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1/4" hex drive sockets

kblee27

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I have a couple of cordless impact drivers with 1/4" hex drive.

But I find it difficult to get a one-piece socket like this one:

DOUBLE%20ACE%20Power%20sockets-500x500.png


Most hex drive bits are for smaller bits like phillips, slot, square, torx, allen and even drill bits. But they appears to be very uncommon for sockets, except for nutsetters. If I try to find deep sockets with 1/4" hex, it's quite fruitless.

I know you can add an adapter, but I was looking for a one-piece socket.

You can get all kinds of socket style, swivel, magnetic, standard, mid-length, deep, impact, non-impact; on square drives. But once it's 1/4" inch hex drive, those varieties doesn't seem to exist.

Is there a reason why ?
 
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bmwpowere36m3

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Because a 1/4 impact driver wasn't intended for that task. Use an adapter and regular sockets OR buy an impact wrench with a 1/4" square drive.

Better yet a 3/8" impact wrench...
 

pi_guy

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First question is why do you need a one piece socket?
I use the hex to locking square put any size socket on and it stays.
 

davethorik

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I often use a 3/8 drive 9/16 deep well socket on my Milwaukee M18 1/4 hex impact, but Ive switched to the Makita wobble drive adapter as I blew up 2 of the Milwaukee adapters. I imagine producing a ranged set of sockets like you describe would be too expensive.
 

FigureItOut

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What's functionally different about what you're wanting than a hollow 1/4" hex drive nut setter? Do you want the hex broached all the way down?
 

kctyphoon

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I use the apex 1/4" hex to 1/4" square adapters. Bought them used off eBay with the pin locks. I then bought the cheapest 1/4" impact socket set I could find off Amazon. They work good, they do wobble a little, but I'm not dropping sockets 15' feet in the air with the locking adapter and locking chuck on the impact driver.

I suppose if you were that motivated you could JB Weld the adapters in place and eliminate the wobble.. not that big of a deal for me, but I tried looking for the same type of sockets you mentioned..
 
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kblee27

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First off, I'm restricted by the tools and size in what I can carry and what's available to me. Sockets are mostly bought from Amazon and cordless tools from ebay.

Now I'm mostly stuck with the Milwaukees. I've the right angle M18 3/8" sq drive impact. It turns to be too big for me to carry around. So I got a smaller M12 right angle impact, but it came only with 1/4" hex, no square drive option.

Then there's the torque. Milwaukee 1/4 hex drive have more torque than 1/4 sq equivalent. I need the higher torque sometimes.

To use a 1/4 hex-to-sq adapter adds to the overall length of the socket. Work area may be restricted by the length. Sometimes, I accidentally short out a battery bcuz of the length. Hence the right angle impact, and I'll put insulation on the other side of the tool. In some cases I need a deep broach (deep socket) to remove a nut off a long thread.

I've tried Irwin pin lock adapter. It didn't always work well. Sometimes under impact, the pin lock came off and I'm hard pressed at that time to try and push it back. I may look for the apex version though.

3/8 dr is too bulky for me so I try to find 1/4" locking extensions. But it's always a game of the hex drive vs what's available at the other end.

With square drive, a lot more options are available, like a magnetic, swivel or deep socket.

So you could say, I'm caught in-betwen many factors, like space constrains and what tools are available.

I'm just curious why 1/4 hex doesn't appear to be as broadly supported as sq drive, based on the types of sockets available.

For me, I use them interchangeably, but it seems to be defined by what's an "impact driver" and what an "impact wrench" can do.

Maybe I think too much, but I've been shifting my tools around between drives, bits and sockets but still can't get an optimal compromise. I do use hand tools additionally.
 
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kblee27

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I use the apex 1/4" hex to 1/4" square adapters. Bought them used off eBay with the pin locks. I then bought the cheapest 1/4" impact socket set I could find off Amazon. They work good, they do wobble a little, but I'm not dropping sockets 15' feet in the air with the locking adapter and locking chuck on the impact driver.

