1930's Hotpoint Gun Cabinet

[Fyrme]

I planned on just throwing up a pic of the finished product in the repurposing thread, but after looking online for ideas, and seeing several people with the same idea and presents the idea asking for advice on building one, gets flamed for it rather than helpful ideas. I figured I would throw up a thread showing how it can be done.

Now, before I post anything else, I am calling this a "fire RESISTANT gun cabinet" Not fire proof, not a gun safe, just a FR cabinet. If you think I'm an idiot and the only advice you have is "Just by a safe", I've heard your type and you are encouraged to move along please.........

This will be a real time build, and for the most part I will be working on this every third day at the fire station on down time.

I was given an old Hotpoint fridg from the '30s. I was told it might work, but it had been in a barn for the past 50 years. It sat in my lean-to for the past year until I decided what I wanted to do with it. After deciding that I could make a legit FR cabinet, I didn't even plug it it to see if it worked before I tore it apart. Yeah, you guys are allowed to tear me a new one for doing that, I can take it, Now, on with the show.

Here it is after pulling it out of the lean-to, still attached to the dolly I unloaded it with a year ago...

The first order was to strip it down to see what I had to work with.
First to come off was the top. It was packed with 4" cardboard insulation, which made me think, "no wonder these things are energy hogs". Well that was only on the top for some reason.

Under that was the top of the inner compartment. and a peek at the insulated sides under that paper.

After stripping all the inside components and compressor, I was down to the inner and outer shell essentially.

At this point, I didn't take documentation pics, but I removed the connecting trim pieces and removed the inner compartment exposing the super nasty insulation. I have no idea what that stuff was comprised of, but it was like a super coarse, dense fiberglass with what appeared to be some type of resin, or other semi solid methyl-ethyl-bad **** and throw it in the dumpster.

So back to the pictorials.
The old white paint was chalking really bad so to remove that, and the rust and fiberglass on the inside of the shell, I washed and scrubbed every piece to get ready for the fun part...

 

[Fyrme]

...The Build

So here's the plan:

1. increase the depth of the inner shell
2. line the outside of the inner shell with two layers of 5/8" Type X drywall giving the inner compartment a 1hr fire rating.
3. fill the remaining space with rock wool insulation to reduce heat transfer from the outer shell to the inner shell.
4. Line the door with the same materials as the main shell and add expandable fire rope door seal.
5. Line the inside with 3/8 or 1/2" plywood for ease of mounting rails and shelves as well as carpet.

Once I had everything clean, I was able to mock some things up to see what was ahead of me. The inner shell had a removable section to service the freezer on top.

Since I had planned on cutting the bottom out of the inner shell to increase the depth of it down into the old compressor well. I flipped the shell over and verified that the screw holes all line up to remount it. To my amazement, the shell fits flawlessly in either direction.

This way, I can have a solid top that doesn't require any fire caulk.
Did I mention the inside is all porcelain coated?
In order to expand the depth, this already rusted out divider will be cut out giving access down to the frame near the floor.

This is where I'm at as of now, Next shift I'll fire up the plasma cutter and get the sparks flying on fabbing pieces for the bottom well.

 

[longlivepunk]

Subscribed. Looking forward to seeing what you do here! I've been thinking lately of getting my PAL (gun license in Canada) I haven't been to the range much at all since the army and I miss it.

 

[bad_idea]

Cool. I like it. Couldn't you put a gun safe within the fridge to add additional fire rating and security while retaining the appearance of the fridge?

Also, there is a fair chance that old insulation in the fridge has asbestos in it. Super bad for your lungs. Wear a respirator while handling and minimize tearing and fibers in the air.

 

[Fyrme]

Cool. I like it. Couldn't you put a gun safe within the fridge to add additional fire rating and security while retaining the appearance of the fridge?

Also, there is a fair chance that old insulation in the fridge has asbestos in it. Super bad for your lungs. Wear a respirator while handling and minimize tearing and fibers in the air.

Well unless the whole idea was just to hide a safe, it would not be cost effective to put a safe in the fridg. I'm in this whole project for $30 so far. However, if you wanted to hide a safe, building a cabinet around it would be a great way to do it.

