You hammer them into a stripped/drilled screw, but how are you supposed to remove it? Twisting with a plier seems terrible and wobbly. If the thing was so rusted stuck to strip or break in the first place, you will need some serious torque. Is there a square bit or something?
How do you twist those square screw extractors?
- Thread starter Jacobson
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mrjaw14
Well-known member
Chinese fit-all, other wise known as a crescent wrench. or an 8-point socket. I've heard some people using 12-pt socket, but I've never done that
rlitman
Well-known member
Same here. You're better off with something like a tap handle that has two handles which balances the forces, unlike a wrench. Pliers or a wrench are going to make the extractor wobble, which will get it to release its grip.
I also have a set of Lisle tap sockets that I use with extensions and T bars. They're not really much different than my 8 point sockets, but they have inserts like a spark plug socket that keep them in place.
APEowner
Well-known member
I use the correctly sized 8point socket
drewvdw
Well-known member
Pipe plug sockets or a tap handle depending on size and access
Superbec
Well-known member
I jedy it loose , no extractors needed either.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Don't use them. They break and are heck to get out.
trackwelder
Well-known member
In my opinion this kits works the best
https://www.ridgid.com/mx/en/10-screw-extractor-set
https://www.ridgid.com/mx/en/10-screw-extractor-set
rlitman
Well-known member
"This is not the hole you're supposed to be screwed into."
Should be able to use a 12 pt socket too.
Last time I used one I used a Knipex Pliers wrench to grab it. Worked well and didn't seem too wobbly. I like the idea of using a tap handle though I'll definitely give that a shot next time.
Be very careful using EZ Outs. If a 3/8" bolt snaps off a 1/4" EZ Out will break off as well. Then you really have trouble on your hands. If the bolt breaks because of over tightening or it is sheared off you have a chance. If it is bottomed out or seized it will probably have to be drilled out. I do work for an automotive machine shop and I remove all the ones they can get out. I wind up removing lots of EZ Outs, drills, taps and other stuff you can't believe.
928'er
Well-known member
So, how do you get the hardened EZ Out out so you can get to the broken bolt?
I have a situation with an aluminum plug that is seized in a receptacle for a tow hook.
Porsche supplies a tow hook that screws into a boss at the front of the car. In their infinite wisdom, they started using an aluminum "plug" to keep road debris from collecting in the tow hook receptacle. Unfortunately, the "plug" seizes in place over time and exposure to the elements. They supply a kind of "speed wrench" with a hex drive to remove the plug. Of course, if the plug is seized, the hex drive on the speeder wrench simply shears off in plug when you try to remove it.
The aluminum plug is about an inch in diameter the broken off hex is ~6 or 7 mm. The only thing I can think of is maybe using a slightly undersized hole saw to remove most of the plug without damaging the threads and then picking the rest of the plug out.
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srvctec
Well-known member
Maybe use a step drill bit to get most of the plug opened up without damaging the threads and then drive in a reamer or something similar that you don't care about and try to back it out then. Just thinking "out loud" here.
_____________________________
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SantaAna12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2012
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Aluminum!
928'er
Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestion, but the problem is the sheared off hardened hex drive that is stuck in the end of the plug. Kinda hard to get a step drill started in the sheared off hex drive....
928'er
Well-known member
Actually, not sure if it's aluminum - it's an alloy of some sort. Knowing Porsche, it might be magnesium
Wish they'd just used a plastic plug....
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Wes J
Well-known member
If you break off a tap or hard EZ out, you have to get serious to remove it.
I've milled them out with a ball nose carbide end mill. It works better if you can use CNC and helical interpolate the mill instead of just plunging.
If that won't do it, sinker EDM will. There are also dedicated tap burners and disintigrators. They work in the same way an EDM does. If you break a roll form tap EDM is about the only choice.
All that said, I vastly prefer a welder to remove broken bolts and taps.
I've milled them out with a ball nose carbide end mill. It works better if you can use CNC and helical interpolate the mill instead of just plunging.
If that won't do it, sinker EDM will. There are also dedicated tap burners and disintigrators. They work in the same way an EDM does. If you break a roll form tap EDM is about the only choice.
All that said, I vastly prefer a welder to remove broken bolts and taps.
srvctec
Well-known member
Guess I missed that.
Maybe drill a bunch of small holes around the sheared off part and then knock out the center followed by the rest of my previous suggestion?____________________________
"It's time to be CORRECT, NOT politically correct!!!"
-The Truth
Mr. T
Well-known member
EZ outs aren't bad tools or a gimmick. You just have to know what they can and cannot accomplish.
To the OP's question, use a tap handle. You should be able to feel (with a little practice) how much force you're applying. If it's not moving, don't force it. If you don't force it... No broken EZ out.
Unless the threads are galled you'll get it out. You might have to let it soak in some penetrating lubricant and/or heat it but eventually it will start to turn. If the threads are galled, you've got to drill it out.
The decision to drill it out is also based on how much time you have to waste on the other methods. If it has to be out NOW, drilling always works.
To the OP's question, use a tap handle. You should be able to feel (with a little practice) how much force you're applying. If it's not moving, don't force it. If you don't force it... No broken EZ out.
Unless the threads are galled you'll get it out. You might have to let it soak in some penetrating lubricant and/or heat it but eventually it will start to turn. If the threads are galled, you've got to drill it out.
The decision to drill it out is also based on how much time you have to waste on the other methods. If it has to be out NOW, drilling always works.
