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Penetrating Lubricant's Comparison

gdocktor3

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So the cats *** in the penetrating lube world seems to be Kroil. Though I have never used it, I seem to read about it almost every day. I don't doubt the "potency" of this stuff, but at $20+/- a can, the Pollack in me just won't allow it. Seriously, I am Polish and Liquid Wrench is on sale for $3.50 at Advance Auto right now. :willy_nil So I began looking around and came upon a few other "unknown" brands if you will, that claim to be of equal strength. I was wondering if anyone had any first hand experience with any of these? Here is a link showing a controlled test which proves Liquid Wrench just as good as Kroil, but for much cheaper. Acetone/ATF being the strongest though http://www.mvcconline.org/catagory4/Home made penatrating oil.pdf

The other brands in question are -
Mouse Milk - used in the aviation industries http://www.mousemilk.com/
BG in Force - https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/specialty/bg-in-force/
CRC Freeze Off - http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002
Schaeffer Oil - http://www.schaefferoil.com/penetro-oil.html
Sea Foam Deep Creep - I only threw this in because Sea Foam works wonders internally on engines. https://seafoamsales.com/deep-creep/

I get WD40 and CRC Knock'R Loose for free at work, but they don't always do the trick. Also, do you guys prefer aerosol penetrating lubes or a manual pistol pump type oiler? I use the oiler when I can. A lot of product can be wasted when using aerosol cans.
 
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bsaint

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I have some at home and I can't imagine I paid that much for it. But I can't even remember when I bought it. Although I recently did the 50/50 ATF and acetone. So far its worked amazing. It will separate so you have to shake it before you use it. At least what I mixed. Maybe because its Mercon V and not old school Mercon. I put it in one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025VR35C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Of course now its a damn Add-on item so you can't get it from Amazon.
 

Adam.C

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No magic here. The "penetrating" oils just have really low surface tensions that let them creep into microscopic cavities between parts.

Soap does the same thing. It lowers the surface tension of water, allowing it slump into the pores of our skin then float out dirt.

Acetone has a super low surface tension. So it creeps right into our skin and can find its way into our blood stream. Stick with light oil, use heat, or an impact wrench.
 

bsaint

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No magic here. The "penetrating" oils just have really low surface tensions that let them creep into microscopic cavities between parts.

Soap does the same thing. It lowers the surface tension of water, allowing it slump into the pores of our skin then float out dirt.

Acetone has a super low surface tension. So it creeps right into our skin and can find its way into our blood stream. Stick with light oil, use heat, or an impact wrench.

That's why you should always wear nitrile gloves when handling acetone. Sure its dangerous but that's why there's ppe. I guess if you're a child about it you shouldn't handle acetone.
 

Wamsutta

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I still think a part has to be submerged sometimes for the penetrating oil to get where it needs to be, but if you're buying Kroil, that can get pretty expensive real quick if you have to buy enough to submerge the part.
 

dnschmidt

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Kroil isn't $20.00 a can Google "Google Deal" and you get two cans for some reasonable price which, after you use it, you will quickly realize is a great bargain. "Don't be a Pollock." as my dad use to tell me. I fought this battle with Eric O. of South Main Auto and he is a Pollock previously having the same opinion as you. Once he used Kroil on that rusted **** he works on in Upstate New York he's never gone back to anything else. How much does it cost to fix broken off bolts: A hell of a lot more than a can of Kroil.
 
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gdocktor3

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Without that Google Deal it is most definitely right around $20 a can. I will gladly pay $20 for two though... Thanks
 

SteveCh

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I've probably paid half that for Kroil, including the extra large can. It's been a year or so since I bought a bunch of them though.
 

Warped5

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I've used Kroil and the stuff does work very well. My preference is for the acetone/ATF, though.

