How good (or BAD!) did I do? Saylor-Beall 705

[XterraJohn]

Today I picked up a Saylor-Beall 5hp 80 gallon compressor with a 705 pump off of Craigslist for $550. Of course it was described as being "almost perfect." In reality, I suspect that it may have been dropped at least once. The flywheel and motor pulley are both cracked, although he did turn it on briefly to prove that it runs. The tank shows a certification date of 1998.

Here are pics. Let me know if I was a complete idiot for going ahead with the purchase in spite of the issues.

 

[Richard Cranium]

John, don't sound too bad, But not knowing if it goes up to pressure, or will hold it is kind of hard to answer. Please do replace the flywheel and pulley before you hook this up, You don't want to get hurt or some one else hurt or killed.
Please update your profile to include at least your state, city would be nice. Prices vary by location, so what is a great deal here in Washington state, may not be in Calif.

 

[XterraJohn]

John, don't sound too bad, But not knowing if it goes up to pressure, or will hold it is kind of hard to answer. Please do replace the flywheel and pulley before you hook this up, You don't want to get hurt or some one else hurt or killed.
Please update your profile to include at least your state, city would be nice. Prices vary by location, so what is a great deal here in Washington state, may not be in Calif.

I'm in the DFW, TX area. I went ahead and updated my profile as well. I'm planning on replacing the flywheel for sure, I'm just hoping that I don't also have to replace the crank.

 

[Nathan b]

Turn it on see what happands...and stand back with safety glasses on...lol. ...not kidding...it will probly be fine

 

[CNGsaves]

Is that bolt on flywheel some sort of "reinforcement" or supposed to be there ??

Likely could braze the cracks on flywheel if it's not jerry rigged with bolt. Any Saylor Beall owners on GJ have similar flywheel ?? Is that bolt factory ??

For $550 that's a Lifetime air compressor so you did well OP.

 

[XterraJohn]

Is that bolt on flywheel some sort of "reinforcement" or supposed to be there ??

Likely could braze the cracks on flywheel if it's not jerry rigged with bolt. Any Saylor Beall owners on GJ have similar flywheel ?? Is that bolt factory ??

For $550 that's a Lifetime air compressor so you did well OP.

From what I've seen, the bolt is factory. When I bought it I figured even with the price of a new flywheel it still seemed like a decent deal.

 

[G_P]

The bolt is what squeezes the flywheel bore and keeps it on the crank. Its supposed to be there.

 

[930dreamer]

Did you know the flywheel was damaged before you bought it? If so you might have paid too much, not sure what another flywheel is going for? I see a crankshaft on ebay but no flywheel.

 

[maxpower_hd]

If it were me I would run it like that and see if the flywheel moves at all. The key is holding it from slipping. The pinch point is holding it from sliding on the shaft. It has a guard and if it is positioned such that the pulleys and belts are away from you I don't see it killing anyone. It could make quite the racket if it comes off but if you watch it to see if it moves and it doesn't I would be comfortable with it.

I think it was a good buy for what you got but not a steal. If you need to buy a flywheel that might be a different story.

 

[maxpower_hd]

I don't know about the flywheel but the motor pulley I just bought was like $30 so not a deal breaker by any means. The flywheel is probably more though.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I don't know about the flywheel but the motor pulley I just bought was like $30 so not a deal breaker by any means. The flywheel is probably more though.

If the flywheel is running "true", I would consider just running it, at least for awhile. From the picture, it looks like the piece with the bolt running through it, is holding the the rest of it in place.

I would install the compressor so that you can frequently inspect that crack to see if anything is moving.



Machine repair experts, is this a good candidate for brazing or other cast iron repair procedures ?

 

[XterraJohn]

From what I've been seeing online, the flywheel it around $250.

 

[txvwnut]

Check With Green Valley compressor they're in Keller and keep a bunch of used flywheels in stock so it's possible they could have one on the shelf or can get you one.

