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Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"

CoogarXR

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Jan 11, 2016
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Ohio
This is completely hearsay- but since I have been on this forum, I have seen people mention cars that need a service computer connected to "reset" the calipers or something... If that's true, that's BS. I think brakes should be able to be done at home.

That being said, I only drive older cars, so my gripes are pretty minor. Astro van spark plugs are a pain in the ****. But after owning 6 of them, I have learned most of the tricks (like doing the front 4 through the wheel-wells).
 
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dave89iroc

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Mar 25, 2015
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outside Detroit, Michigan USA
Nothing has changed. When I came of age, the first one I remember people screaming about was having to release a motor mount and jack the engine to do a starter on a V6 Mustang II. I think the 302 Mustang IIs had a spark plug from hell too, maybe the steering shaft or brake booster was in the way?

Of course the easiest starter in the world was on the Dodge vans we ran. Skinny me didn't even have to jack the van up! 15 minutes max.

b van with 225 engine?
 

dave89iroc

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Mar 25, 2015
Messages
706
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outside Detroit, Michigan USA
This is completely hearsay- but since I have been on this forum, I have seen people mention cars that need a service computer connected to "reset" the calipers or something... If that's true, that's BS. I think brakes should be able to be done at home.

That being said, I only drive older cars, so my gripes are pretty minor. Astro van spark plugs are a pain in the ****. But after owning 6 of them, I have learned most of the tricks (like doing the front 4 through the wheel-wells).

this is true, need to command the electronic parking brakes to fully retract the pistons in the rear calipers
 

bigal.eagmn

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Mar 7, 2016
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Minnesota
2000-2006 Toyota Tundra 4.7 V8 starters, located under the intake manifold. Yes you have to pretty much take off the top of the engine to replace it. I can't wait to do this job twice, I have 2 Tundras. Here's a internet pic for reference. This is a part that shouldn't be that buried to get to imho.


Nissan Titan starters are in the same spot...
 

Captain Spaulding

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Feb 13, 2017
Messages
754
Location
Southern Indiana
You guys forget the '78/'79 Monza's with the V8 that needed to have the motor mounts loosened to change the rear plugs...

Had a 75. You not only had to loosen the motor mounts, you had to take the bolts out of the steering box.

I finally cut a hole in the wheel well and bent an extension to reach without half pulling the motor to get it done.
 

glentre

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May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
Have had my 88 Pontiac Fiero GT V6 transverse engine for 28 yrs. Had the dealer change the plugs after owning it several years. Many years later, the car was running poorly so took it to same dealer ( different tech ) who found rear three plugs were bad and were originals that were never replaced because they are too hard to access. Cost me to remove the head to replace one plug broken off and fused to the threads.

Glen
 

aka Larry

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Eastern, NC
I think the thread was more aimed at the poor engineering making basic repair tasks harder then they need to be.

Exactly. Because someone else thinks removing the intake manifold is easy, doesn't mean it was the best decision to put the starter under there. Removing the seat in car is cake because it's only four bolts right? So why not put the fuse box under the seat then? Because it would be stupid!

Parts that routinely wear out should be engineered for easy R&R. Things like headlights & oil filters should be designed so easy anyone can do their own R&R. I understand why something like a heater core would be difficult to design for easy R&R, but I've only had one vehicle that needed to be done.
 

WhiffySpark

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Messages
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Exactly. Because someone else thinks removing the intake manifold is easy, doesn't mean it was the best decision to put the starter under there. Removing the seat in car is cake because it's only four bolts right? So why not put the fuse box under the seat then? Because it would be stupid!

Parts that routinely wear out should be engineered for easy R&R. Things like headlights & oil filters should be designed so easy anyone can do their own R&R. I understand why something like a heater core would be difficult to design for easy R&R, but I've only had one vehicle that needed to be done.

There's plenty of gms with the fuse box under the seat. Jeep has the battery under the front passenger seat. Older gm cars have it under the rear seat.
 

