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New 3 bay in the works

spent21

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
168
Location
Franklin, Tn
I've been absent lately dealing with the sale of my last house with a 2+ garage, a new house purchase, the move, the wreck & part-out of my truck, the purchase of another daily driver, and a divorce thrown in for some color.

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The new place lacks a garage of any sort which grants me the luxury & anxiousness of designing my own, so I'm here for input which I anticipate includes 'go bigger'

With that being said, I've already stepped this build up from a 24x30 to a 24x40 & was impressed with the 30x40 I just visited although the price tag for the latter is a bit steep considering the circumstances & I'm not planning on going to a crew cab truck.

I used Mueller's design tool (which has it's limitations) to get an idea of the building & smart draw for the floorplan

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Since Mueller is a metal building manufacturer, the rendering looks like a metal building.

I'm planning on a detached stick build (for home mechanic/ hobby use) with 10' wide doors, 60 or 100 amp service, water, 2-post lift, & taking in half of the rear lean-to for the mower & quads & such. I'll probably build storage shelves in that area as well. Most likely, it will be hardy plank with a shingled roof. I'm planning on insulating it so I have the option to condition it later. This is in my back yard of a residential neighborhood. Although there's no HOA, it will be visible from the street, so I'd like to keep it from looking too industrial & resale value is a concern.

I've had 3 separate GC's look at it & I've decided on one, but still need to discuss specifics with him. I'm planning on him completing the concrete & shell. I'll run the electrical, plumbing, & wall insulation before he returns to finish the drywall & concrete coating.

I'm undecided on the height... I *may* be able to get away with 10' wall heights, but it's going to be close & I doubt I'll ever get full height out of the lift. Will 11' work or is 12' necessary? The shorter the wall height, the more 'residential' it will appear.

Doors - what's better regarding insulated doors? If it were no issue, I'd choose roll-up's for the clearance. I'm not sure how well they would perform from a conditioned space standpoint. As far as panel doors, is it better to purchase the insulated ones or insulate them myself? I had great luck with my last one, but don't know how well the factory insulated ones perform:
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should I ditch the 3 separate doors, & go 1 double 1 single?

Floor - anyone had any luck with stained concrete? Is it slick & how does it hold up to oil/gas/spills?

Orientation - I figured the lift would be better on the open end close to tools & counter space. I just rolled my box into the work area at my last place

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I thought it may be more convenient this way :dunno:

I think I've ruled out a floor drain.

Floor pitch - the last place was pitched towards the door which was great for washing the place out. I'm undecided to do the same if I'm planning on the lift. Should I pitch this floor & build up the footer for the lift to be even or just make the entire floor even?

The outside grade pitches ever so slightly towards the front door, so should I do a grate/french drain there or will a small 1/2" - 3/4" step suffice?

I'm used to dealing with what I get & cussing the guy that built it one way or another.... now that I'm that guy, well, paralysis by analysis is setting in.:willy_nil
 
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sleek98

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Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
687
Location
Kansas City, MO
Use scissor truss in the lift bay with a 10 foot wall, well 10' 6" wall including stem wall. with a 2:12 interior pitch you would end up with 12' 6" center height to put the lift in.
 
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spent21

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Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
168
Location
Franklin, Tn
I would turn the trusses and put doors in a gable end vs the eve side.

The gable end doors won't work for me for a number of different reasons...
Geographical orientation for starters, but more importantly in how i'm using the space. The lift would have to go dead center for clearance, & I'm anticipating at least one immobile project at any given time while also using it for a garage. Shuffling stuff around just to get in & out isn't in the cards.
 
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spent21

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
168
Location
Franklin, Tn
Use scissor truss in the lift bay with a 10 foot wall, well 10' 6" wall including stem wall. with a 2:12 interior pitch you would end up with 12' 6" center height to put the lift in.

My builder suggested scissor trusses, but neglected mentioning a stem wall. My previous attached garage had about 18" aff of cmu block that I thought was the footer seen here...
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Is that what you're calling a stem wall?
 
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Low50s

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Joined
Aug 2, 2014
Messages
171
Location
NE Iowa
I am in the process of a 30x40x14 right now so I would have the room for a lift plus a loft for parts. I decided to go with 1 double door and 1 extra tall door I am using one 16x8 and one 12x12 the lift will go in the 12x12 bay
 
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sleek98

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Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
687
Location
Kansas City, MO
Yes, that is what I mean by a stem wall. Around here most at 6-12" just to get the wood above grade. I like it because you can wash out the floor without worrying about getting the walls wet.
 

marty_p

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
1,411
Location
SE LoUiSiAna
Very nice way to bounce back from a lot of ****. :thumbup:

I will be watching your build, as I hope to do something similar myself soon.
 

astroracer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
3,001
Location
Mid_Michigan
24' deep (actually 23' on the inside is pretty narrow. Walking and moving equipment around either end of the vehicle will be tight. 28' minimum on the width. 30' is roomy.
Looking at your SmartDraw rendering you can see how tight 40' is with three doors. There is no room on the wall for storage or benches and opening the car doors is going to be tight also, especially at the hoist. Look for at least 4' between the doors and a wall and that same amount between doors. You will need the room to comfortably work around the vehicles with car doors open.
if you can't go 48' on the length make the left two doors into a 16' and leave the 10 at the hoist. Put the 16' door 4' off the wall.
Mark
 
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