 

[Tarnished]

John, You done good, and your going to love that compressor. I have the 735 model vintage 2013, and couldn't be happier. Think I would repair/replace both pulleys, but for the price you paid, even if you have to do new pulley, you should be good. Will be your "lifetime" compressor.
Looks like the flywheel is cracked on both sides of the shaft?? Would think that brazing would work here, since the shaft is keyed, but I'm not a welder.
Let us know how you come out on.

 

[golferguy]

I took my SB to a compressor shop and was told it was a 2200 dollar compressor but the honda engine is about 900 of it so good buy on what others say is the most copied compressor around.

 

[malibu101]

As far as individual parts--
The 5HP single phase motor costs about $400 new.
The tank certainly has value.

I'd say you did alright at this point.
If the pump works, or can be repaired at a reasonable price, I'd say you did fine.

 

[XterraJohn]

Last night I started the disassembly in order to get it off of the trailer without having to rent a pallet jack.





Unfortunately, the combined height of the pallet and the pump meant that I couldn't get it into the garage without tipping it on it's side at which point it seemed to become VERY heavy.



After removing the pump and giving the tank and pump a thorough scrub down with some degreaser and various brushes. This is part way through removing all of the 3rd-party stickers and tape residue.





Apparently this compressor made its way here from Nevada. Perhaps it was mail ordered when new, although that compressor shop no longer appears to be a dealer for Saylor-Beall.



Any guesses what this sticker might have been?



Some others:



There also looks to have been some touchup painting done at one point:

 

[chrispyny]

Where do u see touch up paint? I think it's all original. Awesome score. Thise 5hp motors new off ebay are about $575 new shipped. I know cause i bought one last year.
I suggest you continue taking those stickers off, keeping the SB factory sticker naturally. Then see if you can get a can of factory touch up paint and touch up the rest of it where it's banged up, put it all together and call it a day.
It's what i did when i got my Quincy. A can of paint and elbow grease makes it look brand new.

 

[CNGsaves]

I'd bet the sticker above the big Saylor Beall with the dates and amounts are OIL CHANGES. Thus, bet those are Dates and Run Hours at time of oil change.

Check into brazing the cracks in flywheel, then touch up paint where needed.

Run it long enough to get full operating temperature, then change oil/air filter.

After that, you've got Lifetime of air except for oil changes/air filter maintenance.

 

[Norcal]

If it were mine, I would leave the Nevada dealer tag alone, it's part of the history of the compressor, I bought a late 1970's Speedaire (Grainger) 5 HP 3 phase compressor for $450, a friend got a new Korean built GE TEFC single phase for $280, been a good compressor for me, the S-B should be the same.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Any guesses what this sticker might have been?

I don't want to come across as negative, but the peeled off white sticker with red lettering looks like it said "Exhibit ***" like an inspection failure tag. It's interesting how it looks like it was pointing out where a weld and part of the vessel was impacted by something... it's most likely from an auction.

At the risk of being too safe, I'd have it hydro'd before using it.

Other than that, you did very well. I like S-Bs.


Tommy

 

[Brad J.]

You did good. Those are nice compressors.

Have the flywheel repaired if it runs true. Check the crank, I purchased a used Saylor Beall 4 cylinder that had been tipped over. It bent the crankshaft. It was very visible while it was turned over.

Replace the front pulley as they are cheap. Might be able to ebay a flwheel for the price of repair. I scrapped one last year for one of these.

 

[Steevo]

Flywheel: $250
http://oemaircompressor.com/Saylor-Beall-ReplacementPart-6445.aspx

 

[XterraJohn]

I don't want to come across as negative, but the peeled off white sticker with red lettering looks like it said "Exhibit ***" like an inspection failure tag. It's interesting how it looks like it was pointing out where a weld and part of the vessel was impacted by something...

At the risk of being too safe, I'd have it hydro'd before using it.