I suppose if you were that motivated you could JB Weld the adapters in place and eliminate the wobble.. not that big of a deal for me, but I tried looking for the same type of sockets you mentioned..

Thanks for the idea of JB Weld.
I'll probably use it on some (broken) extensions which I'd no further use for. ;)
 

bob15

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Have a look through the Apex catalog, they might have something that would work. Not sure if there are any distributors in Singapore, but it is worth looking through.

http://products.apex-tools.com/tools/bits/hex-driver?att668491=

Have you tried the the Apex with the retaining ball? Also, I'm not so sure how much a 1 piece deep socket is shorter than a deep socket with an adapter.

Maybe an adapter and a semi-deep socket?
 

DFB

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The only ones I can find in a search are the Insty Bits
see no metric sized offering though

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Deep-Well-Nut-Setters/G4219

An issue with most one piece shank nut drivers sets is size 1/2" or maybe 12mm is often the largest size available.

I mainly use 3/8 impact sockets on common square shank impact rated adapters. The ball and hole make a solid connection and it takes some effort to pull them apart. I cant really foresee them falling off or staying stuck on a fastener. I also have several different brands of adapters Milwaukee Titan, Ares and some generic TSC stuff and all fit decently tight in both the 1/2 and 3/8 sizes but depending on the brand of adapter 1/4 isn't so secure with any of them but it could be just the few cheap 1/4 deep impact sockets I have too. I never went heavy into 1/4 drive impact sockets.

For the most part I like the fit of the Milwaukee brand adapter better in the short 1/4 drive than some of the others I have
 

bmwpowere36m3

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The hex drive sockets posted by the OP, appear to be the same length if an adapter was used with a regular socket. I have a few nut-setter bits, but their sizes are limited. What are you using the impact for with such tight clearances? Apex makes some very short hex adapters.

As far as impact driver vs. wrench... "hex drive" was intended for small bits (phillips, flat, square, torx, etc...) with low-torque. However impact drivers have significantly improved in terms of power since then, but the hex drive has remained.3

I see an impact driver as a construction vs. automotive/industrial tool... meant for screws, lags and occasional bolts (wood, metal, concrete). Whereas the impact wrench (square drive) for machine threaded bolts/screws (metal).
 

WWheeler

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I have a 3/8 and 1/2 sq dr cordless impacts these days but for a long time I used exclusively my Dewalt DC825B 1/4" bit impact along with a set of locking impact socket adapters. I've used them under various brands, Klutch, Titan, etc, and they all seem to be the same and work well to keep the socket in place and not pull off on the fastener.

I was never bothered by the length and never broke or wore one out. I lost/misplaced more than a few though.

sosrhx.jpg
 

Wamsutta

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The easiest thing to do is get an impact driver with a 1/4 inch male square drive, then you have all kinds of options for sockets.
 

kctyphoon

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the issue i had, was finding one piece sockets that were deep.. shallow isnt so hard to find, but deep is next to impossibe in an impact socket with 1/4" hex drive
 

Danglerb

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I've got 3 or 4 different sets of one piece hex drive sockets in both SAE and metric, many of the bit sets as well as hex drive tools come with full sets of socket bits.

Craftsman 208pc bit set I just bought on sale for $19.99 has both SAE and metric in it.
 
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kblee27

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The hex drive sockets posted by the OP, appear to be the same length if an adapter was used with a regular socket. I have a few nut-setter bits, but their sizes are limited. What are you using the impact for with such tight clearances? Apex makes some very short hex adapters.

As far as impact driver vs. wrench... "hex drive" was intended for small bits (phillips, flat, square, torx, etc...) with low-torque. However impact drivers have significantly improved in terms of power since then, but the hex drive has remained.3

I see an impact driver as a construction vs. automotive/industrial tool... meant for screws, lags and occasional bolts (wood, metal, concrete). Whereas the impact wrench (square drive) for machine threaded bolts/screws (metal).

