Clear coat over epoxy question

[amrogers3]

I recently applied the Rustoleum kit you can buy at Home Depot on my garage floor. It was the water-based epoxy. I would like to apply a clear coat on top. Can I use a solvent-based clear coat over a water-based epoxy?

I have googled the question but can't find an answer.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

In most cases yes. The water or solvent is only the vehicle. They evaporate leaving only the solids.


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[Armorpoxy]

We have had many customers coat over home center epoxy with our Armorclad 2-part military grade topcoat.

 

[amrogers3]

I didn't know about the difference between water and solvent based epoxy otherwise I wouldn't have used the Rustoleum water based version.

My plan is to let the floor cure for about 6 days and apply a coat of Rexthane to add a layer of protection. Hopefully, it will help prevent the floor from coming up and prevent hot tire pickup.

Anything I should know before I put down the Rexthane over the water-based epoxy layer?


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[Shea]

Rust-Oleum's clear epoxy is their Professional solvent based version. It is used over the water based epoxy kit all the time. You should not have any issues either way.

 

[amrogers3]

Rust-Oleum's clear epoxy is their Professional solvent based version. It is used over the water based epoxy kit all the time. You should not have any issues either way.

Thanks for the feedback. I am hesitant to get the Rust-Oleum clear epoxy. I read it has issues yellowing when exposed to sunlight so I wanted to get a better top coat product.

I went to get some Rexthane from Sherwin Williams today, he says it is too hot for the water-based epoxy coat we put down initially and it might cause the bottom layer to crack. He recommended Sherwin Williams Armorseal 1K which is a water based clear coat.

1) Not sure if I should put down Rexthane or this water-based Armorseal, confused.
2) Is there a window for when I can put down the clear over the original epoxy coat? It will be about a 2 week window before I can apply the clear coat
3) I've kept the floor clean and haven't walked on it, is there any prep I need to do since it will be two week in between the epoxy and clear coat applications?

Any help would be most appreciated, I dont want to ruin my garage floor

**By the way, I read your posts on www.allgaragefloors.com, very informative stuff, if only I had read that before I bought the Rust-Oleum!!**



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[amrogers3]

a friendly bump in hopes you guys can help answer some of my questions

 

[Shea]

Some manufacturers are not going to recommend applying anything outside of their own line. I suggest giving a few of the vendors here a call to see what they can recommend for you. They are your best resource. And yes, the clear Rust-Oleum will yellow over time if your garage floor is exposed much to U.V. light.

In terms of floor prep, you will need to rough up the surface with some 100 grit sandpaper before applying a clear coat since you are way past the recoat window. A pole sander can usually make quick work of a two car garage. You aren't trying to remove any of the coating, just degloss it and create some bite.

 

[amrogers3]

I tried sanding a small spot today to test it. So I can't rough up the epoxy without roughing up the paint chips as well.

Is there an alternative without messing up the paint chips I already put down?

 

[Shea]

You are going to lose some of the paint chips in the process. This is why it's best to apply the clear coat within the reapplication window if you applied paint chips. The ones that don't come up may get the finished roughed up a bit, but they will look fine once the clear coat is applied.

 

[sjh44]

Thanks for the feedback. I am hesitant to get the Rust-Oleum clear epoxy. I read it has issues yellowing when exposed to sunlight so I wanted to get a better top coat product.

I went to get some Rexthane from Sherwin Williams today, he says it is too hot for the water-based epoxy coat we put down initially and it might cause the bottom layer to crack. He recommended Sherwin Williams Armorseal 1K which is a water based clear coat.

1) Not sure if I should put down Rexthane or this water-based Armorseal, confused.
2) Is there a window for when I can put down the clear over the original epoxy coat? It will be about a 2 week window before I can apply the clear coat
3) I've kept the floor clean and haven't walked on it, is there any prep I need to do since it will be two week in between the epoxy and clear coat applications?

Any help would be most appreciated, I dont want to ruin my garage floor

**By the way, I read your posts on www.allgaragefloors.com, very informative stuff, if only I had read that before I bought the Rust-Oleum!!**



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Some manufacturers are not going to recommend applying anything outside of their own line. I suggest giving a few of the vendors here a call to see what they can recommend for you. They are your best resource. And yes, the clear Rust-Oleum will yellow over time if your garage floor is exposed much to U.V. light.

In terms of floor prep, you will need to rough up the surface with some 100 grit sandpaper before applying a clear coat since you are way past the recoat window. A pole sander can usually make quick work of a two car garage. You aren't trying to remove any of the coating, just degloss it and create some bite.

I'm in the same position as amrogers3 was - I've just put down Rustoleum water-based epoxy Wednesday and Thursday nights (today is Friday) and was wondering if anyone has experience applying Rexthane 1-part moisture cure as a coating? I was originally leaning towards clear coat but saw some posts re: epoxy yellowing even under clear urethane so am open to colored urethane (gray) over epoxy. Any thoughts on what product to use over water based Rustoleum epoxy that would offer UV protection (unlike Rustoleum clear coat product) AND whether I should use recoat time or cure time before applying such a product.