chris142
Well-known member
same with my maveric 1000 except it takes me 4 hrs to gut the interier just to access the oil filter.
Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"
- Thread starter HoosierBuddy
- Start date
Sawdustmaker
Well-known member
Heater core failures haven't been an uncommon failure on newer cars, especially the domestics. QC on those parts definitely isn't where it should be.
Out of all the heater cores, that's the hard one? There's the s500 that calls for 24 hours labor, newer dodge and ford small cars that pay **** and require both front doors to come off, the aforementioned Camaro that requires the windshield be removed, even the prius, with its anaconda sized wire harness wrapped around the dash bar and **** pay didn't get a nomination? I've shared the f150 heater core how to on this site before. It's brilliantly engineered actually, for a behind the dash core. A few screws and the dash is pulled forward, the top half of the case comes off and you pull the heater core out.
UGH! That is worse,
Attachments
Syberia
Well-known member
Haven't had to do much to my Tacoma yet but my wife's 1999 Cavalier with the 2200 is pretty easy to work on. Oil filter is annoying though, it's on the backside of the engine right above the exhaust. No way to get it off without spilling, and then you get to smell it burn off the exhaust next time you start the car!
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The Buick 3.8 liter in the wagons was pretty much the same thing. Loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Amen, Brother. That's one reason I drove used G-bodies for so many years. They were still built like the older GM cars, instead of being a half baked U.S. idea of what a Japanese car was.
Tommy
the gypsy
Well-known member
For the oil filter issue on some cars, can't they be relocated to a more accessible location under the hood? Can something in the engine compartment be displaced to the trunk or under a rear seat or some other idea? Like some European cars with the battery under the rear seat. And some Chevy's with the battery in the trunk?
Weird Tolkienish Figure
Well-known member
I had to do this on my Saturn Aura. Bruised my arm terrible pushing it through the wheel well to replace a damn lightbulb. Ridiculous.
How about rear disk brakes on a mid 90s GM car. The only way they adjusted was by using the parking brake. So, nobody ever used the parking brake-esp. auto transmissions, and they froze solid with rust. At least up here in the salt belt where GM is located. I had a rare stick shift Olds Cutlass something or nuther, and they even rusted up on me.
skidoo2112
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2015
- Messages
- 20
Hey Phil not trying to be arrogant or anything here, just trying to help out. Next time I have to do one I will take a video sometimes they are a pain and don't go back together nicely, silicone lubricant on the o ring makes the cover slide into position easily. The clip you are looking for is right under the seam of the front quarter and bumper cover. Pull it straight down with the wheel cranked the opposite way and you can fish your arm in there, it takes practice just like anything else.
Cheers
Matt
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aka Larry
Well-known member
My wife's '13 Fusion also has large skid plate that has to removed to change the oil and filter. Not a huge deal I guess, but by comparison my '07 Fusion has two removable access ports (one for the plug, one for the filter) so they whole under tray doesn't have to be removed.
On the Mazda cartridge-type oil filter, not sure about your '09 model, but on my '07 Fusion (same drive-train as a Mazda 3) it's easily converted to a typical spin-on with a bolt-on kit. I despised the cartridge-type because it was messy and 2X the cost of a spin-on. Once we hit 100K and the warranty was up, I converted mine right away.
couch67
Well-known member
Thanks for the tip Larry I will look into that. I also thought about cutting an access hole for the oil filter in the skid pan. Those two mods would be pretty easy and make things a bit less miserable for oil changes.
couch
couch
Fourspeedwagon
Member
I haven't had time enough to read them all yet.. But my personal was a mercedes R class. the battery is under the passengers seat so carpet, door panels, console, seat, and more had to come out to get at it. And then the warning was that the airbag would likely blow up when you're down there--
Friend was a Saab guy but his always went to the dealer. Swore that the dierctions in the manual for pretty much anything was = Step one, Remove Engine
Friend was a Saab guy but his always went to the dealer. Swore that the dierctions in the manual for pretty much anything was = Step one, Remove Engine
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Step two should be "Replace entire vehicle with anything other than a Saab, but preferrably not a Peugeot, Volvo or Fiat"...
Tommy
SH7mi
Well-known member
We had an '05 BMW X5.
I go to change the battery, no problem right... its a BMW though!?! BMW does not want the owners working on their vehicles. I look for the battery (20 minutes) and can't locate it. Break out the owners manual for location and it does not reveal. Next step Youtube...
Step 1. Open hatch back
2. Lift floor mat
3. Remove spare tire
4. Remove air bladder
VOILA There she blows!!!
What a NIGHTMARE
I go to change the battery, no problem right... its a BMW though!?! BMW does not want the owners working on their vehicles. I look for the battery (20 minutes) and can't locate it. Break out the owners manual for location and it does not reveal. Next step Youtube...
