Ran through this thread start to bottom over the last few days: really nicely thought-out build, with great documentation and execution!
Not sure if I missed it, but you might consider emergency lighting for the tornado pit, since sitting out a tornado warning would be such a likely time to lose power. You can find some pretty decent LED/battery boxes pretty cheaply these days.
Will be following the rest... Can't wait 'till you start filling this place in!







The final drive for the driveway.
Scott, your accent lighting really compliments the building, well done.
Regards




One thing I didn't realize until today was that the hoist is oriented parallel to the beam. I was planning on the hoist being perpendicular to the beam to allow more clearance for anything passing through the "Drive Through Bay". I don't think the hoist's can be orientation can be changed but I'm going to look into it.
Scott
I like the hoist! [emoji106]
If memory serves (and it often doesn't), the hook is basically in a t-slot, with the base of the hook being an upside-down "T" (one piece). You may be able to order a hook with a perpendicular orientation, but you can't turn what you have. Not rocket science though, I'm sure you can figure something out!
You would loose some height but you could put a clevis or similar between the hook on the hoist and the beam dolly.
JB
looking good. for the hoist, you can also get a trolley that can be hooked 90 degrees from what you have. That may end up being cheaper if the hook on that particular hoist cant be rotated. I would see how it goes as it is, Im betting you wont even notice the half foot on either side. I would also get some stops for your beam, when you lift heavy the trolley will tend to jerk sideways with the load and could pop through your wall.
heres a smaller one but the principle is the same, all of the powered hoists I have used in the past hooked on a cross shaft like this.


Is that a 1" NG line coming from the house to the garage or 1.25"? Just curious as to what the btu requirements were for the tankless and the length of run from the house to unit. Did they also run a tracer as I don't see one in the picture.
i bet everyone will be happy to clean out the basement! even the cat. lol
jim
Crash&Burn,
I don't know what the line size is.
When you write "tracer", I am assuming you are referring to some sort of way to "find" the line with a locater. There was no tracer but I did put little pieces of rebar, left over from the foundation pour, about every 30 feet in the trench to help locate the line with a metal detector should that be necessary in the future.
Best regards,
Scott
Yes, a tracer wire was always required when I did underground in your area but that was some years ago. Generally, we laid the pipe and then either used a spacer or backfilled several inches before laying the tracer. It can then be located with a wire tracer on un-energized wires for locating purposes. Just makes things easier but you know the general location and have documented things well for future reference.
As for the gas line size, I am just afraid they undersized it. For reference, I pulled up the specs for your unit, the Rinnai RL75i and at max volume uses 180,000 btu (10,300 minimum). At that size pipe, 1" can only provide that volume at just under a 50' run not accounting for fittings. Now 1.25" can handle that volume at 200' not accounting for fittings. After following this thread for so long, I get the idea that you may well be over those figures when factoring distance from meter to appliance and factoring in fittings. While the tables I reference err a bit on the conservative size, they are generally proven to be pretty darn accurate over the past 15 years. That said, I looked back at just can't zoom in close enough to accurately tell the size of the line installed.
The only reason I mention this is two fold. One because most meters are normally in the 225-300 cfh range meaning 230,000-310,00 btu assuming a .5 wc drop. So unless your meter is quite a bit larger you could already be running into trouble as typically we size them for 75% of your max requirements. Second, while the tankless can modulate the flame front, it may never be able to handle a full load or worse case scenario the meter simply can't keep up with all the appliances. As a result you can have increased CO emissions as well as condensation in the flues as well as poor performance that may or may not shorten the life span of the appliances.
I ran residential for years, almost all commercial now, and very very few installer ever used a chart. It was mainly a rule of thumb type of installation and the inspectors rarely caught it. Not until they noticed a delayed ignition or poor performance did I receive a call and have to be the bearer of bad news.
If they've switched over to a high pressure system with regulators then you can forget everything I've said. I don't want to come off as an alarmist, I just appreciate the huge amount of work and money it takes to create such an awesome addition and want to make sure it was done correctly for you.
Best wishes,
Josh
A tracer is usually yellow or red tape laid on top of the line before it is buried. So anyone digging pulls up the tape first and knows they are close to doing a very bad thing.
I was looking at my exposed poured wall that is used for the staircase into my basement last night and contemplating what im going to do with them. Have you had any thought as to how you plan to finish your loading dock walls. In the past on bare block walls I've just used PrepRite block filler from Sherwin Williams. It does a very good job covering the porous walls. I think im going to spend some time with a grinder and use non shrinking grout to cover any holes before i paint. You can also tint it to any color your want.



Probably a utility marking company. You don't want to find something you didn't know was there.1949 caddyman,
I do not understand.
Best regards,
Scott
Probably a utility marking company. You don't want to find something you didn't know was there.
Blue stake is a utility marking service here in Arizona. It may have another name for your area but they mark where cable, electric, phone, gas lines are located. Ps, I see I typed steak instead of stake in my post LOL. I wouldn't want a blue steak!





Thursday - April 14, 2016
The workers and the Electrician conferred a bit during this operation.
Looks like the electrician may be pondering testing that hard hat with the hammer in his hand...
