bshusted
Well-known member
I made mine with cheapo HD plywood to the dimensions of the IKEA BESTA cabinets. This way I could pick up the doors at IKEA and paint the cabinets. Here are a couple of pics before the cabinets got painted.
Show Me Homebuilt Storage Cabinets
- Thread starter sledneck32!
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buening
Well-known member
Rustoleum Enamel from a quart can, sprayed via HVLP gun. Charcoal Gray I believe was the color. Its the darker of the two grays they offer. Very easy to wipe down. Don't really expose them to chemicals outside of a cleaner on a rag, but am sure it won't handle brake fluid or carb/brake cleaner exposure.
Thanks for the compliments. They are good 10'ers, I really needed to color sand and buff but for a garage they look good enough. The top, bottom, sides, and shelves are 3/4" oak plywood. The back is 1/2" plywood, and the doors are 3/4" MDF. Glued and screwed together for a tight fit. Shelves have 1"x1"x1/4" angle iron screwed to the fronts for added stiffness, since they are 4' spans on the large cabinet.
Tubing for grinder and vice work great, thanks! I still need to make one for my buffer yet. The only downside is the grinder and buffer sling **** on my bench and cabinet. I need to create a dust shield to catch most of it.
greasyfingers01
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2015
- Messages
- 143
I was thinking more of accidental drips and residue. I'd hate to get some atf or something on it, wipe it off and have the paint come up with it. Is there a particular reason you went with mdf for the doors? Btw, they look sharp!
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Mines gonna be like Mr. Robotos but from 6' off the ground up to the 10' ceiling along the full length of the head wall with cubby holes for the stereo and heater.
Bunk
Well-known member
First of all,+1 on your great looking cabinets buening.
@greasyfingers01, not to speak for buening, but MDF is a better choice for cabinet doors than plywood as its more dimensionally stable and will stay dead flat. Large unsupported panels of plywood can warp over time.
buening
Well-known member
Exactly. Plywood, when its edges aren't supported or braced, will warp over time. MDF will not, however you want to make darn sure you get MDF fully painted/sealed otherwise it will swell like a sponge. One of the edge corners of the upper cabinet didn't get fully sealed with paint, and it looked like it had enormous growths (like a mushroom).
Also, if you go with the frameless hinges like I used make sure you use 3/4" doors. I started out with 1/2" trying to save one weight but the depth of the forstner bit pocket for the hinges ended up being somewhere around 1/2"....so I had a lot of 1/2" doors I ended up not being able to use
Thankfully that was before paint.
I've had grease, oil, and others splattered on it before and it just wipes up (thanks to the gloss finish). Anything that will eat enamel like brake fluid, will cause issues. It also scratches pretty easily, just a heads up. I used lots of primer first and a few topcoats of the dark gray. I also used a hardener from Valspar, hoping it wouldn't scratch easy. Since it is plywood and MDF, the substrate is pretty soft and therefore scratches/dents easier than say sheet metal.
Also, if you go with the frameless hinges like I used make sure you use 3/4" doors. I started out with 1/2" trying to save one weight but the depth of the forstner bit pocket for the hinges ended up being somewhere around 1/2"....so I had a lot of 1/2" doors I ended up not being able to use
Thankfully that was before paint.I've had grease, oil, and others splattered on it before and it just wipes up (thanks to the gloss finish). Anything that will eat enamel like brake fluid, will cause issues. It also scratches pretty easily, just a heads up. I used lots of primer first and a few topcoats of the dark gray. I also used a hardener from Valspar, hoping it wouldn't scratch easy. Since it is plywood and MDF, the substrate is pretty soft and therefore scratches/dents easier than say sheet metal.
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rayra
Well-known member
ah that's a fine idea!
I love this thread.
Cabinets don't seem overly difficult to build even for a beginner like me.
Not saying they are easy but I think I could accomplish some and get some tools in the process. AND save some money. Plus getting exactly what I want
Cabinets don't seem overly difficult to build even for a beginner like me.
Not saying they are easy but I think I could accomplish some and get some tools in the process. AND save some money. Plus getting exactly what I want
Slednut
Well-known member
I've posted these pictures before on other threads. I like just building boxes and using melamine for the face frames and doors. I don't like painting cabinets, but I do paint the sawed edge of the melamine. I have used the iron on edge tape but it's not rugged enough for a garage cabinets.
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I have two sets. The first is three units of 30"w, 18"d, about 7' tall. 3/4" plywood with Dado grooves for the shelves. Top bottom and middle shelves are screwed in place, the rest are adjustable. One cabinet has full width shelves, one is split in half, on is about 40/60. I have doors that will get hung one of these days. Those were a practice run before we made a while room full of shelves in the house.
The second set uses 2x4 base and verticals with 2x2 horizontal beams and 3/4" ply shelves. I have plans to add sliding doors to the front of this one, but at the time I just needed to put stuff back inside. These are 30" deep to hold totes and larger stuff (like the miter saw, blast cab, ice chest, corvette door...what?!) that won't go in the 18" units.
