Pulling a ball bearing that's against a shoulder

[LinuxMercedes]

I'm rebuilding an air compressor pump and I need to pull a ball bearing off the crankshaft so I can replace a con rod. The bearing is one of these and it's pressed up against a shoulder on the crankshaft.

There might be just enough of the inner race protruding that I could maybe drive it off with a drift. Or I could use a 3 jaw puller and grab it on the outer race, but that would ruin the bearing.

What do you all think? I know there exist bearing pullers that can grab the inner race by the groove the balls run in, but they're $700+ on eBay!

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Why pull the bearing if your not replacing it? Unless cost is an issue, I'd pull or punch it off and replace.

 

[nbpt100]

Can you post a picture. Worth 1,000 words.

 

[MrGiggles]

You can also cut it most of the way with a die grinder and split it with a chisel.

 

[jkeyser14]

Do you have a welder? Weld flange of some sort on it and use a gear/bearing puller.

 

[Skin]

I'm rebuilding an air compressor pump and I need to pull a ball bearing off the crankshaft so I can replace a con rod. The bearing is one of these and it's pressed up against a shoulder on the crankshaft.

There might be just enough of the inner race protruding that I could maybe drive it off with a drift. Or I could use a 3 jaw puller and grab it on the outer race, but that would ruin the bearing.

What do you all think? I know there exist bearing pullers that can grab the inner race by the groove the balls run in, but they're $700+ on eBay!

x2 on why you're removing it if your intention is just to re-install it. Posi-lock sells the pullers you're talking about and they aren't remotely close to $700, more like $200 but that's nonsensical if its just for this one application. Better off bringing it to a machine shop, you'll pay at most 1/4 of that.

 

[jumbojak]

You can also cut it most of the way with a die grinder and split it with a chisel.

That's what I'd do if it had to go. If it wasn't bad I'd leave well enough alone though.

 

[bsaint]

Normally I'd use a bearing splitter

 

[Cahark]

Normally I'd use a bearing splitter

+1 on the splitter. Replacing the bearing probably wouldn't be a bad idea


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[MacMcMacmac]

If you can get an air chisel behind it you can usually knock it off with a few blows. Be careful as it can burr up whatever part of the crank it rests against.

 

[LinuxMercedes]

Here's a picture of what I'm dealing with:

The conrods are one-piece things that you snake onto the crankshaft. I need to put a new one on the right hand journal, since the one that was there now looks like this:

The bearing feels fine (no play) and I'd rather save the $25 if there's a way to pull and reuse it.

 

[APEowner]

Personally, if I had it that far appart I replace both bearings but from the pictures it looks like you could drive them off with a brass punch against the inner race.

 

[pi_guy]

Clamshell bearing puller expensive but never bearing damage
or bearing press plates they are tapered in center I have customized one and have one more to do.

With 3 jaw puller you are pulling on outer race not inner race that is stuck on shaft

 

[mbshop]

I would never go that deep into something and not replace the bearings.

 

[Mr_B]

Take numbers off bearings and find out availability and pricing, if cheap hardly worth paying money to someone or buying tools to remove them.
Is a good chance can drift them off if really don't want or can't buy new easily but if seem tight and struggling skip it as likely mark up crank and damage bearing so other removal options would be better.

 

[gungatim]

you need a bearing splitter. they are not expensive and even the HF 2pc set should work on that.

if you don't know what a bearing splitter is, here is a link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR46I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have that one and the 2pc hf set, quality seems about the same...

 

[jubilee]

Can always put whole part in cooler with dry ice for about 20 min. Remove ( wear gloves)
Stand on end, Heat race with torch, and it will fall off.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I'm going to assume that right side is a tapered shaft where the flywheel will go so you wouldn't have to fight the bearing the whole way.

I would think a bearing splitter would pull it away without damage to anything. Maybe add a little heat to the bearing & cold to the shaft like someone else suggested.

Just for grins though, I too would price bearings and if cheap enough might as well replace and not have to deal with it down the road.

 

[sberry]

If it is in good condition leave it alone. I have never had a bearing in good condition come apart after I did other work to a machine, never. This is part of the reason to do your own work, you can leave stuff don't need it and fix the pieces that do. No point in simply seeing how much money you can shove in to it and replace everything in sight.
Buy the HF splitter if you need to get it off.
The wear to bearings run in oil is about zilch. Golf cars use thse, never a failure, put a whole engine together with all used bearings, did a rod in my main air comp 20 yrs ago, thousands of hrs on it now and didn't replace them.
Old sealed bearings are a different issue.

 

[sberry]

Didn't replace any hearings in this ZF, synch and a gear, didn't even pull all the subs apart. Had to use splitter on brgs in it, re used them all.

 

[2oolhound]

I'd use a bearing splitter to start it moving.

Once you squeeze the splitter in deep enough to have enough meat of the puller's sloped surfaces to take the force you need to pull the bearing off using the tapped threads on the face of the splitter. This is important so you don't damage the crank's machined surfaces which could introduce stress risers which could cause crank failure.

Here's a shot of a performance crank shaft showing the shoulder the bearing abuts to and more importantly, the radiuses machined into the ends of the shafts. Stop the splitter before it reaches the shoulder or make sure it doesn't dig into this shoulder. The bearing should start moving before you get there. Damaging the radius will result in crank failure if your engine is high revving or high performance. Another plus with this system is you are exerting all your force from the end of the shaft and not supporting a fragile crank from another area while exerting force somewhere else which can put it out of true.

This shot shows the bearing about to be pulled forward once the splitter jaws are far enough in behind the race.

I've used set up wedges to remove bearings in similar situations. The ones with very slight angles are best for this work and heat helps as crank bearings are often friction fit. The splitter is a far better tool but you do what you have to sometimes.

There's nothing wrong with reusing bearings that have low miles on them but you'll have to inspect them very carefully visually and by feel and throughly clean them to be sure no rod fragments have caused damage or was about to.

 

[1606meyers]

If you have an O'Rielly's Auto store around, they will sell you the puller, than let you return it after your done. Money back. Kinda like a rental but, with no commitment to return if decide to keep it


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[Dingleburry]

Never heat a bearing past about 120c to avoid permenant damage, i keep it at 110 to be safe. 230-250f. But like other have said. Replace the bearing since youre that far into repairs. It would be like tearing down an engine at 100k miles and not replacing the timing belt. Use a bearing splitter. 3jaw puller, cut it off whatever. But i would replace it. Especially after taking off, which whatever method you use could have damaged it. Or damaged from disassembly/worn out. Also never use brass punches on bearings if you plan on using them or reusing them. The brass work hardens and flakes off and possibly contaminates bearings.

 

[DougWil]

Bearings should be installed or removed only by the race that is the press fit.
So in your case, it is a press fit on the inner race and only the inner race should have force applied on it for removal.

Doing otherwise applies the force to the balls which can damage the balls or the race.

 

[bubinga]

I have the HF set, is about a 8" X 12" red plastic case.
It's a pretty decent set.

 

[rhandwor]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371862325616/www.ebay.com/.