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G-ManBart

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Does this help?

34222787875_b973a8afa2_z_d.jpg

Yes. There are some vises like yours that don't have a center hole, and used the two lockdowns directly on the outer ring like yours. My C3 is like that as well. The majority have a center hole for a pin that's on the inner ring.

I fit a new assembly on an identical C3 to mine yesterday by taking the center pin out. The outer ring seats on a recess on the bottom of the body of the vise, so you don't need the center pin and the inner ring has the teeth that engage the teeth on the outer ring. I'll measure the base on my C3 to make sure it's the same.

That appears to be the setup used on some C3s, 1780s and some 600S.

If it is, Autopts can get you the same assembly.
 
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joe.striper

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Bought this Reed 4CA this morning at 8am in Newport RI. I never saw one before I bought this one. 6" jawx, 160 lbs.

Tore it down completely and rebuilt it to the last nut. Having an oven for the paint is such a huge timesaver. It is a nice quality vise.

I paid $100 for it.
 

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vintage nut

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Very nice!
It looks a lot lighter than any reed combination vise I've seen though. I'm guessing the A part has something to do with that?

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rusty65

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Very nice!
It looks a lot lighter than any reed combination vise I've seen though. I'm guessing the A part has something to do with that?

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That's a newer reed vise made by Columbian for Reed. Probably like 1980s to present. Also very nice restoration as usual Joe.

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vintage nut

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That's a newer reed vise made by Columbian for Reed. Probably like 1980s to present. Also very nice restoration as usual Joe.

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I assumed something like that. I've seen a few older reed combination vises, and they're anything but light.

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VISEs

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IMG_0897.JPGIMG_0902.JPGView attachment 1IMG_0905.JPGIMG_0906.JPG

So I've been wanting one of these ever since Big Joe told me about them. The problem was there was close to zero chance I was ever going to get one as all of the available ones had been sold. For those of you who know me know that I will put forth a great deal of effort to acquire an item if I really want it.
That said I sent a guy back to the original place where these stands/vises came from and asked him to cover every possibility....I couldn't believe when he sent me these pictures! He found one!!!!
I don't know much about them yet. However, Big Joe does if you have any questions I bet he will know the answer.


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Outlawmws

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The Badlands
Bought this Reed 4CA this morning at 8am in Newport RI. I never saw one before I bought this one. 6" jawx, 160 lbs.

Tore it down completely and rebuilt it to the last nut. Having an oven for the paint is such a huge timesaver. It is a nice quality vise.

I paid $100 for it.

Nice job Joe!

What are you using for your oven setup?
 

bagged89s10

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That's a newer reed vise made by Columbian for Reed. Probably like 1980s to present. Also very nice restoration as usual Joe.

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Great restoration Joe!

Now I see the resemblance to columbian. I know Wilton was producing or selling columbian vises. Did they drop the columbian line?
 

G-ManBart

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That's a newer reed vise made by Columbian for Reed. Probably like 1980s to present. Also very nice restoration as usual Joe.

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Pretty much a clone to the Columbian 206 M2 (save for the jaw shape)....looked at one on Saturday.

 
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bluebolt

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Pretty much a clone to the Columbian 206 M2 (save for the jaw shape)....looked at one on Saturday.


More like a clone to the Columbian 206 M3 which changed from the T-jaws to the more normal jaw inserts like Joe's has. My Columbian Reed 208 also has those normal style jaws.
 

Carla

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If you're not able to mill the bottom of a vise flat (assuming it's bad enough to worry about, and going on a steel bench) I'd be half tempted to cut one or two gaskets the size and shape of the base. Give a bit of something to crush under the high spots. It wouldn't be quite as good, but it'd definitely help.

That said anything short of a welding table I'd pick wood myself. A heavy rock maple top is surprisingly durable. My most used bench has laminated old growth Douglas fir for the top, and it's held up well to at least a decade of use so far. Maple is best, but expensive.

Cabinet grade plywood (thin layers of birch, vs thick layers of softwood) makes a great surface too. Especially doubled up 3/4-1" with a solid frame under it.

Someday I'd like to do a bench with a two part top. 1" Baltic birch plywood topped with a sheet of 3/4" canvas micarta.

If anything the top material isn't as important as what it's attached to....

