Wood Shop and Carpentry Considerations

[scootermcrad]

Hey everyone!

I've been planning my garage addition for awhile now and even got the ball rolling on the quoting part. In the past month or so I started thinking maybe I better consider having a more serious space for wood working. Metal work has been on the forefront for me for years, but having a sparked interests in carpentry from the restoration of our home and property has made me think I want to do more with it.

For those of you that have a dedicated wood working area (hobby or otherwise) if you could provide some insight as to a workable layout and things to consider I would really appreciate it. I know I will need to divide any metal working areas from the wood working area, so for any of you that deal with having both under one roof I would like to hear about that as well.

At the end of the day I will end up having a working area of approximately 50 x 22 and a second story (which WAS going to be the dedicated wood working space) of about 16 x 18-ish (possibly more).

Large tools will include a table saw, 14" band saw, planer (not sure model yet), 6" jointer, belt/disc sander, router table, drill press, dust collection (not sure for that yet) storage for all power tools (biscuit joiner, jig saw, nail guns, etc), clamps and hand tools, and of course a construction space with table. Seems like I will run out of room fast! I also have an early 1900's 28" band saw that will take up some space, but will be used pretty infrequently.

Any pictures of layouts and setups as well as anything to consider for the space that needs to be thought about when planning the structure in general would really be appreciated.

THANKS!

 

[Thumper68]

Half of my 32x40 building is dedicated to wood working, that area also contains the bath room and the shop sink so the area is about 22x26 with a bit of overlap due to some machines doing dual use, band saw is for both metal and wood so it is on the wood side but in the center so easily accessible for the metal working.

Your main tool in the wood shop is the table/cabinet saw so having that close to the center is how most people set it up, make sure to consider infeed and outfeed.

I positioned mine so that I have 10 feet on the infeed and about 14 feet on the out feed, this does cross over my work/assembly table on the out feed side but it works for me, the 8 inch jointer is at the end of the side wing of the table saw to make work flow, router table is tucked between the saw and jointer.

The plainer is on a rolling cart that fits under the bench and since it is not used often this works well for me.

Along one wall I have a work bench with the mitre saw built in, the bench serves as in feed and out feed for the saw.

The 7'x4' assembly table is on wheels so it can be moved to make room if needed. I love the size but it is taking up to much space and will be getting replaced with a smaller bench.

If you are putting the wood shop on a 2nd floor I would consider putting the dust collector on the main level and bringing the ducts up from below. Mine is in a lean to shed on the outside of the building and I use a remote control to turn it on and off.

You also need to consider materials storage, in wood working you will find that you will have the desire to save off cuts to use for all kinds of stuff and these need to be out of the way but accessible.

I have vertical storage for 4x8 sheet goods and horizontal storage for longer dimensional lumber.

Everything takes up space, one way to set up your shop is to go to Grizzly.com and use their layout tool, will give you a good idea on layout and work flow.

 

[Cyberbear]

My 30 x 80 shop is divided into a separate bay for metal and woodworking. At the wood shop end is my 24 x 15 store room, office and wash room, with man cave/storage above in split level mezzanine area. The wood and metal fabrication is separated by a 12' high wall with two 36" doors for obvious reasons.
Working wood upstairs is fine for small items, but once you build a nice large cabinet, moving same could be a problem, and as you age those stairs get steeper each year.

 

[scootermcrad]

Definitely some things I hadn't thought of here! I forgot about my miter saw, also.

Great stuff! Keep it coming guys! Toss up some pictures too, if you could.

THANKS!

 

[cgrutt]

I'd start with a dust collection system. Layout of your tools should follow the dust collector keeping duct runs as short and straight as possible. Good idea to keep bench tops and work surfaces (e.g., table saw top) to standard height and tall equipment along perimeter as much as possible. Put in more outlets than you think you'll ever need as they always seem to be in short supply, LOL.

