USA Husky Torque Wrench

[Dynasty]

Today I found a "Made in USA" Husky torque wrench at my local Home Depot. The specific torque wrench is the 1/2" model (Husky 564464). It is advertised as a 50-250 ft lbs rating, but the settings on the tool range from 25-250 ft lbs. The factory calibration appears really accurate and consistent with a test date of May 2013.

I paid $91 for it. This is my first torque wrench. I am a hobbyist and DIY my own vehicles. It will only be used less than a dozen times per year.

It's still sitting in the box, unopened. Is this tool a keeper? Or will I be better off using a Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2" torque wrench and save myself $70?

 

[80mirada]

It is a Gearwrench/KD, they are good quality. They were discontinued for a China import recently. I would keep it and use it, they were an excellent bargain when they were regular items at Home Depot

 

[PJNJ]

I have one of those. Bought it a few years ago. It seems to be well made and I have used it a few times with no problems. As I recollect, they got good reviews. I'd keep it if I were you.

 

[jdlong]

Keep it. HF uses major el cheapo spring alloy and the wrench goes out of calibration quickly.

 

[d4dawg]

The US made Husky torque wrenches are the same as the more expensive GearWrench ones and also the same as the even more expensive ($200+) Matco ones. Can't say about the accuracy, but definitely more well build than the HF torque wrenches.

 

[blown94conv]

I have what is probably the same torque wrench, bought a few years ago and check the calibration every now and then, and it's been spot in. I'd keep it without question.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

KEEP IT. They are getting rarer and rarer to find. I've been using mine professionally for years now.

Rubber grip VS metal but otherwise the same as a Matco

Same torque wrench as Matco TRC250A and Armstrong 64-086.

 

[619DioFan]

Both my 1/2 and 3/8 inch torque wrenches are usa made Husky. very good quality IMO.

 

[jonti48310]

My Matco version just took a **** on me at work on Friday. Still works fine but I heard the mechanism in the handle bind and now the handle doesn't lock the torque spec into place. I have to hold the handle in place while I'm torquing down whatever it is I'm working on. Worse part is the torque wrench just passed the 1 year warranty mark in March of this year. I'm probably going to get rid of it and buy the precision instruments 1/2 and 3/8 drive torque wrenches. I can get both of those for just a little over what I bought the 1/2 Matco for when I used my student discount to buy it.

 

[kctyphoon]

Those have been floating around for awhile now in the stores.. The USA and Taiwan(I think ) versions are slightly different I believe.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Yes keep it. Bought mine a few years ago for $75. Been happy w it.

 

[lazer50]

You got a very good deal! I paid 3 times that for my matco.but that was 15 or more years ago.

 

[6PTsocket]

The other guys gave you the correct info on the history of the wrench. They were made under a number of brand names with a plastic or metal handle by what is today KD, a brand of Apex. Concerning the range, clicker type wrenches are generally spec ed to be accurate from max, 250 in your case, to 20% of max, 50 on your wrench. Some wrenches, like yours, go lower, but the spring is so slack at that point that there is no claim of accuracy below 20%. The accuracy is plus or minus 3%. ALWAYS turn the setting down to zero when not using the wrench to maintain accuracy. Keep it clean and don't bang it around or use it for a ratchet and it sbould last a,long time. I have a smaller version of your Husky and it is a good wrench. The HF is garbage. You were lucky to find USA made one.

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[Super Sport]

I have the GW versions and really like them. The HF are a bargain at $10, but quality is a hit or miss - do you really want to take a chance with a torque wrench?

I bought my GW versions on a BOGO sale from an online vendor. They came with free socket sets. I figured I paid a little over $100 each for them. I recently came upon a Wright-branded CDI torque wrench and am having trouble deciding which to keep. Both seem like great quality.

 

[TM98]

Found answer.

 

[Banshee365]

I picked up this same torque wrench at HD last year as the Chinese clones started showing up on the shelves. It's a fantastic tool truck quality torque wrench.

Just be careful not to go much past the bottom torque setting when un-winding the wrench. If you bottom it out while twisting on it hard you can mess up the calibration.

 

[Dynasty]

Thanks for all the input. Looks like it will be staying with me for a long time.

 

[jonti48310]

Just a quick note. Directions from my Matco version say there's no need to turn it down if not being stored for a long period of time. I always ran it down to 25 ft/lb and locked the handle anyway just to keep some tension on it.

 

[6PTsocket]

Just a quick note. Directions from my Matco version say there's no need to turn it down if not being stored for a long period of time. I always ran it down to 25 ft/lb and locked the handle anyway just to keep some tension on it.

Not all clickers are made the same way. There is another type called a split beam. The can be identified by the fact that they only work clockwise, for tightening. They don't need to be slacked off at all. As for the other type, why check chances? It figures that the more you leave a spring compressed the more likely it will take a set and go out of calibration and I want to preserve the calibration as long as possible.

