VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[Fretters]

Why paint? Just polish it with Mother's

I'm with Outlaw'. Always a shame to hide a nice bit of brass.

Polish it with mothers what though?

 

[toolferone]

No pics... but I simply sat the freeze plug in the open end of the socket on the bench (cup facing up) and tapped on the carriage bolt double nut with a hammer. Not a perfect way as the freeze plug wants to move around and I had to re-center the carriage bolt head each time before tapping it. A machined convex piece of stock and slightly larger carriage bolt head or equivalent would make this real easy... especially for these brass plugs.

If you do a search on leather sandbag, you will find metal smiths use them to beat metal into shape. Just a FYI

 

[Outlawmws]

I'm with Outlaw'. Always a shame to hide a nice bit of brass.

Polish it with mothers what though?

Yeah, I forgot you guys across the pond(s) may not have had this experience...

Why? What did you think I meant?

 

[vertguy]

After further thought and the great "recommendations" from this thread, mine will get a good polish and no paint!

I looked into one of those bags. But they seemed a bit pricey for limited use. Then again, I have many tools like that in the garage


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Fordriver6]

FR: I doubt your key was flipped and more likely the date stamp wore off. a lot of Wilton bullet vises were sold to government and used in public school's shops so they had a lot of use. if you want to confirm and take it off and flip it to see I won't stop you, but just saying usually the ones without a date are the old Patent or Chicago stamped ones.


Tool: if your Wilton doesn't have a date stamp i'd guess it was because it was well used like I mentioned in the above post to FR. if more pop up without dates in our date stamping thread that I started, but Bluebolt took a lot of time compiling the data then we'll maybe rethink the no date. for now i'd say just well used at some shop probably in a school.

Drives : I went ahead and drove the pins out of the key because they looked like they have been out before. Alas, no date stamp on the other side. In some ways the C1 looks as if it was used right much from the condition of the paint, over spray and a small chip missing from the dynamic jaw; but not in others such as hardly any marks on the slide. Very well could have worn off and could have been stamped lightly to begin with.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[1982fxr]

I have a big wilton 1646 utility vise that takes those stamped steel pipe jaws...(that are always missing) anyone got a line on a pair?

 

[Shiftless]

After further thought and the great "recommendations" from this thread, mine will get a good polish and no paint!

I looked into one of those bags. But they seemed a bit pricey for limited use. Then again, I have many tools like that in the garage


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here's an idea...

For a one time or experimental use, why not fill an old sock with sand? I need an end cap for my 3 inch bullet... if I try it, I will take pics. Dont be surprised to see sand all over my workbench!

 

[bagged89s10]

I finally got around to modifying a brass freeze plug to replace the missing dust cap on my 3.5 inch. So I scrounged around the garage for some way to put a dome into the flat plug and I found a large cap screw with a 1.25 inch head. After smoothing the head a bit on the cap screw, I started slowly tapping the inside of the plug with it resting in a large socket (36mm to be exact). Although a 1.5 inch head cap screw would have worked better, I went with what was available.



I plan to paint it later, but another fun little project complete.

Great minds think alike. !! Nice job

Great job on those caps. Where do you get those freeze plugs? Any part number I should be looking for?

 

[drivesitfar]

Bagged: I think Vert and Get buy them at their local auto parts store just like regular freeze plugs. you just need to order the correct size diameter and I think Get said it was only about $1.50 for brass while aluminum was $1.09 IIRC.

don't they look cool and would look great on your vises that already look like they are art with all the bling and shine you do?

 

[vertguy]

Drives is correct... mine was a 1-5/8 inch OD brass expansion plug (Dorman 333082.1) and it ran $1.99 from Advance Auto.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I use a piece of wood instead of the socket. As vert said a little larger head would of been better, and that's where the old handle end of the Prentiss 98 came in handy.

 

[Outlawmws]

Here's an idea...

For a one time or experimental use, why not fill an old sock with sand? I need an end cap for my 3 inch bullet... if I try it, I will take pics. Dont be surprised to see sand all over my workbench!

I suspect the sock would have too much stretch. The leather sandbag has minimal stretch, but will hold a shape pretty well. Maybe a shooters sandbag.

 

[KMScott]

Here's an idea...

For a one time or experimental use, why not fill an old sock with sand? I need an end cap for my 3 inch bullet... if I try it, I will take pics. Dont be surprised to see sand all over my workbench!

I have a lead blanket that works for me. I use it to pound out dents in the original end caps then finish polishing on my wood lathe. As for new endcaps I make mine a different way. These are the sizes I have found so far. 1", 1-11/16, 2", 1-1/8, 2-3/16 and 2-1/2.

 

[Fretters]

Why? What did you think I meant?

I daren't even imagine.

After further thought and the great "recommendations" from this thread, mine will get a good polish and no paint!

