VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[Outlawmws]

Jim, I wonder if you could mod a pipe tee to replace the whole broken part?

to this ^^^

 

[Gannz]

Parts needed: 2x serrated pipe jaws just like this one...

Came from one of these...

Found this one that looks similar...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-5-in-Multi-Purpose-Rotating-Pipe-and-Bench-Vise-with-Swivel-Base-BV-MPV5/205023076

But they don't have the serrated jaws available as replacement parts. Just the smooth top jaws.

Closest I can find is this...

https://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Pipe-Jaw-41HP35?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/41HP35_AS01?$smthumb$

And this. Probably larger...

https://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Pipe-Jaw-41HP36?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/41HP35_AS01?$smthumb$

Won't fit as is but I can cut it into the two pieces I need. Anyone at least know where I can find one of the double jaws cheaper? Grainger charges a lot more than anyone else.

 

[Outlawmws]

Try HF its a chicom/Asian vise anyway.

 

[david ELDER]

4 inch jaw vice is about 45lbs and opens 5 5/8 inch. sorry slow reply buzzy cleaning out oldmans house and buildings . wow

 

[schor]

My FIL passed a few months ago and I was tasked with cleaning up all his tools and I found this.

It would not budge, but I was able to get everything except the jaws apart. Not much rust if any on the screw and sleeve.

So I got some evaporust and did my best to soak it. That is the vise in a bag and wrapped as best I could.

So next step is release-all it every hour.

I have tried to use a mallet and brass punch to punch it out but no luck so far. I will bolt it down to the bench next time I try to drive it out.

The vise was tight together and I did manage to move it about 1/16 of an inch but it wont really budge in either direction last time I tried.

Always open to suggestions from the forums, you guys collectively probably have the most experience in the world on vises.

 

[jimreed2160]

I just picked up this little vise that was made in Denmark. It is in great shape except for one little detail--the captive leadscrew nut was liberated.

It works OK without the fixture but the dovetail is really loose. Makes one appreciate Reeds, Parkers, and their most excellent cousins of the same period. Any ideas for a repair?

 

[drivesitfar]

JIM: pretty sure you won't be able to fix that vice with some of your AWESOME Woodworking skills. do you weld? some of the old Record and Paramo vices that your Denmark vice was a copy of looks like had their vice nuts made in the casting process.

if you don't weld is there a possibility of drilling through the base a couple holes to tap some threads in and then put some holes in the bottom of the vice nut with threads to hold the vice nut in place with screws? not sure i'm describing it correctly so ask questions or maybe another member has a better idea or fix.

i like those old European vices and other than the broken vice nut it looks to be in pretty decent shape.

cheers

Schor: i heard on the other thread you got your vise apart with evaporust and not hammering or in a press so WELL DONE. any other questions?

 

[schor]

Got this about 3/16" open at the jaws now, lots of releaseall and just pounding it with a 2-1/2lb mallet and a brass driver with it bolted to the bench.

What type of clearance do these have when new? I am going to have to clean up the inside bore, wonder if I can mount it on my lathe somehow.

 

[Provincial]

Polish the rust off the slide with sandpaper strips (they come in rolls with cloth backing) looped over the tube and pulled back and forth shoeshine style. Polish the bore with a cylinder hone or "flapper wheel" on a drill. The grit should be no coarser than 120, with much finer for finish. Don't take off base material, if you can avoid it.

 

[Shiftless]

schor:
I too faced a stuck Wilton bullet earlier this year. I posted about my struggles back in April on this thread. This worked for me...
I first soaked it with Kroil as well as a mixture of ATF and acetone.

Pounding on it doesn't sound like a good idea. Uneven stresses might do irreversible damage.
Also, I don't think a cylinder bore is the way to go for cleaning up the inside of the bore. There is a large precision milled groove (keyway) on the bottom that accepts the key at the bottom of the slide. That would get deformed quickly if it got hit with honing stones.

Here is a shot of my crude but effective apparatus at work.
That is a 4 inch Wilton bullet on the operating table and a 24 inch breaker bar.
The 3/4 inch threaded rod has a nut and heavy washer sized to barely fit inside the tubular body and bear on the back of the slide.
That is a chunk of 4x6 secured to a 2x12 with 8 four inch hardened screws.

 

[Shiftless]

Here is a view of the other end. (Sorry it is sideways)
If I remember correctly the stack of washers includes a one inch washer to fit over the slide and a 3/4 inch washer to fit nicely over the 3/4 inch threaded rod I used to make a "puller".

