Need to shut water off for this? Packing nut

[Sh40674]

The spigot on my supply line in my basement is leaking at the top nut.... I've tightened it in the past with success but it's at the end of its life. Only way to shut water off to it is to have the city shut my water off... my question is if I shut it off on the spigot, is it possible somehow to take the top nut off without water shooting everywhere? Don't mind the mud, got carried away with the texture gun lol

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Yep, remove the packing nut and it is going to leak.

 

[jimindm]

It is likely it is also the lowest part of the water system.

You could try dry ice towards the meter. Once it freezes you should not have incoming water, but a lot of water already in the system.

I do not know of a way to shut that off and still be able to change it out.

 

[OccupantRJ]

If the incoming is the side with the ground clamp on it, you should be able to shut off the valve, drain down water in the system, and remove the packing nut to wrap the stem with packing cord. Screw the nut back on and the cord will compress to seal leakage.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

I would be curious to know if that old valve will stop the water flow to the inside of the OP's home...if he needs it too. ...

As a homeowner, I would want to know that tidbit, before I spent time repairing something as important as the homes main water shut off. Remember, the wife/GF may be the one home alone having to shut the valve off ....if a pipe or valve somewhere breaks. Not a good time to find out your main SO will not even hold. JMO

 

[Piper27]

If the incoming is the side with the ground clamp on it, you should be able to shut off the valve, drain down water in the system, and remove the packing nut to wrap the stem with packing cord. Screw the nut back on and the cord will compress to seal leakage.

Exactly!

 

[Alchymist]

+Have the city shut it off, change the valve - install a good quality 1/4 turn ball valve.

 

[Radix2]

I'm having a hard time believing that that is to supply valve to your house. It looks like a 90degree 1/2 in stop?

That size is good for a sink or something ....but a whole house ? You have any water pressure in there?

Is it bigger than it looks?

Replace with a full flow ball valve and you might like it.

 

[lazer50]

Have city shut off water. And replace with new ball valve!

 

[holdover]

you may be in luck. I looks like an old valve, where the actual valve with the fiber/rubber washer is attached beyond the threaded section of the stem. The top nut is just a collar that either compresses packing against the stem or uses an O ring to stop the stem from leaking. Bach when they were used you just turned it off, took the handle off, removed the top packing nut and either replaced the packing washer or placed an O ring. The actual screw that activates the valve is located below the second nut that is part of the two piece casting of the valve. If you have an old time hardware store where you live, take a PIC and bring it to them and ask if it isn't so. good luck , And if you do decide to replace it like has already been said use a good quality ball valve

 

[PoorOwner]

Looks like you have lots of space to work with to replace with ball valve. Look at the meter you should be able to find out if you can turn it off there or not. Sometimes needs an adjustable wrench or a meter key from Home Depot. That way you can take your time.


Is it copper?

 

[Sh40674]

Not sure if it's copper yet, not at home right now... coated in paint, mud, etc... and yes it's the main shutoff for the house. 3/4 pipe, small house. I figured since it's the 2 nut style instead of just 1 nut on top I could close it, remove the top nut as long as the stem doesn't move, replace the packing and put it back together and see if it works. I agree it could be the bottom of the valve and not the top backing, but last time it had a dribble I tightened the top smaller nut down and it fixed it.. makes me think the top packing is bad

 

[Sh40674]

The pipe is copper, at least on the out going side, as far as the valve not sure what it's made of

 

[tthornto]

Check and see if the valve closes without leaking first, if it does then I would have the water shut off and replace the valve. To check if the valve shuts all the way leave an upstairs sink on just a dribble, then go look at your water meter. There should be a little spinning thing get an idea of how fast it is spinning Then go close your main shutoff and check the meter again, if the spinning thingy is moving at all then water is still flowing and your shutoff valve needs replaced.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[tcianci]

you may be in luck. I looks like an old valve, where the actual valve with the fiber/rubber washer is attached beyond the threaded section of the stem. The top nut is just a collar that either compresses packing against the stem or uses an O ring to stop the stem from leaking. Bach when they were used you just turned it off, took the handle off, removed the top packing nut and either replaced the packing washer or placed an O ring. The actual screw that activates the valve is located below the second nut that is part of the two piece casting of the valve. If you have an old time hardware store where you live, take a PIC and bring it to them and ask if it isn't so. good luck , And if you do decide to replace it like has already been said use a good quality ball valve

This is the only correct or useful answer in this entire thread. The rest of you can file to the right and pick up your degrees as this weeks' graduating class of armchair plumbers. No one here but Holdover even has a clue as to how that valve really works and what to do to fix it or in the simplest terms answer the OP's question.