Jolly good decision. Plain brass and copper always add an extra touch to something, IMHO, and should only ever be polished, if one chooses, but not painted.

 

[Fretters]

I have a lead blanket that works for me.

How long does the lead stay usable before it compressess beyond usefulness Kevin?

I use a piece of wood instead of the socket.

That's the type of method I generally use. Simple but works well.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Parkinson 3C swivel base. It looks like a copy of Parker's brake shoes. The bad is its broken and someone tried to fix it with solder It is one solid piece instead of a swivel pin hinge like Parker. I think the top mounting plate has been replaced or modified because none of the holes align like they should and it is a strange shape. There are extra bolts just to keep it locked down and from swiveling.

 

[Fretters]

Cheers for those photo's Get'. What do you think of the vice itself? How does it compare to your native iron?

 

[McBrownie]

Parkinson 3C swivel base. It looks like a copy of Parker's brake shoes. The bad is its broken and someone tried to fix it with solder It is one solid piece instead of a swivel pin hinge like Parker. I think the top mounting plate has been replaced or modified because none of the holes align like they should and it is a strange shape. There are extra bolts just to keep it locked down and from swiveling.

My older Parker 203 is a one piece as well. It's much harder to lock down than the two piece in my 974.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Fretters, I like the spring over the screw to keep the backlash at "0". The slide & housing are machined c!ose to keep everything tight. The housing is as stout as any US vise, the cast in nut is not what we are use to seeing. The weight difference may be in slide as it is not as thick as a 6" US vise typically is. I already put the housing in the E Tank to loosen up the paint for stripping. The jaw screws will be drilled out as the slots are almost flat
After media blasting (I know what your thinking right now) the brake shoes and base I found a previous attempt at arc welding the shoe back together. I now have a larger oxy-acet torch so I will try brazing it together.

McBrownie, Interesting, I haven't seen a one piece shoe on a Parker before. I have two older ones with swivel bases that I never took apart. I will have to check them out.

 

[McBrownie]

Fretters, I like the spring over the screw to keep the backlash at "0". The slide & housing are machined c!ose to keep everything tight. The housing is as stout as any US vise, the cast in nut is not what we are use to seeing. The weight difference may be in slide as it is not as thick as a 6" US vise typically is. I already put the housing in the E Tank to loosen up the paint for stripping. The jaw screws will be drilled out as the slots are almost flat
After media blasting (I know what your thinking right now) the brake shoes and base I found a previous attempt at arc welding the shoe back together. I now have a larger oxy-acet torch so I will try brazing it together.

McBrownie, Interesting, I haven't seen a one piece shoe on a Parker before. I have two older ones with swivel bases that I never took apart. I will have to check them out.

Get,

This isn't a great picture of my 203 (3 1/2" jaws), but it's too cold tonight to get a better one. You can see that it still has the pin, but it's a press fit into a single cast piece.

View media item 42919

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I don't recall who it was that posted about removing jaw screws with a bit on a breaker bar tightened between the jaws. I used just the bit from an impact driver and a wrench.
This works great !!!!!!

THANKS TO WHOEVER IT WAS.

 

[drivesitfar]

Get: I think Shift mentioned it, but not 100% on that. I wasn't quite sure what he meant so thanks for the picture. looks like it got R done.

ALL: Mark from Indiana mentioned on the big vise thread to use furniture wax and silicone spray on my wood vise. he agreed with me it's a good idea to throw a rag over the open threads before placing a piece of wood in the jaws to cut or sand to keep grit and debris out of the threads.

have a great weekend

 

[Fordriver6]

Here is a copy of the post I just put in the main vise thread of the restoration of a Parker 973 1/2 I just completed.

As promised, here is the restoration of the Parker 973 ½ I recently acquired. Here it is in the condition that I got it.



I began by taking the swivel bolt and wrench out, then flipped it over and removed the 1 ¼ bolt from the bottom of the vise.



I shot some PB Blaster down in the swivel part to help loosen it up to get it to separate. It finally came apart and then I unscrewed the lead screw all the way out and removed the dynamic jaw from the base.



The screw holding the front collar was the next thing to be removed. Made sure to remove the lock washer from the collar as it was stuck in there.
Then pulled the lead screw out of the dynamic jaw.


Next up was using a punch to get the jaw pins out. Having another vise to hold the Parker was extremely useful. Wound up destroying the cheap punch I was using. I bought a Mayhew set this morning to replace it. Did manage to get the pins out using some other punches and a small rod I used as a punch.





Like last time, I was working alone, so don’t have any pictures of me using the wire wheel, but I used a combination of the wire wheel on my bench grinder, one on a angle grinder, as well as one on a dremel.


More painters tape and paper towels to keep paint off of contact areas. Used a plastic shopping bag on the slide this time to save some of the painters tape thanks to some tips posted by other members who saw my last restoration.