There are times when there's no substitute for some heat and a BFH, however.

gdoktor3: The correct term is 'Polack' .... a 'Pollock' is a fish. ;/
 

sberry

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We use Liq Wrench, some CRC and look for it by the case or on sale. Yes the kroil is fine but its not magic dust and is expensive and a pain in the *** as well as now in a cheap POS can.
If a joint is sealed no lube will get to it, the main point is to lube before running the thread over it. We probably use as much or more for assembly, the modern spray is about as good as it gets for thread lube. We oil every bolt we install.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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I have some at home and I can't imagine I paid that much for it. But I can't even remember when I bought it. Although I recently did the 50/50 ATF and acetone. So far its worked amazing. It will separate so you have to shake it before you use it. At least what I mixed. Maybe because its Mercon V and not old school Mercon. I put it in one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025VR35C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Of course now its a damn Add-on item so you can't get it from Amazon.
50/50 works better for me then Kroil, sorry Kroil guys and at maybe 1/10 th the price. that is all I use now.
 
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gdocktor3

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I've used Kroil and the stuff does work very well. My preference is for the acetone/ATF, though.

There are times when there's no substitute for some heat and a BFH, however.

gdoktor3: The correct term is 'Polack' .... a 'Pollock' is a fish. ;/

Hey I never said "Polacks" were smart!
 

Shiftless

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Seafoam Deep Creep seems to hold up better when used along with heat. The heat helps oil flow into the microscopic gaps to free up that stuck fastener.
But I'm another fan of Kroil. Got mine on the two for one deal. One can lasts a long time if you don't need to soak something big. For that I too use the 50-50 ATF and Acetone.

Anybody out there use an induction heater?
 
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gungatim

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No magic here. The "penetrating" oils just have really low surface tensions that let them creep into microscopic cavities between parts.

Soap does the same thing. It lowers the surface tension of water, allowing it slump into the pores of our skin then float out dirt.

Acetone has a super low surface tension. So it creeps right into our skin and can find its way into our blood stream. Stick with light oil, use heat, or an impact wrench.

good thing I don't wear nail polish...wonder how many women have fingernail cancer from using acetone in polish remover?

My favorite def. is the atf/acetone mix. I store it in stainless steel water bottles I pickup at yard sales for cheap so I always have it available. works as good or better than any of the expensive sprays...
 

Shiftless

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good thing I don't wear nail polish...wonder how many women have fingernail cancer from using acetone in polish remover?

My favorite def. is the atf/acetone mix. I store it in stainless steel water bottles I pickup at yard sales for cheap so I always have it available. works as good or better than any of the expensive sprays...

maybe I am being overly cautious, but...
I hope you label those bottle clearly as to what is inside. Maybe add a skull and crossbones symbol too.
I know of a toddler that found a plastic water bottle half full of paint thinner left overnight on a job site and swigged enough to get him into REAL trouble.

(former Chemistry teacher and grandfather to a 2 year old boy)
 

dnschmidt

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This discussion happens here about once a month and I'm always amazed by the guys that refuse to pay for Kroil (which I feel is cheap considering what it does and how long it lasts) but have no problem paying for Snap-On. Seems illogical but that's just me.
 

Shiftless

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This discussion happens here about once a month and I'm always amazed by the guys that refuse to pay for Kroil (which I feel is cheap considering what it does and how long it lasts) but have no problem paying for Snap-On. Seems illogical but that's just me.


:+1:
 

BK13

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This discussion happens here about once a month and I'm always amazed by the guys that refuse to pay for Kroil (which I feel is cheap considering what it does and how long it lasts) but have no problem paying for Snap-On. Seems illogical but that's just me.

+2

But WTH, I do weird stuff to save money, too!
 
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gdocktor3

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This discussion happens here about once a month and I'm always amazed by the guys that refuse to pay for Kroil (which I feel is cheap considering what it does and how long it lasts) but have no problem paying for Snap-On. Seems illogical but that's just me.

In my defense, I've never used it or seen it used. I think everyone is skeptical at first when it comes to buying something that is double the price of what something else also claims to do for much cheaper. This isn't the best comparison, but it's kind of like Supertech motor oil sold by Walmart vs. Mobil 1. Realistically they both do the same thing, but one could, and I'm sure someone will, argue that the Mobil 1 is better. That's why it cost more. Yet my 1998 GMC Sierra 4.3 Vortec has spent the last 10 years and 100k+/- miles running solely on Supertech oil. Either way I placed my order yesterday for the 2 Kroil Google deal.
 