Thanks to everyone for continuing to contribute to what is termed as the "technically bankrupt" garage journal.

 

[pcmeiners]

Added packing a number of times, most of the time I just wrap a good bit of Teflon tape around the stem, then just screw the nut back on. Used a cord like packing made from Teflon a couple times, but tape works just as well.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Someone on here made a good tip to actually get the water company to shut the water off if you're ever unsure about whether the water main valve is frozen shut. I'd imagine that would be a terrible experience otherwise.

no,no,no. Read post #15. All posts previous to 14 and post 15 are pure dumbassery.

 

[OccupantRJ]

This is the only correct or useful answer in this entire thread. The rest of you can file to the right and pick up your degrees as this weeks' graduating class of armchair plumbers. No one here but Holdover even has a clue as to how that valve really works and what to do to fix it or in the simplest terms answer the OP's question.

Thanks to everyone for continuing to contribute to what is termed as the "technically bankrupt" garage journal.

Your head must be hurting after all that demeaning of other people.

 

[DaveIRL]

why isnt there an inch philmac lever stopvalve outside the property. get a screw driver remove the cover stick your hand the whole and turn the valve. simples or evan
http://images.younghouselove.com/2013/07/Faucet-5-Water-Meter-Shut-Off.jpg

 

[tcianci]

Your head must be hurting after all that demeaning of other people.

First of all forgive me for not including you in the folks who got it right.

Second, I stand by my statement that this place is technically bankrupt and despite perception that a lot of folks have that this place has somehow cornered the market on good advice for the care and feeding of buildings, automobiles and the like, I'll go back to a question I have asked more than once in my musings; What if you were actually responsible for the advice you gave here?

Maybe there plenty of members who read some of the absurd stuff here, chuckle and move to the next thread. Me, I think about it as if the OP was actually going to try some of the stupid stuff suggested by guys who, by their very response illustrate that they have neither fully read or comprehended the original post, but instead jump at the chance to spout off about something they know nothing about.

Honestly, I wonder how some here actually even make it through everyday life and keep a job.

Harsh, yeah, far from accurate, I doubt it. If you think it's demeaning to point out that a lot of the "experts" are just flapping their gums and possibly setting the OP up for further problems or unnecessary expense, that's an opinion you're entitled to.

 

[kaffine]

First of all forgive me for not including you in the folks who got it right.

Second, I stand by my statement that this place is technically bankrupt and despite perception that a lot of folks have that this place has somehow cornered the market on good advice for the care and feeding of buildings, automobiles and the like, I'll go back to a question I have asked more than once in my musings; What if you were actually responsible for the advice you gave here?

Maybe there plenty of members who read some of the absurd stuff here, chuckle and move to the next thread. Me, I think about it as if the OP was actually going to try some of the stupid stuff suggested by guys who, by their very response illustrate that they have neither fully read or comprehended the original post, but instead jump at the chance to spout off about something they know nothing about.

Honestly, I wonder how some here actually even make it through everyday life and keep a job.

Harsh, yeah, far from accurate, I doubt it. If you think it's demeaning to point out that a lot of the "experts" are just flapping their gums and possibly setting the OP up for further problems or unnecessary expense, that's an opinion you're entitled to.

Can the packing on that valve be replaced? Sure. Is that how I would fix it if it was my house? No. I would give the advice for how I would fix it if it was my house which would be to replace the valve with a 1/4 turn ball valve. I have had to many times where a valve such as that doesn't seal fully when needed so if it is my main shutoff valve I would replace it.

If I was a plumber and got called to repair that valve I would present both options to the home owner. If I was a plumber at a facility that had this I wouldn't give my boss the option I would just change it for a 1/4 turn ball valve. If the boss doesn't like my way of repair he can fire me.

 

[C_F]

First of all forgive me for not including you in the folks who got it right.

Second, I stand by my statement that this place is technically bankrupt and despite perception that a lot of folks have that this place has somehow cornered the market on good advice for the care and feeding of buildings, automobiles and the like, I'll go back to a question I have asked more than once in my musings; What if you were actually responsible for the advice you gave here?

Maybe there plenty of members who read some of the absurd stuff here, chuckle and move to the next thread. Me, I think about it as if the OP was actually going to try some of the stupid stuff suggested by guys who, by their very response illustrate that they have neither fully read or comprehended the original post, but instead jump at the chance to spout off about something they know nothing about.

