28x40 3 Car Barn/Garage Build Thread

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Insulated trap door for over the stairwell. Built it with 16 oc 2x4s and ply on both sides. very sturdy, You can walk on it like its the floor for when you open up the sliding door on the end to bring stuff up. Insulated with R13 batts. Taped the ply seams and put weather gasket around the edge to stop air leakage to upstairs. The door is probably 150 pounds, I built a pulley system with wieghts and its very easy to push up now, works awesome.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

First pic is the pulley that I will be hanging from the Hay Post on the end of the building. I need to sand blast it and paint it black first. Next pic is the window on the front of the garage. I trimmed out over the top of the window with lead flashing. I plan to do this with all the windows except for the transoms over the garage door. I think it looks awesome, real old school look. I routed out a 1/8 inch slot with my router and a 1/8inch plunge bit into the siding above the top trim piece. I routed 3/8 inch deep and slipped the lead into the slot and used folded over lead jammed into the slot to hold the lead in place. I then taped off above the lead on the siding and on the lead with painters tape, then ran a bead of chaulking to seal everything up then removed the tape leaving a nice bead of chaulk, very clean.Then I painted the chaulk red to match the siding. I built the end sliding barn door. I made it as one large door and then cut it in half. When it opens it splits left and right.

 

[TimNY1984]

I'm sorry to tell you this..... but you just MADE MY DAY!!!! i can't put in words how awesome it is that you put actual detailed numbers up for your foundation. BEST POST EVER! Maybe it's relating very closely to my build and that's why it's such a huge help, but thank you a ton!

and that insulated door for upstairs? i did almost the same thing for my house for the walk up attic. Well thanks again, i hope my future build is half as nice as yours. I'll be visiting this thread extremely often during my build.

Tim

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks Tim. I am glad to answer any questions. I'm not shy at all about costs either so don't shy away from asking. I got 5 or 6 quotes for te foundation. They were all over the map. Some as high as 10k for a mono slab. I choose this guy because he is also a fireman(different city) so I felt I could trust him and his price was the best. A couple others had 8k for walls and floor. He did the dirt work and the concrete work.

 

[TimNY1984]

I'm back with some more questions. I see you went with the Zip wall system, any reason for choosing that over normal OSB and wrap? I'm weighing the pros and cons since i'll be building it myself. Did the shiplap siding make the zip system the better choice? Final question for now, any idea what the cost was for the sheathing part of the build?

Tim

 

[diiulio]

I like it, few questions.
I see the wall with the garage doors don't seem to be braced or the sides having 1x4's let into the framing. Inspector didn't have any issues with that?

With the 2x10 rafters, what is the depth of the eave, 12"? and height of the fascia, 8"?
I am going to start a similar structure this month and just want to make sure my aesthetics look right.

Is there only one rafter tie on each rafter or is there one on each side?

 

[Kaizen]

I'm back with some more questions. I see you went with the Zip wall system, any reason for choosing that over normal OSB and wrap? I'm weighing the pros and cons since i'll be building it myself. Did the shiplap siding make the zip system the better choice? Final question for now, any idea what the cost was for the sheathing part of the build?



Tim

Just my input. Zip has a six month warentee against water damage. So if building alone and know it's going to take time it's worth it. You have to use their rubber tape as well. This creates an air tight shell. As I didn't spring for slab heat this no air movement was important. Make sure you add in the cost of the tape. Like fifty bucks a roll. I used four just in the walls. Still have to do my roof. I just got 5/8th zip from Lowes and it's t&g so no need for clips


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I'm back with some more questions. I see you went with the Zip wall system, any reason for choosing that over normal OSB and wrap? I'm weighing the pros and cons since i'll be building it myself. Did the shiplap siding make the zip system the better choice? Final question for now, any idea what the cost was for the sheathing part of the build?

Tim

I am planning to heat the garage, that being said I would like to use as little energy as possible to do so. The zip wall with tape does a very nice job of creating an air tight wall. Second reason was ease of doing it by myself, tyvek is more or less a two person job. Third was SHIPLAP siding, water is likely to make it around the laps during some wind driven rain event and the fact that it very good at standing up to a little water that might make it to it. The last factor was the fact that I knew I wouldn't get to siding it for a few months. I'm not sure of the cost but the tape is 90 feet long and $25 per roll. Each sheet gets 12 feet of tape. So you get about 7 sheets out of a roll. The tape is also used for sealing around door and window openings. I think I went through 12-14 rolls on the whole building.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I like it, few questions.
I see the wall with the garage doors don't seem to be braced or the sides having 1x4's let into the framing. Inspector didn't have any issues with that?

