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The VISES of Garage Journal

fowldarr

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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
1,067
Location
Coastal Oregon
Here is my new addition to the garage I can't get in yet. 69fb55ba2ba9e19bf03d4e745b53f525.jpg807d6ae1f4f3b2ec6ea195cc710c6b3e.jpga31d30d8a4c85fb33844957de8129dba.jpg

It's in good working order a little beat on, the 'swivel pin' is cut off or smashed down. I'll pull it apart this weekend to see what I can do with it.




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compunaut

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May 2, 2017
Messages
144
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Might have the opportunity to snag as many as 6 local fire hydrants for $25 each. Royce has built a couple really cool vise stands from hydrants, but I don't have those skills. Would anybody be interested?
(Note: I guess I'd have to figure out how to haul these things without a crane :willy_nil)
hydrant multi-vise stand
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,018
Location
Pacific Northwest
ALL: for some of you that didn't see Royce's fire hydrant stand i couldn't believe what he did with it and here's a few pictures of the two he made into vise stands.

i clicked on Wazz's link to his vise thread that only had his original post that he made 6 years ago. i know his vise is something we'd all like to see more pictures of so how about a few of you making a post on his thread and here's the link again that he provided?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131607
 

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vertguy

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Apr 6, 2010
Messages
1,261
Location
SE WI
Finished up this Prentiss last week. I still need to take a crack at painting the lettering.
 

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jakemac

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May 21, 2013
Messages
9,035
Location
New England
Sadly, I'm too far away. I'd love to stick a fire hydrant in the middle of the front yard, just to screw with the neighbors. (My entire town is on well water, no hydrants anywhere 'til you hit the town line) :evil:
 

eddieK

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Joined
Mar 2, 2017
Messages
695
Location
Nampa Idaho
Finished up this Prentiss last week. I still need to take a crack at painting the lettering.

Paint pens work great.

Nice restore, love the Prentiss vises. That swivel base lock... I've not seen that style before.

Is that a newer handle? I thought the knobs on the Prentiss were round.
 
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Tonellin

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Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
507
Location
Boston
Not the prettiest Athol but it's my first one. Still looking for a swivel base and lock for it, in the mean time using one from a scrap Rock Island for mounting purposes







 

jason n

Active member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
26
Location
WI
another one came in today for scrap. its pretty rusty but still seems to function ok. it don't appear to be cracked or broken anywhere. Morgan Chicago 140. hopefully the pics don't disappear like the last ones
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Tonellin

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Oct 24, 2012
Messages
507
Location
Boston
another one came in today for scrap. its pretty rusty but still seems to function ok. it don't appear to be cracked or broken anywhere. Morgan Chicago 140. hopefully the pics don't disappear like the last ones
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If you can't use it I'll buy the swivel lock!! Been looking forever for a 140 swivel lock. I've been using this stupid bolt setup...

 

rusty65

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Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
2,279
Location
Pekin,IL
I acquired an antique jeweler's workbench this morning. This 2-inch vise with a swivel jaw was attached to it. No markings. Does anyone recognize it? Outlaw thinks it might be a Parker.

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Very nice vise yes that's a Parker.
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compunaut

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May 2, 2017
Messages
144
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Bellaire, Sandman: PMs sent to each/both.

All: I put hydrant pics in an album in my Public Profile. I think everyone can see them there (?)
 
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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,236
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The Badlands
Yep! Parker like I suspected!

I think its funny that the very largest AND the very smallest Parker's had two screws for the main screw retainer, and the rest used one...!
 

va.grouseman

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Had two Prentisses to arrive today, well yesterday now.---One is a Coach-maker And one is a baby Shepard.---Took one pic of the Monarch with the flash off and one with it on just for contrast.---Monarch has a missing lock-down and a chip on the little overhang up front.---This is my third Prentiss Coach-Maker and every-one has a chip or a break but in different places on the vises.---I don't think there is one out there with a no damaged condition.:dunno:

The Baby Shepard doesn't say Shepard on the side but it looks the same as the other two.

Prentiss weighs 50.6 lbs., and Shepard weighs 10.2 lbs.
 

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va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
Pics of the Shepard No. 69, and the latest Baby Shepard and then the No. 60.








 

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Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
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East Bay SFO
Ryan:
I'm a little late to the praise party but I concur... YOU ****!
I paid 10 times as much for my 5191 and thought I got a fair deal.
Postage for me was over 3 times what you paid. Paint yours or use it as is... you will remember the day you brought it home.
 