Didn’t get any pictures of me spray bombing it with Rust-Oleum gloss black, but instead of going with the usual white lettering over black, I went with lime green to be a little different. I have always liked green accents on black. Tried the brush method for the lettering this time instead of the paper towel dabbing I’ve used in the past.


Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Here is the finished product. . The lettering came out really well for a guy who can screw up a stick figure pretty regularly.




Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[McBrownie]

Got a delivery from the Good Reverend today for my Wilton 9300. I decided a new handle was needed and also sent Kevin the spindle to get a Parker-style "speed handle" set screw installed. Here is the before with my Browns helmet paint job. That was supposed to bring a winning season to Cleveland, but seems to have resulted in a Broncos Super Bowl win. That paint job no longer exists.

Here is the before with the standard 9/16" dia 8" handle. Pretty dinged up and kind of a pain to use on a vise with almost no backlash.
View media item 58201
Here it is with a new 5/8" dia 10" handle with the speed handle option. A really nice job by Kevin and gives me the precision of a Wilton with the easier use of a Parker.

View media item 58655View media item 58657
The new set screw. There was not room for a spring and ball bearing, so Kevin made up a nylon plug that works just fine.
View media item 58658
The spindle knob was mushroomed, so boring it out to 5/8" made for a nicer fit.
View media item 58659
Ready for another 50 years.

 

[bagged89s10]

VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

Got a delivery from the Good Reverend today for my Wilton 9300. I decided a new handle was needed and also sent Kevin the spindle to get a Parker-style "speed handle" set screw installed. Here is the before with my Browns helmet paint job. That was supposed to bring a winning season to Cleveland, but seems to have resulted in a Broncos Super Bowl win. That paint job no longer exists.



Here is the before with the standard 9/16" dia 8" handle. Pretty dinged up and kind of a pain to use on a vise with almost no backlash.

View media item 58201


Here it is with a new 5/8" dia 10" handle with the speed handle option. A really nice job by Kevin and gives me the precision of a Wilton with the easier use of a Parker.



View media item 58655
View media item 58657


The new set screw. There was not room for a spring and ball bearing, so Kevin made up a nylon plug that works just fine.

View media item 58658


The spindle knob was mushroomed, so boring it out to 5/8" made for a nicer fit.

View media item 58659


Ready for another 50 years.

That's an awesome setup! I'm nervous about drilling and tapping a spindle to put in a set screw. I'll have to try it on my Wilton 9300. What's the nylon plug look like?

 

[slotard]

I like that idea too. I'd almost like to put a thumbscrew or similar there though, so I can do it without any other tools. I wonder if I could manage it on my mini lathe or whether it's too big.

 

[McBrownie]

Bagged,

Here are a couple of spares. A little under 5/16" in diameter and about an 1/8" thick and made out of nylon.

Slo,

No need for a thumb screw. Just snug up the set screw and the handle stays wherever you slide it to.

 

[drivesitfar]

McB: Amazing and looking even better now. i like the speed handle option too.

Slotard: i bought this Morgan 88 that has a bolt that is sort of an option like you are talking about that snugs in the handle in any position for quick turns of the handle.

 

[bagged89s10]

McB: Amazing and looking even better now. i like the speed handle option too.



Slotard: i bought this Morgan 88 that has a bolt that is sort of an option like you are talking about that snugs in the handle in any position for quick turns of the handle.

Drives I have a Parker that somebody took out the setscrew and put a Bolton just like they did on that Morgan. Of course the bolt snapped off when I went to loosen it so i have to drill it out now.



But there's really no need to put a bolt or thumbscrew in. Usually the small spring behind the set screw on a parket gives just enough tension where the handle will stay put but you can also slide it back-and-forth.

 

[bagged89s10]

Bagged,



Here are a couple of spares. A little under 5/16" in diameter and about an 1/8" thick and made out of nylon.



Slo,



No need for a thumb screw. Just snug up the set screw and the handle stays wherever you slide it to.

Ahh it's the size of the little piece of steel Parker used behind the spring. Is it just a piece of nylon or some special material, and did you buy them in those diameters? Where do I get them? I'm going to use those from now on on all my Parker restorations.

 

[McBrownie]

Ahh it's the size of the little piece of steel Parker used behind the spring. Is it just a piece of nylon or some special material, and did you buy them in those diameters? Where do I get them? I'm going to use those from now on on all my Parker restorations.

KMScott made them. I think it's just nylon rod. Nothing fancy.

 

[KMScott]

KMScott made them. I think it's just nylon rod. Nothing fancy.

I machined them round in my CNC, I had a block of Nylon 6/6. There is several types of Nylon but this stuff holds its shape. McBrownie will be the test pilot on this one.