Finky198

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Might have something to do with a lot of us living in the rust belt... And the price difference. I could literally go broke buying spray cans of pb or or kroil. When I can make a 1 gal of mix 60:40 acetone to ATF... For a few dollars. Hairspray bottles seem to hold up the best... And yes there labeled but no kids are allowed in the shop.
 
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Trey T

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This discussion happens here about once a month and I'm always amazed by the guys that refuse to pay for Kroil (which I feel is cheap considering what it does and how long it lasts) but have no problem paying for Snap-On. Seems illogical but that's just me.


+2

But WTH, I do weird stuff to save money, too!
+3
And these are the guys that probably finance every SO tools, because they can't afford it upfront. Stupid game they play against the SO corporate. Not all SO tool owners but there are great stories out there about debtors.
 

gungatim

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maybe I am being overly cautious, but...
I hope you label those bottle clearly as to what is inside. Maybe add a skull and crossbones symbol too.
I know of a toddler that found a plastic water bottle half full of paint thinner left overnight on a job site and swigged enough to get him into REAL trouble.

(former Chemistry teacher and grandfather to a 2 year old boy)

that is a fair warning. yes I write with a sharpie what something is so I don't forget, but that's it. my shop is not a playground or day care center, my kids are grown and gone for the most part and I don't allow people in my shop without me, so I am not worried. I see your point for a lot of folks though.

as for being "cheap", there are times I will pay for something that the cost/benefit ratio fit's my requirements. many times I won't simply because I don't believe in magic miracle oil. I understand chemistry enough to find what is in something and what makes it work. for me, and the volume of some chemicals I go through, it doesn't make sense to pay the big bucks for Kroil or electrical contact cleaner, or even mechanics had soap when I can make it in bulk for pennies...obviously I'm not the norm but I've always been a type X outlier...
 

Aerogt01

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maybe I am being overly cautious, but...
I hope you label those bottle clearly as to what is inside. Maybe add a skull and crossbones symbol too.
I know of a toddler that found a plastic water bottle half full of paint thinner left overnight on a job site and swigged enough to get him into REAL trouble.

(former Chemistry teacher and grandfather to a 2 year old boy)
"Johnny was a chemist's son but Johnny is no more. What Johnny thought was H20 was H2SO4."

Macabre, but gets the point across. And yes, it has happened - at least that's what my chemist father told me.
 

Adam.C

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And these are the guys that probably finance every SO tools, because they can't afford it upfront. Stupid game they play against the SO corporate. Not all SO tool owners but there are great stories out there about debtors.

Must every thread turn into a bash somebody else ******* match?

I'll bet lots of Snap On owners use old tee shirts for rags instead of paper towels or microfiber cloths. Does that make them hypocrites too?
 

Finky198

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This discussion happens here about once a month and I'm always amazed by the guys that refuse to pay for Kroil (which I feel is cheap considering what it does and how long it lasts) but have no problem paying for Snap-On. Seems illogical but that's just me.

I know I am an exact copy of what you're saying. I won't spend the money on Kroil or pb. We went thru over $150 of pb in a year and a half only 2 guys. Then I read about the mix and made a gallon last year and cost us $15 bucks and works just as well. It's money in my pocket. I'll take any discount, coupon, sale, use amaz eBay CL to save a few bucks it all adds up. Lol ( is that I run mobile1 synth and Lucas products in my jeep. so every one has different priorities that's all)

I think the concept is Kroil is disposable. And my Snap on tools last a lifetime. I always pay upfront no debt here, if you can't afford it then you gotta work harder... It took me a while but I owe nothing and own everything I got.
 
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JZiggy

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I've been a Kroil believer for a number of years now. But to be fair, I've never actually tried Acetone/ATF. This discussion it making me realize that I really do need to give that a try to understand how it compares.

Kano Labs (makes of Kroil) does have deals, so "$20 a can" is something of an exaggeration. More like $10/can or better if you split a shipment with a buddy. In my experience, that can last me at least 6 months. Just a squirt usually does it.