Thanks for the heads up on the asbestos. A lot of people are not educated on that nasty stuff. Fortunately I've been in the construction field for the majority of my life and have had lots of awareness training over the years. I'm not saying it didn't have any, but it did not have the characteristics of asbestos. The batt's have been disposed of and the fridg has been washed and scrubbed inside and out.

 

[C_F]

I like where you are going with this project! Are you going to paint it back to white, or another color?

 

[countryroad82]

This is a cool project. Will be following this as it plugs along.

 

[PFSard]

I like your initial post in this thread. I'm not interested in the negative criticism (I guess you'd call it). I'm really looking forward to your progress in giving that fridge a new purpose in life.

 

[OccupantRJ]

We have an old fridge at work like that. It has been converted to warming oven to keep electrical insulating grit dry.

 

[Tony G]

I have thought about doing that too once. How are you going to lock it?

 

[Fyrme]

I like where you are going with this project! Are you going to paint it back to white, or another color?

I have not decided on the color yet. If the door was not so scratched up and rusted, I'd wet sand it and clear coat it as-is. But the door is pretty rough. I figure I have a little time to decide on the cosmetics.

I have thought about doing that too once. How are you going to lock it?

That is one question I have lost a little sleep over. A ugly old hasp is out of the question, no doubt. As of right now, the plan is to drill a hole through the handle base and put a padlock though it, not allowing the handle to be pulled. Remember, this is not a "safe" so as long as It has some kind of lock, it should be enough to detour a kid or a quick thief from thinking it's any more than a locked fridg, which will match my "real" locked freezer... However, I will say the wheels are still rolling in my head for a better solution.

 

[gte718p]

You could put a min mag lock on it. Not going to stop a determined thief would stop the common opening.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G7ZE1M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Fyrme]

Gte, I like it!! I could put a couple on there. Those things are extremely strong, so it would take a pry bar to open it. I could hook it up to some kind of hidden keypad or push button.

 

[gungatim]

sub'd.

cool idea. can't wait to see it finished. my first paint job at the body shop was an old fridge like that. we put a stroh's tap handle inplace of the original...

for a lock, I bet you could configure a hidden latch within the door, where you pass a magnet over a certain area and it releases a catch. or check out the stealth tailgate latches for pickups, something like that hidden under the bottom panel...

 

[Fyrme]

I got a little done today. Mostly interior planning though. I believe I can lay it out to fit a maximum of 20 long guns, while still having a little bit of shelf storage up top. If I set them at an angle, I should be able to fit 4 along each outer wall and 8 down the center, giving me 16 for sure. If they sit right, I could add 4 across the back wall giving me 20. The door will hold all my handguns as well as a couple other things I have in mind.
As far as actual work, I took some measurements to see just how much room I have between the inner and outer boxes. After two layers of drywall, I should be able to compress 3.5" rock wool down to 2" completely filling all the space.

The door has even more space

So just a coincidence, but my son worked a summer job doing electrical work at a school and came across a 4'x5' sheet of double sided porcelain coated sheet metal. I generally would not have chosen to use it since I have to weld up the pieces, but it was free and it will give me the same thermal qualities as the rest of the box, which is also porcelain. I know it doesn't offer a ton, but it is a bit better on insulating than uncoated sheet metal. I will tell you that my plasma cutter sure didn't care for it much.
You might have to use your imagination a little, but this box will be welded to the bottom of the existing box, giving me a internal height of 52". My longest gun is 48.5"

In order to do so, I had to cut out that rusted out partition.

upside down view for the Aussie's on here.

That's it for this shift. I'm afraid I have to drag my welder to work with me for the next step. I've got a full day of training next shift, but I hope to strike an arc after dinner and get something done....

 

[T.C.]