I had a nice Homeowner shop at a vacation house in an approx. 24 X 20 garage but we had to sell house. I built a 12 X 24 "shed" for new shop, but it's on small side. I haven't even put a bench in it yet as my table saw (with side and outfeed tables) consumes most of the space. If wish it was wider than but pretty much built it as large as I could. Just a hobby for me, so no biggie...

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

Im in the process of setting up a wood shop right now, Ive only ever been involved in rough carpentry, but I decided I wanted to build some things out of wood, so I went out and collected all the industrial/commercial hardware to assemble a complete wood shop, but keeping in the hobby scale.

Anyhow, I bought a book, one of many, " Setting up shop " Might consider picking this up, along with the input you get here. I also bought two books on dust collection system setup.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588385/?tag=atomicindus08-20

There are also a **** load of images, on google, of shop set ups for some neat ideas.

 

[scootermcrad]

I'd start with a dust collection system. Layout of your tools should follow the dust collector keeping duct runs as short and straight as possible. Good idea to keep bench tops and work surfaces (e.g., table saw top) to standard height and tall equipment along perimeter as much as possible. Put in more outlets than you think you'll ever need as they always seem to be in short supply, LOL.

I had a nice Homeowner shop at a vacation house in an approx. 24 X 20 garage but we had to sell house. I built a 12 X 24 "shed" for new shop, but it's on small side. I haven't even put a bench in it yet as my table saw (with side and outfeed tables) consumes most of the space. If wish it was wider than but pretty much built it as large as I could. Just a hobby for me, so no biggie...

Nice clean setup! How do you like the dust collector? What should I consider for dust collection system as far as sizing and what not?

I will definitely need a "more professional" table saw at some point. How do you like the Powermatic?

Im in the process of setting up a wood shop right now, Ive only ever been involved in rough carpentry, but I decided I wanted to build some things out of wood, so I went out and collected all the industrial/commercial hardware to assemble a complete wood shop, but keeping in the hobby scale.

Anyhow, I bought a book, one of many, " Setting up shop " Might consider picking this up, along with the input you get here. I also bought two books on dust collection system setup.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588385/?tag=atomicindus08-20

There are also a **** load of images, on google, of shop set ups for some neat ideas.

Awesome! I appreciate the suggestion! Done and done! Thank you Amazon prime! Looks like a BUNCH or great books popping up along with it.

Any recommendations for tools (new or used) would be great as well. I'm complete open to buying out someone's collection of tools that they've decided they won't need. Seems professional and semi-professional tools come up at auctions and on Craigslist on a regular basis. Usually in great condition. I will probably buy the jointer and any other heavy duty equipment used to get on my feet.

I have a feeling my focus will be on doors and cabinetry, so the upstairs shop is just going to be a no-go for material handling, I think.

 

[kylefitz]

Think about work flow. Hauling lumber to the Other side of the shop is a waste when you could store it right by the door. The next step is how you prepare your raw stock. Rough cut to length and width. Joint one face and one edge. Rip to width and the plane to final thickness. All those machines should be next to your lumber storage.

Router table, hand sanding, joint cutting machines ect can all be located down stream.

Lots of great info on the net. I like this site: http://www.artofwoodshopdesign.com

 

[kylefitz]

More info the you could ever need on this website from a man that is way smarter then I am! http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

 

[scootermcrad]

Think about work flow. Hauling lumber to the Other side of the shop is a waste when you could store it right by the door. The next step is how you prepare your raw stock. Rough cut to length and width. Joint one face and one edge. Rip to width and the plane to final thickness. All those machines should be next to your lumber storage.

Router table, hand sanding, joint cutting machines ect can all be located down stream.

Lots of great info on the net. I like this site: http://www.artofwoodshopdesign.com

All good thoughts! Thanks! I bookmarked that website also.

 

[scootermcrad]

Material storage is definitely something I'm concerned about. Between metal tubing and sheet metal I will have to come up with an appropriate way to store quality lumber and plywood sheets. Something I've always struggled with is SCRAPS! I currently use a roll around wood crate for metal scraps and I use buckets and tubs for wood scraps. Organization is important to me.

I would love to see some good examples of scrap organization!