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A simple way to make up a serviceable bench top from cheaply available salvaged oddments is to find a nearly full size sheet of 1-1/8 or 1-1/4" plywood, and leftover remnants of new hardwood tongue-and-groove flooring wood from new building construction. One must be careful to find 'real' 3/4" floor material, instead of the cheap wretched 'engineered flooring' so popular these days.

Here in California, there is a bit of a fad for Brazilian or Central American imported floor hardwoods, sold under various trade names, which is some really hard, strong material, some of it being very similar in appearance and density to a rosewood, or cocobolo wood. I was able to get a really good deal on some of this stuff, just by watching Craig's list, as the workers on large job sites tend to save 'surplus' materials. It makes an excellent bench top, like hard maple, but even harder/stronger.

Cutting the plywood to the desired dimensions is obvious, and laying the hardwood is just like doing a hardwood floor. When I did one of those, I didn't have the special tooling used by floor workers, so I did the nailing-down by drilling through the tongues at 45 deg. for the nails. (one cannot drive a nail through this stuff without first drilling nearly full diameter for the nail) I glued the hardwood pieces, as well as nailing, with the first (back) edge board face-nailed on the side away from the tongue.

cheers

Carla
 

joe.striper

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More like a clone to the Columbian 206 M3 which changed from the T-jaws to the more normal jaw inserts like Joe's has. My Columbian Reed 208 also has those normal style jaws.

I agree with all of you that this does look just like a Columbian clone, but as someone who has repaired 6" Columbians before this Reed is different.

The spindle shaft is 1.375" for example. This spindle is the same diameter as my 8" Athol. Bluebolt, what is the spindleshaft diameter on your Columbian?

It is interesting to compare and contrast this model, my older 4c and the 6" Columbians I've worked on in the past .
 

joe.striper

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IMG_0897.JPGIMG_0902.JPGView attachment 1IMG_0905.JPGIMG_0906.JPG

So I've been wanting one of these ever since Big Joe told me about them. The problem was there was close to zero chance I was ever going to get one as all of the available ones had been sold. For those of you who know me know that I will put forth a great deal of effort to acquire an item if I really want it.
That said I sent a guy back to the original place where these stands/vises came from and asked him to cover every possibility....I couldn't believe when he sent me these pictures! He found one!!!!
I don't know much about them yet. However, Big Joe does if you have any questions I bet he will know the answer.


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I can't believe she had one left. Man am I pissed I missed that one.
 
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vintage nut

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A simple way to make up a serviceable bench top from cheaply available salvaged oddments is to find a nearly full size sheet of 1-1/8 or 1-1/4" plywood, and leftover remnants of new hardwood tongue-and-groove flooring wood from new building construction. One must be careful to find 'real' 3/4" floor material, instead of the cheap wretched 'engineered flooring' so popular these days.

Here in California, there is a bit of a fad for Brazilian or Central American imported floor hardwoods, sold under various trade names, which is some really hard, strong material, some of it being very similar in appearance and density to a rosewood, or cocobolo wood. I was able to get a really good deal on some of this stuff, just by watching Craig's list, as the workers on large job sites tend to save 'surplus' materials. It makes an excellent bench top, like hard maple, but even harder/stronger.

Cutting the plywood to the desired dimensions is obvious, and laying the hardwood is just like doing a hardwood floor. When I did one of those, I didn't have the special tooling used by floor workers, so I did the nailing-down by drilling through the tongues at 45 deg. for the nails. (one cannot drive a nail through this stuff without first drilling nearly full diameter for the nail) I glued the hardwood pieces, as well as nailing, with the first (back) edge board face-nailed on the side away from the tongue.

cheers

Carla
That's a great idea! Ipe decking would be hard to beat as well. Often used for high traffic boardwalks, and decks you just want to last forever. About 2-3x as hard as maple.

In a previous job I saw a climber drop a not very small oak branch on an ipe deck. Didn't even scratch it.


I've worked with both Brazilian walnut and Brazilian cherry, and they are very hard and durable.

My favorite bench though is still the traditional solid 2" thick rock maple. They are just a joy to use. Expensive though... A 2'x3' one takes about $100 worth of maple. And that's wholesale account pricing with a commercial supplier.

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bluebolt

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I agree with all of you that this does look just like a Columbian clone, but as someone who has repaired 6" Columbians before this Reed is different.

The spindle shaft is 1.375" for example. This spindle is the same diameter as my 8" Athol. Bluebolt, what is the spindleshaft diameter on your Columbian?