Very cool!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fyrme]

I thought this was going to be a great third day project to keep me busy on our down time, but it looks like this may become a "at home" project now. I've been babying a knee injury for a few weeks, and had a MRI done and a consult with a surgeon today. Partial meniscus tear with some cartilage damage. It will be a 15 min out patient procedure, and I'll be walking the same day, but I'll be off the truck for at least 4 weeks doing PT. Depending on if they leave me off work, (which I'd prefer), or put me on light duty, will determine if I get this done in just a few weeks, or several weeks. Getting old *****! Haha.

 

[Shootinok]

What a COOL project !

and a fellow Okie - I'll be watching this thread.
Hope all goes well with the knee.

 

[KMinAF]

I have not decided on the color yet. If the door was not so scratched up and rusted, I'd wet sand it and clear coat it as-is. But the door is pretty rough. I figure I have a little time to decide on the cosmetics.



That is one question I have lost a little sleep over. A ugly old hasp is out of the question, no doubt. As of right now, the plan is to drill a hole through the handle base and put a padlock though it, not allowing the handle to be pulled. Remember, this is not a "safe" so as long as It has some kind of lock, it should be enough to detour a kid or a quick thief from thinking it's any more than a locked fridg, which will match my "real" locked freezer... However, I will say the wheels are still rolling in my head for a better solution.

What about using the hidden solenoid latch like those used on custom cars?

 

[bad_idea]

Keyless entry on a fridge / gun safe. Doesn't get better than that.

 

[chruler]

This is a cool project. Looking forward to see how you plan the inside for storage.

 

[Fyrme]

I've been looking into and thinking a bit about the 'powered' lock systems. I love the idea. The only issue I see is the power supply. Anyone can unplug it and it will lose its locking ability. A solution would be a 12v battery since most are 12v DC powered. I happen to find a 1200lb mag lock the other day for free. I need to measure the space to see if it will fit though.

 

[gte718p]

I've been looking into and thinking a bit about the 'powered' lock systems. I love the idea. The only issue I see is the power supply. Anyone can unplug it and it will lose its locking ability. A solution would be a 12v battery since most are 12v DC powered. I happen to find a 1200lb mag lock the other day for free. I need to measure the space to see if it will fit though.

True, and most security systems will have a backup battery. On the other hand, it looks like a fridge, people expect fridges to be plugged in. Unplugging it to open the door will probably not be their first, second, or third thought. If someone is actively trying to break in you probably have other issues. It would definitely keep curious kids and casual passerbys out.

A battery will not sustain a 1200b lock very long. Generally the larger they are the more current the pull. There are exceptions, they can still be fairly low current if they have a ton of wiring and are huge.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I was thinking - put a battery and charger inside the box, run a plug (that looks like one of those old fridge plugs) in from the charger to the wall outlet to keep the battery (that's powering the maglock) energized. That way if someone DOES pull the plug the door doesn't pop open.

I'd also put a mechanical hidden latch lock on it somewhere, just because.

As long as it still looks like a fridge, and no one knows your "secret", you should be good to go.

 

[Fyrme]

You both make valid points. The original latch is and will be functional. It pulls like a car door and latches like a house door. So even if the mag locks failed, it would stay closed. My thoughts were to install a small 12v battery like a security system and have it powered with a little transformer/charger. If it was unplugged for what ever reason, maybe a would be thief trying to steal a cool fridg, it would remain locked for a few min, while said thief realized it was to heavy to move i.e. bolted to the floor, and move on etc... Again, this thing is more for fire security that human security, so keeping the lock functional is a secondary concern.

 

[chruler]

Will a battery charger inside the fridge give off any harmful fumes that might affect contents?

 

[Fyrme]

Will a battery charger inside the fridge give off any harmful fumes that might affect contents?

All of that would be located out side the inner compartment in the bottom of the fridg.

I just looked at that Magloc specs and It's 12vdc 250ma load. I think a small security battery with a small transformer/charger will do the job fine.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

If you use automotive power lock and and or keyless entry parts, they will default to stay in their last location, and halve almost no draw when not in use.

 

[Mongo68]

Old school trunk solenoid with the cable should do it. Give it power, it pops like a trunk. Backup can be a cable on a key in the back?

 

[smokindawg]

I like the idea of a fridge for a gun cabinet. I actually made one from a side by side. Guns in the fridge side and then ammo and loading supplies in the freezer side.