With the 2x10 rafters, what is the depth of the eave, 12"? and height of the fascia, 8"?
I am going to start a similar structure this month and just want to make sure my aesthetics look right.

Is there only one rafter tie on each rafter or is there one on each side?

Let in braces to the left and right of the respected garage door openings to prevent sideways sheer? Above the three doors there is almost solid framing across the entire wall, I though about putting horizontal blocking to extend the stability of the headers across whole wall. I have not done that but I did use a 4 inch oc nailing schedule on the edges and the field of the osb across whole front wall of the building. That is what code calls for in wind prone areas that require sheer walls. Our inspector is very lax, he hasn't been out to look at the project yet. So far it has survived the winter with over a 1 1/2 feet of snow on it at times, quite the wind(50+ mph bursts) and a
Cement truck that drove into( straight into the front wall, no shear forces put on it) with no issues that I could find yet.

So as far as the rafters go, since I obviously have no cielings joists that I can utilize as rafters ties I went with the tie back method you see. I found this method on a framing site as well as
So a garage done almost identical to mine locally where they only used hurricane ties, not the heavy gauge straps like I did and that buildin has been up for 10 years so far without issue. So what I did. I used a 2x8 plate which I glued down to he deck as well as nailed down as well as used timber locks to pull down into each I joist below. Then I landed each rafter on top of the plate toe nailing it from each side 3 times. I then used the tie back twist straps to mechanically tie back the rafter to the plate. I also hurricane tied them down which I know doesn't provide any tie back strength but I used them incase of any uplift shear. I made sure to inspect the system periodically through the winter as haven't seen anything concerning.

As you can see by the pics I framed out the Facia front with a 2x4 since if I cut my rafters off vertically the eaves would have been very shallow. I'll have to measure it all tomorrow and let you know.

 

[diiulio]

Thanks. It looks good.
The 2x4 looks good. My architect told me 6" fascia and 12" overhang looks right, but I like 4" on your building.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks. It looks good.
The 2x4 looks good. My architect told me 6" fascia and 12" overhang looks right, but I like 4" on your building.

My remark about the 2x4 was misleading. The facia is nailed to 2x4 framing that used to extend down the rafter tails. I still haven't got up to measuring them but I will take pics with my phone so you can see what each is. I think your architect was close to the same measurements that I have.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Facia

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Facia under drip edge was cut at 2 inches. I then placed te drip edge on the roof sheathing to find where it was going to land with the Facia and adjusted that 2 inch board so that 1 1/2 inches would be exposed. The bottom board was cut to 8 inches I think. You have to remember that this board will hang down 1 1/2 inches below the soffit framing which is because the soffit trim is 3/4 thick then you want that Facia to hang down another 3/4 below that soffit trim. When I was figuring out how far to drop the rough soffit framing down from the roof
Sheathing I placed the drip edge on the roof sheathing and did some measuring and figuring with that Facia profile mocked up with a 1 foot section of it.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

The soffit underside I used 2 7 1/4 width boards I think. Placed the first one right out against the Facia board and ran it all th way down. Then came back and slipped the vent in and placed the inside soffit board up. I left it about a 1/4 inch out from the siding. I then came back through with a freeze board and placed that on to cover that small gap left between the soffit trim and the siding.

 

[diiulio]

Great. Thank you for taking the time to do that.
Jason

 

[jhasafety1]

How much did the complete building cost?

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I'm not done yet, but I am getting closer. So I got windows and garage doors last week so I am close to being closed up, then will come electrical, insulation and sheet rock.

Breakdown as follows

Dirt work and fill $2700

Footer and frost walls $5000

4 inch floor @ 4k psi with wire mesh $2700

Vapor barrier, 2 inches xps insulation under slab and radiant tubing $1600

Framing, sheathing and fasteners around $10,000

Roof around $1500

Siding and trim $2400

5 pella insulated aluminum clad windows $2200

1 insulated man door $250

Three 9x9 garage doors $2800

$31,000 with those items.