The second set uses 2x4 base and verticals with 2x2 horizontal beams and 3/4" ply shelves. I have plans to add sliding doors to the front of this one, but at the time I just needed to put stuff back inside. These are 30" deep to hold totes and larger stuff (like the miter saw, blast cab, ice chest, corvette door...what?!) that won't go in the 18" units.
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Badboybuggy
Member
I just built this shop it really took all the money I had. So work has plenty of pallets that they pay to have hauled away any chance I get I bring them home.
Most if not all the lumber used on the cabinets is free. I took pallets apart to make the cabinets. I went to the Restore in town and picked up hinges for $.50 each.
Not real pretty but at least they are functional..
Most if not all the lumber used on the cabinets is free. I took pallets apart to make the cabinets. I went to the Restore in town and picked up hinges for $.50 each.
Not real pretty but at least they are functional..
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jimgood
Well-known member
I like that. Makes me wish sometimes I had not discarded all the pallets that were in my barn when I first moved here.
View attachment 537508
Got three walls of floor to ceiling cabinets...
Got three walls of floor to ceiling cabinets...
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Great job. They look pretty to me.
NedNorton
Well-known member
Great DIY cabinet examples above.
Here are mine. Plywood doors and boxes w/ pine face frames and Blum soft close hinges. Simple shelf standards on the inside and outdoor carpet on the shelves to keep things from scratching. They are painted inside and out. It takes more time but well worth it.
Cheers,
Chris
Here are mine. Plywood doors and boxes w/ pine face frames and Blum soft close hinges. Simple shelf standards on the inside and outdoor carpet on the shelves to keep things from scratching. They are painted inside and out. It takes more time but well worth it.
Cheers,
Chris
Quick question for buening...I really love the finish on your cabinet and just to make sure I understand the step you have done....you have 1st prime the mdf, then spray it with Rostoleum enamel with HVLP gun then you add the Valspar hardener.....did you mix the hardener with the last coat of the Rostoleum or only spray it after?
Thanks
Double J
Well-known member
cagullett1
Well-known member
For the guys painting the inside of the cabinets, are you painting prior to final assembly in order to get even coverage?
Bunk
Well-known member
great thanks!! is it the hardener that give the glossy shine? or a clear coat have to be apply?
Crusarius
Well-known member
This is a little less garage related but really happy how it turned out. Unfortunately since it was built in I left it at the old house. Oh well, there is always more...
The dark stained material was an existing built in cabinet that I converted from fixed shelves to pullout DVD storage. I think I had about 700 DVD capacity. One of the sections was double sided since I did not have enough space to do 3 singles.
The dark stained material was an existing built in cabinet that I converted from fixed shelves to pullout DVD storage. I think I had about 700 DVD capacity. One of the sections was double sided since I did not have enough space to do 3 singles.
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hchinaski
Well-known member
I made some simple cabinets out of 3/4" plywood, with 1/2" plywood doors and 1x2 furring strips for the face frames (had to weed through a ton to find some straight ones). I figured out that if I kept the depth to 16", and the width to 32", I could make a whole cabinet out of one sheet of plywood including the shelves.
I put them together with a Kreg jig and screws. The door handles were the same 1x2 furring strips rounded off with a router, I made them long to stiffen the thinner plywood doors (the art deco look was just a bonus).
I put them together with a Kreg jig and screws. The door handles were the same 1x2 furring strips rounded off with a router, I made them long to stiffen the thinner plywood doors (the art deco look was just a bonus).
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cagullett1
Well-known member
Figured I'd bump this since no one answered last time.
buening
Well-known member
I personally painted the inside after assembly, because I glued the joints in conjunction with screws. Glue doesnt stick well to painted surface, so I would have had to tape off the contact area
FIRE UP
Active member
Gentlemen,
I for one, certainly commend all of you who've taken the time, the effort and have the tools and equipment to build all of your cabinets for your Man Caves, work areas, garages etc. I did all that, several times over the years in three different homes. I've built miles of cabinets using plywood, particle board, MDF, and a few hundred Melamine sheets too.
In my younger years, (way back a few decades ago), when I had the strength and the ability to man-handle all those sheets of material, cut them all up, then cut, drill (reverse side pocket holes) and assemble the face frames, then put all of them together and paint what needed to be painted with white glossy lacquer, it was very, very rewarding to see the end finished product.
But, as all of you know, THAT'S A TON OF WORK!! And, I'm not nearly as agile as I used to be so, when we recently moved to a brand new home here in Lake Havasu City AZ, I knew I'd need MORE CABINETS. But, I was not about to do that whole process over again. So, the wife and I cruised on down to Ikea in San Diego and picked up, a whole bunch of kitchen cabinets.
We transported them over to here and, assembled them all. Guys, again, I've done it all and, I wanted something really nice, just like all of yours but, I did not want put out that kind of effort, AGAIN. So, this message is for the few that might not have the tools, talent, effort, etc. to build their own. These Ikea cabinets are by far, some of the best I've ever seen, as far as commercial, end-user assembled, cabinets.