I like where your going with your build....... It will be great with the vintage look of it.

 

[Fyrme]

Ok, so now that hunting season is coming to an end and Christmas is all but over, it is finally time to get back to this thing. After getting the shell prepped for the add on, I mocked up all the pieces with tack welds to the box so it would hold itself together. I then welded all the seams up tight and then the box to the inner shell.






I then fire caulked the seams and added the first layer of 5/8" fire rock


I'm at the fire house tomorrow, so I should be able to tape my seams and add the second layer.

 

[Fyrme]

First layer bedded and taped.



The second layer is 100% bedded with gypsum mud just like you would a true fire wall. Once all sides are added, they too will be bedded and taped.

 

[nine4gmc]

Awesome!

 

[penright]

Just ran across this post. We recently just moved and bought a new refrigerator for the new house. The realtor wanted us to remove the old one from the old house while they sell it. Everyone suggested I put it in the new man cave "detach garage being built". It man cave MC, is just big enough and I did not want to use up the space or electricity. Been looking for someone to haul it off, but now you are giving me new ideas. I had our savings budget for the move, with closing being #1 and new MC #2 with other things like sprinklers and such. As #2 started using up more $$$ than planned, my gun safe was one thing that got scratched. My concern is not as much theft as it is fire. As mad as I would be if someone stole them, I was be more hurt to know some guns handed down from my grandfather and father would be destroyed. As you said FR may not be fire safe, but it is more than the closest they are in now.
First question, status?
Second question, any links on the products?
Third question, what have you decided on door lock if any? I kind of like the car trunk with backup hidden cable pull.

 

[Fyrme]

Thanks for checking it out pen. The most current status update I have is I've got both layers of drywall on and all the joints taped on the inner shell. Sorry, you can only take so many pics of a drywall box. I did do a test fit on it with the outer shell, and man is the space dwindling fast. The next step is to go pick up the rock wool insulation and get it installed before I can put the outer shell back on. At that point I will be remaking the tie-in trim pieces in steel, since the original bake-lite trim doesn't play well with fire.
As far as the products, I'm just using common 'Type X' 5/8" drywall, standard joint compound and standard tape. I did my research on the fire proofing and everything I read says standard tape is code.
As far as the wool insulation, I haven't picked out where I'll buy from, but this is what I'll be using.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roxul-Sa...e-Wool-Insulation-12-Roll-RXSS31525/202531875

Now, the lock choice I went with was a magnetic door lock like this one, model 1571, with 1200lb holding force.
http://sdcsecurity.com/1570-Series-Electromagnetic-Door-Lock.htm
T
With that said, the ONLY reason I went this route is because it was free. If I had to buy something, I would have gone a different route because of the expense. I will be using a small hidden momentary push button that simply breaks the power in order to open the door.

 

[gt1guy]

What a cool project.

 

[Fcvapor05]

You might want to reconsider using a magnetic lock for storage of weapons...

Your alternatives are:

1) the lock is electromagnetically held, which means a thief can open the lock by unplugging it from the wall. That's bad. You could put in a battery backup- there are systems designed for this- but that adds more cost than a simple lock would and then you have a battery with non-infinite life you have to monitor

2) the lock is magnetically held, meaning you need to apply power to open it, which means if you lose power you can't access your firearms. This could be bad depending on the combinations of conditions involved in an emergency scenario.

Just food for thought.

 

[Fyrme]

Thanks for the tip vapor. I've got it figured out. The mag lock will be powered from a 12v battery. In the event it gets unplugged, they are only unplugging a charger. The battery will have the capacity to maintain the mag for at least 8 hours. The thief will be long gone and the fire will be long out by then. The magnet is held by power, so it will be accessible with the interruption of power using a easily accessible hidden switch. But like I said before. This is more of a fire resistive cabinet than it is a safe.

 

[PelicanPines]

Been lurking this thread since I first found it... must say... awesome idea and fabrication. When it is finished... i'm pretty sure it will win a NIFTY award.

 

[Fyrme]

It's coming along.....