Lots of misc. costs here and there that got put on a credit card and missed I'm sure but that's the vast majority

 

[GRivera]

Nice garage and decent price!!

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks, things do add up quick. Glad I did everything except the concrete.

 

[jhasafety1]

Thanks for updating us on your cost, I waiting for the rain to give me a window to start the dirt work. Your post have helped me through the decision process.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I'll post some more pics when I get a chance but the garage doors are painted and installed. I also trimmed them out this week. The 10 foot pieces of lead flashing was fun to do by myself.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

More pics

 

[65cayne]

More pics

Very nice work. Really captures that character we call New England. Given what you assembled, your costs seem quite reasonable.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks, I had to do quite a bit of price negotiating and pitting dealers and lumber yards against each other in competition. Garage doors I negotiated down about $300 per door from original quotes. Shingles I had to go with the big orange box store because the lumber yard prices on that stuff was way high. The I joists I negotiated down from around $5 per foot to around $3.50 per foot. The shiplap I went to a supplier that is right down the street from the mill which got me a cost of .87 per foot down from 1.25 per foot from the lumber yard. The Windows I went with was a "builders grade" in a common size which knocked about $100 off per window. Lots of calling and foot work but it has saved me a lot so far.

 

[MAINEGUY]

Next weekend I am beginning to frame my 32x40x12 building that I will be sheathing and siding the exact way you have done yours and had a few questions.

What is the mesh you applied to the very bottom of the zip plywood? It almost looks like mesh drywall tape?

When you spliced boards to get the longer vertical height sections I assumed you cut the joints a 45 degree angle?

Did you consider adding 3/4" styrofoam insulation between the nailing batts your siding nails to?

Any "Lessons Learned" along the siding process you may not have already shared with us?

Thank you very much for posting so much of your process as it has really solidified my thought process of how I was planning on doing things and how much $$ I was expecting to spend. I'm only in Maine so our material costs are very similar based on my quotes.

Eric

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

The mesh looking stuff is likely the same grid size as drywall mesh tape but I found it at lowes in the screen section. I think it was 8 inches wide by 50 feet long. I cut the roll in half with the miter saw so I had two rolls of 4 inch wide screen. It was to keep bugs and mice from making their way behind the siding from below.

I think I used 22.5 as the miter angle for splices.

I wanted the backside of te siding to have a good air gap for drainage and air movement for drying of any wind driven rain that makes it's way around the siding lap joints. That is also why I stood the nailers off the sheathing itself with the plastic corrugated strips that you see in the pics between the nailers and the wall sheathing. I got those 4x8 sheets of corrugated plastic from Home Depot.

As far as siding goes are you planning to paint or stain or leave natural?

I used stainless steel 2 inch ring shank siding nails in a siding gun to nail them. I also modified a large plastic framing square as a nailing template jig for the siding nailer. This put the nails at the same spacing and I lined it up with the nailer boards to keep the nails at the same height across. I can post a pic of that tomorrow.

I would deffinitly go with 1x12 for a width on the similar sized building. Anything more narrow I think wouldn't look good and would look like t-111 siding.

When you space out your nailing strips I went with 2 foot on center spacing. Where I screwed up was I ran the boards down beyond the foundation 3 inches and then the first nailer was 3 inches up from the top of the foundation. This caused me to always be 6 inches short of each two foot on center nailer. Make sure that you place you second nailer up the wall two feet up from where your siding starts and then set your two foot on center off that second nailer, not the first nailer at the bottom of the sheathing.

I bought rough cut 1x pine for the nailers and ripped it down to 1x2. 3/4 inch thick nailers I think would be to thin.

Think about how you plan to install your windows. If you plan to nail the nailing fin right to the SHIPLAP siding then make sure above each window you place drip cap taped right to the sheathing underneath the siding so that any water that gets behind the siding and comes down the sheathing gets diverted around the window opening and doesn't land on top of the window. If you plan on attaching the window to the sheathing directly and then using an extension jamb to bring out the jam to the depth of the siding plan on where to put your nailing strips around the windows.

 

[MAINEGUY]

The mesh looking stuff is likely the same grid size as drywall mesh tape but I found it at lowes in the screen section. I think it was 8 inches wide by 50 feet long. I cut the roll in half with the miter saw so I had two rolls of 4 inch wide screen. It was to keep bugs and mice from making their way behind the siding from below.

