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The One Piece at a Time Shop

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getblown5.9

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Took a break from working on the truck and went to the mountains for the weekend, my old man picked up a new toy to fill the garage. The pups seem to approve.

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getblown5.9

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Played with the new toy a bit tonight.

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getblown5.9

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Another busy day. Got the hitch mostly fabbed up. Need to lay quite a few welds tomorrow on the bench before welding in on the truck.

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getblown5.9

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I haven't done much on the truck recently with hunting season and some house project to prepare for the holidays.

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Before- golf themed wall paper. My pup Dodge modeling for you. This basement had been unused/storage since we moved in. Turning it into a mancave area with a rustic cabin theme.

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Stripping cleaning and planing pallet wood

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Partially complete. One more area of wood accent to do behind the fireplace/stove. Then hang all of my trophies and mounts along with other man cave decor.

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getblown5.9

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Finished up the pallet wood accents. Now its timw for molding and trim.

Before
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After
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C_F

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Just found your thread today, I like what you're doing with the pallet wood!:thumbup:

And I REALLY like your yard, house, shop...all of it! That's a great looking place you have there, thanks for showing it off.:beer: I'll be checking back in here to see your progress.
 

Reit38

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What did you use for the pallet wood for stain/seal

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getblown5.9

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Love the wood accents! Did you have the pallets laying around?
The pallets were sourced for free from a buddy who works construction and gets daily deliveries on pallets. I stripped 30 pallets and ended up with 254 finished boards. At the completion of the stove area I have about a dozen useable boards left.

I really wanted a darker weathered grey barnwood look, but barnwood around here goes for up to $3-7 a board ft. Crazy high because of the popularity of barnwood projects. I wasn't going to pay that price and then still have to work on them to plane then flat, true them up etc. For the cost/effort/result combination I am super happy with the pallet wood final product. Less than $100 in materials for stain, underlayment and dark paint to go behind the boards. And I bought a tool, a $250 planer which was a great investment. I will be making many small projects with all sorts of wood now.

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getblown5.9

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What did you use for the pallet wood for stain/seal

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The boards were planed on both sides to clean them up and remove the majority of any contaminants that were visible. They were stained with a combination of 3 colors, Early American, Red Oak, and Gunstock. No sealer.

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getblown5.9

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One more teaser shot. I will finish up the trim, and start getting all of my paraphernalia hung on the walls and post finished shots with furniture.

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Reit38

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Thanks. I've been think about doing this on one wall in my man cave.

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getblown5.9

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Thanks. I've been think about doing this on one wall in my man cave.

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Im super happy with it. Buy some 1/8" underlayment to screw up on the wall to your studs, paint it black or dark brown, then you can use a finish nailer to put the boards up and not worry about stud placement.

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Reit38

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Thanks for the heads up. Right now it's a block wall so I was gonna fir it out 1x's to try and save some space

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getblown5.9

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If you do that, just sheath it with thin plywood instead of drywall. I just wasnt ripping the drywall down to replace with plywood.

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Reit38

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Yup, you sold me with the deer head pic. That's what will be hung on mine.

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Pointbock

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looks good - both house and shop

IH rear? 6x7.25? Where did you get your wheels?
 
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getblown5.9

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Showing off some of the character found in this free pallet wood. The more I look at it the more I like it.

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This wide buck was taken in 2014 and these 3 skulls were all taken in 2016 on our property in WV.

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getblown5.9

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Its done! Now to let the wife go furniture shopping.

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getblown5.9

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Got back in the shop this weekend and made some progress. April will be here before I know it.

Mocked up the gauge panel so I can get the dash ready for paint
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Finished the hitch setup and last few braces.
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Dropped the rear out so I can finish weld everything and get the back half of the truck ready for paint.
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getblown5.9

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I can finally say the rear frame work welding is complete. Very happy with the final outcome and my welds now look much better. Next up is a fabricated transmission cross member, and some driveline shields and loops to protect spectators and track crew in the event of a failure.

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I am looking for suggestion on what to use to prime and paint the rear, and frame. I dont need undercoating protection as this will never see foul weather, just want a durable gloss paint finish. Something available at HD, Lowes, or TSC would be favorable.