Step 1. Open hatch back
2. Lift floor mat
3. Remove spare tire
4. Remove air bladder
VOILA There she blows!!!
What a NIGHTMARE
chris142
Well-known member
I was unfortunate enough to get to replace an ac compressor on a ford 6.0 diesel today. What an i'll designed and tedius job from hell that was!
Cant get to the bolts and there is only 3/4 inch between the heads and the frame. Whoever designed that needs to be shot.
Cant get to the bolts and there is only 3/4 inch between the heads and the frame. Whoever designed that needs to be shot.
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JRC3
Well-known member
***** all you want about a car with the battery hidden on the inside but at least they last twice as long as one under the hood. Had an Aurora and the original battery lasted over 9 years under the rear seat.
WhiffySpark
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 6,252
I should of took pictures of the s5 I did today. You guys would have had heart attacks. It calls for 14 hours to do the clutch.
stonesg
Well-known member
Ford Festiva...
To change the front rotors or bearings you have to remove the steering knuckle and press it apart.
THEN if you replace the bearings you have to press it back together, measure the clearance and pull it apart to place the proper sized shim to set the bearing preload.
Jeebus....
To change the front rotors or bearings you have to remove the steering knuckle and press it apart.
THEN if you replace the bearings you have to press it back together, measure the clearance and pull it apart to place the proper sized shim to set the bearing preload.
Jeebus....
F150tech
Well-known member
So much said about ford stuff that I consider gravy, but I work on them every day.
Did you know those stupid things (BMW overall) and many of the newer VW, and Volvos actually have computer algorithms that determine how to charge the battery? if you dont tell the computer you are putting a new battery in it will overcharge the new one.
Timing belts aren't too bad, had three 4 cyl Camry's and did one car twice. 90,000 mile intervals. I also owned two Tundra's both went over 200K and only one needed a starter and my only beef with that was NO slack in the wires and the stupid clip broke that holds the small wire so I had to tie wrap it. I just did the starter in my 6.5 Diesel C3500 and it wasn't that bad if you remove the wheel and move the inner splash shield. Oh, I do have a 2 post lift. These jobs are much harder without one for sure. Youtube is a great resource if you weed out the morons and the butchers.
My 2001 Merc. Marquis needs the pass side valve cover done. THAT job is a royal pain if you follow the book as it says to remove AC charge and heater/AC box! I think I'll just float the engine with my engine crane and move it to the right.
Ocho
Well-known member
Has anyone mentioned the late model BMWs with an Intelligent Battery Sensor?
The battery must be registered to the car using the BMW computer. You must also use a battery that matches the amp hour rating specified for that particular vehicle. Failure to do so results in the new battery failing in a couple of months.
This turns replacing the battery (what should be $100) into a $500 got-to-take-it-to-a-qualified-shop experience.
The battery must be registered to the car using the BMW computer. You must also use a battery that matches the amp hour rating specified for that particular vehicle. Failure to do so results in the new battery failing in a couple of months.
This turns replacing the battery (what should be $100) into a $500 got-to-take-it-to-a-qualified-shop experience.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
I've done it with a combination wrench and a sawed off plug socket..and some luck.. But yeah, all the plugs on those vehicles are a PITA in varying degrees. The exhaust heat shields do a number on your knuckles, too.
SH7mi
Well-known member
I've come to the belief if you don't make a minimum of 250 grand/year don't buy a BMW.
Jaguar Fan
Well-known member
GTA Matt
Well-known member
Just wait until the day that bmw does something crazy like using the sway bar to charge the battery. Waaaaiiiit a minute...they already are! Those crazy germans
engineer2
Well-known member
Warum sollte es einfach sein, wenn es auch funktioniert, wenn es kompliziert ist!
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
My best friend works for BBS Motorsports and owns two BMWs. He coined the phrase I posted...
Tommy
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bubinga
Well-known member
PITA set up.
The front slide pins always froze too.
Remember SO sold the kit with the hone, and the punch for your air hammer?
zigzagfrog
Active member
I once owned a 1974 BMW Bavaria. It didn't have a spin on oil filter, but intead used the filter-in-a-can with center through bolt application. If I had one hand on the can, one hand on the bolt and another hand on the wrench I could almost install it. This model came standard with hot oil running down my three arms. I
eventually gave up and had my friendly German car shop do the work. Strangely, whever I showed up, they were all on a break or in the john.
eventually gave up and had my friendly German car shop do the work. Strangely, whever I showed up, they were all on a break or in the john.
seagravedriver
Well-known member
With 69-70 big block Mustangs, per "the book", you need to loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine an inch or so.