 

[schor]

schor:
I too faced a stuck Wilton bullet earlier this year. I posted about my struggles back in April on this thread. This worked for me...
I first soaked it with Kroil as well as a mixture of ATF and acetone.

Pounding on it doesn't sound like a good idea. Uneven stresses might do irreversible damage.
Also, I don't think a cylinder bore is the way to go for cleaning up the inside of the bore. There is a large precision milled groove (keyway) on the bottom that accepts the key at the bottom of the slide. That would get deformed quickly if it got hit with honing stones.

Here is a shot of my crude but effective apparatus at work.
That is a 4 inch Wilton bullet on the operating table and a 24 inch breaker bar.
The 3/4 inch threaded rod has a nut and heavy washer sized to barely fit inside the tubular body and bear on the back of the slide.
That is a chunk of 4x6 secured to a 2x12 with 8 four inch hardened screws.

Pounding with a brass drive punch shouldn't be a problem. But that's a cool idea, I will consider it. I have a lathe to make some parts for the "press" Thanks.

 

[Shiftless]

You're welcome!

I made my rig using hardware store parts and scrap lumber only.
With a lathe, I would consider making a cylindrical plug out of aluminum or ??? just a bit smaller than the bore to fit in against the end of the slide. Then you could pound against that and the force would be evenly distributed.
Heat might be a good idea too. I heated mine with a propane torch and a heat gun at the same time while cranking away with a 24 inch breaker bar.
Seafoam brand penetrant seems to hold up best to heat. Watch out for fire hazard. I worked outdoors for that part.
Many GJers thought that mine would break free and slide out fairly easily once it broke loose. Didn't happen that way. It fought me all the way to the last inch.

 

[schor]

I've got some ideas on what to do. Will try to press it out similar to what you did. Maybe use my other vise to do it or the 3/4" allthread I have.

 

[Shiftless]

Excellent!
I hope the 3/4 inch allthread "puller" tool works for you as well as it worked for me. I figure you are getting about 1000 to one mechanical advantage so if you yank on the end of your 24 inch breaker bar with 50 pounds pull, you are exerting maybe 50,000 pounds of force to move that slide.
But then again there is friction loss. ...???

Please keep us posted.

 

[AmericanMechanic]

Got this about 3/16" open at the jaws now, lots of releaseall and just pounding it with a 2-1/2lb mallet and a brass driver with it bolted to the bench.

What type of clearance do these have when new? I am going to have to clean up the inside bore, wonder if I can mount it on my lathe somehow.

You might try closing the jaws back together. Work them back and forth a couple times and as you get it to open further. Similar to backing a tap up a bit to clean out the teeth. Nice vise.

 

[Shiftless]

A.M.:
Good idea as long as the movements back and forth don't require too much force.
Those bullet vises are quite strong in the closing direction but in the opening direction, the only thing holding it together are the 3 rather small machine screws that attach the front collar to the dynamic jaw. I don't think using the main screw to force the jaws apart on a Wilton machinist vise is a good move.
(Your results may vary...)

 

[jimreed2160]

Well I had a good week working on my Prentiss swivel jaw #18. The static jaw was MIA but the screws were not. Actually just the screw posts were there and they had been mushroomed against the jaw casting. I spent last week drilling them out with a carbide bit in the milling machine. Then I picked the threads with an awl and finally chased the threads. Whew! I spent hours on that little guy but was rewarded with success in the end.

The dynamic screws were a different story. The slots were worn smooth by being repeatedly forced into workpieces as well as the opposite studs. I used WD40 liberally for days and then got after them with the dremel.

To my surprise they gave it up quickly. I was even able to salvage the old jaw. Then I chased 80-90 years of rust and crud from the threads.

And then I was able to test fit the jaws I got from Kevin. All it took was a little file work.

So this little guy is moving right along. After some BLO and paint, he will be ready to get back to work.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Jim, It looks like you have been bitten by the vise bug. I noticed you mentioned hand planes in your introduction and are a member of M-W TCA I just guessed and looked you up. I thought it would be a good place to find some old vises and tools.
You must be up to around ten or so vises now, your are quickly showing your addiction

 

[jimreed2160]

Jim, It looks like you have been bitten by the vise bug. I noticed you mentioned hand planes in your introduction and are a member of M-W TCA I just guessed and looked you up. I thought it would be a good place to find some old vises and tools.
You must be up to around ten or so vises now, your are quickly showing your addiction

First the woodplane bug bit and I spent many years rehabbing planes and making blades and cutters. So I had to trick out the woodshop with woodworking vises. And now comes the machinist vise thing. It is a whole new area of tool refurb. But they accumulate quickly and now number in the dozens.