I worked on car batteries and encounter all kinds of situation. I try to limit the number of tools I carry, based off a single impact driver.

Sometimes I encounter stuck nut on a battery terminal full of corrosion salt. I found an impact driver the best way to hammer cruds off the terminal. They usually come loose and easier for me to remove without further damaging the terminals.

I'd use the same tool to remove battery hold-downs with long threads on Japanese cars. Then I need extension with sockets for European/Korean car hold-downs. I'd prefer short magnetic socket, but sometimes it's a nut, not a bolt, so the magnet gets in the way. On some cars, I need a swivel socket bcuz of the tight space the hold-down is located. Sometimes I've to remove air filter box before I can reached the battery and encounter phillips, torx or hex screws.

So trying to do all of the above is quite a challenge with the limited tools available and what I can carry around.

Thanks fior the insight to construction vs auto tools.
 
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dnschmidt

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VIM makes a set of exactly what you're looking for. One side of the box is conventional magnetic nutsetters which are quite useful but the other side of the box is the nutsetters with a hollow shank and no magnet making them in effect deep sockets. Work great.
 

WWheeler

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VIM makes a set of exactly what you're looking for. One side of the box is conventional magnetic nutsetters which are quite useful but the other side of the box is the nutsetters with a hollow shank and no magnet making them in effect deep sockets. Work great.

I assume these are what you are refering to?

metric
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VHZHAU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

sae
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VHZHAU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Nice tip. I might have to pick these up. ;)
 

bmwpowere36m3

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VIM makes a set of exactly what you're looking for. One side of the box is conventional magnetic nutsetters which are quite useful but the other side of the box is the nutsetters with a hollow shank and no magnet making them in effect deep sockets. Work great.

Good find!

I bet an Apex adapter and shallow socket would be similar.

VIMs 65 mm or 2.6 inches. Apex adapter is 1.375" + socket, (less than 1" for 1/4" shallow).
 

FigureItOut

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Re: 1/4" hex drive sockets

VIM makes a set of exactly what you're looking for. One side of the box is conventional magnetic nutsetters which are quite useful but the other side of the box is the nutsetters with a hollow shank and no magnet making them in effect deep sockets. Work great.

I assume these are what you are refering to?

metric
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VHZHAU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

sae
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VHZHAU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Nice tip. I might have to pick these up. ;)
I have those, I kept thinking I should post them but I thought they wouldn't meet OP's needs. In any case, get them. They're absolutely awesome. I use both sides frequently and one day I'll pick up the SAE set just cuz they'll be super handy to have around for household tasks. VIM also has a longer set, with very deep hollow shanks, though it doesn't come with the magnetic counterpart and the size range is smaller.
 

bmwpowere36m3

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I think your desire is a bit unrealistic...

For the versatility you want, hex drive isn't the solution. You're trying to make it "work". Nut-setters or that type of driver/socket are more for repetitive work IMHO. Or for someone you only needs a couple sizes at a time. The variety of hardware a mechanic deals with makes them impractical unless you do very specific jobs/tasks. For example, we keep a 8 mm nut-setter on a cordless drill which is ONLY used to remove/install underbody trays/fairings.

Not sure what kind of batteries your dealing with, but I've never used an impact on a typical lead-acid or AGM automotive battery. Do you only carry the impact? No wrenches or ratchets?

Maybe a better question is, how do you make it "work" now?
 
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kblee27

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I deal with lead-acid battery only.

I like to use the impact bcuz I often come across corroded terminals and it helps to loosen it. Otherwise, I use a couple of manual wrenches, combination and ratcheting. I also have m12 ratchet, but it tends to twist the wrist, so I put it aside.

