CSFJ
Well-known member
Thanks. I didn't get it in the pics, but I was able to find a motor closer to the correct vintage with the on/off switch in the base so I could ditch the light switch on the side.
Show us your cool, "old" drill press
- Thread starter rickairmedic
- Start date
bubinga
Well-known member
Oh man, that turned out awesome! Great work!
Waterlooboy2hp
Well-known member
Here are 3, that I have restored and modified a bit, in some cases. --- John
toddmp
Well-known member
love that delta!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I like that baby camelback!
What brand is it?
What brand is it?
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Waterlooboy2hp
Well-known member
==================================
I have no idea, of the brand. There was no ID info anywhere on it. This is all I had, along with the original motor. The motor was mounted an a homemade wooden box and sat on the workbench. The motor platform was missing and had been torched off. One foot was busted off the motor also. I would guess that some sort of accident broke the platform and motor foot in a fall.
I was able to date the motor to the latter half of the 1920s. ---- John
bubinga
Well-known member
like the light on the last one, that's not factory is it?
Waterlooboy2hp
Well-known member
==============================
Far from being factory. Interesting what you can do with the bottom section of a Stainless Steel cocktail shaker and some left over brass lamp parts. --- John
crguy
Well-known member
Here are pics of my pre 1900 Mechanics' Machine Co. friction drive drill press. It's reported to be America's first variable speed drill press.
Was originally line shaft driven with 2 pulleys - fast & loose - on the input shaft. The shifting fork is still there.
Only one I know of - Anybody else seen one?
Was originally line shaft driven with 2 pulleys - fast & loose - on the input shaft. The shifting fork is still there.
Only one I know of - Anybody else seen one?
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Techie1961
Well-known member
CSFJ
Well-known member
Thank you.
Tedley
Well-known member
That's interesting and a statement contrary to a similar claim attributed to the patents associated with the Hamilton Varimatic evolution and original inventor.
I'd rather not continue disseminating misinformation so Thank you on that one.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Tedley
Well-known member
That's interesting and a statement predating and somewhat contrary to a similar claim attributed to the patents associated with the Hamilton Varimatic evolution and original inventor.
Adolph Muehlmatt applied 1920 patented his varible speed cone drive in 1924.
The claim I spoke of (from a paper by Michael D. Connor)
" this drill press was unique in that it was the first capable of drilling/ boring very precise very small holes in metals at low to very high spindle speeds the speed of the spindle being operator controlled / continuously adjustable multiple speed ranges"
I'd rather not continue disseminating misinformation so Thank you on that one.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Ted, within patent language its not necessarily misinformation, but unique patent claims. He was apparently claiming other features besides variable speed, so he takes it to a different level with perhaps a new slant at variable speeds.
crguy
Well-known member
The Mechanics drill press is more than 20 years earlier than the Hamilton.
Tedley
Well-known member
Today I bought this beat to hlll Buffalo Junior of sorts...
Kenmore motor attached to makeshift mount. Missing middle pulleys switched to v-belt and a hundred holes it the table. Everything turns ok but return spring mechanism if there was one is not working now.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Kenmore motor attached to makeshift mount. Missing middle pulleys switched to v-belt and a hundred holes it the table. Everything turns ok but return spring mechanism if there was one is not working now.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
crguy
Well-known member
Today I bought this beat to hlll Buffalo Junior of sorts...
Kenmore motor attached to makeshift mount. Missing middle pulleys switched to v-belt and a hundred holes it the table. Everything turns ok but return spring mechanism if there was one is not working now.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
That drive is seriously cobbled up, and several of the original parts are missing.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Today I bought this beat to hlll Buffalo Junior of sorts...
Kenmore motor attached to makeshift mount. Missing middle pulleys switched to v-belt and a hundred holes it the table. Everything turns ok but return spring mechanism if there was one is not working now.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
That drive is seriously cobbled up, and several of the original parts are missing.
I'm pretty sure he's well aware of it...
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Fretters
Well-known member
That looks quite a nice piece Tedley. Definitely been cobbled together a bit, but has potential.
Subtle.
I'm pretty sure he's well aware of it...
Subtle.
DanZ3
Active member
I finished cleaning up the Craftsman drill press I picked up a couple weeks ago. I rewired the motor and added an on-off toggle switch and cord. Cleaned and lubricated the bearings. Put on a new belt and it's ready to live again.
jakemac
Well-known member
Nice ! I wish the paint on mine looked that good. 
Jolomite
Well-known member
I finished cleaning up the Craftsman drill press I picked up a couple weeks ago. I rewired the motor and added an on-off toggle switch and cord. Cleaned and lubricated the bearings. Put on a new belt and it's ready to live again.
I love that you left the original paint on it. However you shined it up looks great. RocknRoll!
McBrownie
Well-known member
First off, don't blast me for this solution! I don't have access to a welder and this was good enough for a homeowner machine.
The situation is that I have an old Penncraft (Delta) drill press that I have posted about here before. It has a ding in the table that didn't really bother me all that much except it had a tendency to fill up with chips and when I would try to move a piece or a vise around, it would hang up on the ding.