Honestly, I wonder how some here actually even make it through everyday life and keep a job.

Harsh, yeah, far from accurate, I doubt it. If you think it's demeaning to point out that a lot of the "experts" are just flapping their gums and possibly setting the OP up for further problems or unnecessary expense, that's an opinion you're entitled to.

Class, pay attention. This is what narcissism looks like.

 

[kbs2244]

That valve looks to be before the meter.
If so, laser50 nailed it.
That would make it the cities responsibility.
Call them.
Expect to get a new meter as well.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

That valve looks to be before the meter.
If so, laser50 nailed it.
That would make it the cities responsibility.
Call them.
Expect to get a new meter as well.

Oh my, KBS.... you are adding fuel to the fire started in post 15.

 

[P Dubya]

This is the only correct or useful answer in this entire thread. The rest of you can file to the right and pick up your degrees as this weeks' graduating class of armchair plumbers. No one here but Holdover even has a clue as to how that valve really works and what to do to fix it or in the simplest terms answer the OP's question.

Thanks to everyone for continuing to contribute to what is termed as the "technically bankrupt" garage journal.

Wow.... Been a few days since I stopped in to look around here. Water stuff intrigues me so this was the first post I opened tonight. Looks like I better keep my opinion and several possible ways to go about fixing the problem to myself.... Sorry guys.
P Dubya - State of Iowa Master Plumbers License #13120

 

[oldberkeley]

I haven't posted here in months (have found it a great source for advice!) and today realized that my main water shut-off valve is leaking! I'm about to post my question and see this thread!

Dubya, please do give your solutions.

 

[pcmeiners]

Have to admit tcianci's is right, I am surprised no one has suggested changing the entire line to the street. The OP asked a simple repair remedy, and if he listens to all suggestions, he will be purchasing dry ice, he will be ripping out a brass valve and replacing it.....damn it is only a leak around a f**king valve stem which can be remedied in less then 5 minutes, with or without the valve being turned off, no need to make it a magillah.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Can you repack it as holdover described? Probably. Why bother? Old gate valves are iffy at best. I can't count the number of old valves I've replaced/dressed seats on and/or repacked packing nuts just to have the stem snap off the next time someone actually had to use the valve. When my gate valve in my house stared to make funny noises when I needed to **** down my water, I had the city close my curb box, I cut the old gate valve out & replaced it with a good ball valve. Done for life.

Tommy

 

[OccupantRJ]

Can you repack it as holdover described? Probably. Why bother? Old gate valves are iffy at best. I can't count the number of old valves I've replaced/dressed seats on and/or repacked packing nuts just to have the stem snap off the next time someone actually had to use the valve. When my gate valve in my house stared to make funny noises when I needed to **** down my water, I had the city close my curb box, I cut the old gate valve out & replaced it with a good ball valve. Done for life.

Tommy

How often do you **** down your water?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

you may be in luck. I looks like an old valve, where the actual valve with the fiber/rubber washer is attached beyond the threaded section of the stem. The top nut is just a collar that either compresses packing against the stem or uses an O ring to stop the stem from leaking. Bach when they were used you just turned it off, took the handle off, removed the top packing nut and either replaced the packing washer or placed an O ring. The actual screw that activates the valve is located below the second nut that is part of the two piece casting of the valve. If you have an old time hardware store where you live, take a PIC and bring it to them and ask if it isn't so. good luck , And if you do decide to replace it like has already been said use a good quality ball valve

How often do you **** down your water?

Damn my eyes...

Tommy

 

[Alchymist]

This is the only correct or useful answer in this entire thread. The rest of you can file to the right and pick up your degrees as this weeks' graduating class of armchair plumbers. No one here but Holdover even has a clue as to how that valve really works and what to do to fix it or in the simplest terms answer the OP's question.

Thanks to everyone for continuing to contribute to what is termed as the "technically bankrupt" garage journal.

You forgot to preface your comments with ..."in my opinion".....

 

[csp]

Me, I think about it as if the OP was actually going to try some of the stupid stuff suggested by guys who, by their very response illustrate that they have neither fully read or comprehended the original post, but instead jump at the chance to spout off about something they know nothing about.

And yet there are plenty who understand that a direct answer to the original question isn't the solution that is in the OPs best interest. You make it sound like replacing the gate valve with a ball valve is a Bugatti solution to a Toyota problem. It isn't going to break the bank.

