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Hott as hell in steel bldg!!!

Cr0ck1

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Feb 11, 2017
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Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom FL
What do yall recommend to get my 20x20 steel bldg cooled down.

Obviously a fan. But i need i guess a vent for some cross ventilation..

In fl my bldg gets deadly hott!!!


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RivennHewn

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Insulation.

The next best is moving air. One inlet down low, outlet up high on opposite ends for good cross flow.
 

Jawn

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Stuck in traffic, GA
Insulation to keep sunshine from making it an oven. Exhaust fan up high to pull hot air out (and thus, fresh air in through an open window or door), so it won't be much hotter than outside. Not that it'd be cool outside down your way. But at least less crazy hot inside. :)
 
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Cr0ck1

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Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom FL
Ac?? Hmmm seems cool but i really would have to insulate and seal the bldg or my elec bill will be through the roof!!!


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malibu101

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Walnutport PA
Insulation to keep sunshine from making it an oven. Exhaust fan up high to pull hot air out (and thus, fresh air in through an open window or door), so it won't be much hotter than outside. Not that it'd be cool outside down your way. But at least less crazy hot inside. :)
Yep!
Insulation is a big help so the metal isn't radiating as much heat inside.

The real big help, if the building is insulated or not, is a high exhaust fan.
Heat rises, and when it can't rise anymore it equalizes down. Making the 6' off the floor you're standing on hotter than outside.
Move the high/hot air out so at least it's no more than outside temp inside.
 

mitusa

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Ac?? Hmmm seems cool but i really would have to insulate and seal the bldg or my elec bill will be through the roof!!!


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Depending on the height of your garage, It might not cost that much to run a window ac. The new ones don't cost near as much to operate as the ones in the past.

I have one in my shop. It's 32x20 with nine foot ceilings. I don't know exactly what it costs to run it; my shop runs on the same meter as my house. But it is cool and I have lots of insulation.
 

MushCreek

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What color is the outside of the building? I rented a shop once, and the big, metal, west-facing overhead door was painted dark brown! They wouldn't let me paint it, either. I made temporary panels of of 1/2" reflective covered foam, and it did knock the heat down quite a bit.
 

glentre

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Gloucester, Virginia
Think about installing a diy perforated pvc pipe along the ridge line used as a sprinkler to keep your roof wet and cool. You can run it on an intermittent timer or just at a constant low flow. This plus a high wall exhaust fan and lower supply openings should cool you down to tolerable temperatures at minimum cost.

Glen
 

astrohip

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Brenham TX
I have a 50x50 steel building. Here in SE Texas, it turns into an oven. I had closed cell spray foam installed over all four walls and the ceiling. The difference is unbelievable. I had no idea it was so effective. The only hot spots now are the OH doors.

You can stand on the west side, put one hand on the OH door, the other on the wall next to it. The wall is not even warm, the door is too hot to touch.

I was considering all sorts of ventilation ideas--fans, cross fans, soffit vents, etc. Didn't need to do any of them thanks to the insulation.

Cheap? Yeah, compared to not being able to work in my shop/barn in the middle of summer, it's cheap.
 
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EOC_Jason

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You can hire spray foam insulation which would be the best... They can also retrofit with big bats of insulation and hold it up with pins or wire. Or you can DIY with some thick duct-board, cut to the width between the purlins and use some little angle-iron brackets screwed into the purlin to hold the insulation in place.
 

egnorant

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East Texas
Been converting my East Texas Car Oven to a workable shop for a while.
I was fortunate that I had trees on the south and East side of the shop so the Sun was blocked for half the day. Ventilation and fans worked most days until afternoon heat hit.

In the afternoon the west side would be too hot to touch the metal framework of the building. Insulated the 2 West facing garage doors helped and have much more foam board insulation ready to go next week.

My theory is to A. Keep the heat away from the building with trees or material. As a Trial I had a bunch on tin roofing that I just leaned against the West side and it also helped.

B. What sunlight does hit needs to be reflected or blocked from getting inside. Reflective paint, radiant barrier and insulating layer is to be my secondary fortification.

C. Air management is important. I do a lot of stuff that I want outside airflow for fumes, smoke, humidity or just cooling. My 4 foot shop fan is wonderful and can stand outside and still pump enough air to change the air often. My next most used is an old AC squirrel cage blower on a Harbor Freight roller thing to direct air around the shop.

I'm just kinda cheap and see a lot of spaces where people work real hard to remove the heat while I seek ways to keep the heat from getting in in the first place.