I figured it must have had to do with pest control.


I think I used 22.5 as the miter angle for splices.

That makes more sense actually

I wanted the backside of te siding to have a good air gap for drainage and air movement for drying of any wind driven rain that makes it's way around the siding lap joints. That is also why I stood the nailers off the sheathing itself with the plastic corrugated strips that you see in the pics between the nailers and the wall sheathing. I got those 4x8 sheets of corrugated plastic from Home Depot.

I didn't notice that corrugated material so I'll go back and look closer at your pics.

As far as siding goes are you planning to paint or stain or leave natural?

I am actually visiting a local mill tomorrow to decide on material. I am waffling back and forth between hemlock and pine but either way I will likely just seal it if I use pine and if I use hemlock I may just let it weather naturally.

I used stainless steel 2 inch ring shank siding nails in a siding gun to nail them. I also modified a large plastic framing square as a nailing template jig for the siding nailer. This put the nails at the same spacing and I lined it up with the nailer boards to keep the nails at the same height across. I can post a pic of that tomorrow.

I was thinking something similar with a framing square or a large speed square I have. I figured you must have used something as your nail lines looked perfectly straight.

I would deffinitly go with 1x12 for a width on the similar sized building. Anything more narrow I think wouldn't look good and would look like t-111 siding.

When you space out your nailing strips I went with 2 foot on center spacing. Where I screwed up was I ran the boards down beyond the foundation 3 inches and then the first nailer was 3 inches up from the top of the foundation. This caused me to always be 6 inches short of each two foot on center nailer. Make sure that you place you second nailer up the wall two feet up from where your siding starts and then set your two foot on center off that second nailer, not the first nailer at the bottom of the sheathing.

I bought rough cut 1x pine for the nailers and ripped it down to 1x2. 3/4 inch thick nailers I think would be to thin.

Think about how you plan to install your windows. If you plan to nail the nailing fin right to the SHIPLAP siding then make sure above each window you place drip cap taped right to the sheathing underneath the siding so that any water that gets behind the siding and comes down the sheathing gets diverted around the window opening and doesn't land on top of the window. If you plan on attaching the window to the sheathing directly and then using an extension jamb to bring out the jam to the depth of the siding plan on where to put your nailing strips around the windows.

It may sound crazy to some but I am only putting (2) 10x10's, (1) 10x12 (gotta get my backhoe inside sometimes) and a single man door. No windows or glass in this building for me.

As others have said you're are very thorough and open with your responses and I appreciate all your insight.

Thanks again!

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

If you go with anything other than letting it weather natural I would suggest pre treating all six sides ( front, back, laps, bottom and top) so that the wood is "stabil" and any moisture that makes it's way into the wood during different times of the year will also leave the wood at the same rate on all sides. I was told this really helps to keep the wood from cupping which can be common with this type of siding.



I meant a large speed square(plastic) not framing square.

As far as the corrugated plastic, I used 3 1/4 nails to attach the nailers to the siding but actually went back after and used 4 inch screws to attach every other nailer on the way up with screws because I was afraid that over time the plastic might allow for the nailers to pivot down with all the weight from the siding causing issues. I don't know if it would have ever been an issue but it was cheap insurance to know that it would never happen.

No windows makes construction a little easier. I would have liked to go 32 deep. That would have been really nice. I was constrained by a drop off behind the building, I probably should have brought in a bunch of fill and gone 30x40 but that is water under the bridge at this point.

 

[shortykorte]

I like the classic look of your barn. Vintage outside, new inside. An uncorked bobbed Valkyrie running on the dark side would look cool in there. (not mine)

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks, I wanted it to fit in with my house which was built in 1795. I wanted to use a granite block facade on the foundation to make it look like it was built on granite like my house. Logistically and price wise I decide to forget about it,still think it would have looked awesome though.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Jig for siding

 

[MAINEGUY]

Jig for siding

So is there any reason you chose the "Nickel Gap" type ship lap over a flush joint. Wouldn't that have reduced your concerns over wind driven rain possibly getting behind the siding?