Ever had a gate valve that wouldn't close? Not a problem you want where there's a leak downstream of the main shut off.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

"...When my gate valve in my house stared to make funny noises when I needed to **** down my water..."

I'm jealous, such activity is unlawful in the state of Indiana.

PS.: Sorry Tommy, I have bad eyes too.

 

[MrBalll]

Hope you got this fixed.
Threads like this make me happy I can shut the water to my house off on my own without having to wait on the city to come out.

 

[Sh40674]

First of all thank you very much for all the answers, and I do agree that I THINK I can pull the top nut off without leaking and long as the bottom section of the valve doesn't leak. it appears built that way. Still haven't had time to mess with it. As far as possibly giving me incorrect advice I'm not worried, I always plan on getting wet just in case hahaha.

I do have a question and it'd probably because I've never dealt with plumbing parts like this... why do I need a key to remove the large nut on the left side if I decide to replace it? Can't I just use a wrench?

 

[tcianci]

Have to admit tcianci's is right, I am surprised no one has suggested changing the entire line to the street. The OP asked a simple repair remedy, and if he listens to all suggestions, he will be purchasing dry ice, he will be ripping out a brass valve and replacing it.....damn it is only a leak around a f**king valve stem which can be remedied in less then 5 minutes, with or without the valve being turned off, no need to make it a magillah.

This, gentlemen, is where I'm coming from. The man asked a simple question and all but a precious few actually read and understood it and fewer than them even knew what to do about it. The rest are indeed armchair plumbers, mechanics, carpenters or whatever hat they think they should be wearing today.

And as long as we're throwing around credentials:

Commonwealth of MA, unrestricted construction supervisors license CS-044337
Commonwealth of MA registered home improvement contractor registration 103463
In the trades for over 40 years now and spent a good portion of that working as a remodeler affiliated with a very successful local plumbing/heating/gas fitting company.
And I can read and comprehend questions and answer in a fashion that will lead to the resolution of rather than the creation of a problem.

Sorry guys, this ain't my first rodeo.

And, possibly further beating the dead horse, It's highly unlikely that the behaviors exhibited here would do any of you good in your day jobs unless misunderstanding simple questions and then digging yourselves into deeper **** by defending your ineptitude is a highly valued skill in todays workplace.

 

[P Dubya]

In answer to the OP and oldberkely... Yes it can be done. To avoid any real tragedy that might happen I would be sure that the curb valve is in operating condition before doing anything in the house. If anything goes bad you're only a 1/4 turn away from shutting the water supply into the house off... If the valve seat and washer are in good condition shut the valve off, take off the red handle and take the packing nut off the stem. Wrap a few wraps of packing material on stem, put it all together and check for leaks.... Depending on age of the valve I would consider replacing it.

If the curb valve does not operate and you still want or need to change out the valve it looks like you're in luck. The supply that is coming up out of the floor looks to be 3/4'' copper. There is a tool made to crimp the copper under pressure to stop the water flow. While the line is crimped you can change out your valve and then use the same tool to un-crimp the line. Hope this has been of some use to you folks....

Up above someone mentioned that this valve would be the municipality responsibility. Maybe so in your area but in every city I have worked the city responsibility ends at the main, both water and sewer. Service saddle, corp valve, service line, curb valve/box are always the homeowner responsibility. Give this some thought.... The leaking valve in your house decides to let loose while you are gone for the weekend.... Ruins the floors and some furniture. I know of no where that that is the cities responsibility and no city attorney would let it be.

 

[The Cobbler]

Put all the know it all's, the ones that do know what they're talking about aside, if it was my house I would get the city to shut off the water ( actually, I have a water key so would do it myself) and change out the existing valve with a quarter turn full flow ball valve as others have already mentioned.

 

[Sh40674]

i'm going to try the packing cord... would love to replace the valve, seems impossible to find a 90 degree 3/4 x 3/4 valve like what i have in any type of box store.

so what's with the small section of pipe on the left side of the valve? One store i stopped at had just that section of pipe, and mentioned the sell the tool to remove and install it... what is so special about it, and why is a special tool and not a wrench needed?

 

[Sh40674]

would it be better to cut the pipe below the old valve, solder a male threaded coupling on, and just install a straight ball valve going vertically? i could then just use a 90 degree elbow on top of the valve to attach it to the meter?

kinda like this.. my machine is down at work so i can use the paint program haha