I'm trying to work "faster" with a cordless driver/wrench. Finding the perfect one is probably unrealistic like you say, but I'm still trying LOL.
 

superautobacs

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Kblee,

Since you're located in Singapore I assume you have some access to Japanese brands? Just to name a few...they would be brands like Vessel, Ko-ken, TOP, Mitoloy.

All of these companies offer shallow, semi-deep, deep, extra-deep, swivel sockets.

Vessel
http://www.vessel.co.jp/bitsocket/html/bitsocket/info/utility-socket/

Ko-ken
http://www.koken-tool.co.jp/imgs/panflets/KOKEN201203_CONST.pdf

TOP
http://www.toptools.co.jp/tools/drill_sockets/page/3/

Mitoloy
http://www.mitotool.com/mitoloycatalog/HTML5/pc.html#/page/20
 
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kblee27

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Kblee,

Since you're located in Singapore I assume you have some access to Japanese brands? Just to name a few...they would be brands like Vessel, Ko-ken, TOP, Mitoloy.

All of these companies offer shallow, semi-deep, deep, extra-deep, swivel sockets.

Vessel
http://www.vessel.co.jp/bitsocket/html/bitsocket/info/utility-socket/

Ko-ken
http://www.koken-tool.co.jp/imgs/panflets/KOKEN201203_CONST.pdf

TOP
http://www.toptools.co.jp/tools/drill_sockets/page/3/

Mitoloy
http://www.mitotool.com/mitoloycatalog/HTML5/pc.html#/page/20


The shops here are not that easy to "navigate" around. Except for a couple of big hardware shops, the rest are like mom and pop stores. They don't display their stuffs openly and you need to know exactly what you want and they'll start searching for you.

I know one selling Toptul, but I wasn't looking for it at that time. They have other tools from JTC Taiwan, not sure if anyone here heard of them.
http://eng.jtc.com.tw/

I bought a Vessel screwdriver set from a small shop, but it's not like they rep Vessel or sell a lot of their stuffs. I found it in a mix of all kinds of similar tools. And many are cheap, low quality Chinese tools.

Taiwanese tools are slightly more expensive here than the Chinese. Japanese tools are the most expensive, so not many shops are selling them.

I wanted to buy some sockets and a shop sold me King Tony. I didn't know at that time their quality, but it appears good, so I bought some.

I doubt I've seen a Koken or Nepros here before or anyone selling it.

Most of the tools I know comes from countless hours of browsing at Amazon. ;)
 

superautobacs

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The shops here are not that easy to "navigate" around. Except for a couple of big hardware shops, the rest are like mom and pop stores. They don't display their stuffs openly and you need to know exactly what you want and they'll start searching for you.

I know one selling Toptul, but I wasn't looking for it at that time. They have other tools from JTC Taiwan, not sure if anyone here heard of them.
http://eng.jtc.com.tw/

I bought a Vessel screwdriver set from a small shop, but it's not like they rep Vessel or sell a lot of their stuffs. I found it in a mix of all kinds of similar tools. And many are cheap, low quality Chinese tools.

Taiwanese tools are slightly more expensive here than the Chinese. Japanese tools are the most expensive, so not many shops are selling them.

I wanted to buy some sockets and a shop sold me King Tony. I didn't know at that time their quality, but it appears good, so I bought some.

I doubt I've seen a Koken or Nepros here before or anyone selling it.

Most of the tools I know comes from countless hours of browsing at Amazon. ;)

That's unfortunate because those companies (and other Japanese brands) have exactly what you want, and I would've thought that there would be a decent presence of Japanese brands there. Apparently not.

Maybe you can try some Rakuten stores or Frank at Frankstools.com?
 
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kblee27

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That's unfortunate because those companies (and other Japanese brands) have exactly what you want, and I would've thought that there would be a decent presence of Japanese brands there. Apparently not.

Maybe you can try some Rakuten stores or Frank at Frankstools.com?

