Ratchet lubrication info for video...

[DIYJus]

Hi all, after getting some favorable reviews on my 1st YouTube vid (Thanks!), I realized I should create a matching user to my YouTube account, so here I am!

One of the challenges I'm facing is that it's tough to make a video short enough and get all the info needed packed-in. I'd like to make a detailed "general" video about the choices and reasoning behind the different types of lubrication for ratchets. This way; I can just refer to that video rather than explaining it each time I do a different ratchet. It would also be a great reference to point new members to.

So; I'm soliciting your opinions and experience. My searches have shown these tidbits of info so far. What am I missing, what is good or bad info, etc?

Here's the channel for those who haven't seen where I'm headed at the moment..

DIYNexus YouTube Channel

Lubes:
Assembly Lube (Red Lube of Love)
Superlube
Marvel Mystery Oil
3-in one oil
Bearing grease

Info:
Thicker lubes will stay in place better, but will cause more drag and possibly cause skipping in higher tooth count ratchets (60+ teeth)

Thinner lubes are more prone to leak out in your toolbox, and lose effectiveness over time.

A quiet ratchet is not necessarily a good thing. Generally that means too much lube which will prevent the teeth from meshing fully.

Why do we want lube in the ratchet?

 

[Nigelhirst]

First of all, well done on an excellent video.
IMHO the thicker the lube, the better - it sticks more, and therefore lasts longer.
The point forces of the pawl against the gear are enormous - compared to the viscosity of any lubricant. I have found Boelube work well. Other lubricants are available!
ATF seems to penetrate the locating ball in the anvil best.
Keep up the good work.
Nigel

 

[Spacecataz]

I use "Red Paste of Love" (SL+RLL) for the lower teeth ratchets and B&M Quick Shift blue transmission fluid for the higher teeth. Both work great. The best combo out of all I have tried. The fluid is about 15+ years old though, so I will run out some day.

 

[WWheeler]

Hi all, after getting some favorable reviews on my 1st YouTube vid (Thanks!), I realized I should create a matching user to my YouTube account, so here I am!

One of the challenges I'm facing is that it's tough to make a video short enough and get all the info needed packed-in. I'd like to make a detailed "general" video about the choices and reasoning behind the different types of lubrication for ratchets. This way; I can just refer to that video rather than explaining it each time I do a different ratchet. It would also be a great reference to point new members to.

So; I'm soliciting your opinions and experience. My searches have shown these tidbits of info so far. What am I missing, what is good or bad info, etc?

Here's the channel for those who haven't seen where I'm headed at the moment..

DIYNexus YouTube Channel

Lubes:
Assembly Lube (Red Lube of Love)
Superlube
Marvel Mystery Oil
3-in one oil
Bearing grease

Info:
Thicker lubes will stay in place better, but will cause more drag and possibly cause skipping in higher tooth count ratchets (60+ teeth)

Thinner lubes are more prone to leak out in your toolbox, and lose effectiveness over time.

A quiet ratchet is not necessarily a good thing. Generally that means too much lube which will prevent the teeth from meshing fully.

Why do we want lube in the ratchet?

^ True all that.

I used to use 'Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube' (RLL) quite a bit in higher tooth count ratchets and Superlube in everything else, but have switched to Superlube in everything. Unless you put way too much I've found it works just fine in my 80 and 90 tooth ratchets all the way down to my 36 toothers. Even my old RHFT ratchets get the Superlube treatment these days. you just have to break the whole dual pawl assembly all the way down to be able to get the lube everywhere it needs to go.

I break down every ratchet I have every few years to inspect and re-lube, and I do the same to every ratchet I get new whether it's just new to me or actually brand new.

A lot of times on new ratchets, especially noticeable on Snap On dual 80 or 900-series ratchets, there is very often a lack of any lube at all (dry as a bone) behind the toothed gear/anvil creating a lot of unnecessary backdrag. If you just leave it alone they will loosen up over time as some lube eventually will work its way back there, but the difference can be huge if you just open it up right off the bat as soon as you get it and add a small pea-sized dab back there. A dual 80 can go from being one of the worst backdrag ratchets I've ever held to one of the least and they stay that way. Once that lube gets back there it's not going anywhere.

 

[tonyciambrone]

My lube of choice is SIL-GLYDE not to be confused with other glyde lubricants...

My composite harbor freight ratchets are so smooth now I second guess whether or not I hit the direction lever hard enough.

 

[jo4gj]

can some one put a link so i can for sure order the right superlube?

well i see if i went to the video on you tube the link is there

 

[Infinia]

Why do we want lube in the ratchet?

dry ratchets ? Even mech. watch movements use oil on the gears.
Good > Oil lube reduces wear, corrosion, and back drag.
Bad > Oil viscosity changes with time and temperature. Oils can collect and hold dirt and can even go rancid in some cases.

I'd contact the leading ratchet manufacturers an ask what they recommend. I don't think there is one best lube for every ratchet design/ tolerances out there. .
AFAIK Snap On includes Superlube in some of their ratchet rebuild kits. I like synthetic lube in all my ratchets, used very sparingly. In RHFT designs I mainly use 3-in-one or light machine oil. I think folks tend to use too much lube which can make things worse, sadly ratchets don't come with dipsticks.

The last ratchet I bought was sealed non user serviceable, so there's that. Subjectively that one also has the lowest back drag ive ever felt, its feels like it has 100 teeth even though I counted 72.

 

[Joe Mamma]

I experimented with and use different lubricants depending on the particular ratchet. I'm not going to bore you with all of my choices and reasons.

However, I do think it would be a good idea for you to point out in your video that some manufacturers also recommend different lubricants based on the particular ratchet.