Sunbeam Tigers with small block Fords had an access plate on the firewall for #4 and #8 spark plug.
Sunbeam Tigers with small block Fords had an access plate on the firewall for #4 and #8 spark plug.
Hello,
On my '06 Pontiac Solstice, the battery is behind the front wheel as part of trying to get the weight balance right, which doesn't sound too bad -- except to get the battery out, the front fender has to come off. You could also remove the inner fender and do it that way, I'm told.
Upside is that my '06 has, I think, the original battery in it.
My mother's '96 Chevy Lumina battery is awkward since it's under a fender brace.
My 2007 Subaru Outback H6 has been pretty easy to work on for just about everything, except the spark plugs. The front four were easy, and the back two should have been -- except the frame rails pinch in towards the back so there isn't any room. It's doable but a royal pain. The car was built with iridium plugs ($11ish each) but they're supposed to last a long time.
For non-routine-maintenance, that '99 Olds Bravada (an AWD S10 Blazer, basically) had a heater core that was awful. To remove, the dash had to come out, the inner fender had to come off, and a hole had to be cut in the heater box (it was marked "cut here" on the box!) so you could remove one fastener laparoscopically.
On my '06 Pontiac Solstice, the battery is behind the front wheel as part of trying to get the weight balance right, which doesn't sound too bad -- except to get the battery out, the front fender has to come off. You could also remove the inner fender and do it that way, I'm told.
Upside is that my '06 has, I think, the original battery in it.
My mother's '96 Chevy Lumina battery is awkward since it's under a fender brace.
My 2007 Subaru Outback H6 has been pretty easy to work on for just about everything, except the spark plugs. The front four were easy, and the back two should have been -- except the frame rails pinch in towards the back so there isn't any room. It's doable but a royal pain. The car was built with iridium plugs ($11ish each) but they're supposed to last a long time.
For non-routine-maintenance, that '99 Olds Bravada (an AWD S10 Blazer, basically) had a heater core that was awful. To remove, the dash had to come out, the inner fender had to come off, and a hole had to be cut in the heater box (it was marked "cut here" on the box!) so you could remove one fastener laparoscopically.
zoomzoomjeff
Well-known member
****. If it's any Jeep Torx garbage 1988 or older, by now the pot metal fastener has now chemically bonded to the submetal beneath it and your best bet is Kroil, followed by your Torx bit, followed by an easy-out, followed by a 4" grinder, and drill tap. THEN, you can replace with standard hex bolt.
That's why entire aftermarket companies exist offering full fastener replacement for every single torx bit on the entire vehicles!!bwringer
Well-known member
****. If it's any Jeep Torx garbage 1988 or older, by now the pot metal fastener has now chemically bonded to the submetal beneath it and your best bet is Kroil, followed by your Torx bit, followed by an easy-out, followed by a 4" grinder, and drill tap. THEN, you can replace with standard hex bolt.
If I had to offer an answer for this thread in one word, it would be: "Torx".
They're fine up to about a 6mm fastener. Bigger than that... get the drill.
rjacobs
Well-known member
When I was researching used BMW's last year at was astonished that in 2-3 years(2013 and 2014 models in 2016) cars had gone from 50k dollar cars to low to mid 20k dollar cars with 30-40k miles on them. Every BMW forum I read said "there is a reason they include 4 years 50k miles warranty and free maintenance because you are going to need it all and then everybody off-loads them". And in my research this seemed pretty true.
Needless to say I passed on a BMW.
Hilltopmasonry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2015
- Messages
- 2,172
A kid (20) worked for me bought a used BMW. He learned hard and fast about how expensive it was of a car to fix.. i preached to him to buy a used corolla or civic but no he had to have a BMW. Ironically he had an audi before that and had the same problem. Maybe third times a charm
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texasranger
Well-known member
That's fine with me, drives prices down for people that aren't scared to work on them themselves. My 06 is about to break 100k miles...in the 2.5 years I've owned it have just done normal wear items like brakes, shocks, wheel bearings. A couple hundred dollars in parts.
Back to the topic, the worst part of doing rear shocks is pulling out the trunk interior to access the top of the shocks. A small access cover would save a considerable amount of cussing.
lutter94
Well-known member
Shocks and wheel bearings should last over 100k. Unless its an off road used pickup, i could see added wear and tear. I suppose the shocks may have worn more from being 11 years old over the miles.
texasranger
Well-known member
The wheel bearing was just noisy at highway speed, wasn't worn out. Water intrusion most likely. Oil was leaking from the shocks, car came from the great lakes area so time and elements more the enemy than miles. On the other hand I was shocked how new the exhaust system still looks, they must use very high grade stainless.