More info the you could ever need on this website from a man that is way smarter then I am! http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

Great! Thank you!

 

[Git]

I get it - people like 'old iron', but it is 2016 and things have changed over the years

A 28" band saw sounds cool - but how about something a little more modern with ceramic blade guides that you can just wheel out when you need to use it? How do you even find decent blades for that thing short of having to weld up your own?

Handheld jigsaw like the Festool or Bosch have come a long way and make really decent cuts

Breaking down sheet goods. Traditionally you make some huge infeed/outfeed tables for your table saw. Then you muscle a sheet of plywood (or whatever) up on top and try to push it though A decent track saw and a cutting table takes all the work out of it and is probably more accurate most of the time.

Just something to think about...

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

Any recommendations for tools (new or used) would be great as well.

I think you would be barking up the right tree, if you can find someone's shop to buy.

I built mine, basically out of two different guys shop, one is a retirement, the other a divorce.

Half of it like new, the other half used all of it quality.

Incra, Kreg, Porter cable, Delta and other jigs.

Delta 10" Cabinet Table saw (Id recommend a " Uni-Saw " ), Delta Joiner, Delta Planer, Delta Shaper all 240v single phase

A Vega lathe, Jet Band saw and second planer (smaller)

Delta belt/disc sander, Delta orbital sander, Delta Mortiser,

Grizzly Radial drill press

A **** load of older porter cable, senco, bostitch, Bosch, hand power tools.

Clamps galore ( pipe, Jorgensen, spring ), bought a couple wood working benches. Wood vises, I lost track of everything I bought.

Then I have all my saws from years of construction work, Radial Arm, Compound sliders, hand saws and the like. Power sanders,...drills, hand held power planes, routers. belt sanders, I cant keep track. Routers, I have 3 other contractor table saws, chop saws,..

Thats a nut shell, of what Ive picked up, so far.

Gonna keep an eye out for a portable mill.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

Material storage is definitely something I'm concerned about.

I bought 3 sections of industrial cantilever rack. Its about 9' tall, each section might be 10' wide, arms extend out about 3.5'. I also bought a bunch of pre-assembled trim rack at auction.

 

[CTyankee]

I get it - people like 'old iron', but it is 2016 and things have changed over the years

A 28" band saw sounds cool - but how about something a little more modern with ceramic blade guides that you can just wheel out when you need to use it? How do you even find decent blades for that thing short of having to weld up your own?

Handheld jigsaw like the Festool or Bosch have come a long way and make really decent cuts

Breaking down sheet goods. Traditionally you make some huge infeed/outfeed tables for your table saw. Then you muscle a sheet of plywood (or whatever) up on top and try to push it though A decent track saw and a cutting table takes all the work out of it and is probably more accurate most of the time.

Just something to think about...

Good advice. Quoted for emphasis.

 

[kylefitz]

I'm actually planning on downsizing my outfeed table and side table to increase my working room. It's always been a pain to haul full sheets down the stairs into the shop. I'm just going to break them down in the garage or drive way on a set of sawhorses with a cordless circular saw. Work smarter not harder.

 

[Nowater]

Give a good look to the Dewalt 735 planer. A used 3 hp single phase Delta Unisaw is another strong suggestion, mine is almost 40 years old. An eight inch jointer if you can afford it. Everything on wheels of some sort.

Look at the Nova dvr lathe if you want to do some turning. Around my parts a 14" Rikon bandsaw is respected.

My assembly bench doubles as the Unisaw outfeed table.

Fit good vises to your workbenches.

Avoid 4 " dust collection hoses as they provide too much friction to the air flow.

Give us more details of what type of woodworking interests you for further suggestions.

 

[Git]

I'm actually planning on downsizing my outfeed table and side table to increase my working room. It's always been a pain to haul full sheets down the stairs into the shop. I'm just going to break them down in the garage or drive way on a set of sawhorses with a cordless circular saw. Work smarter not harder.

My wife never regretted my buying my Track Saw

BECAUSE - she would have to help my when I tried ripping a 4 x 8 sheet of ply!

