Garage Heater Question

[HDRKC07]

Thanks again everyone for the replies.
Hey Onewheat - your ceiling is a lot higher than mine. I was a little over 8 feet so I was able to fab up box to sit the heater on in my front loader on the tractor and lift it up. There was a lot of bucket maneuvering and up & down on the ladder, but I was finally able to muscle it up enough to get the first nut on the threaded rod. Then went to the opposite corner, got it attached then slowly lowered the bucket enough to allow me to move the heater around to attach the nuts. There were a few tense moments, but I got it done. There is a great thread on here about methods others have used to do the hanging by themselves. I just typed in "hanging garage heater" in the search function. Hope that helps. Sounds like you are going for a horizontal vent through the wall. I know there is info on here about that venting option. It should give you some ideas.
CKS1955 - Thanks for that information. If I may ask, did you get your stainless vent pipe on line and the source. Thanks
D45 - Thanks again for your helpful info - always appreciated
mrobbins2977aaa - The manual, at least to me; is confusing. There are also many interpretations of the way it reads and how the code has changed. I believe from what I've read and from what helpful info I have received from others on here; the exhaust pipe has to be UL 1738 Cat III stainless. CKS1955 sounds like had this verified by Beacon Morris. Thanks once again everyone for all the helpful information.

 

[toyotadriver]

I believe he is correct

The manual for this heater says the it can use B vent for a vertical exhaust. Not sure where people are coming up with the idea that B vent is prohibited.

 

[D45]

Sealed separate combustion I thought couldn't use b-vent

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Does it say that somewhere? show me?
When I read the installation instructions, in the beginning where it describes the heater it does not say Catt III venting only.
If the unit could only be vented using al-29 ss it would say that up front...i.e. cat III venting only

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Although I have not installed this brand heater I have installed those hot dawg's with "B" vent threw the roof...........I doubt that this Beacon Morris brand is much different

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Here is a good write up for a horizontal install:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316473

Jay

Jay, it's a great thread but it's not what were talking about here

 

[Showkey]

This B vent horizontal being discontinued........why and when ? For years professional garage heater installs all ran B vent out the side wall. I know the rules changed ..........but why ?

In my area there are dozens of horizontal B vent installs and other than a few rusty pipes after 15-20 years there seems to no real issues or problems. Mine is grandfathered in and curious I have measured the pipe and wall temperatures and found nothing abnormal.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Sealed separate combustion I thought couldn't use b-vent

Ok you don't have to show me I read it myself......lol, when you read the installation instructions for the combustion air box under vertical vent it does say Cat III venting ul1738........ "For residential installations in the United States, vent pipe approved for Category III appliances must be used between the appliance and the combustion air inlet box."....... ...which type "B" vent cannot be used for.

But under standard vertical venting it says Category I (which is type "B") can be used. So if your not using the Combustion air system and just taking combustion air from the space you could use type"B".
I Quote
3. Category I units are limited to a maximum of 40 feet (12.19m) equivalent length of vent pipe. Equivalent length is the total length of straight sections PLUS 5 feet (1.5m) for each 90 degree elbow and 2.5 feet (0.75m) for each 45 degree elbow.
4. A minimum vertical rise of 5 feet (1.5m) is required

 

[mrobins297aaa]

ok one last thing, the combustion air piping can be just plain old single wall stove pipe that you can buy at homedepot or any HVAC supply house............so save yourself some money, your going to need it when you purchase that cat III pipe and fittings.

From the installation instructions:

4. Combustion air intake duct may be PVC, CPVC, Type B vent, single wall, double wall or other material approved by local code authority. Never use duct size other than diameter stated in Table 1.
5. Long runs of single or double wall combustion air piping passing through an unheated space may require insulating if condensation becomes noticeable.

 

[CKS1955]

CKS1955 - Thanks for that information. If I may ask, did you get your stainless vent pipe on line and the source...

I bought mine at Menards during the 11% off sale. Saf-T Vent: http://www.menards.com/main/heating...venting/c-9520.htm?brandName_facet=Saf-T+Vent

I believe the change in code has to do with increased efficiency of these heaters and the flue gas cooling and condensing before exit the venting.

