POR 15 opinions

[Mitchw123456]

Alright after trying to search and the search feature not letting me because the word por and 15 are too short I gave up and started this..

Anyway, does por 15 actually work decently? I'm currently starting a project on a jeep that I will be turning into a crawler that has a little rust on the tub. I've been in debate mode on ***********. I've thought about ospho and several other brands but still can't make a decision. Basically I need a tough surface that will allow bedliner to adhere to it that will essentially be very rust resistant. I HATE rust with a passion! Any problems with maybe ospho painted with por 15 then bedlined? The rust mentioned is mostly surface rust but I will be welding up many holes in the tub that were drilled for seat brackets and such and just want something I don't have to worry about rusting in the matter of a couple months...

For any one that has used it will it adhere to "clean" metal that has been stripped of paint that does NOT have rust?

 

[Kaizen]

no....well kinda. It needs rough to adhere to. so just take off loose stuff and then hit the rest with 80 or 120 to scratch it up. But maybe not your best option. you are going to spray a bedliner over it? i'd just use some rust converter like extend then spray the liner.
por will not stand up to uv rays. so you have to spray something over it.
i'd be looking at paint they use on tractors and farm equipment. that stuff is tuff and good for uv.
por stands for paint over rust which is what its intended to do.

 

[RivennHewn]

I'm liking truck bed liner over the POR-15.

Seems to me to be bullet proof. Stops rust and looks good.

But I'm not into shiny stuff.

 

[4xdog]

POR-15 works superbly, and I've used it for years. It's an incredible PITA to handle (I use disposable brushes, nitrile gloves, and the smallest cans of the stuff they sell). It'll adhere to just about anything, but as they instruct, a bit of tooth on the surface will help adhesion.

As Kaizen notes, it's not UV stable and needs a topcoat.

 

[Mitchw123456]

no....well kinda. It needs rough to adhere to. so just take off loose stuff and then hit the rest with 80 or 120 to scratch it up. But maybe not your best option. you are going to spray a bedliner over it? i'd just use some rust converter like extend then spray the liner.
por will not stand up to uv rays. so you have to spray something over it.
i'd be looking at paint they use on tractors and farm equipment. that stuff is tuff and good for uv.
por stands for paint over rust which is what its intended to do.

The entire tub isn't rusted but it does have some surface rust. What I'm kind of thinking about doing is stripping all the paint off the interior of the tub and underneath and coating with por 15. The interior part will more than likely be coated in bedliner after its all said and done.

 

[Kaizen]

If you do all of that work I would just paint it. Por is for rough stuff like a pitted axle or frame where you clean it up a little and put on por. It's certainly ain't cheap. If you get hung up in rocks it will scratch just like paint.


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[NUTTSGT]

POR-15 works superbly, and I've used it for years. It's an incredible PITA to handle (I use disposable brushes, nitrile gloves, and the smallest cans of the stuff they sell). It'll adhere to just about anything, but as they instruct, a bit of tooth on the surface will help adhesion.

As Kaizen notes, it's not UV stable and needs a topcoat.

I buy the quart cans but I don't open them by the lid. I run 2 sheet metal screws in the bottom on opposite sides. Take them out pour out of one and the other vents. Once you pour what you need, replace screws and a quick flip upside down. This seals the screws and prevents the stuff from starting to dry/cure in the can.

 

[RivennHewn]

Also,
Be careful with the can/lid. If the lid doesn't seal well, it will skin over in the can. Don't be messy and get it all over the can. If you do, the lid won't want to come loose, and you'll screw up the lid and it won't seal again and you'll lose the can.



NUTTSGT - you are brilliant.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Also,
Be careful with the can/lid. If the don't seal well, it will skin over in the can. Don't be messy and get it all over the can. If you do, the lid won't want to come loose, and you'll screw up the lid and it won't seal again and you'll lose the can.

The reason for my post above, this man speaks from experience.

 

[RivennHewn]

The reason for my post above, this man speaks from experience.

One of the best tips I've seen all week

 

[Mitchw123456]

alright thanks for all the info. So do yall agree that it will be able to be applied to fresh stripped metal and actually stick?

kaizen I really don't want to paint it and hoping the interior won't be hung up too often on rocks. I have a serious HATE for rust and living in south east texas we have way more than our fair share! I'm getting tired of fighting small amounts of rust on my current crawler. I'm pretty sure that I'd be ok just going with straight bedliner but right now the tub and frame are all separate and there isn't a single thing in/on the tub to get in the way. Just trying to go fool proof.. Looks don't really matter as 95% will be covered with seats and fuel cell but i'm kind of a rust Nazi and can't help checking and looking, especially after going through immense amounts of work to plug ALL the bolt holes in the tub..