Now, I unload the sheet from my truck right onto my portable cutting table that I set up in my driveway and cut away

 

[matt_i]

Besides a centralized vacuum chip collection, the biggest improvement I made was to hang one of those "air filtration" boxes (likely a better technical term ) that basically just moves air thru it to capture airborne dust. Even with a 2hp vac there is still a stream of dust from everything from a mitersaw to a tablesaw that couldn't be captured if you had a 5hp collector. My woodshop is sadly under utilized, jammed in a basement corner, but hope to get it setup to functionality again one day soon

 

[scootermcrad]

More info the you could ever need on this website from a man that is way smarter then I am! http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

I get it - people like 'old iron', but it is 2016 and things have changed over the years

A 28" band saw sounds cool - but how about something a little more modern with ceramic blade guides that you can just wheel out when you need to use it? How do you even find decent blades for that thing short of having to weld up your own?

Handheld jigsaw like the Festool or Bosch have come a long way and make really decent cuts

Breaking down sheet goods. Traditionally you make some huge infeed/outfeed tables for your table saw. Then you muscle a sheet of plywood (or whatever) up on top and try to push it though A decent track saw and a cutting table takes all the work out of it and is probably more accurate most of the time.

Just something to think about...

Thanks for the tool tips.

As for the band saw, it's actually been converted for metal cutting and is a beautiful piece of equipment. Only time I would ever convert it back for wood use, would be in the event I was cutting some large timber rough cutting, or something similar. It's not a machine for fine detail and wouldn't be considered for such. Blades are readily available in many types and pitch, but do have to be welded similar to a DoAll saw. I do have to consider it's footprint because of its size as well as my metal lathe and mill and metal shaping tools. Those will all be separated from the woodworking area the best I can. The large hulk of a bandsaw will be on wheels anyway.

 

[scootermcrad]

I think you would be barking up the right tree, if you can find someone's shop to buy.

I built mine, basically out of two different guys shop, one is a retirement, the other a divorce.

Half of it like new, the other half used all of it quality.

Incra, Kreg, Porter cable, Delta and other jigs.

Delta 10" Cabinet Table saw (Id recommend a " Uni-Saw " ), Delta Joiner, Delta Planer, Delta Shaper all 240v single phase

A Vega lathe, Jet Band saw and second planer (smaller)

Delta belt/disc sander, Delta orbital sander, Delta Mortiser,

Grizzly Radial drill press

A **** load of older porter cable, senco, bostitch, Bosch, hand power tools.

Clamps galore ( pipe, Jorgensen, spring ), bought a couple wood working benches. Wood vises, I lost track of everything I bought.

Then I have all my saws from years of construction work, Radial Arm, Compound sliders, hand saws and the like. Power sanders,...drills, hand held power planes, routers. belt sanders, I cant keep track. Routers, I have 3 other contractor table saws, chop saws,..

Thats a nut shell, of what Ive picked up, so far.

Gonna keep an eye out for a portable mill.

Great info! Thank you! Good stuff

 

[scootermcrad]

Give a good look to the Dewalt 735 planer. A used 3 hp single phase Delta Unisaw is another strong suggestion, mine is almost 40 years old. An eight inch jointer if you can afford it. Everything on wheels of some sort.

Look at the Nova dvr lathe if you want to do some turning. Around my parts a 14" Rikon bandsaw is respected.

My assembly bench doubles as the Unisaw outfeed table.

Fit good vises to your workbenches.

Avoid 4 " dust collection hoses as they provide too much friction to the air flow.

Give us more details of what type of woodworking interests you for further suggestions.

I was actually looking at that DeWalt planer! Looks like it would do everything I would need it for and for how often I would need it. I've ALSO been planning on that very same 14" bandsaw. That should have the capacity for about anything I need to do... I think. Also been looking at the Grizzly.

For the type of wood working, I'm definitely interested in various types doors, windows, cabinetry and built-ins, and probably anything focusing on architectural carpentry.

Great tips! Thanks!