Kano also has some other interesting products that work well. Their silicone spray is excellent and I have used Kreen in a couple of dirty old engines with success. Seems like they've got something more than just snake oil back in the lab :)
 

Ctkelly

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I've used kroil before, but that was for cleaning gun barrels that shoot lead bullets. I'm sure it's a bit cheaper than kroil if you can find it, but I always had good luck with JB 80 (justice brothers).
 

dnschmidt

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Here's the only point I'm making. Kroil has the potential of saving you hours of time by freeing something that you would otherwise break off or damage. To me that makes it easily worth it's cost. If time is money, and it is, the financial arguments against Kroil are senseless. If it saves one exhaust manifold bolt it's worth it.
 
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gdocktor3

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I'm not a mechanic by trade and I've never purchased a brand new tool from snap on or Matco and only bought new Mac stuff on closeout. Your arguments are irrelevant in this case because I'm just plain cheap.. :thumbup:
 

gungatim

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I've used kroil before, but that was for cleaning gun barrels that shoot lead bullets. I'm sure it's a bit cheaper than kroil if you can find it, but I always had good luck with JB 80 (justice brothers).

side note but if you frequent some of the cast boolit forums there are some pretty awesome DIY bore cleaners similar to the atf/acetone mix, one is Fred's Red - you can look that up, as well as formula's for Hoppes #9 (original) and copper and lead removers as well...

remember there are generally no secret formula's, people used to make this stuff themselves or have it done at the local chemist shoppe, until a smart entrepreneur marketed a specific brand/formula to sell retail...kinda like growing your own food...we pay for convenience but that doesn't necessarily make it a better product.
 

Lassen Forge

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I love Kroil... when I need something with a little more body, I have a squirt can that's 50% Kroil and 50% 0W-20 Synthetic motor oil.

BTW - I bought 4 of the little pint cans (had to to get a price break)- and haven't even gone thru 1/4 of the first one at home.

We used to use Kroil pushed through an airless paint pump into the (sealed and rusting since 1936) rocker pins on a bridge I worked at, to then deliver grease. But they had to be broken free first. Kroil did the trick. (Then again we bought the stuff in 30 gallon drums, and paid thru the nose for it... but it was worth every penny.)
 

Finky198

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Here's the only point I'm making. Kroil has the potential of saving you hours of time by freeing something that you would otherwise break off or damage. To me that makes it easily worth it's cost. If time is money, and it is, the financial arguments against Kroil are senseless. If it saves one exhaust manifold bolt it's worth it.

IMHO they work exactly the same. so cost is the only deciding factor. Which to me if they work the same than I'll save my cash... If your worried about saving time I'd be worried about bigger things than my penetrating oil...
 

JonnyMac

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The Kroil importer here in Oz charges $120 a bottle and you have to buy a case of 12!!
They sell it to the mining companies...
Id love to try it but not for that price!!!
 

Finky198

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Must every thread turn into a bash somebody else ******* match?

I'll bet lots of Snap On owners use old tee shirts for rags instead of paper towels or microfiber cloths. Does that make them hypocrites too?

I do that to I get them for free so why not. I use the good stuff (shop towels, paper towels and micro fibers, for Windows, paint, and interiors. Free T shirts and rags for grease oil and under the hood.
 

Wamsutta

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Is there any guaranty with that Kroil? I've got an old carburetor with a frozen throttle shaft. If I spray it on there and it doesn't work, can I get my money back?
 

LMS

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I never see Castle Thrust listed in these discussions. Is it a uniquely Western NY thing?
 

dnschmidt

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JonnyMac, think about what you wrote. I know of no corporation in the world, whether it be in OZ or America, that gives away money. If they are willing to spend that kind of money for it don't you think there must be a reason. If something else were as good for 1/50th the price would they not use it. Here in America Kroil cost $53 a gallon which in my experience is a lifetime's worth of Kroil. Personally, I consider that to be dirt cheap. I've been using it since by dad stole a can of it and a Kroiller (their pump oil can) from work in 1970 and I'll be using it until I'm dead. I've been using the same gallon since 1980. It's true that I live in Arizona and rust isn't a big issue here but I'm originally from Pittsburgh, PA where it is and I've still got a quart left in the gallon I bought in 1980. Why are we discussing pennies?
 
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