 

[Mitchw123456]

I buy the quart cans but I don't open them by the lid. I run 2 sheet metal screws in the bottom on opposite sides. Take them out pour out of one and the other vents. Once you pour what you need, replace screws and a quick flip upside down. This seals the screws and prevents the stuff from starting to dry/cure in the can.

genius! I did notice everywhere on their website it talks about it must be stirred not shaken. I'm guessing it really doesn't matter? I'm just thinking it may be hard to stir it through a screw hole....

 

[JCQuick]

I used it once on an open car trailer did not hold up well and did not help with the rust problem. But I have seen it use for stuff like a vw floor pan and do ok

 

[gtr1999]

I rebuild corvette steering boxes, trailing arms, and differentials. I use POR15 all the time because it works. However you have to follow the directions step by step or it will fail.

Here is how I use it.
1- wash parts, typically cast iron or steel
2- Blast them to bare metal
3- Etch them for 30 minutes with POR15 metal ready
4- water rinse
5- flame dry
6 apply 1 coat of semi gloss black
7 wait for the surface to get tacky but not come off on your finger
8 shoot a top coat of either black or cast blast, let harden together.
I like it better than powder coating and for my application it works well. will it scratch off, yes but you can touch it up easy. It takes time and may not be for everyone but my parts are out there for years and still look good.

NOTE: wear gloves and safety glasses. DO NOT SPRAY this product unless you have a fresh air system, respirators are not safe to use with it. I brush it on with a small fan blowing the fumes away from me. It sets up fast in humid wet weather and takes a few hours in hot dry weather.

 

[Slick111]

I only get it in small cans use what I need put the rest in a air tight glass mason canning jar then wrap it in a old towel store it in a closed drawer out of any type of lite as UV will slowly damage it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It needs rough to adhere to.

Lot's of problems when applying to NEW metal.

 

[Angelfire]

Some people seem to have great success with it and others had miserable failures. I used it...once. Followed all their instructions to a T and the **** peeled off in sheets. Called their support line and didn't get any advice other than to say sorry.

Never again.

 

[n20junkie]

Even if your going to brush it on, prep like a spray job. The stuff lays incredibly flat and will show everything.

Use foam brushes.


Spraying is the way to go. I use it all over on my race car and nothing else comes close to the abrasion durability . NOTHING!

Wear gloves, and clean any skin that gets paint on it immediately. If it gets in your hair, may god have mercy on your soul.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I had the body and paint on our 1940 Ford done at a professional restoration shop. The final bill was $24,749.03. The shop owner told me that he never uses any of the "rust converters". He said he has had no luck with any of them.
All of the body pieces were blasted with ground walnut shell media and sealed with an etching epoxy primer immediately.
The trunk lid is made from three lids. It is not possible to tell where the pieces were joined.
I made the decision to have the chrome plated grill centre section and the headlight bezels painted body colour. I bought a new grill and headlight bezels from Bob Drake Reproductions then glass beaded the chrome off. After about 20 plus hours of careful hand filing and preparation, I took the pieces to a powder coating shop. I had the shop heat cycle my parts about 6 times over the day then apply the powder-coat primer on the last batch. This was to remove as much of the off-gassing as possible from the cast zinc parts. So far, so good. It has been several years, now.

 

[jdrautoworks]

Check out Caterpillar paint, not many options for colors but spanks POR or just about anything else and runs $30 or so a gallon at your local dealer.

 

[DGersic]

I stripped a Dakota rear bumper to bare metal, then painted it with two coats of Por15. That was a couple of years ago. Looks fine to me, no obvious UV problems or fading. Tough as nails, hasn't scratched or anything. I use tha Dakota, it's a truck. It lives outside, in Northern Illinois. The truck is rusting away, but the bumper looks good.

Wear gloves, and old clothes you don't care about. Anything you get it on, it's there forever.



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[ford33]

I have had no success with it. Used it on a trailer hitch. Purchased a Por-15 kit and followed directions. A year later the hitch had peeling paint and now 5 years later the hitch is as rusty looking as before I applied Por-15.