 

[scootermcrad]

Besides a centralized vacuum chip collection, the biggest improvement I made was to hang one of those "air filtration" boxes (likely a better technical term ) that basically just moves air thru it to capture airborne dust. Even with a 2hp vac there is still a stream of dust from everything from a mitersaw to a tablesaw that couldn't be captured if you had a 5hp collector. My woodshop is sadly under utilized, jammed in a basement corner, but hope to get it setup to functionality again one day soon

That's a good thought, actually! Especially being that the space will be shared with my wife and her office upstairs. She will be super insulated and isolated, but that would be a great addition as well. That's WAY long term though.

 

[MFolks]

www.rockler.com is where I've bought supplies for my garage shop, and here's some websites for ideas:
http://www.shopnotes.com/
http://www.woodsmith.com/

 

[scootermcrad]

www.rockler.com is where I've bought supplies for my garage shop, and here's some websites for ideas:
http://www.shopnotes.com/
http://www.woodsmith.com/

GREAT! Thanks! I'll check those out.

 

[My Old Tools]

I get it - people like 'old iron', but it is 2016 and things have changed over the years

A 28" band saw sounds cool - but how about something a little more modern with ceramic blade guides that you can just wheel out when you need to use it? How do you even find decent blades for that thing short of having to weld up your own?

Handheld jigsaw like the Festool or Bosch have come a long way and make really decent cuts

Breaking down sheet goods. Traditionally you make some huge infeed/outfeed tables for your table saw. Then you muscle a sheet of plywood (or whatever) up on top and try to push it though A decent track saw and a cutting table takes all the work out of it and is probably more accurate most of the time.

Just something to think about...

Changed for the worse when comparing cast iron tools to todays tin wonders. Try a bandsaw that is cast iron, weighs 2000#, and compare it to a sheet metal saw of the same size. Then try to resaw to capacity and see which one you want to use.

 

[cgrutt]

Nice clean setup! How do you like the dust collector? What should I consider for dust collection system as far as sizing and what not?

I will definitely need a "more professional" table saw at some point. How do you like the Powermatic?

Thanks, dust collector does a decent job but I'm by no means a professional. Probably better ones available. I think it's a 2 or possibly 3 HP Baldor motor. Pretty damn heavy, LOL... I have a long section of hose (5" I think) that I run to other machines as needed such as band saw, joiner and bench top planer. Has always kept up with whatever I've fed it.

Powermatic is a nice saw. It's an older model 66. I believe it is also 3HP Baldor motor. Single phase. Always has done a decent job for me. I use Forrest blades, which I recommend no matter what saw you're using. Believe the Powermatic and Delta Unisaws are very similar. I bought mine about 15 years ago for about $2K. I think the same saw (which has a new model number) runs about $3K today.

One thing I had in my old shop was a bench that had a Bosch 10" sliding compound saw set level with the bench top. Had about 3' of bench to right of saw and about 10' of bench to the left of it. Built a custom "hood" for lack of better word that set behind blade and was hooked up to dust collector. There was also a smaller hose hooked to the saw guard. It was a great set up that I used for all sorts of stuff.

 

[scootermcrad]

My bandsaw is actually very similar to this one, but not quite as pretty and has a modern motor and gear reduction box (for the metal cutting). I think this one is a 30 or 32 inch. So mine is just slightly smaller, but just as obtrusive. So it is considered in my layout.

 

[cgrutt]

Changed for the worse when comparing cast iron tools to todays tin wonders. Try a bandsaw that is cast iron, weighs 2000#, and compare it to a sheet metal saw of the same size. Then try to resaw to capacity and see which one you want to use.

While I agree somewhat with the work smarter mentality using some of the newer technology, I couldn't agree more with you. I have an "newer" 18" Laguna that has an Italian frame and cast iron top (can see a little of it in pic I posted above). It's pretty heavy (not 2,000 lbs heavy though, LOL) and does a terrific job. It's a pleasure to use and hands down my favorite tool...

