l like them too, did you make them?Love the hardwood handle grips.
l like them too, did you make them?
Oh Wow, they are original?No, they were on it, and the PO had it from about 30 years ago (he had it from another before that, and this make is hard to date - pre1957, anyway). I think they are original. They are very similar to what I've seen on vintagemachinery.org, where some have identified them as maple or walnut. I haven't given them a real hard look yet, but I think walnut. They seem like they must be jammed on, not screwed on. The round metal rods are flat with no thread on the ends in pics. Mine are each split from shrinking. I will probably start restoring them with BLO, and see if they swell a bit.
LesserSon, I can't tell the make of your DP from the photos but I have a Buffalo drill that has the same wood knobs on the handles and they are definitely stock and shown in the manual. They are pressed on.
Tom B.
Here's an old W.J&F Barnes drill press that I bought a few years ago...
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Neat machinery dealer tag...
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Original decal...
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Cleaned up and painted...
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Here's what I am currently working on. Some of you might have already seen this picture.
EDIT: here's a picture after I finished it.
Here is my Beaver drill press circa 1950

Yeah,Bubinga, I've noticed a few folks mention using oak to fabricate accessories for their tools. And there's a long tradition of using it for just about everything. It's not a species I would use in contact with ferrous metal. Like cedar, the acidity makes it rot resistant, and it's hard and tough, with a lovely coarse grain, but the acidity can damage iron, steel, and even stainless, especially in humid conditions. Depending on the situation, might want to check for darkening and pitting periodically. I've taken apart furniture where different wood species were used together, and where fasteners would come out of poplar, elm, chestnut pretty much intact, the oak had eaten up the same fasteners.



DanZ3,
Interesting where the switch is located on your motor. Mine has a switch on the cord. After I clean mine up some, I should be able to see if they look like the same motor. Perhaps someone just restored yours, and added the switch there?
The motor and drill press was "preserved" by me. The paint is all original. The only new parts were the drive belt, electrical cord and the switch. There is a hole in the motor casting that was the perfect fit for a switch.
Did you get the lathe as well?
Hey Jabber,
Sorry for taking so long to reply..... Yes, I did purchase the lathe as well. Unfortunately, in my haste to buy it, I didn't notice that it had parts missing and damage. I didn't pay much for it, but it was too far gone to fix, so I scrapped it. I felt like a traitor as I followed the wrecker to the scrap yard....
Brian
Why scrap it? That should have become a parts lathe to save other deserving lathes...
Real estate.... that lathe was over 12 feet long...
On the DP220: 1951 as per the Magic Decoder Ring at vintagemachinery.com wiki.
Real estate.... that lathe was over 12 feet long...
You likely made the best choice with it.

A post to a couple of the Lathe forums would have likely got a lot of the small off that for far more that the whole thing brought as scrap and likely fairly quickly so IMO a double loss: for NTZ, and for the guys searching high and low for the parts they needed.

So no one knows anything about my Hamilton Camel Back?
So no one knows anything about my Hamilton Camel Back?