It is really not a bad bug to have because many shop stab accidents result from holding a workpiece in one hand and a very sharp tool in the other. Having multiple vises mounted on all of the shop workbenches means there is no excuse for an errant stab.

 

[bulletpruf]

Well I had a good week working on my Prentiss swivel jaw #18. The static jaw was MIA but the screws were not. Actually just the screw posts were there and they had been mushroomed against the jaw casting. I spent last week drilling them out with a carbide bit in the milling machine. Then I picked the threads with an awl and finally chased the threads. Whew! I spent hours on that little guy but was rewarded with success in the end.

The dynamic screws were a different story. The slots were worn smooth by being repeatedly forced into workpieces as well as the opposite studs. I used WD40 liberally for days and then got after them with the dremel.

To my surprise they gave it up quickly. I was even able to salvage the old jaw. Then I chased 80-90 years of rust and crud from the threads.

And then I was able to test fit the jaws I got from Kevin. All it took was a little file work.

So this little guy is moving right along. After some BLO and paint, he will be ready to get back to work.

Nice work! Did the same thing a few weeks ago on a Paramo that was pretty clean. Couldn't get the screws to move with an impact screwdriver, so I ended up drilling completely through the screws with a LH drill bit. Then just filled the hole with Kroil and used a chisel to get them turning.

Try Kroil next time; it's much better than WD40 or PB Blaster. Or a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

 

[jrobb316]

To remove the jaw screws from my Reed 4C I torched off the heads and then unscrewed the studs. Nevermind the other dangerous stuff in the pic when playing with fire...

 

[bulletpruf]

Nice work! Did the same thing a few weeks ago on a Paramo that was pretty clean. Couldn't get the screws to move with an impact screwdriver, so I ended up drilling completely through the screws with a LH drill bit. Then just filled the hole with Kroil and used a chisel to get them turning.

Try Kroil next time; it's much better than WD40 or PB Blaster. Or a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

And here's what I ended up with. Two screws came out without too much trouble. The other two I drilled completely through with a left-handed drill bit. Can't believe they didn't back out on their own. Then I sprayed Kroil in the holes and let it sit for a bit. Chiseled out afterwards.



Anyone have an idea of what size and thread pitch I would need to replace these?

 

[schor]

A.M.:
Good idea as long as the movements back and forth don't require too much force.
Those bullet vises are quite strong in the closing direction but in the opening direction, the only thing holding it together are the 3 rather small machine screws that attach the front collar to the dynamic jaw. I don't think using the main screw to force the jaws apart on a Wilton machinist vise is a good move.
(Your results may vary...)

I am not using the screw but I might adapt something with it. Right now I am just trying to force it out with hammer blows on a brass punch. Will try to get some screw force on it next time I get into the shop.

 

[schor]

You might try closing the jaws back together. Work them back and forth a couple times and as you get it to open further. Similar to backing a tap up a bit to clean out the teeth. Nice vise.

Trying that too.

 

[454ragtop]

A little trick I use to get the jaw insert screws out is to use a ratcheting right angle screwdriver before disassembling the vise. I lightly clamp the screwdriver in the screw between the 2 jaws. This way the bit can't "cam" out of the screw. As the screw starts to come out, gradually open the vise, working the vise handle and the screwdriver at the same time. Have removed many mangled screws with this method.
HTH, Jim

 

[bulletpruf]

A little trick I use to get the jaw insert screws out is to use a ratcheting right angle screwdriver before disassembling the vise. I lightly clamp the screwdriver in the screw between the 2 jaws. This way the bit can't "cam" out of the screw. As the screw starts to come out, gradually open the vise, working the vise handle and the screwdriver at the same time. Have removed many mangled screws with this method.
HTH, Jim

Didn't think of that. I'll try it next time.

Thanks

Scott

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Here is how I have done some of them.

 

[HCNDM]

The right angle bit tips are golden! I have a record no.4 (original UK) that I am supposed to do for my dad but have been putting off due to stuck Jaws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[trents99]

Looking for a little advice on a repair, thanks in advance. I was given a WWII era Reed 2C. I have everything apart and have begun the electrolosys process. While tearing it down though I found the spanner nut that holds the screw/handle assembly was split in two. It was not tight at all and just a few light taps with a punch had it removed.

