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PghJKB

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That grinder was made by Kingston-Conley (they made many grinders for other companies), and you're right that it is as/more powerful than your block grinders. I used the 1/2hp version for my "Frankenstein" belt grinder, and it is by far more powerful than any 7"-8" grinder I own. I would suggest that you replace the bearings as they will be dried out, and revarnish the windings, to get another lifetime from that fine machine.

Here are two images of my Blue Point. Looks a lot like Bagged's.

Mine is missing the shields and some other parts....

JKB
 

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bagged89s10

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That grinder was made by Kingston-Conley (they made many grinders for other companies), and you're right that it is as/more powerful than your block grinders. I used the 1/2hp version for my "Frankenstein" belt grinder, and it is by far more powerful than any 7"-8" grinder I own. I would suggest that you replace the bearings as they will be dried out, and revarnish the windings, to get another lifetime from that fine machine.



What do you mean revarnish the windings?
 

exmaxima1

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What do you mean revarnish the windings?

The idea is to coat the existing wires with fresh varnish to better insulate them, as well as improve reliability. What I did with mine was remove the stator/windings from the case, blow out all dust, and spray them with polyurethane varnish. I gave it a number of coats as I didn't want the windings to be able to vibrate or buzz. Worked fine. If you were more ambitious, you could dip the whole assembly in a bucket of varnish with a sealed lid, and fashion a means to draw as much vacuum as you could on it for a few minutes. That would expel most of the trapped air, and offer the best impregnation of the varnish. I do that with vintage output transformers, but didn't bother with my grinder motor since the original windings were pretty good.
 

ALLFAST

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That's a fine WT score !

Im.not sure if this is appropriate to post here: This is an old mongrel at work. While the stand says Baldor, they didn't leave the factory as a set.

There are no labels or ID marks on the grinder. It's super heavy and well made. The red spray paint is not original as Im told. Any thoughts on the make and era. The guards are heavy castings.

I'm working on a potential deal with my manager to provide a new good quality version (even an import) with good eye shields and lights...and trading across for this red beast. A unit with more safety features is desired !!!
 

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torqueman2002

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That's a fine WT score !

Im.not sure if this is appropriate to post here: This is an old mongrel at work. While the stand says Baldor, they didn't leave the factory as a set.

There are no labels or ID marks on the grinder. It's super heavy and well made. The red spray paint is not original as Im told. Any thoughts on the make and era. The guards are heavy castings.

I'm working on a potential deal with my manager to provide a new good quality version (even an import) with good eye shields and lights...and trading across for this red beast. A unit with more safety features is desired !!!
I'm not sure, it maybe the red paint, but I think it resembles a 1-HP Milwaukee I have.
FIP1000011.jpg


FIP1000013.jpg


I don't recall who the actual manufacturer is. Anyone recall?
 

exmaxima1

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I'm not sure, it maybe the red paint, but I think it resembles a 1-HP Milwaukee I have.
FIP1000011.jpg


FIP1000013.jpg


I don't recall who the actual manufacturer is. Anyone recall?

I think you nailed it, except for the curious notches in the tops of the OP's guards. Your Milwaukee is a Doerr grinder (aka, Dayton). Sure looks close!
 

bagged89s10

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The idea is to coat the existing wires with fresh varnish to better insulate them, as well as improve reliability. What I did with mine was remove the stator/windings from the case, blow out all dust, and spray them with polyurethane varnish. I gave it a number of coats as I didn't want the windings to be able to vibrate or buzz. Worked fine. If you were more ambitious, you could dip the whole assembly in a bucket of varnish with a sealed lid, and fashion a means to draw as much vacuum as you could on it for a few minutes. That would expel most of the trapped air, and offer the best impregnation of the varnish. I do that with vintage output transformers, but didn't bother with my grinder motor since the original windings were pretty good.



Can I just use any clear coat like rustoleum?
 

bagged89s10

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You have to consider the heat, and polyurethane is better. It's pretty much what is used as electrical insulation. God only knows what material is in Rustoleum "clear coat"....



