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Central air quit.... any tips?

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John T

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Raised ranch/ air handler in attic

the system is working but blowing warm air....



compressor lines are warm and looking inside,it is not sweating like when working normally.



system installed in 2007 never had any freon leaks / nothing rusted or rotted...

I guess a leak is possible of course..



Anything I can check /self diagnose before I call the HVAC guy to get over sometime next week..



I'm thinkin maybe a bad relay or switch? :dunno:



The dogs can't seem to figure it out either... :D

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J

John T

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Wouldn't a bad cap prevent the compressor from starting?

Mine starts


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John T

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Cap looks ok
Not bulged

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John T

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I'm going upstairs to take stuff apart

B4 it gets hot


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danski0224

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John T said:
the system is working but blowing warm air....



compressor lines are warm and looking inside,it is not sweating like when working normally.



system installed in 2007 never had any freon leaks / nothing rusted or rotted...
Click to expand...

Are you indeed sure that all of the components are operating (energizing)?

Lets see, 2016-2007=9. It is quite possible that there are leaks, most often from the indoor coil. Normally, these would not be obviously visible (nor is all of the coil surface area typically visible as-installed).

Leaks are a PITA to chase down. Less than honorable HVAC companies will instruct employees to cry "Freon leak" or "cracked heat exchanger" as a motivator or scare tactic to sell new equipment. The majority of residential HVAC companies operate on performance based pay, so selling a new system is far more profitable than repairing the old.

Unless it's painfully obvious to the naked eye, best thing to do is install UV dye, recharge, run the system and check back later. Note that not all of the coil surface area and joints are typically visible, and may not become visible without component dis-assembly.

It is acceptable to identify the "Freon leak" or "cracked heat exchanger" to the customer and then make an educated decision about system replacement, as spending what could be a grand or more on repairs may not be cost effective based upon system age.

More often than not, unsubstantiated claims are made as a scare sales tactic.

Good luck.
 
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John T

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well,
my coil upstairs was quite dirty... I gently vacuumed brushed the big stuff.... going down for a can of foaming spray now...

not sure if that was 100% the problem... but it needs cleaning in any case..

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TractorJeff

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WOW!
That's really filthy!
What are you running for an Air Filter?
Hopefully not one of those cheap Fiberglass ones.
 
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John T

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9 years

Yes i use a regular filter


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zmaxmotorsports

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danski0224 said:
Are you indeed sure that all of the components are operating (energizing)?

Lets see, 2016-2007=9. It is quite possible that there are leaks, most often from the indoor coil. Normally, these would not be obviously visible (nor is all of the coil surface area typically visible as-installed).

Leaks are a PITA to chase down. Less than honorable HVAC companies will instruct employees to cry "Freon leak" or "cracked heat exchanger" as a motivator or scare tactic to sell new equipment. The majority of residential HVAC companies operate on performance based pay, so selling a new system is far more profitable than repairing the old.

Unless it's painfully obvious to the naked eye, best thing to do is install UV dye, recharge, run the system and check back later. Note that not all of the coil surface area and joints are typically visible, and may not become visible without component dis-assembly.

It is acceptable to identify the "Freon leak" or "cracked heat exchanger" to the customer and then make an educated decision about system replacement, as spending what could be a grand or more on repairs may not be cost effective based upon system age.

More often than not, unsubstantiated claims are made as a scare sales tactic.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
A freon leak and a cracked heat exchanger are 2 completely unrelated issues.
Most freon leaks are find/repair are in the shRader valves where gauges hook up on condensing unit.
A valve core screwdriver for fixing car tires is a handy tool for tightening them up.
 
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zmaxmotorsports

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John T said:
well,
my coil upstairs was quite dirty... I gently vacuumed brushed the big stuff.... going down for a can of foaming spray now...

not sure if that was 100% the problem... but it needs cleaning in any case..

272fd83c8455754a3372e088adc5c5ed.jpg
Click to expand...
Ive seen worse;)
Depending on where you live most box stores sell the basic pleated white filters for a couple bucks each,they work a lot better than the fiberglass ones.
Just make sure you check it every month,especially with dogs. (Ask me how I know this:lol:)
 

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John T

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I think the compressor is bad

I cant hear it running with my stethoscope
Only the fan


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zmaxmotorsports

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One side of capacitor can be bad without it bulging,it may be worth a few bucks to gamble on a new capacitor before calling a service guy.
Just make sure to kill the power and discharge both sides of the old one first.
 
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John T

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If the capacitor was bad wouldn't the fan stop working?

The fan starts up and works fine

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John T

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I need to find out which wires are which
So I can test continuity of the compressor
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zmaxmotorsports

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If you want to check the compressor I'd pull the top off of the condensing unit,then just pop the cover off the leads going into the compressor.
Pull the wires off and check it there.
I'd test the cap first though.;)
 
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gregtwojeeps

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Have you checked the load side voltage on the compressor contactor while it is pulled in to be sure you are getting 240 V to the compressor ? Sometimes a contactor can have one pole of the two bad and not allow enough voltage to the compressor and it will just hum. Just a thought.
 
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zmaxmotorsports

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gregtwojeeps said:
Have you checked the load side voltage on the compressor contactor while it is pulled in to be sure you are getting 240 V to the compressor ? Sometimes a contactor can have one pole of the two bad and not allow enough voltage to the compressor and it will just hum. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

He seems to be getting 240v to run the fan anyway.
 
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samss

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The compressor terminals will be marked (C) common, (S) start, and (R) run.
Common (C) to Start (S) plus Common (C) to Run (R) should always equal Start (S) to Run (R).*@#$ (C-S) + (C-R) = (S-R).*@#$ Common to run should be the lowest reading.*@#$ Common to start should be the mid-range reading. Start to run should be the highest reading.

C-S 3.68
C-R 1.35
S-R 5.03
Of course, if any combination shows open the compressor will not run.
Also check the terminals to ground for a short.
 
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chrispyny

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what was the grand total of repair costs please? Wondering what a visit like that costs in your area, or for that matter, mine...
 
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zmaxmotorsports

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Marctrees said:
Look at the shape and exact location of the hole.

It must have been vibrating abrading against the line right in front of it, until he bent it over a bit to separate them.

I assume the tech checked the previously touching pipe as well. Marc
Click to expand...
Now I see it.
I really need to break down and buy a new computer,trying to look at stuff on my phone screen is driving me nuts/blind!:lol:
 
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bonneyman

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I have the exact same weighing scale. :thumbup:

What gas did the tech install - one of the drop-in alternatives? Because the can on R22 is green, on R410a it's pink.
 
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John T

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total
600 clams.

3.5 hours labor
227 gas.

company rates...:(

I got the guys # for future moonlight work.

yeah,
r22 substitute... supposed to be cheaper $$ R438A

2 tubes rubbing...

funny thing... pressure test showed no loss...

UNTIL I spotted the tube and separated them..... then a slight loss...
a slight cleaning of the tube revealed the hole.

the other larger tube was fine.

He used brazing rod and closed the hole.

ice cold house tonight. :bounce:
 
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