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Wamsutta
Well-known member
Sliding T-handle tap wrench.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
It hard, so you tediously shatter it into little fragments and remove it, then pretty much use the welder instead.
redmondjp
Well-known member
Yup. I learned this lesson the hard way, but in my case it was a tap that broke off when I was recutting the threads on a timing cover mounting bolt hole in a big-block Ford engine. I had previously drilled out the old bolt and thought I was home free when I heard this "tink" and the tap broke right in half (it was a high-quality American-made tap from the 1970s as well).
It took me the better part of an afternoon to use a punch to break that tap into tiny bits to get it out. I didn't know at the time about those broken-tap extractor tools that they now have (which may not have even been available at that time, at least in my local small town).
ihateminimumwage
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- Joined
- Jan 26, 2012
- Messages
- 3,960
Yup. I have a Lisle set, and they've been great. Between those, a set of 1/4" Craftsman 12pt sockets, and some old 8 point square sockets I'm pretty much covered for tap and screw extractor drive sizes. Just depends on how large you need to go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRFOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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maxpower_hd
Well-known member
I do have three different sized tap handles. I didn't get them in a set though. They were bought or otherwise appropriated separately. My local True Value has them. So does Sears.
If you don't need them for taps then the plug sockets should work well enough for you. Those are everywhere. CM has them, the local ACE, anyplace really.
If you don't need them for taps then the plug sockets should work well enough for you. Those are everywhere. CM has them, the local ACE, anyplace really.
I just use the variable size kind that comes in most tap and die sets that looks like one of these:
jsaw
Well-known member
8 point sockets
66354dream
Well-known member
Is that from Dave Chappele?d.mcfarland
Well-known member
First step would be using the tool correctly ... which i'm guessing rarely happens around your parts.
You also never mentioned what extractors you have. The twist kind are used differently than the non twist fluted kind. Might want to start there.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Ditto. Not so much the larger screw extractors, but you bust off a smaller one, and you have troubles. They are super hard, and only carbide will take them out.
MushCreek
Well-known member
I just spent the week removing 96 (!) severely corroded pipe fittings from a plastic injection mold. Exactly ONE unscrewed without being drilled and using a screw extractor. The other 95 put up various amounts of resistance, and one had to be drilled out and the threads picked out one by one. I've been doing this stuff for many years, and have a variety of tricks.
I like the square extractors much more than the spiral ones. You use a tap handle, as others have pointed out to give a balanced torque. It's very easy to snap one off pulling off-center with an adjustable wrench or pliers. The cheapest Harbor Fright tap handles work just as well for this use as a $100 Starrett.
I always start with penetrating oil- Kroil or PB Blaster. If that doesn't work, then heat. If that doesn't work, then heat, and then penetrating oil. Although a bolt can be fused in place pretty bad, once the head pops off, at least you're not fighting bolt stretch. I've seen bolts walk right out after the head popped off. Rare, but it happens. A square screw extractor can take a surprising amount of torque. It's downright scary when you can actually feel it flex. I have the advantage of working in a tool room, where there is an EDM machine if all else fails.
If there's room, welding an extension on the broken bolt works wonders. It gives you something to hold on to. and the heat may loosen things up. Sometimes tapping (Okay, pounding) on the offending fastener will help break up rust and other stuff.
I've broken taps and screw extractors when I didn't have an EDM or carbide drill. With enough determination (and safety glasses) you can shatter them and dig the pieces out. Sometimes these things can take all day! I've also drilled the entire mess out with a hollow mill (like a miniature hole saw) and pressed in a plug to replace the impossible fastener. Good luck!
I like the square extractors much more than the spiral ones. You use a tap handle, as others have pointed out to give a balanced torque. It's very easy to snap one off pulling off-center with an adjustable wrench or pliers. The cheapest Harbor Fright tap handles work just as well for this use as a $100 Starrett.
I always start with penetrating oil- Kroil or PB Blaster. If that doesn't work, then heat. If that doesn't work, then heat, and then penetrating oil. Although a bolt can be fused in place pretty bad, once the head pops off, at least you're not fighting bolt stretch. I've seen bolts walk right out after the head popped off. Rare, but it happens. A square screw extractor can take a surprising amount of torque. It's downright scary when you can actually feel it flex. I have the advantage of working in a tool room, where there is an EDM machine if all else fails.
If there's room, welding an extension on the broken bolt works wonders. It gives you something to hold on to. and the heat may loosen things up. Sometimes tapping (Okay, pounding) on the offending fastener will help break up rust and other stuff.
I've broken taps and screw extractors when I didn't have an EDM or carbide drill. With enough determination (and safety glasses) you can shatter them and dig the pieces out. Sometimes these things can take all day! I've also drilled the entire mess out with a hollow mill (like a miniature hole saw) and pressed in a plug to replace the impossible fastener. Good luck!
R.Anderson
Well-known member
Hex head extractors are my favorite, but sometimes not long enough. For the square heads most of the time adjustable wrench works for me. Those socket adapters for taps are great to have to and work if ya need more torque. Another trick is use a auto punch. Punch the busted bolt in a way it forces it to turn left and or right, this some times gets the busted bolt out.
Attachments
MDK22
Well-known member
8 point socket, t-handle, ratchet or breaker bar (be careful you can unevenly load it this way)
Best extractors money can buy https://store.snapon.com/Tapered-Bit-Extractors-Set-Extractor-Tapered-Bit-P635478.aspx
Best extractors money can buy https://store.snapon.com/Tapered-Bit-Extractors-Set-Extractor-Tapered-Bit-P635478.aspx
RAYJAY
Well-known member
i use tap sockets
I would try drilling threw with a little larger bit then pond a Allen wrench threw it broaching a new hole. Fill the hole with a good penetrating oil would be good.