They are all modular. You can set them up in multiple sizes and, organizations, in as many ways, as you like. The company has designed them so that, with minimal effort, in the end, it looks EXACTLY like they're home built, and fit EXACTLY in your spaces. A brief example of the versatility of a lower section, say 36" wide and standard lower cabinet height is, you can set it up as multiple drawers, or, two large drawers or, single, dual, multiple shelves or, even one side is drawers and the other is shelves with a door on that side. It's incredible on the combinations you can create.
I'm only participating in this particular thread so that again, if some of you don't have the tools or ability to construct your own cabinets, this is a viable alternative for not all that much money. I picked a semi-flat white vinyl finish on the doors and drawer fronts. I knew I'd be wiping them off regularly. Ikea offers multiple types and colors of finishes faces for all of their cabinets.
And, we chose a darker, Granite looking counter top. Again, they have multiple colors and styles of countertops to suit anyone's taste. Here's a couple of pictures of how they look, just for those that might be thinking of purchasing some instead of building them.
Again, to those that have shown your ability and talent to create your own, you have done an outstanding job, you should be ultra proud.
Scott
I for one, certainly commend all of you who've taken the time, the effort and have the tools and equipment to build all of your cabinets for your Man Caves, work areas, garages etc. I did all that, several times over the years in three different homes. I've built miles of cabinets using plywood, particle board, MDF, and a few hundred Melamine sheets too.
In my younger years, (way back a few decades ago), when I had the strength and the ability to man-handle all those sheets of material, cut them all up, then cut, drill (reverse side pocket holes) and assemble the face frames, then put all of them together and paint what needed to be painted with white glossy lacquer, it was very, very rewarding to see the end finished product.
But, as all of you know, THAT'S A TON OF WORK!! And, I'm not nearly as agile as I used to be so, when we recently moved to a brand new home here in Lake Havasu City AZ, I knew I'd need MORE CABINETS. But, I was not about to do that whole process over again. So, the wife and I cruised on down to Ikea in San Diego and picked up, a whole bunch of kitchen cabinets.
We transported them over to here and, assembled them all. Guys, again, I've done it all and, I wanted something really nice, just like all of yours but, I did not want put out that kind of effort, AGAIN. So, this message is for the few that might not have the tools, talent, effort, etc. to build their own. These Ikea cabinets are by far, some of the best I've ever seen, as far as commercial, end-user assembled, cabinets.
They are all modular. You can set them up in multiple sizes and, organizations, in as many ways, as you like. The company has designed them so that, with minimal effort, in the end, it looks EXACTLY like they're home built, and fit EXACTLY in your spaces. A brief example of the versatility of a lower section, say 36" wide and standard lower cabinet height is, you can set it up as multiple drawers, or, two large drawers or, single, dual, multiple shelves or, even one side is drawers and the other is shelves with a door on that side. It's incredible on the combinations you can create.
I'm only participating in this particular thread so that again, if some of you don't have the tools or ability to construct your own cabinets, this is a viable alternative for not all that much money. I picked a semi-flat white vinyl finish on the doors and drawer fronts. I knew I'd be wiping them off regularly. Ikea offers multiple types and colors of finishes faces for all of their cabinets.
And, we chose a darker, Granite looking counter top. Again, they have multiple colors and styles of countertops to suit anyone's taste. Here's a couple of pictures of how they look, just for those that might be thinking of purchasing some instead of building them.
Again, to those that have shown your ability and talent to create your own, you have done an outstanding job, you should be ultra proud.
Scott
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bajones238
Well-known member
Pegboard, plywood and 1x2 lumber, plus a lot of strap hinges. I built these 25 years ago. If I'd had the money, I would have used stainless tops instead of galvanized sheet metal.
The "clean" shop for electronics work.
The "dirty" shop for everything else (cleaned up, since we are selling the house).
The old Hallowell metal table for the really nasty stuff (engines, transmissions).
I'll have to start all over again at the new place, and am looking to this board for suggestions. Some great ones so far!
The "clean" shop for electronics work.
The "dirty" shop for everything else (cleaned up, since we are selling the house).
The old Hallowell metal table for the really nasty stuff (engines, transmissions).
I'll have to start all over again at the new place, and am looking to this board for suggestions. Some great ones so far!
eastbaysubaru
Well-known member
Any chance you could take or upload a larger picture of that particular wall? The integration in/around the door track and the small parts bin storage is very unique.
-Brian
buening
Well-known member
Sorry I just noticed this. Yes, prime the MDF/plywood first. I went an extra step and used Varathane wood primer first, then used Rustoleum Gray primer over that (likely overkill). If you want woodgrain to show then go to next step with topcoat, if not then prime again and sand till smooth. Then mix Valspar hardener with Rustoleum (or whatever brand you choose) paint according to the directions on the hardener can, thin accordingly and spray from HVLP gun. I used hardener on both coats (did 2 coats of paint). Hardener obviously makes the paint harder and increases gloss. I got the hardener from my local Farm & Fleet, but am sure its available online if you don't have those kind of stores.