Jay

 

[fxstdave]

I've had a Beacon Morris for around 10 years now. Has been a very dependable unit. I hung it myself, and had a plumber buddy hook up the gas and run the B vent through the roof. I was in to it for around $1200 back then. Had my first issue with it a year ago, and the customer service tech line was very helpful. Turned out an insect nest was keeping the exhaust fan from spinning. In the end I guess it was a good safety feature, not allowing it to fire with no power vent working.

 

[HDRKC07]

Thanks guys for all the info - really appreciate it. I know going the separated combustion route is going to get into my wallet, but for piece of mind and a few other minor benefits I feel better going this route. Now just waiting for the concentric vent box to get off back order; then I can get this finished up. The way this weather has been in Indiana this year, 20 degrees one day and 50-60 degrees a few days later; probably won't even need the dang thing!

 

[Falcon67]

LOL, same here - ran the AC in the shop Saturday, it was 94F outside. I have wanted a 30~45K propane for the shop but haven't use the 25K Mr. Heater or any propane in the last three winters, so - why. Yes, having used both electric and propane if you can stretch for external it'd be worth it long run.

 

[HDRKC07]

Just saw where Menard's is doing the 11% Rebate again this week thru Feb. 18th. Guess this is a good time to buy the vent pipe and lessen the sting a little. I do have a question on wiring the 45K Beacon Morris. I'm no electrician so bear with me. I plan on mounting the cutoff switch on the back of the heater like I've seen others do on this forum. The "hot" (black wire) from power source will go on the bottom terminal of the single pole switch and the power out to the heater wiring (other black wire) goes on the top terminal. The neutrals (white wire) and the grounds (green wire) are connected by wire nuts, correct? Then the black, white and green from the switch; here's where I'm not sure. In the heater is one black wire labeled L-1. There is also a black and a white wire twisted together with a label L-2. Does the black wire (hot)from the switch connect to L-1 and the white (neutral) wire from the switch connect to the bundled white and black wires labeled L-2? There is a green wire in the heater that is attached to a ground screw so I assume that's where I could connect the ground wire from the switch. Appreciate any help or guidance. Thanks

 

[HDRKC07]

Hey Guys - Did some more wiring on the heater since the last post, so I think my wiring to the shutoff switch is correct. I still am not sure about hooking up the hot and neutral wires to the heater itself. As I said, I'm not an electrician and the wiring diagram is like looking at a foreign language. The heater came with 2 black wires connected together with at label L-1. There is another group of 2 black wires and a white wire connected together labeled L-2. My question is does group L-1 connect to the black hot wire from the shutoff switch and group L-2 connect to the neutral white wire from the cutoff switch? I also ran the thermostat wiring (18-3). I have the red connected to R on the heater, the green connected to G and the white connected to W-1. Does that sound correct? Thanks again for any help or guidance.

 

[TractorJeff]

Usually L1/L2 denotes where the incoming power is connected.
I "ASSUME" the cutoff switch would be factory wired??

 

[HDRKC07]

I finally sent a e-mail to Beacon Morris tech support and they responded within 20 minutes. The L-1 group was to be attached to the hot (black) wire coming from the cutoff switch and the L-2 group was to be connected to the neutral (white) wire. The concentric vent kit I ordered from littlegreenhouse.com is supposed to arrive by UPS tomorrow (Monday). The weather here in central Indiana is supposed to be in the 60-70 degree range most of the week, so hopefully I'll be able to get the vent work done. All that will remain at that point is the gas line which I probably will have done by a professional. I don't feel comfortable with that part. Thanks to all for the help thus far.

 

[CKS1955]

I finally sent a e-mail to Beacon Morris tech support and they responded within 20 minutes...

Their tech support is very good and responsive to inquiries.

Jay

 

[D45]

How far do you have to run the gas line?

Buried or above ground?

Attached garage or detached?

 

[csp]

I believe the change in code has to do with increased efficiency of these heaters and the flue gas cooling and condensing before exit the venting.

Jay

Exactly. The condensation is acidic and will eat through B-vent. Cat III is stainless and not affected by the acidic nature of the condensate.

 

[MorrisonRT]

I installed a 125000 BTU Modine in my shop. The unit was $900 and I spent around $300 on parts to hook it up. The propane supplier made the gas connection and checked for leaks as well as started it up and made adjustments.