Bruce
 

readhead

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I would say that spray foam is the best option but some problems have come to light that may change that. If the foam is being applied directly to the back of the metal panels most metal suppliers will void the warranty. There have been problems with damage to the metal from chemical reactions to early rust through that have been identified. This is a fairly new problem since there has been little history for this application since it has become popular.

Another issue is repairing and modifying a building that has spray foam. Replacing a damaged sheet is nearly impossible. I have run into that problem first hand and it is not pretty. What should have been a simple one hour job for two guys turned into a day and a half. Roof leaks are going undetected until structural damage becomes apparent.

I used to recommend spray foam for some of the metal buildings we erected but no more. This may shape up to be the next efis disaster. I have read some articles where the solution has been to fir and resheet the entire building and leave the original metal in place. Some are experimenting with some kind of slip sheet inside to separate the foam from the metal.

For now stick with the known insulation strategies and have piece of mind.
 

readhead

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Buy all the fans you want but without insulation it will be a loosing battle. Rigid insulation will probably be the easiest to install. Start with the roof and work down to the walls as money allows.
 
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Cr0ck1

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Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom FL
Think Ima start with this fan.
9704b90e09a995b7326ddb76283cd0ab.jpg



http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200459657_200459657?hotline=false


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readhead

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Remember that if you blow it out new air has to come in. That can be a window, door or a intake vent. Venting can go very wrong if you aren't careful. Keep it as high as possible. If it is a hundred degrees outside you will be pulling in hundred degree air. Without insulation the coolest it will be is a hundred degrees.
 

PAToyota

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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
First thing is to paint the roof a light color - white, silver, etc. I’ll bet your roof temperature is 20~50℉ over ambient temperatures on a sunny day. With that sort of heat, fans and venting aren’t going to do a lot. Think of a dark car on a hot day.

From there, insulation is the next step. Just as insulation keeps the warmth in during cold weather, it keeps the heat out during warm weather. Again, whatever you’re heating the building itself up to, it is then radiating that heat into the space.
 

2012Eli3

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Northwest Indiana
Hired 1" closed cell spray foam insulation on my 32x56x14'6"high metal building with dark brown roof and dark brown insulated OH doors, metal ceiling R-40 blown in cellulose. Cost around $3800. On 80 degree day, inside building is 7 to 8 degrees cooler with no fans. I nailed up 1.5" Owens corning rigid foam on inside of girts before the spray foam applied so no issues with anything harming or interfering with replacing metal later. Check several spray foam/insulation contractors in your area(90 mile radius) it will probably be cheaper than you think to get 2" of closed cell spray foam and they will have ideas for protecting you steel. The contractor that did mine came from rural area 80 miles away
 

MushCreek

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Dark Green is one of the BEST colors for absorbing solar energy. In other words, it's painted specifically to get hot. First up, paint it a light, reflective color. They might even make special paint to reflect heat better.
 

Keel

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I can't wrap my head around the cost of spray in insulation.. It's so high, and is 1/4 the labor..
The shed I built for my compressor and some storage I used a metal roof and it got really hot, I put a 2nd metal roof layer it using pieces of 2x4 between them to make an air space the shed is much cooler now..
 
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Cr0ck1

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Feb 11, 2017
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Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom FL
I can't wrap my head around the cost of spray in insulation.. It's so high, and is 1/4 the labor..

The shed I built for my compressor and some storage I used a metal roof and it got really hot, I put a 2nd metal roof layer it using pieces of 2x4 between them to make an air space the shed is much cooler now..



Right? Its just sprayed on.. i doubt they prep the surface!

The materials must cost alot.

I seen a vid of a guy doing a steel bldg. took like 3 hours..


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EOC_Jason

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Painting your roof white might help some... It seems small enough & low enough ceiling you could just get one of those big fans and stick it in the rollup doorway. I don't think there is much else you could do besides insulating.

http://www.metalbuildinginsulation.com/insulation-ceilings.html

^^^ That's just a quick search I did via "retrofit insulation metal building"... See how they put the batts in then have straps or wire across to hold it in place? That's probably going to be your best long-term solution for both summer & winter...
 

Bronson

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Texas panhandle
Whats something like that cost? Its called spray insulation?


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I had my 30x40 x12 spray foamed walls and ceiling, it was around $4500, 12 years ago. Double pane windows and insulted walk doors and one insulated overhead door.
Best money I ever spent, warm in winter, I spend about $50 a month to heat it with nat gas unit heater, to 70F.
In summer, I keep it cool with a swamp cooler.:thumbup:
 
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