Repainting Wilton Machinist Vise - Any Tips?

rhastings80 · Sep 27, 2009

Hi Everyone,

I picked up this Wilton Machinist Vise. It is from 1980. I have spent quite a bit of time using my angle grinder with a wire disc to remove the old paint and rust. Then I cleaned with Dawn and water. After that I used Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover. After that I rinsed with water and used some Rust Bullet Metal Blast and rinsed with water, dried and then let sit in the sun.

I was thinking I would paint with the Duplicolor engine primer and then the Duplicolor 500F engine paint. Then thought after 3 days I would cook it on my outside grill at 200F. My other thought was appliance paint from Home Depot but all they have is white. I was planning on painting a glossy gray.

Does anybody know of some better paint I could use? And if so where would I get it? This will be my first time trying to paint something where I took the time to clean it well. I don't have a big compressor or large setup so it would have to be something either I spray on via a spray paint can or something I can brush on. After spening what feels like 5 or 6 hours cleaning up this vise I'm hoping the paint doesn't peel or scratch off easy.

Thanks,
Rob

:bowdown:

back2class · Sep 27, 2009

Don't bother with any spray paints as they will be delicate. A brushed rusteoium job is best. It is soft enough where it wont chip and is still durable. It is a vise and will get banged up one would hope. This is one case where the easiest product is also the best one to use.

rsanter · Sep 27, 2009

powdercoat it

bob

mjozefow · Sep 27, 2009

Nice vise!

I sprayed rustoleum onto warm parts for mine. Nothing you put on it is going to resist grinding or otherwise. But rustoleum is easy to touch-up.

georgiadave · Sep 27, 2009

I use Machinery Paint. It is lead based and very tough.

hguerrero · Sep 27, 2009

what about using tractor type paint?

rhastings80 · Sep 27, 2009

hguerrero said:
what about using tractor type paint?

That's a good idea. I do remember seeing some Valspar Tractor & Implement Enamel at Fleet Farm. Think they also have some harder that you can add.

I also saw and am tempted by this but it so way expensive:
http://www.imperialrestoration.com/products.php?category=3

evintho · Sep 27, 2009

I just restored a Wilton and this is what I used. I'm very happy with the results!

From this....................................

To this.......................................

Here's the entire thread...................

Wilton vise restoration

Flash21 · Sep 28, 2009

evintho said:
I just restored a Wilton and this is what I used. I'm very happy with the results!

Do you brush that on? What kind of brush?

Thanks
Kevin

evintho · Sep 28, 2009

Yep you brush it on. I used a cheap 2" brush bought at the $1 store. I brushed on 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of color. Put it on thick and let it dry 24 hours between each coat, including primer. After final coat it takes 3-4 days to really harden but once it does, it's very durable!

airdale · Sep 28, 2009

One tough spray paint I've used (on wheels) is called Steel Wheels, it's a silver-gray color. At McMaster-Carr they sell a polyurethane spray paint with stainless steel in it. On the same page they sell quarts (solvent based). 2-part epoxies are tough, but a lot will be wasted unless you can measure out ratios carefully. Also on the same page they have one listed as fast drying water bourne, that works surprisingly well (made by Burke Coatings) again with stainless steel. Another idea for a working vise is galvanizing spray. They tend to be softer than most paint, but protect from rust and are easy to touch-up. The ones called cold galvanizing are dull gray. Bright galvanizing are shiny silver metallic but some are more prone to particles rubbing off. Frankly, a lot of them I have not been happy with regarding rub resistance. Currently trying out Crown's Galva Bright and it seems to hold the most promise. It's color is like a satin chrome.

Vinko · Sep 28, 2009

I noticed the little can (next to the rusty metal primer) is called lettering enamel. Presumably, for lettering

. But is this name just a gimmick, or is there something about this enamel that you like for raised lettering?

scottg1952 · Sep 28, 2009

Any industrial type alkyd enamel is about the best you can hope for. If its inside and protected it will last a good long time.
I use never seize on the moving parts, where the sun don't shine.

yours Scott

Flash21 · Sep 28, 2009

scottg1952 said:

Whoa, that is a big vise.

scottg1952 · Sep 28, 2009

Wull its just a little 'ol 6", opens to 10 or 11
Can't weigh much more'n 150 pounds, poor little thing

S

nissan_crawler · Sep 28, 2009

we managed to break a 10" one, oops. I think dad had a tear or two.

Flash21 · Sep 28, 2009

vinko said:
...but is this name just a gimmick, or is there something about this enamel that you like for raised lettering?

rhastings80 · Sep 28, 2009

Well thanks everyone.

I orderd some RustSeal by KBS Coatings in Oxide Red from:
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-RustSeal_p_18.html

I will take pictures when its all done and post back here.

cruiser808 · Sep 28, 2009

nissan_crawler said:
we managed to break a 10" one, oops. I think dad had a tear or two.

Nissan - please tell us the story, it's got to be a good one. :bowdown:

evintho · Sep 28, 2009

Vinko said:
I noticed the little can (next to the rusty metal primer) is called lettering enamel. Presumably, for lettering . But is this name just a gimmick, or is there something about this enamel that you like for raised lettering?

No gimmick. One-Shot is what the pros use for pinstriping hot rods. I used it to highlight the Turbo Coupe letters on my TC. It's top quality stuff, surprisingly inexpensive and is perfect for the raised lettering on the vise!

rhastings80 · Oct 7, 2009

Well I finally got around to painting this. Had to wait for a warm day. Here is what it looks like after the first coat. I will probably due 3 coats. I will also post pictures when I have it all assembled.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pa98_QbgDogTUUaZ9fBD3w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gyA2MJjiLlg/Ss0AFRYPGPI/AAAAAAAAAJE/F1_297wWmU0/s144/IMG_4228.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.4324/Vise?feat=embedwebsite">Vise</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MEdxJhfkpr2oiGHd_I-41w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gyA2MJjiLlg/Ss0AFhFkQUI/AAAAAAAAAJI/6rBaQ_q8z6g/s144/IMG_4229.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.4324/Vise?feat=embedwebsite">Vise</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DofY3teCuVBRP1Wn85ZbWg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gyA2MJjiLlg/Ss0AGPiyXWI/AAAAAAAAAJM/qHPZUR8tIFI/s288/IMG_4230.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.4324/Vise?feat=embedwebsite">Vise</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/H5dPz5mZVfUeOgyeWEK8fw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gyA2MJjiLlg/Ss0AGbbzA3I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/3AngXd5wnOE/s288/IMG_4231.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.4324/Vise?feat=embedwebsite">Vise</a></td></tr></table>

evintho · Oct 7, 2009

Nice job! Looks good! When you reassemble it fill a large cup with 90 weight gear oil and dunk the moveable jaw slide in it. Also, grease the spindle worm gear threads liberally with general purpose grease and you'll be good to go!

bmwpower · Oct 7, 2009

nissan_crawler said:
we managed to break a 10" one, oops. I think dad had a tear or two.

10" what? Wilton?

scooby074 · Oct 7, 2009

A little late, but for refinishing vises i like Rustoleum Hammered finish.

I sandblast first then paint with a brush. A tough durable finish (i use my tools pretty hard). The Hammertone (hammered) finishes are much tougher than regular enamel in my experience.

Repainting Wilton Machinist Vise - Any Tips?

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