 

[NUTTSGT]

genius! I did notice everywhere on their website it talks about it must be stirred not shaken. I'm guessing it really doesn't matter? I'm just thinking it may be hard to stir it through a screw hole....

I've read that part about stirring and not shaking. I have always shaken mine and for me, I've had no issues. I have found the Black does better than their Silver color.


old crappy cell phone picture

 

[Kaizen]

alright thanks for all the info. So do yall agree that it will be able to be applied to fresh stripped metal and actually stick?

kaizen I really don't want to paint it and hoping the interior won't be hung up too often on rocks. I have a serious HATE for rust and living in south east texas we have way more than our fair share! I'm getting tired of fighting small amounts of rust on my current crawler. I'm pretty sure that I'd be ok just going with straight bedliner but right now the tub and frame are all separate and there isn't a single thing in/on the tub to get in the way. Just trying to go fool proof.. Looks don't really matter as 95% will be covered with seats and fuel cell but i'm kind of a rust Nazi and can't help checking and looking, especially after going through immense amounts of work to plug ALL the bolt holes in the tub..

Sorry I could have sworn your original post talked about the underside of the tub as well. hence the rocks and such. seems you're really stuck on using it so good luck. like I said earlier you strip all the paint and make it pretty and it won't stay put

 

[jav]

I've had great luck with POR-15 on rust pitted surfaces after cleaning per directions. I have had terrible luck with POR-15 on smooth clean metal in that it doesn't stick well and I have much better luck with epoxy primer.

On your tub, my approach would be POR-15 in areas you can't completely clean off the rust and epoxy prime clean areas and the transition zones to them- then bed liner over all.

 

[Jackfre]

I used it on an old BMW, on metal I had replaced,so clean. The first time I applied it the next morning I came down and peeled it off like a sheet coming off a bed. I thought I had read the instructions I called and chatted with the POR folks and using the cleaner and metal etch it went down and stayed down. Second time is a charm. Don't only read, but follow the insatructions. Don't be like me.

 

[Fastfish]

Just another opinion here. Unless there was rust under it, my POR peeled. I found Rust Bullet to be better at adheasion, not as hard as POR when dry, but easier to deal with when coating surfaces that are mixed (some rust areas and some bare unrusted areas)

 

[Git]

Another POR 15 user here - great stuff

BUT if you are going to use it on clean metal - you need to use their metal prep
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep_p_15.html

Also - remember that POR15 needs to be top coated if it will be exposed to sunlight
http://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html

 

[Rlfd213]

Have not used POR 15, but have seen a lot of people with bad reviews on it. I am restoring a vw bug and I have used master series silver with great success. 2 costs of master series brushed on, filler, 2 coats of master series sprayed on, hi build primer and then paint. The master series seals everything and has worked well.

 

[JimVonBaden]

POR-15 works superbly, and I've used it for years. It's an incredible PITA to handle (I use disposable brushes, nitrile gloves, and the smallest cans of the stuff they sell). It'll adhere to just about anything, but as they instruct, a bit of tooth on the surface will help adhesion.

As Kaizen notes, it's not UV stable and needs a topcoat.

Yup, I did my trailer with it, but did not overpaint. The POR15 is coming off, more like fading off. Lesson learned.

 

[CN Spots]

I've used it for years and it's worked well. It will tend to get chalky if exposed to the sun but used it on frame and suspension parts mostly. It excels in pitted rust and has a hard time adhering to clean, shiny stuff... unless you don't want it to.

It's held up perfect on the underside of the truck. The only place it peeled off was where I left some of the old paint on the crossmember and lazily painted over it. It peeled off of the paint but stuck great to the bare metal. I used their metal prep and just bought the 6 pack of little cans. The stuff goes a long way.

I've also used their Glisten PC (clear) on my aluminum intake after I shined it up. After 5 years it hasn't peeled, cracked, or yellowed. I'm tempted to use it on a freshly polished headlight.

A trick on the lids... place two pieces of wax paper between the lid and can to keep them from welding together.

 

[Ilikeike]

I've seen these stories of POR peeling off in sheets, I can't even get it to peel off the unprepared can lid, and there is a blob of some silver POR on my concrete out in the weather and sun that gets pressure washed from time to time, still there after 3 years.