ChaseDE

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Aug 25, 2016
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Delaware
Exactly. My 06 Pilot's oil filter was pointed down underneath which is fine, but mounted just above a cross brace so when you pulled it oil would fall down, hit the brace and run all over. My 10 RDX's oil filter is the same but there is no brace under it and it fall right down into the drain pan.

Little things like that make a difference.

As far as heater cores, I have done 3, 96 Dodge neon, that 06 Pilot, and my 1999 C230K Benz, they are all a PITA requiring full dash removal. The Benz was the worst with an extra structural member behind the dash, then the core and evap inside a ********* plastic box with a million clips, was not a fun job at all.

dash.jpg

housing.jpg
 

aka Larry

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Any car with a fuse box cover without corresponding info on the label. The ones with the fuses numbered and you need a manual to look it up...stupid.
 

LXCam

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Apr 23, 2013
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19,203
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AZ
Any car with a fuse box cover without corresponding info on the label. The ones with the fuses numbered and you need a manual to look it up...stupid.

Ya the ones where you have to look at the lid upside down and sideways to figure out the orientation that count the spaces just to make certain, then flip between two areas of the manual to determine if its the FMPDC or RMPDC........... :wtf: ;)
 

skidoo2112

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2015
Messages
20
Over the years we've all run into automotive designs that make maintenance way harder than it should be. But this one really chapped by tail.

2014 Subaru Outback - Low Beam bulb Replacement

1. Put the car on a lift or jack.
2. Remove lug nuts tire and wheel assembly.
3. Pop out 10 (or so) plastic pins holding wheel well shield in place. Peel back wheel well shield and get it sort of out of the way.
4. Working from underneath, reach up into inner fender and (blindly) remove plastic plug/cover from back of headlight housing.
5. Pull connector off bulb assembly.
6. Blindly reach into cavity and pull on spring latch assembly until it opens to allow bulb removal.
7. Remove and replace bulb. Utilizing "Keller Technique" spin new bulb in housing until tab drops into groove.
8. Pray
9. Attempt to refasten spring assembly utilizing tip of index finger. The correct motion is forward, down, forward, up.
10. Attach bulb connector.
11. Check low beam for proper function.
12. Replace plug/cover (Good luck with that).
13. Find all the plastic pins removed during step 3. Put shield back in place and reinstall pins.
14. Replace wheel and retorque lugnuts.

I got it done last night in 30 minutes after watching it done on Youtube. I guess it is POSSIBLE to do with the wheel on...but it was hard enough for my big arm to get in there even with the wheel off.

My wife looked it up in her manual and it says "Take it to the dealer" if it needs a light bulb changed. LOL.

Phil
Subaru tech here I usually do these in the runway just turn the wheel the opposite way remove 1 clip and pull the inner fender cover down takes me about 2 minutes

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 

skidoo2112

Member
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Dec 23, 2015
Messages
20
I cuss the engineer who designed the Subaru Tribeca lights.
Yes the are a pain in the ***, AND they go bad about every 6 months.

Subaru dealer wants $120 each to change them.
Time to get rid of the worlds worst car god I hate those so much

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 

skidoo2112

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Dec 23, 2015
Messages
20
My favorite is on the late 90's/early 2000's Dodge Stratus/Plymouth Breeze/Chrysler Cirrus. To get to the battery, you need to remove the front passenger wheel and wheel liner because the battery is behind it. Fantastic.

And the other fave is pretty much any sideways V6 that requires tipping the engine forward to even get to the spark plugs for the 3 cylinders near the firewall. Think that's true for lots of 90's/2000's GM cars, as well as my dearly-departed 2003 Mazda6.
I have a engine mover made for 2000 s gms

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
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Moose97

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Jul 11, 2013
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North Central Texas
My 2005 is a pain in the rear, too. Not only does it have the same issue, but the 5.4L engine comes with two different oil filter threads (one is US, one is metric). You don't know which one you need till you get the filter off. Guess who thought his truck needed the "standard" US filter and wound up needing the metric one after all the oil was out?