Also when you purchased the siding did you buy an already milled "Unit" of siding with random lengths or did you specify the quantity of each length you wanted? The yard I am working with for my siding is steering me toward a unit with random lengths, 90% of which are over the 10' to 16' size range. This is also a 10" product but with no nickel gap so the vertical joints will somewhat blend in.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I'm not familiar with the term nickel gap. Are those laps that on one side are a 1/2 inch and the other lap on the other side is 3/8 so that they are self gapping? My shiplap had 1/2 inch on laps on both sides so I manually gapped it. You need to leave a gap for expansion and contraction during different times of the year. If you don't gap it will bow out when they expand together. I got a skid of 10s, 12s, 14s and 16s. My back wall was 12 feet so I told them I needed more than 400 square feet of 12 footers and the rest I didn't care. I ended up with 1/3 12s 1/3 16s and then the rest was 10s and 14s. I ended up with 100 sqft of waste but I was careful with planning and reusing cut offs. Any reason you want tneed go with 10 inch instead of 12 inch?

 

[MAINEGUY]

I'm not familiar with the term nickel gap. Are those laps that on one side are a 1/2 inch and the other lap on the other side is 3/8 so that they are self gapping? My shiplap had 1/2 inch on laps on both sides so I manually gapped it. You need to leave a gap for expansion and contraction during different times of the year. If you don't gap it will bow out when they expand together. I got a skid of 10s, 12s, 14s and 16s. My back wall was 12 feet so I told them I needed more than 400 square feet of 12 footers and the rest I didn't care. I ended up with 1/3 12s 1/3 16s and then the rest was 10s and 14s. I ended up with 100 sqft of waste but I was careful with planning and reusing cut offs. Any reason you want tneed go with 10 inch instead of 12 inch?

Yes Nickel Gap is when you have a smaller lap on one side than the other creating a nickel width gap between the boards.

I guess I was thinking that with Kiln Dried boards the shrinkage would be minimal and I would **** the joints up tight and keep my nails an inch and a half or so from the edges of the boards.

As far as board size, 10" seems to be what the most of the yards around here stock and sell the most of. Since my walls are going to be 12'6" on top of my foundation I'll need a lot of 14's to cover the back side with no splice joints. Not sure it's that big of a deal though since it's the back of the building. I can buy an ~2500 lineal foot "Unit" for around .76/foot in random lengths but mostly 10's, 12's, 14's and 16's.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Yeah this is not nickel gap. You will have less shrinkage with kiln dried( mine was kiln dried) but it will expand and contract depending on the humidity. I don't think I would **** them tight.

Not sure what you are doing for soffits and how far that will get you down onto the wall to take up some of that 12 6". I went with 12 4" curling from the garage floor and not the frost wall top. I dropped the siding down 3 inches below the top of the frost wall. I was 2 inches short of hitting the soffit on the top with 12 footers so I just added a 1x4 freeze board under the soffit all the way across and that covered the 2 inches that I was short.

I got my 1x12 for I think 86 cents a foot. It obviously covers more than the 1x10 and probably about evens out in price. If the building is large which I believe you said it is then I would like at 1x12s personally. With the building so big the 1x10 will probably look like t111 siding. How many sqft do you have for walls? I had 1700 sqft to cover and bought 2000 sqft. Ended up with 200 left over(only 100 of waste) and I used that to do about 50% of my trim. Ended up buying another $400 worth of 1x8 and 1x10 to finish up.

 

[Kent Skinner]

Beautiful shop; I'll be referencing this thread while planning mine.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Wow! Somehow I missed this build when it was first posted., that'a a beautiful building. I love the details you've put into the place.

 

[69gp]

Stairs. If I were to do it again I would add a fourth stringer. I think it would have stiffened it up some. I didn't want a mid span knee wall to help shore it up(which it needed, very bouncy). So I added that hanging brace between midspan and the I joist above. That took 90% of the bounce out. I then lagged the stringer closes to the wall into on of the Studs. This took another 5% bounce out. Just barely any movement now. If it was living space above and you went up and down the stairs all day I would do something else but it is totally fine for a garage. I went with a 10 inch tread and a 8 5/16 rise. I was worried it was to much because I was getting away from the 17 1/2 inch rule but also for a garage it works fine. I also didnt want to add a fourth step after the landing and a turn which would bring the stairs even further out into the garage space. This was a happy compromise.

you can add a 2x4 or 2x6 along the side of the stair stringers to add both strength and also take some of the bounce out of the stairs. red area is where you can add bracing.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the kind words. I had not thought about adding some additional 2x to each stringer to stiffen them up. I think I will d