a known distance and install a clevis (drilling that'll be fun)?

 

[KnurledNut]

Is there enough clearance for a impact swivel socket?

Here is a GP 3/4 drive:
http://www.toolbarn.com/grey-pneumatic-3048u.html?gclid=COj5kYn95skCFYOAaQodc_MLMQ&ad=54711680414


Or if you need more strength, the same in 1" drive:
http://www.toolbarn.com/grey-pneumatic-4048u.html?gclid=CI6pzpj-5skCFQ8uaQodqEgPmA&ad=54711680414