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Jawn

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Jul 29, 2011
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Stuck in traffic, GA
Just snagged this old Wilton at an estate sale (as well as the bench it's sitting on, with an English-made Record woodworking vise attached!). Slide/screw of the Wilton was dry as a bone, but fortunately not seized up. Appears to be in great shape aside from a slight bend in the handle, should clean up nicely.

Paid $30 for the Wilton, $95 for the bench with the Record.

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Bonus picture of the new bench, since the Record is attached to it:

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drivesitfar

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Pacific Northwest
VA: i can't say i've seen an open screw coachmaker's vise so thanks for sharing. i also think my Prentiss #26 coachmaker swivel jaw vise doesn't have any damage to it so maybe they all didn't get abused. i also bought my #26 from a 75 year old son of the original owner that almost got really upset when i asked if he'd ever had the swivel jaw pin out or used that option cause he said it didn't work like that.

my Desmond Stephen coachmaker seems to be quite a bit heavier than my Prentiss and i'll have to post them side by side and weigh them when i find them again.

LUG:
very cool find with your bench and small vise combo. Rusty's catalog page showing that it could be Victor doesn't tell me for sure that it's a Parker unless that is a Parker catalog which it could be.

i agree with Outlaw that Parker usually had 2 screws on their screw holders on their 6 inch and bigger Parker vises and your holder is more like a newer Union holder. it might be a Desmond Stephen that had some similar features as a Parker, but maybe Rusty will show more of the catalog to tell us why he says it's a Parker.

i like the slotted screws that were used to mount it and i probably like the little vises almost as much as the HUGE ones. i wouldn't ask you to remove any of that patina, but if you do and want to post pictures of the side of them that might help with the Parker ID.

Well done!!
 

tool_scrounge

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Jul 20, 2010
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Southern California
Do these look like broken and rewelded Parker vises? It is hard to tell from the marginal photos but it seems to look that way. If so, is this a common failure location on Parker vises?
 

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rusty65

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Pekin,IL
Do these look like broken and rewelded Parker vises? It is hard to tell from the marginal photos but it seems to look that way. If so, is this a common failure location on Parker vises?
Honestly it does look welded to me and that's a common weak spot for all vise manufacturers.

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Private Lugnutz

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Mar 30, 2012
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The Authentic Jersey Shore
Thanks for the help with the ID, Rusty. The catalog excerpt made me measure the jaws more precisely than I did at the flea market when I picked it up. They are 1-7/8" exactly. The whole thing is 6" long from back to front when the screw is fully closed.

I wouldn't ask you to remove any of that patina, but if you do and want to post pictures of the side of them that might help with the Parker ID.
If you mean with the hopes of revealing markings, drives, trust me, there are no markings on this vise. It's very clean. That patina you see is steel deep.

I posted more photos of the workbench here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=362948

And here are more of the vise:

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I could use some help/expertise.

I can't get the swivel jaw to swivel. I thought that knob was a pin through the swivel jaw, into the base of the jaw, but it's not. It's part of the jaw (cast or welded, I guess). But the jaw won't budge. Actually, it will budge a hair. Enough to rattle it a little. It's not frozen or stuck. But it won't lift. I was able to slip a feeler gage underneath it. That's about it. It's almost like here's a release catch or something, which there isn't. Am I missing something obvious?
 
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Shiftless

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14,544
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East Bay SFO
Seems to me that there is absolutely no room there for a spring loaded release mechanism. If you are ready to remove the vise from the bench, you can probably pull the slide all the way out and inspect that area from below.
I had a very hard time pulling the stuck pin out of my Reed 406 swivel jaw vise but finally succeeded (with the help of others) :beer:
If you have more specific questions just post on the vise repair pages. I also PM'ed you my email address.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Lug: more than likely your pin holding the swivel jaw in place is rusted in place and you'll have to take the dynamic jaw out and then use Kroil and maybe a homemade tool some of the guys showed us on the Vise Repair 101 thread to push it up and out. then getting the swivel jaw loose might be another example of time and patience. i bet it's going to be ok cause it doesn't look beat on or abused and i would have bought it for the vise almost as much as the old wood bench.

i wasn't looking for any #'s or writing cause it looks like it was one of those that might have been made for a company that had a label or a box to put it in with their name on it. what i was asking about is to see the profile of the jaws from the side like so many of the members have shined up even if they have painted their Parker vises. it doesn't look like it has Parker jaws so it might just be an older vise of theirs. another couple pictures of the screw holder might tell us something too and it's the piece with the two screws in it.