There was only 3/8 of space to work in. I have 1/4 balls I like to use but did not have the room on this one. The other spindles I reworked had more room to work with (7/16 minimum)and we decided to try a piece of Teflon but it was way to soft and would not stay tight. The Nylon worked. It is the same stuff they use for hammer heads. The spud was machined at .245 diameter and .150 thick and the 5/16:18 set screw was shortened to a 1/4 inch. The tap drill size for a 5/16:18 thread is .257. McB came up with this idea and took the risk.

 

[drivesitfar]

McB: nice upgrade. did you ship the Wilton's screw with hub on it to KM? or did you cut off the handle first to ship it and how did you ship if you did? nice idea with the speed handle and do you or KM have a picture of that piece of nylon you are mentioning? who cut the hole to 5/8 or did you just dremel it a little bigger? how hard was it to drill and tap the hole in the end of the hub? giving up on the Browns by changing color?

FR: nice restoration and the plastic bag saves a little time and tape so happy on of us mentioned it on your first restoration. i've heard taking Parker's jaws off and replacing them are a PITA so not surprised you broke a punch. the only thing i think you might do is make sure to primer the inside of the static except where the slide rubs or even BLO or wax so it doesn't rust. WELL DONE overall and thanks again for sharing.

 

[bagged89s10]

I machined them round in my CNC, I had a block of Nylon 6/6. There is several types of Nylon but this stuff holds its shape. McBrownie will be the test pilot on this one.



There was only 3/8 of space to work in. I have 1/4 balls I like to use but did not have the room on this one. The other spindles I reworked had more room to work with (7/16 minimum)and we decided to try a piece of Teflon but it was way to soft and would not stay tight. The Nylon worked. It is the same stuff they use for hammer heads. The spud was machined at .245 diameter and .150 thick and the 5/16:18 set screw was shortened to a 1/4 inch. The tap drill size for a 5/16:18 thread is .257. McB came up with this idea and took the risk.

Ok I see now. I like the idea of using the nylon. I looked and I can buy nylon rods and turn them down to the correct diameter if I have to.

Also I remember ritzblitz making handles with a grove in the center of the handle for a ball detent to hold the handle in place. He sleeved the hole in the spindle before putting the handle through. A lot more work but very cool.

 

[McBrownie]

McB: nice upgrade. did you ship the Wilton's screw with hub on it to KM? or did you cut off the handle first to ship it and how did you ship if you did? nice idea with the speed handle and do you or KM have a picture of that piece of nylon you are mentioning? who cut the hole to 5/8 or did you just dremel it a little bigger? how hard was it to drill and tap the hole in the end of the hub? giving up on the Browns by changing color?

Drives,

I shipped it out to Kevin. It fit in a medium flat rate box. I cut the handle off first just to save Kevin the effort. Kevin also bored out the spindle to 5/8". I posted a picture of nylon plugs above. They are pretty simple. Not giving up on the Browns either. That color scheme wasn't good luck, apparently. Well, it seems to have worked for Denver. We hired the Moneyball guy to work for the Browns this year. How can we lose?

 

[drivesitfar]

McB: on my cell phone those nylon plugs looked like pins on a slide so didn't notice them. simple idea even better if it works.

as far as your Browns I don't know what to tell you, but if they don't win a Super Bowl soon you might be like us Seahawk fans were almost giving up hope when we won one 38 years after they became a team.

good luck with trying to figure out the color schemes and luck part.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

I machined them round in my CNC, I had a block of Nylon 6/6. There is several types of Nylon but this stuff holds its shape. McBrownie will be the test pilot on this one.

There was only 3/8 of space to work in. I have 1/4 balls I like to use but did not have the room on this one. The other spindles I reworked had more room to work with (7/16 minimum)and we decided to try a piece of Teflon but it was way to soft and would not stay tight. The Nylon worked. It is the same stuff they use for hammer heads. The spud was machined at .245 diameter and .150 thick and the 5/16:18 set screw was shortened to a 1/4 inch. The tap drill size for a 5/16:18 thread is .257. McB came up with this idea and took the risk.

Could you not have carried on drilling through to the back and placed a spring and ball in there where there is more meat?

 

[KMScott]

Could you not have carried on drilling through to the back and placed a spring and ball in there where there is more meat?

Yes. The only draw back is if you have to replace the spring if it gets gummed up then the handle has to be removed and the set screw on out side would should be loc-tite in. Cw, the nylon plug worked and easy to tighten and replace.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Good point, if it isn't broken don't fix it so to speak.

 

[Jcrapola]

Have u considered using nylon tipped set screws?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-tip-set-screws/=11fpjft

or set screws made from nylon?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-set-screws/=11fpj18

We use em to apply pressure to stuffs for fixturing all the time. Likely easier than making a custom length set screw and a custom nylon insert.