For caliper slide pins?

[jobo1004]

The ceramic paste isn't designed for use on slide pins, its for lubricating the backs of pads and the metal hardware in the caliper. The silicone one will be fine for the pins.

Per Permatex's own website: "Suggested Applications: Caliper pins, hardware, and the back-side of brake pads."

https://www.permatex.com/products/l...atex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/

 

[artbuc]

Per Permatex's own website: "Suggested Applications: Caliper pins, hardware, and the back-side of brake pads."

https://www.permatex.com/products/l...atex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/

Label might say it is ok but I found this stuff dries out fast causing pins to stick. Same with CRC graphite and Permatex Green Ultra. These lubes do not work well on slide pins, imo. Sly-glide or equivalent silicone based lubes work best on caliper pins.

 

[Jp267]

Last time I did mine I used the 3M silicone paste. I use it as an electrical engineer for Dielectric grease but it works amazing fur slide pins, and keeping the rubber boots and caliper piston seals lubricated and protected.

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[Jp267]

This is the stuff here.

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[sberry]

I used both, syl and common grease which despite the rumors didn't really seem to hurt much and think it actually works better on the pins. It doesn't mean you got to slobber it all over and pack the boots full.

 

[Finky198]

I used the crc stuff that Chrisnazzy posted. I mainly use it on trucks, jeep, and trailers so I'm less worried about plastic and rubber and more concerned with heat, moisture and preventing damage. While towing or in the woods. It's great on drum brakes for piviot point and pins. On zj discs there not much rubber just the boot around the pins and the piston. So any metal to metal contact I just add a thin coat. I use the orange quieter stuff or the back of the pads.

 

[Treeman]

I used the crc stuff that Chrisnazzy posted. I mainly use it on trucks, jeep, and trailers so I'm less worried about plastic and rubber and more concerned with heat, moisture and preventing damage. While towing or in the woods. It's great on drum brakes for piviot point and pins. On zj discs there not much rubber just the boot around the pins and the piston. So any metal to metal contact I just add a thin coat. I use the orange quieter stuff or the back of the pads.

But, there are much better products for weather exposed, water washout prone, metal to metal brake applications. If I remember correct, that CRC stuff has less than 5% solids (moly, graphite,teflon).

These following 2 products have in excess of 40% solids, they are completely water proof, and are brake safe. Take a dab in the palm, hold it under the sink, and see it not absorb any water. Try that with Silglyde and other products and they turn milky from water absorption.

With the high solids paste, when the oils finally dissipate from them, the moly solids leave a boundary lubrication (marbels) to continue lubing the metal to metal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM...ash=item19fc4b5754:g:WAsAAOSwNSxU7OgC&vxp=mtr

https://goodson.com/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant


And repeating once again about rubber/metal pin lubrication, some vehicle brands are sensitive to swelling if you venture away from silicone or OEM recommendations, even when the package says rubber safe! Google it: https://www.google.com/search?q=brake+rubber+swelling&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

[rlitman]

...With the high solids paste, when the oils finally dissipate from them, the moly solids leave a boundary lubrication (marbels) to continue lubing the metal to metal...

When the grease washes out, any solids will have washed out too.

Moly is only useful on steel to steel contact. It plates itself onto the steel, and helps there (where the thin film of moly that is bonded to the steel will not wash out), but is not going to do a damn thing on steel to rubber contact that you get on caliper pins, and is known to accelerate wear and corrosion in other instances (such as steel to bronze bushings). Moly is far from a panacea.

I'll stick with the pure silicone grease, or something comparable.

 

[jessesandy]

Honda seems to think they are pretty special. This is the only thing they approve.


I just use any generic pin lube for the brakes... no problems.
Went to the dealer to get this lube for the clutch job and they didn't have any. A mechanic gave me this empty jar, though. (Gee, thanks)
Just used the packet that came with the clutch... no problems.

 

[FP||]

I've been trying to get my hands on a reasonable amount of this stuff:

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=8808EN

Dow seems to think it's the ****

 

[tym]

This is the stuff here.

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I switched to this after finding the Sil-Glyde (in packets at the parts counter) seemed to wash out pretty quickly up here in New England, where brakes get doused in lots of junk in the winter.