I am building on an old Western stacked leather washer knife and I used AcraGlas epoxy to hold the handle assembly together. I decided to use some of the leftover AcraGlas to fill the ding and clean up the hole in the middle of the table.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas--prod1033.aspx
I used a socket (covered in release agent) and some plumbers putty to hold it in place and to keep the epoxy from running everywhere. Then I just made sure the table was level and filled things up.
View media item 58841View media item 58842
I taped the table and sanded things down with 120 grit.
View media item 58843
Then I removed the tape and carefully continued with 220, 320, 600, 1200 grit and steel wool.
View media item 58845
Sure you can see it, but it's hard to tell where it is when you run your hand over the table. And, if I ever have access to welder, I'm sure I can just heat this up and get it out of there.
Here is a shot with the almost completed knife. A little more sanding and sharpening to go.
View media item 58844
The situation is that I have an old Penncraft (Delta) drill press that I have posted about here before. It has a ding in the table that didn't really bother me all that much except it had a tendency to fill up with chips and when I would try to move a piece or a vise around, it would hang up on the ding.
I am building on an old Western stacked leather washer knife and I used AcraGlas epoxy to hold the handle assembly together. I decided to use some of the leftover AcraGlas to fill the ding and clean up the hole in the middle of the table.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas--prod1033.aspx
I used a socket (covered in release agent) and some plumbers putty to hold it in place and to keep the epoxy from running everywhere. Then I just made sure the table was level and filled things up.
View media item 58841View media item 58842
I taped the table and sanded things down with 120 grit.
View media item 58843
Then I removed the tape and carefully continued with 220, 320, 600, 1200 grit and steel wool.
View media item 58845
Sure you can see it, but it's hard to tell where it is when you run your hand over the table. And, if I ever have access to welder, I'm sure I can just heat this up and get it out of there.
Here is a shot with the almost completed knife. A little more sanding and sharpening to go.
View media item 58844
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Good Job McB!
Pics of the knife are called for! (I think that was the same model that was my very first hunting knife. I can't recall where that one got off to...)
Pics of the knife are called for! (I think that was the same model that was my very first hunting knife. I can't recall where that one got off to...)
crguy
Well-known member
First off, don't blast me for this solution! I don't have access to a welder and this was good enough for a homeowner machine.
Why would you even consider welding that hole? Do you have any experience welding cast iron?
The epoxy plug is just fine, and as far as I'm concerned, anything beyond a mill file & 120 grit is Overkill.
McBrownie
Well-known member
Cr,
I'm have absolutely zero experience welding cast iron or anything else.
However, overkill is a big part of GJ, so don't take that away from me. Outlaw,
I'll get some pics up.
Bogash
Well-known member
You guys have me hooked on the old shop tools. 1959? Atlas 9325 I brought home yesterday and cleaned up real nice. Works perfectly. 1936-37 Walker - Turner Driver just got in garage tonight. Works great even though it's the wrong color! Newbie post here, too, about crazy electrical whatjamajig box on it. 
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Did someone say "knife"?
My father got a Marples hunting knife in the 20's and gave it to me when I went off to college. The leather handle was similar to yours and I opted to replace it about 30 years ago. Here's a pic of it with it's linen micarta handle and the first ever sheath I ever made. I apologize for the green corrosion on the brass hilt, but I actually never use that knife.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Ex, Mother's Aluminum polish will make that brass shine like new...
I may have that. I'll try it this week and check it out.
bubinga
Well-known member
................==============================
Far from being factory. Interesting what you can do with the bottom section of a Stainless Steel cocktail shaker and some left over brass lamp parts. --- John
LIKEbubinga
Well-known member
Since I haven't gotten around to starting a thread for it yet, here's the press I picked up about a month ago. Before and after clean up and paint.
...............LIKEbubinga
Well-known member
Yes,
logan lathe uses a factory "V to flat" pulley drive fro, the factory, and it works quite well.
Bogash
Well-known member
I think I already put this Atlas up when I got it, but not with the new/old repurposed MAC side box for a stand. I'm short so this is a decent height for me, perfect for my almost 12 yr old. I think it came out cool and was much needed, that Atlas with the Dayton motor was VERY tippy to the back.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nice re-purpose!
Ntzabtntr
Member
Here's an old W.J&F Barnes drill press that I bought a few years ago...
Neat machinery dealer tag...
Original decal...
Cleaned up and painted...
Neat machinery dealer tag...
Original decal...
Cleaned up and painted...
Bogash
Well-known member
Here's an old W.J&F Barnes drill press that I bought a few years ago...
Neat machinery dealer tag...
That tag is SWEET! Cool machine!
Worst part is the table moint arm - broke right through. I think the home-made table pivot was just a tad too small, so locking it down tight snapped the cast iron. Looks like it started a long time ago and finally cleaved when the PO moved it out if storage. Still, it's a cool old thing, and seems common enough that the parts might turn up.
