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Armorseal 1000 HS istall in progress

BlackdogGS

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Jan 28, 2012
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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
I just applied the first coat of 1000 HS in my new 1,400 sf garage. Floors were 49 degrees (50 recommended) but I turned the heat up while applying. The next morning it was close to 70 degrees. I thined the first coat 20%. I used a 1/2" roller. It looks great for a first coat. You can see the fine cracks but I'm sure the second non thined coat will cover them. I do have 2 small areas where I got some bleed through from an un seen contaminate. I'll grind these areas out and re apply. The second and final coat will go on this weekend. It will have the shark tooth grit in it.

I used the white color and I'm so glad I did. I'll post pictures soon.
 
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BlackdogGS

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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
After letting the first coat cure for five days it's time for the second coat. I had two small areas where I had some bleed through, so yesterday I ground these spots down to cement, cleaned with epoxy thinner and re coated. This morning the problem spots look great, no bleed through.

The very fine hair line cracks became very noticeable after the first coat. My coating is white and the cracks are black. I'm hoping the second coat will cover it. Maybe I need 3 coats?

My second (and hopfully final) coat will have grit. If the coverage is not satisfactory could I apply a third coat with grit?
 

LegacyIndustrial

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If you want to fill hairline cracks with a coating, then a bridging primer would have to be used. Otherwise, you need to pre-fill any void, crack, spall, with a filler intended for such.
 
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BlackdogGS

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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
My 2nd coat turned out great. The question now is do I need a 3rd coat? The 2nd has no grit but if I decide to apply a 3rd coat I could include the grit. Just how slick are epoxy floors? We live in an arid climate but it does rain at times. Grit or no grit?
 

Jagmandave

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I'd see if you can get along without it, grit makes the floor a lot harder to keep clean looking, and you put down white for a reason.

If you rarely get moisture, I think I'd try to live with it, at least the first year or so. You may find that white wasn't the best choice and you can coat over it with a grey or something.

It will only be slick if you have on really hard soled shoes, if you wear tennis shoes or the like, you'll be fine.
 
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BlackdogGS

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Jan 28, 2012
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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
Re: Armorseal 1000 HS install in progress

These are the spider webs that appeared after the first coat.
GaragefloorsMarch2012002.jpg


The second coat covered 80% of the spider webbing. It looked great and I was tempted to call it completed.

GaragefloorsMarch2012006.jpg


I still had a few webs to cover to make it perfect and my wife felt that some traction would be better. So I applied a third coat with grit. This coat was a little difficult as we were applying white over white and it was hard to see what we were doing. I'll post a picture of it later. The grit flattened the shine (I really liked the high gloss look) but still looks great.
 

dcs Inc

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Indianapolis, Indiana
Hey, you wont like that shiny floor when it starts to show scratches and worn areas.We use a high wear urethane top coat with aluminum oxide as the "slip resistant" additive. This is a really hard, durable, scratch resistant application. I'm pushing it on all my commercial applications where high traffic is involved.

gene
www.elitecrete.com
[email protected]
 
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hardhat

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Oct 24, 2009
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Looks pretty awesome to me, great job. As stated above by dcs, you can add a urethane top coat to get the shine back and add a protective layer that is tougher than epoxy. You can always do this later though, just clean, sand for texture then wipe with denatured alchohol. What did the project cost you ?
 
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CamarosRus

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Renton, WA (Seattle)
Gene, We top coated my new epoxy full broadcast floor with a aliphatic polyester polyurethane. (I did add the polyglitter silver to the epoxy clear that went over the flakes).

We were only able to roll the CRU urethane at 400 sq ft per gallon with a 9"x3/8" nap roller.

Are you telling/suggesting now that I should have added aluminum oxide. My shop will not get high traffic, but still a "shop"

How would I know, how would I decide if I want another coat of polyurethane (CRU) or just quit while I'm behind.
 

dcs Inc

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Chuck, the oxide gives a semi-gloss to a mat finish depending on the loading. It does offer a stronger resistance to scratching. The urethane itself will give a better scratch control than just the epoxy.
 

powerhound

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Apr 23, 2012
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Did you lay down a primer prior to painting the ArmorSeal? I just bought my supplies and didn't even think about a primer. What was you slab condition prior to paint?
 
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BlackdogGS

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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
Did you lay down a primer prior to painting the ArmorSeal? I just bought my supplies and didn't even think about a primer. What was you slab condition prior to paint?

Not really. The first coat is the primer coat. My floors were new, all I did was grind off some boo boo's ans sweep it. I've been using the floors for over a year and they look like new.

Post your progress!
 

powerhound

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Will Do, thanks for the reply. I plan to do two coats of the epoxy and a poly top coat with some grit since we get moisture and I don't want anyone hitting the deck in the shop. My floor is new as well, so I'm renting a grinder to scuff it up and then see how it goes. I like most others, have never done a floor so I guess after months of reading, the best thing to do is just get after it.
 

powerhound

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Mine has come out to be about .75 to $1.00 per sq ft if you add in the floor grinder rental.
 
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BlackdogGS

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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
5 years later and the floors are holding up fine. The floors have some character now from dropped heavy objects like a drill press falling from the bed of a truck. You can see where we constantly pull in and out but its not worn through at any location. No peeling at all.
 

bigjon

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Apr 21, 2007
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NSW Australia
5 years later and the floors are holding up fine. The floors have some character now from dropped heavy objects like a drill press falling from the bed of a truck. You can see where we constantly pull in and out but its not worn through at any location. No peeling at all.

It's always good to get a durability update. Pics would be handy as well.

Where you constantly drive in and out just needs a thorough clean. That's why I went brown in my house garage. I'm OCD and would be forever cleaning it. My first epoxy floor was white and I had to change to a mid-gray a few years later due to this.
 

dblattack

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Mar 12, 2017
Messages
21
Thanks for updating durability! I did two coats of armorseal 1000hs and have been debating a top coat. I think based on your experience I will not do one. I'm ready to start using my floor..

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BlackdogGS

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The Dalles Oregon, Puget Island Washington
I think I’m at 6 years now. The floor has continued to perform well and has taken on a well used look. When new the floors are stunning and makes you feel like your in a hospital. Any dirt shows and freaks you out. Not so much now with the patina and this is good. If I ever recoat I’ll use the same product but in a light gray. I see no need to top coat. I’ll post some pictures later today.
 

dblattack

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Mar 12, 2017
Messages
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Can't wait to see the pics! Here's mine so far. Some roller marks evident, it's not perfect, I did 2 coats and I'm pretty happy with it. I attached 3 more pics from my brothers work, it's about 4 years old, only one coat of armorseal 1000. Looks great still even with the wear and tear. Applied to new concrete without even being prepped as far as I know. 20180608_184421.jpegMessage_1525278180002.jpgMessage_1525278353807.jpgMessage_1525278370119ff.jpeg

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