 

[cgrutt]

My bandsaw is actually very similar to this one, but not quite as pretty and has a modern motor and gear reduction box (for the metal cutting). I think this one is a 30 or 32 inch. So mine is just slightly smaller, but just as obtrusive. So it is considered in my layout.

That's awesome!!!

 

[scootermcrad]

Thanks, dust collector does a decent job but I'm by no means a professional. Probably better ones available. I think it's a 2 or possibly 3 HP Baldor motor. Pretty damn heavy, LOL... I have a long section of hose (5" I think) that I run to other machines as needed such as band saw, joiner and bench top planer. Has always kept up with whatever I've fed it.

Powermatic is a nice saw. It's an older model 66. I believe it is also 3HP Baldor motor. Single phase. Always has done a decent job for me. I use Forrest blades, which I recommend no matter what saw you're using. Believe the Powermatic and Delta Unisaws are very similar. I bought mine about 15 years ago for about $2K. I think the same saw (which has a new model number) runs about $3K today.

One thing I had in my old shop was a bench that had a Bosch 10" sliding compound saw set level with the bench top. Had about 3' of bench to right of saw and about 10' of bench to the left of it. Built a custom "hood" for lack of better word that set behind blade and was hooked up to dust collector. There was also a smaller hose hooked to the saw guard. It was a great set up that I used for all sorts of stuff.

There is both a Powermatic and Delta Unisaw for sale locally for very reasonable and in good shape. I'm going to keep an eye on them. I have to wait until the shop addition is done to fit anything else though.

How are the Powermatic jointers? I see those come up for sale often as well and usually for good prices. Was wondering about cutters for them though.

 

[cgrutt]

Sorry, haven't used one have no idea. Not that crazy about my Jet but it's probably not set up correctly. I believe the newer joiners use helical cutters which supposedly give better results than straight blades.

 

[Kaizen]

I looked at the helical cutters.....stupid expensive. I wouldn't do that unless I was selling high end furniture or had a high production shop.

 

[rayra]

I use a large rolling table as a work surface for many trades and hobbies. It's also got my router table flush mounted in it and it's the same height as my table saw deck, so it works as a feed support.
The rolling table also lets me wheel the messier sanding jobs and stinking stain and varnish work outside.
My 2-car suburban attached garage has to serve quadruple duty. I'm able to roll that table and other toolstands off to the side in a compact pile, when I'm doing other things. Then re-expand my stuff when I'm in woodworking mode.

I'm currently embarked in a sort of slider-puzzle re-organization of the whole space, so I can augment and enlarge the woodworking supports. The whole side wall adjacent to the woodworkign area is 2x4 framed shelves, floor to ceiling, wall to wall. I have some 1" dowels thru the face rails of those shelves, that slide in and out as needed to serve as a lumber rack. I'll be remodeling the counter-high shelf to project outward about a foot and rebuilding a portion of that shelf to nestle in my miter (and soon to be sliding compound) saw and form a long shelf / cutting station.

And my plans include a curtain wall on a track a la an ER treatment area, so I can isolate my sawdust mess from the rest of the garage..

Look up the YouTube channels of Jay Bates and Ron Paulk, both are flush with innovative and portable / space-saving designs for increasing efficiency and tailoring a workspace.


eta - here's some of my rudimentary woodworking, you can see the table setup in many of the shots
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rayra/sets/72157647976429985/

 

[scootermcrad]

Router table question! I have just a regular old "off the shelf" type Bosch miter table. Machined top, etc. Pretty nice and flatness is consistent. I've been thinking that at some point I will need a bigger surface area. Is it worth it just to build the Bosch into a bench, or just dump the whole router table and build my own into a bench? I like the idea that I can put it on a roll around cupboard and put it away easy.

I use a large rolling table as a work surface for many trades and hobbies. It's also got my router table flush mounted in it and it's the same height as my table saw deck, so it works as a feed support.
The rolling table also lets me wheel the messier sanding jobs and stinking stain and varnish work outside.
My 2-car suburban attached garage has to serve quadruple duty. I'm able to roll that table and other toolstands off to the side in a compact pile, when I'm doing other things. Then re-expand my stuff when I'm in woodworking mode.