Other than that, you did very well. I like S-Bs.


Tommy

I also thought that it said "Exhibit", but I didn't know what context a sticker like that might be used in. I never thought of a failed inspection. That impact mark is on the back right below the pulleys so that, combined with the cracked pulleys, makes me thing the whole thing tipped over at one point.

 

[BCreekDave]

I don't want to come across as negative, but the peeled off white sticker with red lettering looks like it said "Exhibit ***" like an inspection failure tag. It's interesting how it looks like it was pointing out where a weld and part of the vessel was impacted by something...



At the risk of being too safe, I'd have it hydro'd before using it.



Other than that, you did very well. I like S-Bs.





Tommy

I've also seen tags like this from auctions. Some use "Lot", some use "Exhibit". For parts, you may consider calling Eaton compressor for the flywheel. Supposedly their 5hp inline pump is part for part interchangeable with SB. Customer support at Eaton is top notch, even if you didn't buy from them.

If you do call Eaton, the part number is Flywheel007".

Looking at the photo it could very well be a failed inspection. Hard to tell for sure. If the flywheel took that hard of a hit, you may want to do a teardown of the pump and have the crank and pump body magnafluxed. Small cracks don't get smaller, they only grow.

 

[XterraJohn]

Does anyone have any recommendations as to where to get a tank this size hydro tested in the DFW area?

With regards to the pump itself, I'm sure hoping that the flywheel took the brunt of the damage. Looking at the pump and crankshaft, it looks to be in good condition, but I'm hesitant to throw good money after bad and tear into it if I don't have to.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I've also seen tags like this from auctions. Some use "Lot", some use "Exhibit".

I thought I put that in my post. That's why I said I didn't want to sound negative. I edited it twice, so I must have left it out. I've done that few times now. I need glasses... I went back and edited the post.



Tommy

 

[XterraJohn]

I thought I put that in my post. That's why I said I didn't want to sound negative. I edited it twice, so I must have left it out. I've done that few times now. I need glasses... I went back and edited the post.



Tommy

I've been thinking about that, looking at the tank closely, obsessing, thinking some more.

It looks like that sticker also had "Las Vegas" hand written on it. This is consistent with the dealer sticker that was on the front of the tank. Given the lack of corrosion on the scratched up area im hoping that the sticker predates the damage. I don't know how long it's been in Texas, but I was lead to believe that it's been here a while.

 

[Brad J.]

I'd repair the flywheel before I put an Eaton one on it. The three big three cylinder pumps that I had all wobbled with a fine China close enough balance. Huh, maybe that is why it needed a new pump each year when the rods started talking.

I think your overthinking this. Your tank should be fine. I've had a pin hole in one of my tanks for a couple years now. It will soon be replaced, is really rusty, and I don't worry about it. Rusty tanks don't blow up like a bomb. They just get pin holes that get noisier when the holes gets bigger.

Just spin that crank with the flywheel on it to make sure the crank isn't bent before you go to far. Even at that a new crankshaft is still worth putting into it at the price you paid. I doubt it's bent but just check it.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The compressor may have been used as part of a manufacturer or dealer exhibit at the Los Vegas convention center. I send our products to the shows a couple times a year. That could also explain the flywheel being cracked during transport. I hear and have seen that the forklift drivers at the convention centers are not a careful lot in general. I have that compressor in a horizontal model, bought it from work for $500 when we upgraded for volume, and it will run my suction blast cabinet at a constant 85 psi. My son and I used it all afternoon between the two of us, and I kept tabs on the tank gauge while he was blasting for 30 minutes straight.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

It looks like that sticker also had "Las Vegas" hand written on it. This is consistent with the dealer sticker that was on the front of the tank.

The compressor may have been used as part of a manufacturer or dealer exhibit at the Los Vegas convention center. I send our products to the shows a couple times a year. That could also explain the flywheel being cracked during transport. I hear and have seen that the forklift drivers at the convention centers are not a careful lot in general.