So just like spray on or brush on polyurethane such as Minwax?
 

dngrmse

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Bagged, look up "Insulating varnish" it's specifically for electrical windings and components. Nice pickup by the way!
 

exmaxima1

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Doerr, Dayton, Milwaukee, ..... :willy_nil

How do you keep it all straight?? :eyecrazy:

Thanks.

Doerr is the actual manufacturer.
They sold grinders under their own name, but made many more for others such as Dayton (Grainger's house brand), Milwaukee, Blue Point (Snap On), Rockwell, etc. Ultimately, Grainger bought Doerr so you see the vast majority as Dayton grinders and motors.

There were only a handful of makers of grinders (Baldor, Doerr, Wissota, and a few others) so you usually see common elements in their products. I mostly like to keep it straight regarding Doerr and Wissota, as many times they get confused. Both are excellent products and deserve credit where due.
 

exmaxima1

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Here are two images of my Blue Point. Looks a lot like Bagged's.

Mine is missing the shields and some other parts....

JKB

Judging from the design of the base, yours looks like a bigger brother at 1/2hp. It doesn't have the 4 cutouts in the front/back of base. Same as I used for my Frankenstein grinder. Those are great machines and worth holding onto.
 

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martinez.ernie

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Y'all give me hope for my Craftsman 103.6604 grinder I just picked up from a nice widow lady. 66e0fca9dfb0ad712e897a5f650319f9.jpg
Her husband used to build flintlock rifles from scratch, hence the fancy minutely adjustable holding mechanism attached to the grinding wheel. Haven't cleaned up the motor yet, so don't know what it is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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cybrdyke

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Here's one I found recently. I actually started another thread about this one, which was probably a mistake. I didn't know this "Show us..." thread was alive.:dunno:
So, it's a little thing, with 4" wheels, and I haven't been able to find any info on Allied Hardware or AHS on Google. It must be vintage, because it says "Chicago 54, Illinois".
It works fine. I took it apart and cleaned it up as well as I could. Finding wheels is a struggle, so any directions would be appreciated. I know from trial and error that the wheel cant be indented around the arbor area, like alot of grinder wheels are.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this little guy?
grinder2_zpsb4uvgkic.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]



Thanks
CD
 

Outlawmws

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Most likely made for Allied Hardware on contract. so your key to a real ID is the unique shape.

I keep thinking "Thor" for some reason (I don't own one...), but thats what my brain keeps gravitating to...

4" grinding wheels may be a bit tough to find and probably internet only. Wire wheels I think Ace has, the BB's probaly not...
 

exmaxima1

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Does anyone have any thoughts about this little guy?
grinder2_zpsb4uvgkic.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

2 amp shaded pole motor....it certainly won't take too much effort to stop that one. to put that in perspective, even the smallest shaded-pole Thors were around 6 amps. But I'm guessing the price was under $5, so it's a nice toy.
 
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meatsis

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Hudson Valley NY
here's one i found recently. I actually started another thread about this one, which was probably a mistake. I didn't know this "show us..." thread was alive.:dunno:
So, it's a little thing, with 4" wheels, and i haven't been able to find any info on allied hardware or ahs on google. It must be vintage, because it says "chicago 54, illinois".
It works fine. I took it apart and cleaned it up as well as i could. Finding wheels is a struggle, so any directions would be appreciated. I know from trial and error that the wheel cant be indented around the arbor area, like alot of grinder wheels are.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this little guy?
grinder2_zpsb4uvgkic.jpg
[/url][/img]



thanks
cd


IMG_6041.jpg

IMG_6042.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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2 amp shaded pole motor....it certainly won't take too much effort to stop that one. to put that in perspective, even the smallest shaded-pole Thors were around 6 amps. But I'm guessing the price was under $5, so it's a nice toy.

Agreed VERY light duty but with 4" can't expect much else...