I also picked up a small amount of Dow Molykote M77 for the backs of the pads, but haven't tested extensively yet. It is expensive, so it must be good, right?

 

[Jp267]

I've been trying to get my hands on a reasonable amount of this stuff:

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=8808EN

Dow seems to think it's the ****

Checked an industrial vendor I use from the UK. I could order you some if you want to pay shipping from me to you. Assuming you're in the states. I'll just get them to comp me some on my next order.

It looks interesting!

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[Jp267]

I switched to this after finding the Sil-Glyde (in packets at the parts counter) seemed to wash out pretty quickly up here in New England, where brakes get doused in lots of junk in the winter.

I also picked up a small amount of Dow Molykote M77 for the backs of the pads, but haven't tested extensively yet. It is expensive, so it must be good, right?

Hmm I'm in CT and haven't had a problem with washout though I use it liberally. Not sure.

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[Jp267]

I switched to this after finding the Sil-Glyde (in packets at the parts counter) seemed to wash out pretty quickly up here in New England, where brakes get doused in lots of junk in the winter.

I also picked up a small amount of Dow Molykote M77 for the backs of the pads, but haven't tested extensively yet. It is expensive, so it must be good, right?

Actually I apologise. I deal with Kraydon here in the states as well and could get it from them. Didn't see they stocked it.

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[FP||]

Checked an industrial vendor I use from the UK. I could order you some if you want to pay shipping from me to you. Assuming you're in the states. I'll just get them to comp me some on my next order.

It looks interesting!

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Sweet, thanks! I'm trying to get a supplier in the states to sell to me so I'll let you know if that doesn't work.

 

[Jp267]

Sweet, thanks! I'm trying to get a supplier in the states to sell to me so I'll let you know if that doesn't work.

Yeah just drop me a PM or whatever. Good luck! May order some for myself to try it[emoji106]

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[MJD1]

I bought these two.... Not sure if they are good.

That's the best lube for brake parts. Sylglide is OK but doesn't stay in place as long as that stuff

 

[48548]

That's the best lube for brake parts. Sylglide is OK but doesn't stay in place as long as that stuff

Thanks, a guy I met on a duramax forum told me about the gm stuff... he died of cancer and he was a cool dude... wish I could have got more info from him, only one of the hand full of people I met and helped from a forum...

 

[rlitman]

I bought these two.... Not sure if they are good.

I've used the Permatex ultra disc brake caliper lube (the green stuff), and have found that it swells some rubber parts, so it's fine for pad backs, but not fine for caliper pins. For caliper pins, I'm sticking with a pure silicone grease like you found.

My understanding is that the purple stuff is basically the green grease with more solids added. It should be very good.

 

[Jp267]

I've also used this on slide pins and it works well:

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[Treeman]

Moly is only useful on steel to steel contact. I'll stick with the pure silicone grease, or something comparable.

Maybe you missed key points in my thread?? I.e., the exposed "metal to metal" part at the beginning? The "silicone only" at the bottom for the pins/rubber part??

I recommend the moly paste where exposed metal to metal will burnish it in. Places like the pad "ears" that ride in the caliper, or the old style totally exposed "slides", drum brake contact points, etc..

 

[rlitman]

Did you not read my thread? I.e., the exposed "metal to metal" part at the beginning? The "silicone only" at the bottom for the pins/rubber part??

I recommend the moly paste where exposed metal to metal will burnish it in. Places like the pad "ears" that ride in the caliper, or the old style totally exposed "slides", drum brake contact points, etc..

Ah. Gotcha. Yeah, moly wouldn't hurt in any of those places.

 

[Finky198]

^^^ Those are exactly two places I use the crc stuff...

I agree I'm sure theirs better stuff out their but for the price the crc it works and it last long enough that things don't prematurely wear or fail... next go around maybe I'll try something new.

 

[Treeman]

Please excuse me when my OCD passion regarding brake lubes gets the best of me. The important thing to keep pounding in is that certain vehicle brand brake rubber swells if you don't use the correct product, even when the product proclaims "rubber safe". Others seem to dry out and gum up in the enclosed pin application. I learned the hard way, trying out all the new-fangled, uber temperature, unicorn dust products.