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Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)

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6pony6

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Picked this up today. Probably overpaid at $30, but it powers up and runs smooth. The label is completely toast, and I have no idea what model it is other than being 1/2 HP. If nothing else, I figured I could use the stand for another grinder.
 

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ndfan6464

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6pony6 said:
Picked this up today. Probably overpaid at $30, but it powers up and runs smooth. The label is completely toast, and I have no idea what model it is other than being 1/2 HP. If nothing else, I figured I could use the stand for another grinder.
Click to expand...

I have a 1/2 HP decal I can give you. It won't have the same serial number as that one. But if you want it just PM me.
 

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cajunfirehawk

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FYI, not mine and I have no idea who the seller is, but he may be a forum member, there is another 1hp block on ebay w/deluxe base and for the mere price of at least $550 it can be yours. YMMV!
 
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ckadams00

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Seattle, WA
Bobioz1 said:
Tip for all you Blockheads out there with OE stands. I found some large rubber feet at the flea last weekend that fit the Craftsman stand almost perfect. My open wheel grinder would zombie walk around the shop when I was using it. After installing these it stays glued to the floor. I googled the part number and it looks like Grainger has them in a 5 pack for around 10 bucks. That's a 1/4 x 1-3/4 bolt.
Click to expand...

Ooooh just what I need! Which one is the part number I can't find it on Accurate's site. You say you matched it at Grainger?
 
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torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
I had almost given up hope on finding another Big Boy around here. Actually, I spent too many hours in the truck to get it, so I guess technically it wasn't around here. :lol_hitti

It was listed as a CM block grinder in Ohio. I Googled the town, 3+ hrs away. I can do that, and for a Big Boy! :beer:
Very well used and it shows it, lots of SWARF from mower blade sharpening.
Fi%20P1120074.jpg


It will need new labels: machine info. 1-HP, m-397.19360 and 'Sears Best'
Fi%20P1120075.jpg
Fi%20P1120076.jpg


It is complete, except for the lamp cover, and eye shields.
Fi%20P1120077.jpg


Fi%20P1120078.jpg


Fi%20P1120079.jpg


Fi%20P1120081.jpg


The projects are literally piling up. I wonder if I should cannibalize one of the 1/3-HP Blocks for the 1-HP eye shields?
:evil:
 
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cheechi

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Triad, NC
I would. The more complete the higher HP ones are the more use you will get out of them.

Then again what are you up to now 50 or so?
 
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cajunfirehawk

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So question on block reassembly; I see how to take off and replace new bearings on the shafts but what if you have a tight fitting bearing that won't fit into the case so easy, how do you assemble the block if the bearing is a tight fit? tips, tricks, pointers? didn't see any in the info listed, did I miss it?
 
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torqueman2002

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cajunfirehawk said:
So question on block reassembly; I see how to take off and replace new bearings on the shafts but what if you have a tight fitting bearing that won't fit into the case so easy, how do you assemble the block if the bearing is a tight fit? tips, tricks, pointers? didn't see any in the info listed, did I miss it?
Click to expand...
Make sure the grinder end frame bearing bore is clean and free from burs, nicks, .... Warm the end frame and chill the bearing, then install the bearing.

Chill the rotor/shaft assembly, warm the end frame/beating, then install the rotor.

OR,

Install the bearing(s) on the rotor/shaft as in the video.

Warm the end frame(s), and chill the rotor/bearing assembly. Then fit the two together.

Let us know how you make out.

:thumbup:
 
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mroneeyedboh

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Dec 30, 2011
Messages
459
Hey guys, Im sure I missed it, but does anyone have the part number on the light shield? Does anyone have an original quench tray? $30 bucks for a new one is hard to swallow, but I thought Id ask here first.

Finally got my first block grinder, kinda high at $65 but its in great condition runs smooth. Its a 1/3 HP, not what I wanted but itll work for now.
 
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EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
mroneeyedboh said:
Hey guys, Im sure I missed it, but does anyone have the part number on the light shield? Does anyone have an original quench tray? $30 bucks for a new one is hard to swallow, but I thought Id ask here first.
Click to expand...

There's a list of part numbers in one of the block threads. But if you put in your model on the sears parts direct website it should still have light shields for sale (and quench trays)... I don't know anyone that would want to part with their tray, usually people are looking for them to add on too but don't want to pay retail prices.
 