Now, I did have a 2013 Cmax hybrid for a while and it was really easy--six screws to remove the fairing and the oil filter is right there. The only thing they could have done better was not have a structural bar behind the oil plug so I could get a socket on it (instead, a box wrench works).


Changing the alternator and clutch master cylinder on my 2003 Focus was a nightmare. The little hose clips for the clutch cylinder didn't want to go in and I almost lost one (making me very angry), but the alternator was actually more work.

Yea, the 08 has the same filter option. I remember them asking which one. For some reason I guessed metric...and was right!
 

Capt Chrysler

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Mar 6, 2011
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Middle of nowhere.
2014 Camaro heater core. Remove windshield!

Also has a sealed transmission. Call Lokar, pop out the plug, problem gone. Transmission computer on top of the valve body!
WTF
 

Throbbin Rods

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Dec 17, 2013
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Lebanon, NH
Only thing I ever had problems with was my 1967 Mustang GT. That big block made it impossible to change plugs without disconnecting the motor mounts and jack the motor up.
 

JRC3

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Jun 30, 2014
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12,481
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Southwestern OH
Inspired by the other opposite thread.

1993 Lincoln Mark VIII 4.6 DOHC water pump. It has like 3 bolts and an o-ring seal. It's like a 30 minute job even for a novice.

Looking under that hood you'd think any job would be a nightmare, but that water pump was shockingly easy.

Compared to a late 90s/2000s 2.7 Chrysler's water pump.

Yeah, that's it in the middle. Needless to say you do the chain, guides, and tensioner with it. And guess what happens when they leak???
 
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WhiffySpark

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Oct 22, 2009
Messages
6,252
Bah, there are a couple techs here that will tell you R&R on that is 1.6 and they can do it in .4. :eyecrazy:

8.8. Nothing about removing windshield?

Remind me of the people that wanted to remove my windshield on my 01 dodge to do the dash cover. And wanted me to pay for a new windshield if it cracked
 

4Kings

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Nov 2, 2010
Messages
263
Location
Southwest Missouri
Battery replacement. Early 2000's Chrysler FWD cars. Jack up, remove wheel, remove splash guard, associated bracketry, replace battery. Seriously stupid design.

My daily driver/beater is a 04 Dodge Stratus. Needed a battery 2 years ago and head over to Advance Auto for a replacement. I bought the battery and the "green" counter kid says he'll put it in for me. I said "Are you sure", yea I do them all the time, we offer it as a courtesy. Since it was about 10 degrees outside I threw him the keys. I stayed in the store and the other counter guy and I just started laughing while we watched him pop the hood and stare for about 10 minutes wondering where the battery is.

To his credit he did change it out for me but I'm sure he caught a raft of s..t from his fellow employees.
 

Bruce 993 SEA

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Oct 22, 2016
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La Conner, WA
This:

None of you has a 993 model Porsche 911 huh? Oil change requires the rear wheel, fender liner and rocker panel cover be removed. The SECOND oil filter requires a lift, removing the heat exchange hoses and sometimes an oil return line.

I've gotten pretty good at it....I'm down to an hour and a half.

And don't even ask about getting to the 12th plug ..often shops "forget" to replace that one.

There have been a couple of mentions of the Porsche 993...

It does take an hour and a half to do the oil and removing the right rear wheel for access. However, once the wheel is off, all the access is right in front of you. There are two filters and you can get just over 10 qts of the 12 out. Based on mileage, it is a once a year deal and not really bad time spent in the garage. It is easier with a lift but everything is easier with a lift.

The 12 plug is a pain and many owners have found old plugs "left" in there. I did it with two universals and a little patience.

The one that was not mentioned is the one I did hate but was doable. Bleeding the slave cylinder. You can see it or get you hand up there but not both at the same time. Imagine reaching up from the bottom of the car to about the underside of the rear window...you are pretty much in up to your shoulder. The pressure bleeder makes the job go OK as you are doing it by brail...!