I noticed the "Las Vegas" on the Exhibit sticker and the Nevada dealer sticker, too.

OccupantRJ's thoughts ran across my mind when I saw them, too.

Tommy

 

[XterraJohn]

I have an email out to Green Valley Compressor to see if they have a deal on the pulleys, so in the mean time, I decided to tackle cleaning up the motor.





It appears that at some point during its life someone decided that it wasn't completely full of grease and decided to try and correct that situation.





I guess I'm going to be needing a new stationary switch. This compressor may have been run for more than the 40 hours that the seller claimed.

 

[BCreekDave]

Without an hour meter it's very hard to tell. 40 hours is really nothing on a compressor like this. For this vintage maybe 10 times that would be average for average use. When even a garage user steps up to a compressor of this class it is usually for a specific reason such as painting or a blast cabinet, both high air consumers. I just got mine off CL from a guy who used it to restore a Harley and then got transferred out of state. He said about twenty hours, but I figure double that at least. What does your air cleaner look like? At 40 hours it will show some use, but not much.


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[XterraJohn]

Without an hour meter it's very hard to tell. 40 hours is really nothing on a compressor like this. For this vintage maybe 10 times that would be average for average use. When even a garage user steps up to a compressor of this class it is usually for a specific reason such as painting or a blast cabinet, both high air consumers. I just got mine off CL from a guy who used it to restore a Harley and then got transferred out of state. He said about twenty hours, but I figure double that at least. What does your air cleaner look like? At 40 hours it will show some use, but not much.


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Air cleaner was missing when I got it, so no telling on that one.

 

[sdwalter]

Hour meters are fairly cheap. Put one on when you get it up and running. If nothing else, it looks cool. Here is the one I put on mine, it is a honeywell.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1684t23/=11xsv8j

You can find them really cheap on Amazon, but not sure of the quality.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MM0CV0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Just wire in parallel with the motor.

 

[XterraJohn]

I'm still waiting on the new stationary switch and flywheel to come in, so I decided to go ahead and pump up the tank with water to see what would happen. I knew that there wasn't an obvious drain valve on the bottom of the tank, so I had just assumed that the previous owner had put a plug in.

Once again I was wrong. Apparently whatever used to be there was just broken clean off and there is no way that the tank would have held pressure as-is.



Fortunately it didn't seem to be in too tight and came right out with some WD-40, a reverse drill and an extractor.

After sealing everything up and installing a range of fittings I filled the tank with water and put some pressure on it. I let it sit for around half an hour while I worked cleaning more grease from the motor and didn't notice any drop in pressure at all.

 

[OccupantRJ]

What did you use to pressurize the tank?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I'm still waiting on the new stationary switch and flywheel to come in, so I decided to go ahead and pump up the tank with water to see what would happen. I knew that there wasn't an obvious drain valve on the bottom of the tank, so I had just assumed that the previous owner had put a plug in.

Once again I was wrong. Apparently whatever used to be there was just broken clean off and there is no way that the tank would have held pressure as-is.

Fortunately it didn't seem to be in too tight and came right out with some WD-40, a reverse drill and an extractor.

After sealing everything up and installing a range of fittings I filled the tank with water and put some pressure on it. I let it sit for around half an hour while I worked cleaning more grease from the motor and didn't notice any drop in pressure at all.

Woo. I wouldn't have done that in my garage...

Glad everything went safely.

Tommy

 

[Shiftless]

I was under the impression that if you filled the tank with water and only left a small air space to pressurize it would be (mostly) safe.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Nope. There are no compressed gases of any kind used in hydro testing AND the vessel being testd is secured inside another water filled tank. You also were 100 Psig over the MAWP and test pressures of that vessel. Air is compressible, water is not. Leak testing with air at 30-50 Psig is just as effective as testing with water at 150 Psig.


Tommy