I kind of like having small one around for very delicate and light work. I need to resurrect one of mine for lantern work. Heck I could probably use it in the house... Nah!!!! SWMBO would be like :willy_nil :evil:


Thanks for the confirmation Meatsis!
 

exmaxima1

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Well clearly you found the Thor version of that grinder! Up 'til now the smallest I've seen was the Thor 1/4hp model at 7.5amps----which illustrates just how inefficient those shaded pole motors are. I wonder how little power this 4" model must be. Maybe like a decent record player motor??
 

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cybrdyke

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I keep thinking "Thor" for some reason

2 amp shaded pole motor....


Well clearly you found the Thor version of that grinder!

You guys are amazing! I spent a few hours googling and surfing the web and found NOTHING! Guess I should've known to come here first. :rocker:
Outlaw- the fact that you picked out thor is amazing!:thumbup:
Exmax-knew the motor & it's limitations:thumbup:
and then MEAT comes in with a PHOTO!!!:thumbup:
Outstanding!!!:beer:

It sounds like maybe this thing is powerful enough for a good manicure? or to polish the silverware? I'm assuming it was made for a hobbyist or a model fan.
Thanks so much!
CD
 

Outlawmws

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Other light work also, jewelry, watches, small gun parts, anything you don't want to heat up too much ('cause you will stall it if you d=try to dig too deep/hard).
 

Shiftless

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cybrdyke:
Thanks for posting that cute little grinder in this little corner of GJ. And thanks for sharing so much of your great knowledge and expertise over on the lighting thread. I for one have learned much from you.
 

6pony6

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VA
I picked up my first bench grinder today. I've done some vise restorations, but this will be my first ever grinder resto. Got it for $20.

I plugged it in when I got it home and everything works, even the light. Now I just need to figure out where to start. I have a lot of reading to do.
 

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macgee

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I picked up my first bench grinder today. I've done some vise restorations, but this will be my first ever grinder resto. Got it for $20.

I plugged it in when I got it home and everything works, even the light. Now I just need to figure out where to start. I have a lot of reading to do.

That was a great deal especially for a 1/2 hp.

Before trying to restoring it, I would try a valiant effort to clean it up as best as possible first with the current orig. paint job, it actually looks pretty good and wouldn't be surprised if it starts to proudly shine after some elbow grease and polish.

I've restored several of these and they're not always as easy as may think when done properly especially when you include the lamp. The paint looks to be in great shape and I don't see any major rust of damage. I do see that your missing the right tool rest but I'm sure you could score one off another GJ member.
 

cajunfirehawk

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I picked up my first bench grinder today. I've done some vise restorations, but this will be my first ever grinder resto. Got it for $20.
I plugged it in when I got it home and everything works, even the light. Now I just need to figure out where to start. I have a lot of reading to do.
Yeah, you double ****; nice block haul and nice stang :beer:
I give ya $50 just for the light shade! :thumbup:
 

KFTC

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My 88 year old father gave me his father's old bench grinder. My Dad had not used it in years. Many thanks to Pupuhd for his detailed grinder rebuild posts. He is selflessness in taking the time to inform and educate, in a simple step-by-step process.

The grinder had a date 4-2-24 on the bottom, and it lubricates in two different ways on each side of the motor. One side is by felt stick and the other side is by wool roving. The old wicks were removed and replaced with new.

It now runs like it is brand new!!!
 

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Outlawmws

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Without guards or rests, I would urge you to relegate Great Grand Dad's "grinder" to polishing wheels, maybe wire wheel with a partial guard that can be part of a wood base you can add.

If one of the grinding wheels ever unloaded with no guard, it would likely be ER time
 

macgee

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Without guards or rests, I would urge you to relegate Great Grand Dad's "grinder" to polishing wheels, maybe wire wheel with a partial guard that can be part of a wood base you can add.

If one of the grinding wheels ever unloaded with no guard, it would likely be ER time

I totally concur with Outlaw.


Also, that was not originally made as a grinder but was intended to be a polisher as it has the long spindles and no facility to accept guards or tool rests. Throw a wire or bristle wheel and polish wheel and that would an awesome piece of machinery. It would be much better that way.

I wish I had one of those. Enjoy
 
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