Thanks. I tried Rakuten and found a good tool.
It's a bit expensive. Shipping is costly too, compared to the free shipping I get from Amazon. :lol:
 

driz

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First question is why do you need a one piece socket?
I use the hex to locking square put any size socket on and it stays.


Me too. just pair up the adapter with your favorite six point quarter inch sockets. Those things are really cheap and it's just more sockets to drag around and having the toolbox kicking about.
I started using my Dewalt last year and I got to say I use it a lot more now than I get my impact just because it's quick I don't have an air line did drag around. Overall it works just as well:thumbup:
 

Infinia

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I worked on car batteries and encounter all kinds of situation. I try to limit the number of tools I carry, based off a single impact driver.

<snip>
So trying to do all of the above is quite a challenge with the limited tools available and what I can carry around.

Thanks fior the insight to construction vs auto tools.
if yer doing work for recycling why not cut everything free ? bolt cutters/pry bar and decent pair cable cutter on a belt holder?
I often find ppl asking for invented / weird tools are doin the job in ways that aren't the most "efficient".?
 
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kblee27

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if yer doing work for recycling why not cut everything free ? bolt cutters/pry bar and decent pair cable cutter on a belt holder?
I often find ppl asking for invented / weird tools are doin the job in ways that aren't the most "efficient".?

I change car batteries as in rescuing cars that broke down with a dead battery, not recycling.
So I encounter all kinds of cars, with different hold-downs.

Yes, I'm always trying to my job better and faster; it may be in different ways, different tools.

It has become something of an obsession.
 
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kblee27

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I have another question if someone can help me.

It appears there are 2 types of 1/4" hex shank length, the one near the end, after the ball groove.

This one is 13(14mm)
See the dimension below:
201201_new_cons.jpg


The "regular" one is about 9mm, about 4mm shorter.

Which means the regular ones that fit in my cordless tool may not fit the 14mm one.

What's that 14mm one used for ?

I have a couple of them, which I cut away the extra length, bcuz it won't fit in my cordless driver.
 
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Infinia

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I change car batteries as in rescuing cars that broke down with a dead battery, not recycling.
So I encounter all kinds of cars, with different hold-downs.

Yes, I'm always trying to my job better and faster; it may be in different ways, different tools.

It has become something of an obsession.

I see:thumbup:

my thoughts
IMO a power tool cant always make the job faster / better unless on production basis / many repeated fasteners.

Consider a T-handle >extension> universal swivel > deep socket
gives flexibility, all the torque needed, and enough speed w practice.
Just need to work out of a small carrying case for most useful extensions sockets. 10-14 mm?

anti-corrosion juice applied from a bottle w/brush?
 

tonyprovo723

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Re: 1/4&quot; hex drive sockets

I'll be a trouble maker...you should be using insulated tools around a battery. I don’t, but you should.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
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superautobacs

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I have another question if someone can help me.

It appears there are 2 types of 1/4" hex shank length, the one near the end, after the ball groove.

This one is 13(14mm)
See the dimension below:
201201_new_cons.jpg


The "regular" one is about 9mm, about 4mm shorter.

Which means the regular ones that fit in my cordless tool may not fit the 14mm one.

What's that 14mm one used for ?

I have a couple of them, which I cut away the extra length, bcuz it won't fit in my cordless driver.


You bring up an important detail. I was under the impression that certain Asian markets have a different standard in chuck design. At least in North America and I'm guessing all of Europe have a common standard, which is the 9mm depth. But as you already know, bits that are designed to work with a 13mm-depth chucks will not be able to lock the bit into the chuck designed for the 9mm chuck.

I've purchased several Anex bits in the past with the 13mm spacement, and like you, ended up grinding them to work on 9mm chucks. One benefit of grinding them down to fit was that I was able to make those bits lock to the chuck with no slop at all.

Although not very common, I have run across a couple bits that are dual-drive. They look like this:

106488-ak20ad-635-1.jpg
 
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