I'm currently embarked in a sort of slider-puzzle re-organization of the whole space, so I can augment and enlarge the woodworking supports. The whole side wall adjacent to the woodworkign area is 2x4 framed shelves, floor to ceiling, wall to wall. I have some 1" dowels thru the face rails of those shelves, that slide in and out as needed to serve as a lumber rack. I'll be remodeling the counter-high shelf to project outward about a foot and rebuilding a portion of that shelf to nestle in my miter (and soon to be sliding compound) saw and form a long shelf / cutting station.

And my plans include a curtain wall on a track a la an ER treatment area, so I can isolate my sawdust mess from the rest of the garage..

Look up the YouTube channels of Jay Bates and Ron Paulk, both are flush with innovative and portable / space-saving designs for increasing efficiency and tailoring a workspace.


eta - here's some of my rudimentary woodworking, you can see the table setup in many of the shots
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rayra/sets/72157647976429985/

I've been thinking about the "sliding wall"/curtain thing too. I think that's the answer. Maybe even do a hidden track and a place for it to slide into the wall so it's out of the way and hidden when not in use.

 

[My Old Tools]

My bandsaw is actually very similar to this one, but not quite as pretty and has a modern motor and gear reduction box (for the metal cutting). I think this one is a 30 or 32 inch. So mine is just slightly smaller, but just as obtrusive. So it is considered in my layout.

You can shrink that footprint some by mounting the motor different. One of my 32" saws is a 1905 Crescent. Someone before me fabricated a simple angle iron motor mount that hung the motor off the back of the frame.

 

[My Old Tools]

The Powermatic 60 8" jointer has been the industry standard for small shops for many years. You can put a helical head in it if you want, but you can get much of the benefit by skew cutting on a straight head. This is another place where mass counts however. If you work 2" and greater lumber, it can out weigh an 8" sheet metal base jointer. A cast iron like an older Crescent or Oliver, or today's Northfield 12" or 16" can handle just about anything you want to throw up on it. I really love my 16" Northfield, but I have an 8" PM60 tucked away in case I ever need to downsize.

 

[homebuilt burner]

I have a bench along one wall with my miter saw and routers and kreg jig all built into it. Keep in mind they can overlap as you are only using one at a time. All of my benches are the same height as my table saw (an old craftsmen that I installed a larger motor and out feed table to) so there is very little lifting. When building I put a dryer outlet vent in and run my shop vac outlet outside, it really cuts down on the noise and dust.

 

[scootermcrad]

You can shrink that footprint some by mounting the motor different. One of my 32" saws is a 1905 Crescent. Someone before me fabricated a simple angle iron motor mount that hung the motor off the back of the frame.

Yep! The way mine is setup, it has a right-angle gear box for the speed reduction. Much tighter package and when I redo it, it will be even tighter.

The Powermatic 60 8" jointer has been the industry standard for small shops for many years. You can put a helical head in it if you want, but you can get much of the benefit by skew cutting on a straight head. This is another place where mass counts however. If you work 2" and greater lumber, it can out weigh an 8" sheet metal base jointer. A cast iron like an older Crescent or Oliver, or today's Northfield 12" or 16" can handle just about anything you want to throw up on it. I really love my 16" Northfield, but I have an 8" PM60 tucked away in case I ever need to downsize

How old is TOO old when looking at these? I've run across some Oliver machines and most are 60's, I think?? I'm assuming the major thing with these is what shape the motor, drive line, and blades are in, as well as any evidence of being dropped, or the likes. I'm definitely not afraid of heavy, since everything will be on wheels.

 

[scootermcrad]

I have a bench along one wall with my miter saw and routers and kreg jig all built into it. Keep in mind they can overlap as you are only using one at a time. All of my benches are the same height as my table saw (an old craftsmen that I installed a larger motor and out feed table to) so there is very little lifting. When building I put a dryer outlet vent in and run my shop vac outlet outside, it really cuts down on the noise and dust.

Thanks for the tip!