The other guys gave you the correct info on the history of the wrench. They were made under a number of brand names with a plastic or metal handle by what is today KD, a brand of Apex. Concerning the range, clicker type wrenches are generally spec ed to be accurate from max, 250 in your case, to 20% of max, 50 on your wrench. Some wrenches, like yours, go lower, but the spring is so slack at that point that there is no claim of accuracy below 20%. The accuracy is plus or minus 3%. ALWAYS turn the setting down to zero when not using the wrench to maintain accuracy. Keep it clean and don't bang it around or use it for a ratchet and it sbould last a,long time. I have a smaller version of your Husky and it is a good wrench. The HF is garbage. You were lucky to find USA made one.

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[anndel]

Keep it, I went to 2 HD's and all they have are made in china versions. You scored big time.

 

[jonti48310]

Not all clickers are made the same way. There is another type called a split beam. The can be identified by the fact that they only work clockwise, for tightening. They don't need to be slacked off at all. As for the other type, why check chances? It figures that the more you leave a spring compressed the more likely it will take a set and go out of calibration and I want to preserve the calibration as long as possible.




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I think you misunderstood me. The op's torque wrench in question is the same one I have (except mine is the re-branded Matco version), which works both clockwise and counterclockwise. It states that you don't have to take the slack off for storage unless it is being stored for a long period of time. That's what I found so interesting. But yes I'm well aware of the style you're referring to where they don't need to be turned down. the precision instruments is actually the torque wrench I'm going to go with this time around for both the 1/2 and 3/8. They have good reviews and can't be touched price wise. best part, made in 'Merica'! As for resetting this model in question, it seems everyone has their own opinion on what is the best practice for storing these style torque wrenches (either running it all the way down or going to the lowest torque setting). In fact, the Matco guy told me to run it down to 25 ft/lb and store it there while the Snap-On guy said to run it all the way down until it bottoms out. But that's a topic for another thread. Just thought it was interesting to see the instructions state you didn't need to run it down for storage if it wasn't being stored for a long period of time. Either way I don't think I'll ever go back to these style torque wrenches that lock with the handle. If I don't like the PI ones I'll switch to electronic and just deal with having to make sure it's not stored for too long with the batteries left in.

 

[6PTsocket]

I think you misunderstood me. The op's torque wrench in question is the same one I have (except mine is the re-branded Matco version), which works both clockwise and counterclockwise. It states that you don't have to take the slack off for storage unless it is being stored for a long period of time. That's what I found so interesting. But yes I'm well aware of the style you're referring to where they don't need to be turned down. the precision instruments is actually the torque wrench I'm going to go with this time around for both the 1/2 and 3/8. They have good reviews and can't be touched price wise. best part, made in 'Merica'! As for resetting this model in question, it seems everyone has their own opinion on what is the best practice for storing these style torque wrenches (either running it all the way down or going to the lowest torque setting). In fact, the Matco guy told me to run it down to 25 ft/lb and store it there while the Snap-On guy said to run it all the way down until it bottoms out. But that's a topic for another thread. Just thought it was interesting to see the instructions state you didn't need to run it down for storage if it wasn't being stored for a long period of time. Either way I don't think I'll ever go back to these style torque wrenches that lock with the handle. If I don't like the PI ones I'll switch to electronic and just deal with having to make sure it's not stored for too long with the batteries left in.

Just think what is going on inside. There is a spring and if you leave tension on it , it can take a set. A little bit of tension probably has little effect. If you go too far maybe something could come unthreaded. I go to zero and no further. These truck guys are not the World's foremost authority and are just repeating something they heard. My clickers have been working fine for years. It probably isn't enough to matter but the KD/SK/ATD/ Husky Apex wrench claims 3% and the Precision claims 4% accuracy. The electronic ones are nore accurate and I like the idea of using one of those adapter boxes as a calibration checker but I like the ruggedness and low maintenance of my mechanical wrenches and there are too many reviews of weird readings with the Chinese made electronic wrenches. They are more expensive and probably unserviceable, unlike a mechanical wrench.

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[ex-x-fire]

My Matco version just took a **** on me at work on Friday. Still works fine but I heard the mechanism in the handle bind and now the handle doesn't lock the torque spec into place. I have to hold the handle in place while I'm torquing down whatever it is I'm working on. Worse part is the torque wrench just passed the 1 year warranty mark in March of this year. I'm probably going to get rid of it and buy the precision instruments 1/2 and 3/8 drive torque wrenches. I can get both of those for just a little over what I bought the 1/2 Matco for when I used my student discount to buy it.