It is interesting to compare and contrast this model, my older 4c and the 6" Columbians I've worked on in the past .

Joe, are you comparing the 206 spindle to a 506 or 606? Parts diagram show a different spindle and even the washer for a 206 vs 506/606
 

bluebolt

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I know someone recently asked the question about what vises are still being made in the USA and it appears to be Wilton, Morgan and Yost. Reed vises still being made in the USA are Wilton Mechanics vises.
 

twertsy

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All, I "think" I've found just about every vise patent from 1876 through 1920. I'm missing only a couple years. If you go to ToolArchives and use the menu on the right, I've organized the "Annual Reports to the Commissioner of Patents" document excerpts in 8 year blocks.

For now they are just screenshots until I can get them digitized individually.

Enjoy! Todd
 

drivesitfar

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Twertsy: thank you very much for doing all the work you are doing with our old vises and tools. :bowdown::bowdown:

i'll get over there more often to help with pictures and comments of vises and tools as i have time. since your system is different (and probably better) than i'm (we're) used to do you have a little tutorial page set up for those of us that want to help so we all don't have to ask the same questions.

thanks again and really cool to have more resources like yours, Gman's, and FMC's to do research on.

Joe: didn't you buy 3 or 4 of those old Parker machine gun looking stands and ship a few off to members? just because you are close to Jersey and maybe are one from birth and because your name is VICEMAN doesn't mean you get to get to own a piece of every vise (vice) ever made in your 4 or 6 state territory or does it? i bet that just burns your rear end when a nice guy from Texas sends his pickers into your area?

ALL: i'm on the search and i think i've found a few more that are coming home this week as maybe a couple are leaving. i'll get the herd reduced some day (I think)?
 

G-ManBart

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ALL: i'm on the search and i think i've found a few more that are coming home this week as maybe a couple are leaving. i'll get the herd reduced some day (I think)?

I'm not buying it....you've said you weren't buying any more vises for the last 6 months :D
 

joe.striper

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Twertsy:

Joe: didn't you buy 3 or 4 of those old Parker machine gun looking stands and ship a few off to members? just because you are close to Jersey and maybe are one from birth and because your name is VICEMAN doesn't mean you get to get to own a piece of every vise (vice) ever made in your 4 or 6 state territory or does it? i bet that just burns your rear end when a nice guy from Texas sends his pickers into your area??

Stirring the pot Drivesit? Yeah I do resent it when 'daddy big bucks' comes through MY territory gobbling up MY vises. Its bad enough with Meatsis and Veeps chomping at my heels , but now I have to deal Mr Texas Vise.....Jesus!!! Worst part was I gave him the idea to do it!

SMH:lol_hitti
 

drivesitfar

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GMAN: well if i didn't like buying hammers, clamps, cabinets and vintage stuff in general i suppose it would be easier to pass on cool vises even if they are not always cheap cause they are valuable and a great piece of history. at least i'm not buying one, two and three a day like i used to. i wonder if somehow you got my Wilton magnet in an email cause it's been missing BTW. :D

JOE: VICEMAN I wouldn't be stirring the pot and i'm a bit too far for you to send one of your boys around to get your piece of my action. :evil:

nice looking big Reed too. i like the older 4c's better and since you own both now do you like the older ones or the newer ones better?
 

excelsisba

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Alright, here are some better photos. Bluebolt (on the vintage thread) mention he hadn't seen one of these before and that it was probably an earlier Columbian. Seems this thread has more eyes than the vintage side. Anyhow, just seeing if anyone has seen a similar vise like this one. I think I only have seen one other "PAT APLD FOR" in here. Also, most of the spindle handles I've seen on Columbians are cylindrical, not spherical. Anyhow, hoping someone has info on the age. Cheers!
 

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drivesitfar

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EX: while i'm not a huge Columbian vise fan even though they made and still make great vises yours is an old one that is for certain. i'm guessing maybe prior to WWI? do you have a 45 degree angle under the static jaw and can you take a picture of the bottom for us?

if you were closer i'd trade you a nice woodworker's vise for yours and make or have made some jaws for yours. i love the scalloped jaw towers and the round hub on the main screw and the cast for name is simple and old school that i like too.