Having said all that....they are wonderful cars. Sure there are lots of faster or more powerful cars now but the 993 has a classic look and amazing visceral feel to it.

I miss it but it was hard to drive it around 3.5 million idiots in the Seattle area. The best times were long drives hours from the masses. I remember Montana at 100 MPH for 3 hours straight...woo hoo!

Bruce
 

JRC3

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Southwestern OH
I changed my battery in a 01 Sebring without removing the wheel. Incidentally it's the same car with the 2.7 internal water pump. The same engines are prone to plastic thermostat housing cracks. Gotta remove the plenum to get to a bolt...Unless you get creative. See that wrench to the lower left? http://i.imgur.com/6JeV2vS.png A few minutes with the bench grinder to make the boxed end thin enough to slip between the plenum and the bolt and problem solved. I don't remember what the smaller "specialty" wrench was for sitting next to it.

Don't know why my attachment pics are loading so small. (removed)
 
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jetnow1

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Jun 27, 2016
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CT.
Only thing I ever had problems with was my 1967 Mustang GT. That big block made it impossible to change plugs without disconnecting the motor mounts and jack the motor up.

I remember this one, we eventually cut holes in the inner fender well to get at a couple of them. Headers did not help either.

Had to jack up the engine to change header gaskets also- I remember helping my buddy change his in my parents garage till my dad thru us out for making to much noise as my sisters were trying to sleep in the bedrooms above the garage. He backed the car out forgetting the motor was still jacked up on one side. Fun car- we blew up 3 390's in one summer but it was during the gas crisis so we bought them for $50 or less . Finally bought a 428 from a wrecked state police car, went thru it completely then we had a car that stayed together. Low 11 second car, then we got an offer we could not refuse on it.
16 year old kid talked his father into buying it for him, he totaled it the 2nd day he had it, the front fender was pushed all the way into the rear axle.
Cop told me he was doing over 100 when he hit the pole.
 

firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
My brother in law had one of those 4 cam 3.4L Grand Prix's that you had to drop the subframe to change the alternator. The alternators were unreliable, I suppose mostly due to the heat in that location. I actually swapped it once, and tried all sorts of ways to remove it without dropping the subframe. It really was necessary.
 

chris142

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Dec 19, 2011
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apple valley,ca
Another good one is if you have to replace the oil pan, normally a very simple job, in a 1996 cadillac deville, and maybe other vintages, you need to pick the motor a little bit in order for the pan to clear the cross brace under it.

Gotta drop the engine out the bottom to change the blower motor on that pos.
 

Dr Stan

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Nov 17, 2016
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Owensboro, KY
My dad always said that engineers should be required to work on what they're designing. He was an engineer too.

Amen to that! :+1:

There was the Chevette with an early electronic ignition. The engineers thought/assumed the cap & rotor would last the lifetime of the car so they put the AC pump over the top of the distributor. Had to pull it and lay it off to the side.

The starter was another issue. Had to pull the master cylinder and move it to the side so one could pull the starter up through the engine compartment.
 
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Cypherian

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No, much of this thread has been guys complaining about stuff they have never done, just heard about them. Again, opportunist outrage, omg! they put the starter where!? those stupid engineers. Whereas if they had done the job, the would say "that was easy! so much nicer then laying on my back or removing exhaust manifolds. That area of the engine is actually cooler then right behind the catalytic converters. Smart engineers." Everyone wants more power in a smaller, lighter, more efficient package. Sometimes that means the headlights are covered by the bumper.....which is easier to remove then the crusty trim rings and stripped screws on those old halogen sealed beams. Sorry if my ding dong comment offended. Ill try to be more PC the next time some idiot puts something other then atf inside their transmission.

And 6 hours for a fuel pump on a gmt400!? What shop? Are they hiring? Book time is 2.1. And I never pull beds, usually quicker to drop the tank. You talk about mechanics getting jobs done faster then book time, what if I got rid of all my time saving tools? Would you be willing to pay more if the job now took longer?