What are my options for repair or replacement? I can tig weld it but assume I need to put it around the handle first as I see no way to tear the handle down which I assume is press fit together. The grooves on the inside of the nut where it broke is where I would prefer to weld it but that is only an option if I can get the handle apart.

 

[drivesitfar]

Trent: pretty sure the Reed 2c nut is supposed to be split. are the threads still ok and if you are able to tighten it then you are in business. I need new glasses so i can't tell if the split nut has any missing parts or poor threads so post up more pictures if you think so. otherwise i think you are still ok and can keep on restoring that amazing Reed 2c. also don't hesitate to post up lots of pictures of your 2c for all of us vise guys and gals to enjoy.

good luck

GET and 454: nice tips about getting the vise jaw screws out. if all else fails just get a little bitter bit than the screw threads and drill the heads off, pull off the jaws and use a vise grip to unscrew the studs.

 

[454ragtop]

Trent the nut is split at the factory on Reeds. If you think about it, how else would you get it past the bulb on the screw?

 

[bagged89s10]

Looking for a little advice on a repair, thanks in advance. I was given a WWII era Reed 2C. I have everything apart and have begun the electrolosys process. While tearing it down though I found the spanner nut that holds the screw/handle assembly was split in two. It was not tight at all and just a few light taps with a punch had it removed.



What are my options for repair or replacement? I can tig weld it but assume I need to put it around the handle first as I see no way to tear the handle down which I assume is press fit together. The grooves on the inside of the nut where it broke is where I would prefer to weld it but that is only an option if I can get the handle apart.

454 is right. That's how the nut is supposed to be. You will be able to thread it back on, then the set screw on the side will keep it in the position you need.

 

[trents99]

Trent the nut is split at the factory on Reeds. If you think about it, how else would you get it past the bulb on the screw?

Thank you. It makes sense but I just wanted to be sure since it was a break instead of having been cut.

pretty sure the Reed 2c nut is supposed to be split. are the threads still ok and if you are able to tighten it then you are in business. I need new glasses so i can't tell if the split nut has any missing parts or poor threads so post up more pictures if you think so. otherwise i think you are still ok and can keep on restoring that amazing Reed 2c. also don't hesitate to post up lots of pictures of your 2c for all of us vise guys and gals to enjoy.

The treads are in excellent shape as is the entire vise. I haven't decided on a direction for a finish. At the moment I am leaning towards the advice you gave me when I originally posted in the other vise thread about using the linseed oil.

I'll have plenty of pictures to share once it is complete.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I am working on my Parker 978 and am torn between fixing the casting flaw on the jaw tower or not. It doesn't effect the jaw attachment or strength of it in my opinion. It looks like the mold was off a little when it was poured leaving half of it lower than the other. I would build the jaw stop up with epoxy putty and smooth the center seam a little.
Opinions on fix it or leave it as the factory did ? Thank's

 

[454ragtop]

I think I'd knock it down with a grinder as best as you can without getting carried away and call it done. They are castings after all, not supposed to be perfect.

 

[drivesitfar]

Get: if you knock down the one side that is higher then your jaws would be a little higher so you'd have to sand/grind them down too. i like a really flush look , but that isn't a vise you see everyday as you well know.

i'd say with all your experience just let it sit for a bit, think about WWGD (what would get do), then get back at it and i'm sure your choice will be the best.

good luck

 

[thehorse13]

I like casting imperfections and other scars that tell the story of the vise's life. I leave them on intentionally with all of my restorations unless it impacts usability.

 

[KMScott]

I am working on my Parker 978 and am torn between fixing the casting flaw on the jaw tower or not. It doesn't effect the jaw attachment or strength of it in my opinion. It looks like the mold was off a little when it was poured leaving half of it lower than the other. I would build the jaw stop up with epoxy putty and smooth the center seam a little.
Opinions on fix it or leave it as the factory did ? Thank's

It really comes down to how you want it to look when finished GET. I have run across issues like that and my opinion is if you decide to make the casting even then both sides should match. I had a couple American Scale vises that were very rough but still tight. So I decide to add material to where the casting was dinged and ground on. It is a tuff decision but in my opinion I would not use the epoxy mixes. Knowing how to weld castings the correct way makes my decision a little easier. Being a 8" vise makes it a tuff decision. Pulling 3/32 of casting off will not effect the strength. There should be a 1/8+ of ledge to support the jaws and that is plenty. Look forward to seeing your finished vise.

Dang, it is snowing today. I am wrapping up a Parker today and may not be able to take pics to share on the vise thread.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I will work on the slide and think about it some more.