I think you mentioned that you were missing a sleeve to hold the main screw onto the dynamic jaw and if you to Ace hardware or some full service hardware store to pick up a sleeve with a set screw all you'll have to do is drill a small indent for the set screw to set in and BOB'S YOUR UNCLE.

maybe having some new metal jaws made for that vise might be something you'd like to do and just keep your eyes open for a nice wood vise that are usually pretty reasonably priced.
 

excelsisba

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It does have the 45 on the static side. I actually took a photo of it but not the bottom. Here's a few more I took last night. The main screw and vise nut are in excellent shape. The glide right together with no catches or grinding.
 

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joe.striper

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JOE: VICEMAN I wouldn't be stirring the pot and i'm a bit too far for you to send one of your boys around to get your piece of my action. :evil:

nice looking big Reed too. i like the older 4c's better and since you own both now do you like the older ones or the newer ones better?

I am not a Columbian fan. I think they cut corners and underbuild their vises. I have to say though that this 6" is very nice and definetly not underbuilt. Having said that, I prefer the older 4c, but I like the 4ca as much as my Wilton C3.
 

drivesitfar

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EX: thanks for the pictures. usually the bases and that 45 degree angle are filled in so Columbian was trying to see what steel they could eliminate even back in the early 1900's cause i think they might have been the first to have hollow jaw towers, but maybe there was another company that patented that idea.

you've got a good investment there that just needs a few parts to work another 100 years.

just to show you what the bottom of a Parker looks like with that 45 degree angle here's a pictures of one of mine i had handy.
 

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drivesitfar

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EX: since my Parker is a 6.5 inch wide vise it won't compare, but maybe somebody with an old 3.5 inch wide jaw Parker or Athol could say what their's weighs.

like i said even though yours is missing a few pieces it's a good old vise and not a common every day Columbian vise.

good luck
 

Carla

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And here's the underside and base

It looks like you have a very early example, indeed, of the malleable iron vise production at the Columbian works, a fine and desirable little piece of industrial history in its own right. You are quite fortunate to find one in such well-preserved condition. It is well worth some time taken for a really nice restoration/refinishing.

If it were mine........I'd gently media-blast it to remove all the rust and old paint (with fine glass-bead media.......ground walnut shell media, if available, would be better) and try to replicate its original paint finish, which.....reasonably certainly......would have been shop-mixed boiled linseed oil, a Japan drier, and either fine graphite or lamp-black (ultra-fine carbon) as a pigment.

An option might be doing a nicely 'filled and rubbed finish' in a dark green or dark maroon, which were common colours for industrial widgetry in the late 1800's-early 1900's period. If one uses one of those colours, some basic, simple outline striping in a straw or gold colour would be appropriate.

If you do woodworking, making a set of hardwood jaws, lined with sheet-cork or medium hard leather, will follow the common practice of the old-timers who did 'high finish' woodworking, such as piano or organ builders, fancy furniture, gun-stocking, wooden pattern making, etc.

One may see many versions of these jaws in vises like yours, in old photos of various woodworking shops. Whilst its true enough that the various vise makers offered a standard 'coach-makers' type of vise for woodworkers, in practice it would have been quick, cheap, and easy for a woodworker to simply make a set of jaws to adapt a common machinists' vise to hold high finish wooden parts.

In short, you've a nice little piece of 'industrial history', one which, when restored, will be as useful today as it was over a century ago.

cheers

Carla
 

Bellaireroad

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Mar 22, 2013
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Fort Worth
Bought this Reed 4CA this morning at 8am in Newport RI. I never saw one before I bought this one. 6" jawx, 160 lbs.



Tore it down completely and rebuilt it to the last nut. Having an oven for the paint is such a huge timesaver. It is a nice quality vise.



I paid $100 for it.



Interesting that reed has gone old school on their new combination vises . This harkens back to the 31/32/33/34 series that preceded the 1c/2c/3c/4c series which preceded this newer series .In fact it is almost a spitting image with the three pipe jaws, tall graceful necks, and bossed out on the dynamic jaw. I have a 32 and it is my favorite vise
dacf2d0163ef364f839b19d11ce82009.jpg

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excelsisba

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Carla Thanks for the information! I was worried I spent too much because of the rough visual condition and the handle spinning and not moving the dynamic jaw. It was priced $40 at a booth at an antique market and everything in it was 50% off that day. I know more about handplanes which is why I was actually there. And with those, condition is really important otherwise you'll spend way more trying to piece something back together than its worth. I feel ok about my $20 now. :)
 
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