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ndfan6464

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All over
What can you guys tell me about this Stanley Grinder?
 

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ndfan6464

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No I haven't.. I had a quick second when I posted it for a buddy and this thread was one I knew of right off that bat that I knew had massive grinder knowledge so I quickly posted it... Apologies that it's in the wrong area..
 
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torqueman2002

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ndfan6464 said:
No I haven't.. I had a quick second when I posted it for a buddy and this thread was one I knew of right off that bat that I knew had massive grinder knowledge so I quickly posted it... Apologies that it's in the wrong area..
Click to expand...
NP

Just thought someone there might have more info. for you.
:)
 
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rrich1

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Oct 7, 2015
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Hey guy, I am looking for an led replacement bulb for my 397.19580 grinder. What light bulb would be suitable for it?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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Outlawmws

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Almost any LED that doesn't hit the shade should work. I would go brighter and that's an advantage to LED's as they can be run past the equivalent incandescent for brightness, as the current draw and heat are a fraction of say a 100 watt bulb. (I'm pretty sure the housing/shade is rated for 60W)
 
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Smokeshow69

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Outlawmws said:
Almost any LED that doesn't hit the shade should work. I would go brighter and that's an advantage to LED's as they can be run past the equivalent incandescent for brightness, as the current draw and heat are a fraction of say a 100 watt bulb. (I'm pretty sure the housing/shade is rated for 60W)
Click to expand...



Very true! I found a nice mid size led bulb at Home Depot that is bright and does not burn you if you touch it! It also clears the shield much better !


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6PTsocket

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Smokeshow69 said:
Very true! I found a nice mid size led bulb at Home Depot that is bright and does not burn you if you touch it! It also clears the shield much better !


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Click to expand...
On the subject of that light. It only comes on when the grinder is running. I wanted to be able to look at my work or adjust the angle of the stages, etc., when it was stopped but still be able to turn it off. I replaced the bulb socket with a switched one, that uses that little shuttle bar type switch, found on many home lamps. I then just moved the wire that feeds the socket from the load side to the line side of the power switch, so it is always hot. You can get a socket like that in any lighting or big box store. It had no affect on the shield or shade. They went right on to the new socket.


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EOC_Jason

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6PTsocket said:
On the subject of that light. It only comes on when the grinder is running. I wanted to be able to look at my work or adjust the angle of the stages, etc., when it was stopped but still be able to turn it off. I replaced the bulb socket with a switched one, that uses that little shuttle bar type switch, found on many home lamps. I then just moved the wire that feeds the socket from the load side to the line side of the power switch, so it is always hot. You can get a socket like that in any lighting or big box store. It had no affect on the shield or shade. They went right on to the new socket.
Click to expand...

I had to replace the socket on mine as the on/off knob was messed up. Yes, new models from the store are a direct swap and screw right on.

Mine the light comes on as soon as it's plugged in. I would kind of wonder why they would put a switch on the bulb if it would only come on when the grinder was turned on?

Maybe someone that has a NOS one can verify if it's only supposed to come on when the switch is on, or if it's supposed to always be on.
 
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ndfan6464

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Sure has been quite around these here parts. I know for myself I've been busy with summer stuff, work and other bigger machines
 
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torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
OK, I'll liven this party up a bit.

Here' a baby picture.
CaptureA.jpg


A brand New-In-the-Box, Baby Block.

1/4-HP round top m-397.19400.

I was all set to pay the asking price, but habit forced me to ask if the seller would accept less. She said yes a bit fast. Makes me think maybe I could have got it for less, but why risk it. This is the 1st one I have encountered.

So, it's in the truck, all snug and safe.

More pictures to follow.
:)
 
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M_George

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Eastern Pa.
Yep, you earned a **** with that one. Show us the un-boxing.
Your right with jumping on a good deal, made that mistake before.
 
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torqueman2002

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M_George said:
Only one problem with it... Your going to miss all the fun fixing it up :lol_hitti
Click to expand...

I know! Right?

And, do I leave it NIB, or use it like God and man intended?

Maybe I'll just have to pass it on, so I don't have to make that decision.

:Twitch:

Thanks for the You *****.
 
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