I had this happen to my Husky version. There's a flat spring (with a little arm) that likes to break. The broken part jams under the remaining spring. I couldn't find that part so I had Home Depot warranty it out, it was 3 years old & used daily.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Today I found a "Made in USA" Husky torque wrench at my local Home Depot. The specific torque wrench is the 1/2" model (Husky 564464). It is advertised as a 50-250 ft lbs rating, but the settings on the tool range from 25-250 ft lbs. The factory calibration appears really accurate and consistent with a test date of May 2013.

I paid $91 for it. This is my first torque wrench. I am a hobbyist and DIY my own vehicles. It will only be used less than a dozen times per year.

It's still sitting in the box, unopened. Is this tool a keeper? Or will I be better off using a Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2" torque wrench and save myself $70?

I use a HF 20% off coupon to by mine a Home Depot.

 

[TM98]

I use a HF 20% off coupon to by mine a Home Depot.

How are you able to do that?

 

[ex-x-fire]

I handed the out guy the coupon & said "can you match this?" He came back a few minutes later & said that he would. This is before we even had a local HF store. They're building one now.

 

[6PTsocket]

Are you you saying that Home Depot honored another store's 20 off coupon for a totally different product? HF sells their own house brands of junk they import fron China. Their torque wrenches sell for as little as 10 bucks. They sell nothing remotely as good as the Husky that was made by Danaher, now Apex. It is now made in Taiwan but they make decent tools. They are the makers of Gearwrench and KD.

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[nh_yota]

I bought one of those torque wrenches last year while I was replacing the wheel bearings on my truck. It's well made, but I never quite figured out why the alignment of the scale is off when the handle is set to zero. See my thread below - I never got a reply from anyone:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308274

 

[d4dawg]

Are you you saying that Home Depot honored another store's 20 off coupon for a totally different product? HF sells their own house brands of junk they import fron China. Their torque wrenches sell for as little as 10 bucks. They sell nothing remotely as good as the Husky that was made by Danaher, now Apex. It is now made in Taiwan but they make decent tools. They are the makers of Gearwrench and KD.

I have successfully used a HF coupon at Lowe's. It all depends on the cashier or manager who may or may not honor the coupon. The HF torque wrenches are also made in Taiwan (there were batches made in China). Evidently some people have their samples tested and shown to be very accurate, particularly the 1/2" one. IMO, if you are a homeowner who just wants to torque the wheel lugs, the HF 1/2" drive torque wrench represents an excellent value for $10 to $12 with a coupon.

 

[Adam.C]

My opinion is that these wrenches are obsolete. Almost everything I work on has angles specified. How will you do that? Or is this for lugs only?

Anymore, I'm reaching the same conclusion as the old timers. If your lugs aren't clean, mating surfaces aren't clean, everything isn't oiled properly, using a torque wrench doesn't do much or anything but make you feel like you did a good job.

The digital wrenches are nice in that you can get a sense for run down (prevailing) torque which will indicate if all your fasteners are equally prepared. You could even adjust the final torque setting to adjust for what the prevailing torque is. If this sounds too complicated, you should probably put away your torque wrench and not use it, just like the old timers do.

The reality is, torque wrenches are mini science projects. I say either embrace it or skip it altogether. Don't bother compare one clicker to another.

 

[6PTsocket]

My opinion is that these wrenches are obsolete. Almost everything I work on has angles specified. How will you do that? Or is this for lugs only?

Anymore, I'm reaching the same conclusion as the old timers. If your lugs aren't clean, mating surfaces aren't clean, everything isn't oiled properly, using a torque wrench doesn't do much or anything but make you feel like you did a good job.

The digital wrenches are nice in that you can get a sense for run down (prevailing) torque which will indicate if all your fasteners are equally prepared. You could even adjust the final torque setting to adjust for what the prevailing torque is. If this sounds too complicated, you should probably put away your torque wrench and not use it, just like the old timers do.

The reality is, torque wrenches are mini science projects. I say either embrace it or skip it altogether. Don't bother compare one clicker to another.

I strongly doubt whether many people hold your opinion. It sounds like you have been reading a lot of stuff and don't have a lot of hands on. My clickers have held up fine for years. The difference between them and an electronic is 1 or 2 % . The condition of the bolts can change the readings but not by as much as guessing. The acceptable range on lug nuts is large but the difference from one lug to another is not. You can warp the rotor if they don't match. For the newer spec you tighten to a certain torque and then use a simple degree wheel to add the specified number of degrees of rotation.

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[6PTsocket]

Matco is selling name brand stuff at rebranded Matco prices. There many here that can tell you who made it. Sending it out for repair to one of the on line places that fix them is not that expensive. Snap On wrenches are made by another division of their company, CDI. You can buy the same quality SnapOn wrench for a lot less with the CDI label on it.The Precision wrenches are supposed to be good. Eastwood is also selling them under their label. They click but they are not what you have. They are split beams and only work in one direction, whixh is no big deal. A nice thing is you don't have to lower the tension when you store them

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