I used the silver POR on the new floor I installed in my Camaro, and black on the new and properly prepared trunk pan before using the trunk splatter paint, looks great. I cleaned and etched everything with the POR stuff, but I have no rust on my car, so I was just using it as a paint,not to cover pitted or rusty metal.
I'm old school,I remove rust, not paint over it, I just would trust any paint over rust after all my hard work restoring something.

 

[Randy in Maine]

The key to using POR-15 (or the KBS Paint or Rust Bullet equiv.) is that they all need something to "bite on" to allow them to adhere well to metal. That is all part of the prep work.

Using the metal etching phosphoric acid stuff they all suggest gives the new metal that slight "rust" and the required bite that allows for them to bond so well to the "clean metal".

Once I had a powder coater guy ask me what the hell I painted that wheel with as it took him 4 solid hours of sandblasting to get the wheel back to bare metal.

 

[4xdog]

I buy the quart cans but I don't open them by the lid. I run 2 sheet metal screws in the bottom on opposite sides. Take them out pour out of one and the other vents. Once you pour what you need, replace screws and a quick flip upside down. This seals the screws and prevents the stuff from starting to dry/cure in the can.

I LIKE that idea! Thanks for it.

 

[CarBikeGuy70]

Por-15 is the product to use. Scuff rusted areas with course abrasive - your choice of what to use. Buy por-15 in small cans. I believe you can find it in 6 oz.cans. More expensive per oz. but no waste (cheaper than throwing out spoiled product that you paid for). Gloves, old clothes and foam brushes are the way to go. Don't apply too thin, let cure and you will be very happy with results. I have used this stuff for years with great success. New England = heavy salt and chemicals to treat roads.

Another lid trick- use 2 or3 layers of saran wrap over can before putting lid back on can.

Do NOT spray unless you have supplied air breathing equipment to use. Atomized particles are nasty, not to be taken lightly.

Enjoy the results- sounds like a nice project.

 

[Brian_WK]

I had good luck with it, I used it on the rear wheel wells of a 2000 Subaru impreza. I dry iced the old sound deadening stuff off finished up with a knotted wire wheel. Then sprayed down and followed the directions with POR15 cleaner degreaser, rinsed, then POR 15 Metal ready once again following directions (keep it wet) . Then a layer of POR 15 Black dry until tacky then another layer of POR 15 and let it dry completely. I drove it like that for 4 years no chips or rust. This is driving gravel roads 65+, winter salt, interstate 85 mph. The only mark was where i must have ran over a larger rock that got thrown up in my wheel well and dented the sheet metal. None of the coating came off. I was going to do the underbody spray but after driving it without I just left it road noise wasn't enough to bug me. The added benefit is snow, ice, mud just slid off compared to under body coating where it would have had to be manually removed.

Brian

 

[A**holes Garage]

I looked into Por15 years ago, looks like Rust Bullet is a more quality product for rust remediation?

 

[Nexussian]

Biggest issue I've run into is heat.

You need the part, and the paint to be a minimum of 70° F, 80°F is better, through the whole curing process.

I've seen people with garages without full time heat have numerous failures because of this.

Some don't flow out, some the paint falls off in sheets.

Invariably they will rush it, thinking that whatever heat they have at that moment will "catch up," in my experience, and theirs, it doesn't.

Part has to be warm, paint has to be warm, they both have to stay warm until the paint is cured.

I don't know how it does at 90° F, being from Alaska.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'll also add and back up what others have said about wearing nitrile gloves. If you get it on your skin and it dries, it'll have to wear off. If I'm under something painting, I wear safety glasses also, I don't want that **** in my eyes.

My preference is to use chip brushes (buy them by the box at HF) and toss out when done. I generally also use a plastic SOLO cup cut down or a plastic nacho tray to pour the paint into. Once it cures, then it goes into the trash.

My thoughts, anything that you use with POR15 needs to be disposable.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I tried it once on a lawn mower deck. Some areas of the deck were rusty, some bare metal and some of the original paint. Wire brushed any loose rust, sanded and used their acid prep.
Less than a year later it was chipped in some areas and peeling off of others.

I called them and got excuses about how it is made to be applied over rust (won't stick to bare metal or paint). When I asked about the rusted areas I was told that it must have been too rusty.
Every fall I peel off some loose POR and rattle can rustoleum (or other cheap paint) over the bare areas. No prep whatsoever and that paint seems to stay.