For example, I know on some (maybe all) Wright ratchets, they are engraved with "OIL ONLY" or something similar. I think your viewers would appreciate seeing this.

Joe Mamma

 

[1990 Grand Wag]

I've used Marvel Mystery Oil in the higher tooth count ratchets unless something else is recommended (like SuperLube). I've used SuperLube in my old Proto's and other ratchets, and those Proto's are smooth as silk when lubed properly (I swear by them)! I have a round head Armstrong that I hated, that was until I dunked it in ATF. It works like a charm now! My $.02

 

[Adam.C]

I have a question: Do you make money if you get enough hits to your youtube channel?

I feel like some guys are making videos using info they learn here, which feels a little like we're being taken advantage of. Or am I way off base?

Constructive.... - I think someone smart should gather a few gems from our threads and make them sticky. We have few stickys here and seem to answer the same questions over and over again. This subject is one of them. What does it take to make a thread or a collection of posts sticky?

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I wouldn't worry about YT revenue... unless its your full-time job and generating new content all the time. The ad-revenue for me was peanuts ($100-200), though I was younger and had more free-time. Now, my time is worth more than that.

 

[DIYJus]

Thanks for the comments and insight, I'll get to most of em here.

I used to use 'Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube' (RLL) quite a bit in higher tooth count ratchets and Superlube in everything else, but have switched to Superlube in everything. A lot of times on new ratchets, especially noticeable on Snap On dual 80 or 900-series ratchets, there is very often a lack of any lube at all (dry as a bone) behind the toothed gear/anvil creating a lot of unnecessary backdrag.

Great info, will add as a positive reason why we should lube!

My lube of choice is SIL-GLYDE not to be confused with other glyde lubricants...

LOL, thanks, will put it in the list.

I'd contact the leading ratchet manufacturers an ask what they recommend. I don't think there is one best lube for every ratchet design/ tolerances out there. .
AFAIK Snap On includes Superlube in some of their ratchet rebuild kits. I like synthetic lube in all my ratchets, used very sparingly. In RHFT designs I mainly use 3-in-one or light machine oil. I think folks tend to use too much lube which can make things worse, sadly ratchets don't come with dipsticks.

Thanks, it's a good thing to note that folks should most likely use the "manufacturer's specified lube". Also, thanks for your insights in both threads!

However, I do think it would be a good idea for you to point out in your video that some manufacturers also recommend different lubricants based on the particular ratchet. For example, I know on some (maybe all) Wright ratchets, they are engraved with "OIL ONLY" or something similar. I think your viewers would appreciate seeing this.

Agree, and thanks!

I've used Marvel Mystery Oil in the higher tooth count ratchets unless something else is recommended (like SuperLube). I've used SuperLube in my old Proto's and other ratchets, and those Proto's are smooth as silk when lubed properly (I swear by them)! I have a round head Armstrong that I hated, that was until I dunked it in ATF. It works like a charm now! My $.02

Thanks, I'd wonder if the MMO would leak out? It's somewhat thin/watery right?

I have a question: Do you make money if you get enough hits to your youtube channel? I feel like some guys are making videos using info they learn here, which feels a little like we're being taken advantage of. Or am I way off base?

You are correct with the question, but the honest (and sad) answer is that there's no monetary incentive for making these videos. Honest example with the 2 I have up so far: Combined they have around 250 views within 1 week. I've taken care to allow YouTube to do their advertising thing, I haven't run afoul of the copyright laws (no music, no prohibited speech, products, etc...). They estimate my earnings would be 15 CENTS. That's before they consider taxes, approvals, etc... I also have some links to Amazon items in the descriptions. These links have provided NO revenue in a week. I started doing this because it's a challenge, it's fun, and I want to help others. To your constructive question: I sincerely hope that I could make a video that details as much of the "ratchet lube" noob questions that the mods consider putting it up in one of the stickies. This should really help everyone on the board. I'll be mentioning GJ in the video and putting a link in the description as is only fair!

I wouldn't worry about YT revenue... unless its your full-time job and generating new content all the time. The ad-revenue for me was peanuts ($100-200), though I was younger and had more free-time. Now, my time is worth more than that.

Agree. Sad though. Actually $100 looks so far out of reach that I wonder if anyone makes money. What was your subscriber base and/or views if you don't mind?

 

[1cargarage]

I use Phil Wood Tenacious Oil for my ratchets. I discovered it while working on bicycles. It is basically the closest I have found for a best-of-both-worlds lube between oil and grease. It's thin enough that the teeth have no trouble achieving maximum purchase, but thick enough that it's not there-today-gone-tomorrow.

If you put a heavy drop on your finger and press and release it with your thumb quickly, it doesn't want to pull apart easily. Little 'strings' form between each finger. Can't say enough good things about that stuff

 

[94_C/1500]

I've only ever took one ratchet apart, 1/2 inch Proto. I cleaned it and covered the internals with wheel bearing grease. Ratchet wouldn't work. I read of people using thin oils, I didn't think that was a good idea so I tried 140 weight. It leaks out.

 

[1cargarage]

A lube I have been meaning to use in a ratchet is made by bike component & fishing reel behemoth Shimano. They actually make a specific grease for the inside of a bicycle's freehub, which, if you've ever taken apart, is effectively a large ratchet.

Bicycle hub:

Other bicycle hub:

Shimano Special Grease for Freehub Body:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Freehub-Body-Grease-50g/dp/B002P8IAHA

Greasing a ratchet with grease made for a ratchet (hub) just might be the move.

 

[DIYJus]

Finished the video and posted it in a new thread here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353726

Everyone got a shout-out there. Thanks!

 

[gdocktor3]

Grease gets really, really tacky in cold weather and will make ratchets a real pain to use if applied to heavily.