post up pictures of your vise on the vise repair 101 thread and ask questions there if you want to and if you do a search for swivel jaw pin removal you should get several member's examples of how they removed and got their swivel jaws working.

good luck
 

G-ManBart

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Jan 24, 2015
Messages
2,059
Location
Michigan
This is my third Prentiss Coach-Maker and every-one has a chip or a break but in different places on the vises.---I don't think there is one out there with a no damaged condition.:dunno:

Mine doesn't have any chips or cracks...and it's looking for a new home where it will get used. :D

 

G-ManBart

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Jan 24, 2015
Messages
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Location
Michigan
Finished up this little Wilton C0, double pin today. I made new pins out of stainless so they wouldn't get rusty. I really like how it turned out. I didn't bother with new jaws, a new handle, or even running the handle on the belt sander as that just seems to make them rust worse. I tried to keep my cost and time down on it so this could be a user for somebody, not a museum piece.

I think the last one I saw like this on eBay went for something crazy like $625...yikes!







 

Private Lugnutz

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Mar 30, 2012
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The Authentic Jersey Shore
Shiftless, Drives,

I already had the sliding jaw all the way off, and I inspected inside the slide shaft as well as I could without taking the base off the bench, which I am loathe to do. (I know, there should be no logical reason for it not going back on just fine with the same hardware etc, but I've been here before with other things and ruined them, so, I am hesitant to remove it right now.) I cleaned out the whole slide slot with a can of pressurized air and oil. There was no grime and no rust. The action on this thing was smooth as silk before I even did that. Anyway, I found a hole directly underneath the swivel jaw, where the knob is. Using a short arm hex key, I gingerly applied a little upwards pressure, with no effect.

You saw me say the jaw is moving, right? Slightly, but moving. I can rattle it in all directions by grabbing the jaw itself, or by grabbing the knob. I don't know how it could be rusted frozen but moving freely like that. It just won't lift more than a hair.

I guess I'll go try to find more info about the homemade tool on the Repair thread. What is the point of the tool? To clear an obstruction? Or just jostle the pin? Again, I am having a hard time understanding how the pin could be stuck if the jaw is rattling. But maybe I'm not understanding how the pin works.

I'll move this subject over there.
 

G-ManBart

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Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
2,059
Location
Michigan
After finishing up on the C0 I finished up a 500S I bought recently. It had such minor use marks I didn't even try removing them so folks can tell it's almost unused. It looked terrible when I got it, but it obviously mostly just sat for years (1982 stamp on the key).







 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,236
Location
The Badlands
Shiftless, Drives,

I already had the sliding jaw all the way off, and I inspected inside the slide shaft as well as I could without taking the base off the bench, which I am loathe to do. (I know, there should be no logical reason for it not going back on just fine with the same hardware etc, but I've been here before with other things and ruined them, so, I am hesitant to remove it right now.) I cleaned out the whole slide slot with a can of pressurized air and oil. There was no grime and no rust. The action on this thing was smooth as silk before I even did that. Anyway, I found a hole directly underneath the swivel jaw, where the knob is. Using a short arm hex key, I gingerly applied a little upwards pressure, with no effect.

You saw me say the jaw is moving, right? Slightly, but moving. I can rattle it in all directions by grabbing the jaw itself, or by grabbing the knob. I don't know how it could be rusted frozen but moving freely like that. It just won't lift more than a hair.

I guess I'll go try to find more info about the homemade tool on the Repair thread. What is the point of the tool? To clear an obstruction? Or just jostle the pin? Again, I am having a hard time understanding how the pin could be stuck if the jaw is rattling. But maybe I'm not understanding how the pin works.

I'll move this subject over there.

Lug the tapered pin is rusted either into the jaw or the body. A little pressure upwards will help and the way to do that is with a jack screw.

You can make that with a coupler nut, a bold and maybe a segment of a bolt for the pushrod. (Just 2-3 threads into the coupler)

This is a small vise so careful with too much pressure. Once you have some pressure, use a brass or dead blow hammer to hit the head of the pin sort of diagonally. Of course penetrating oil where you can get it as well.
 

KMScott

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Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,641
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Hey Lug's, I am thumbs up with what Outlaw said, I agree that the pin could be rusted into the static support and loos in the swivel jaw portion. Here are some pictures of what Outlaw mentioned, yours will have to be lot smaller hardware. Be sure to put a plate above the dove tail casting so you are not pushing on a fragile casting.

G-Man, nice job on those SS pipe jaw pins, did you forge the ends? Always curious on repairs others do.
 

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