And as for your last comment, you will never hear me complain about paying for work from someone else. I'll usually tip them or bring them something to drink, etc. I understand the cost of doing business and can't stand it when people try to beat me up over price. I'll tell them to go do it themselves, then complain about how hard it is on the internet.

In reverse I am positive you have complained about paying a bill that was more then you thought it should be taxes, insurance, medical etc. It sounds like you treat trades folks well that is a good thing. Most in trades like yourself do try to do the best job that they can for the right price.

If you do not want to be questioned on price then your in the wrong business and honestly can't think of one that isn't questioned on price. Sadly bad mechs/ dealers have soiled the bed for the good ones. So more and more mechs and dealerships are put in the same category as used car sales people. You also should know that the hourly rate at a given shop is based on it's physical location . In the case of my fuel pump Mid Atlantic coast line and the year was 2006. if you wish to move look for the Chevy / GMC dealer in Lower Kent County Delaware you will find them they are still there and they are still considered to be shysters.

If you do not pull beds that is fine it is one way to do it that is all , in the wrong part of the country however , it would not be feasible for the salt corrosion on everything.

If you choose to get rid of your tools that make the job easier well that is on you it doesn't matter as I will end up paying book rate for a job whether you use the time saving tools or not it might mean I wait longer that is all. Oh and your boss is likely to ask you to seek employment else where if you can't complete the job in the allotted time.

I think the lightness of a vehicle is driven by the mandated fuel efficiency requirements from the feds. More power is a marketing thing and a old argument so I would not bother going into it here.
suffice to say there aren't any roads in the US with higher then say 90 mph limits so ... Not that I want a vehicle restricted to that but you can not use the more power argument with out the for what argument coming up :}

Some one here said it and I will agree before an engineer is allowed to design a car they should be forced to work on cars for two years then let them design one and go back and work on it for 2 years then they will have an appreciation for the mechanics / end users that have to fix them and design them better.

No need to be PC if some one pulls a bone head move "some idiot puts something other then atf inside their transmission." Yep I would call them a ding dong and a few other things lol same for the folks who put radiator fluid in the windshield was bottle. I do not care how much signage and warnings you put someone will still do it lol. That is the reason the instructions turn off engine and wait for the engine to cool before changing certain parts exists.

I will reiterate again it started out as just a complaint about how hard it is these days to do certain every day maintenance things on cars. It is almost giving credence to the old news story that all the big makers want to keep the shade trees from fixing their own cars .

In closing if someone Is being a ding dong fine if someone is expressing displeasure over design ease of use ,maintenance etc what is it to you . You should look at it as job security when they screw it up you get paid to fix it and have a laugh:} Have a good one .

Cypher
 
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WWheeler

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Jun 23, 2015
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Middleofnowhere USA
2000 Ford Ranger... had to pull the intake manifold off to change spark plugs. PITA!

Even more of a PITA is having done more than a few of those 98-01 Rangers (Mazda B- series) 4 cyls with 8 plugs without ever resorting to removing the intake. It's doable, but right up there with the worst of the worst as far as inaccessible plugs go.
 

S/RConcepts

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Mar 5, 2016
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Illinois
I just thought of another one- A long time ago, I had an early 80's RWD Toyota Celica with the good old 22RE FI 4 cylinder. The time came to do a fuel filter on it, which was inconveniently buried under the intake manifold- you could barely feel it with your hands, and actually seeing it was impossible. It also had the funky banjo bolt fittings that Japan seemed to really like back then. Took at least an hour for me to do that one.
 

engineer2

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Dec 13, 2009
Messages
11,825
Location
Chicago burbs
Great thread! I'll know what not to get used.
On my Honda DD's
Many Honda's to change the heater core: step 1 remove dash.
Honda Fit to change spark plugs: step 1 remove wiper arms.
 
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