I am considering doing the rear housing and frame in black and then using silver for the center section and driveline loops to give it some contrast underneath.

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GLTHFJ60

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The TSC equipment enamel is great stuff. If you want a bit of rust protection TSC used to sell cold galvanizing paint that I've had good experience with.
 
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getblown5.9

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Primer goes on tomorrow. The rear frame is truly done now. I kept thinking of ways I wanted to brace things. The last thing I want is to have something break and rip the hitch drawbar out. I am really enjoying the work on this project. I am 31 now and have not done a project of this magnitude with my father since I was 15 and we worked on his 66 and my 68 mustangs together but both were sold 10 years ago.

Cut this bracket with a Lotos 5000d plasma. Nice little unit and much better than torch cutting.

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getblown5.9

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Framework is primed. Oil based paint and garage at 72 degrees and its still not dry after 18 hours. Long process.

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Started some initial wiring and tested LED lights. One bulb was out but fixed it after the picture.

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getblown5.9

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Been chipping away at things. Finally got the rear half in paint. Very satisfied with the gloss black tractor paint from TSC. Rolled and brushed on the primer and paint and turned out very nice.

Been working on building a wiring panel and got it pretty much mocked up. Now its time to start pulling wires to front and rear and hook up factory head and tail lights again.

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C_F

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I really like how your pallet wood project turned out, it looks great! I'm going to have to borrow that idea one of these days. :)
 
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getblown5.9

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Busy weekend. Got the rear back in (what should have been a 1-2 hour job turned into an exhausting 5 hour ordeal). The next time I fab something like that I will make sure to use some sort of shims for clearance purposes. It involved hydraulic pressure, a cable come along and a 10lbs sledge hammer. I was beating on that thing so much I crushed/shattered 2 6x6 blocks of wood.

But after that ordeal was complete we moved on to the interior and got the floor coated in bedliner and the dash was filled and primered. Hope to make some better progress next week since I wont be waiting for paint to dry.

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getblown5.9

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Dash is painted. Will be another busy week as I reassamble the dash, gauges and electrical panel for the final time. Next step is to get the hand throttle base built and order the push pull cable for the throttle.

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getblown5.9

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awesome.

who knew you needed that many gauges and switches to go 300 ft. max.

I'd wire in a tach and call it a day.
With almost $25k in the motor I want to be able to see the oil pressure and engine temp. If i ever take another atep and build and bigger badder motor I will go to a data logger and digital dash.

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onemanarmy

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I guess that's true.

was just thinking that with a cracked out diesel running at 5k RPM and 60 psi of boost, once you saw no oil pressure, the damage would be done before you could shut it down.

but you are correct, more data is always better.
 

CastleBravo

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Lynchburg, Virginia
I just stumbled across this thread. Very cool! I know nothing about pulling trucks but I'm looking forward to learning. Love the shop and property. That part of Maryland is pretty nice. I grew up in NoVA and often made trips up to northern MD to fish for striper and bluefish.


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getblown5.9

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Dash is in. Next step is wiring and throttle.

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getblown5.9

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Been a few days since updating on the current build. I had to get the hand throttle lever setup mocked up so I could measure for the custom push pull cable. Then I went back to working on the underside of things again. Was going to modify the stock crossmember for clearance on the front driveshaft due to swapping to a different transmission now. I could have bought the correct member for $100+ plus shipping, but I could built it for free out of material I already have, and now it is a simple 2 bolt removal instead of 8 bolts that are hidden up inside the frame rails making it a pain to pull out. After getting the crossmember done and newly shortened driveshaft installed I went to work build shields to cover the u-joints in the event of a failure. Way overbuilt the driveshaft cage but I never want to be reaponsible for a bystander taking shrapnel to the face. Everything is built to be removable if needed. The shields are schedule STD 6" pipe from when I worked in a piping fab shop.

In the process of all this work I built a jig to drill the 32 holes in 16 angle iron flanges and repurposed old cabinet knobs as drill press knobs for my HF drill press.

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