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Different sized doors.

old__man

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Good day all,

This is my first post. I am about to build a 24X24. I will have many questions in the future but my first question is about different sized doors. Does anyone have a picture of what a 24X24 garage looks like with a standard door next to a small golf cart sized door?

Is this a good idea? This garage will be used to house a project car, small wood work area in the back, as well as my quad which will be on snow plow duty this winter. My thinking is to open a small a door as possible during snow storms to get the quad in and out.

Thoughts?
 
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blair683

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I would want the bigger door in the center that way you can pull a car in and have room on both sides. The size of your bigger door will determine and most likely limit the size of your smaller door.
 
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old__man

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Would a 24' wide have enough room for a garage door center, man door on one side, and small 'golf cart' door on the other?
 

bad_idea

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How about this: Two standard garage doors on the front face and a set of double man doors on the side. The quad should fit out of the double doors easy enough. The face of the garage will look nice with two standard doors on it.

Either way, I will be watching this thread as I'll be building a garage of similar size soon.
 

jetnow1

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If you do this I would header it for a 2nd full size door, frame it out for the 2nd full size, then close it down. If you ever sell it will be much easier to make it a normal 2 car, much better for resale.
 

JRC3

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How about this: Two standard garage doors on the front face...

This is what I'd do and be done. That way one door could be opened for snow removal. A standard garage door isn't much bigger than double swing open doors, it is way more secure, it will be more weather-tight, and it won't be blowing around in the wind like swing doors. Also ease of opening and closing. Imagine having to open double doors, pull out quad then go back and close the doors. If blowing snow is a concern, a garage door opener in a pocket sure would speed things up and be so much easier. Of course you'd still want a standard entry door for foot traffic.
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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Unless you are heating the space you are better off with "standard" sized doors. Many door companies charge extra for cutting down a door. 8 x 6 is as small as you can go without special order. How small are you talking?
 
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old__man

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Well, I guess I should just keep things simple and go with two normal, equally sized, doors on the front and a man door on the side. What's a good sized door for that case on a 24' wide garage?

Also, where do I post a picture thread of my build?
 

bad_idea

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My planned garage is 25x25 (working with an existing slab). I am planning two 9' wide doors spaced 2' from each side and 3' between them.
 

jetnow1

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your building department will have the final say on how large you can go without expensive engineered solutions, you have to leave enough on each side for shear panels.
How much will depend on local codes, but in most places a minimum of 2 feet on each end and 2 feet in the middle is ok. Don't know what your codes or wind loads are.
 

NUTTSGT

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I know it's not ideal and but it will work for me.

If you're stuck with that size, I'd atleast try to make the side walls 10' rather 8'. While it may seem overkill, try messing with a 4x8 sheet of whatever with a low ceiling and not hit the lights.

If you're heating it, make sure to buy better doors with insulation and 2x6 walls will allow more insulation. While it's more expensive upfront, it'll pay for it's self every day you heat/cool the space.
 
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old__man

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If you're stuck with that size, I'd atleast try to make the side walls 10' rather 8'. While it may seem overkill, try messing with a 4x8 sheet of whatever with a low ceiling and not hit the lights.

If you're heating it, make sure to buy better doors with insulation and 2x6 walls will allow more insulation. While it's more expensive upfront, it'll pay for it's self every day you heat/cool the space.

That's essentially my plan. 10' walls, 2x6, 24 OC. I'm still trying to figure out if I can go with a single top plate if the trusses fall right on the studs...to save on thermal bridging.
 

Jamie V

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If you plan on insulating it you might want to check the price difference between insulation for 16" vs 24" centers. When I went to buy the insulation for my garage I wish I had have put my studs on 16" centers. The money I would have saved on insulation would have paid for the wood plus some.

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old__man

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If you plan on insulating it you might want to check the price difference between insulation for 16" vs 24" centers. When I went to buy the insulation for my garage I wish I had have put my studs on 16" centers. The money I would have saved on insulation would have paid for the wood plus some.

Interesting, I never thought of that and there is a marked difference. About $0.5/sqft for 16OC and $0.75/sqft for 24OC. I wonder why that is.

If my math is correct that's about $200 difference for the insulation which oddly enough is about the same for the added lumber of going 16OC. Maybe that's why it's priced that way.

Thanks for the tip, I will investigate further.
 
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old__man

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IMO it's becuase 16OC is FAR, FAR more common. 1000 homes built at 16oc for every detached garage/oddball construction at 24".

I thought 24 OC was becoming the new thing for thermal efficiency. Is it still that uncommon?
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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Size of doors depend on what vehicles you want to get in. A dually won't fit in a 9' door and a high top van needs 8' tall so 2 10 x 8's should fill the front of the building. Go smaller depending on what you drive. Just thinking out loud.
 

The Cobbler

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yeah, when I framed & insulated my basement the added cost of insulation for 24" centers was more than buying the extra studs to frame @ 16" centers
mind you, there is a labour factor in there that we're not calculating. less studs & each pc of insulation covers 50% more area for 24" centers .

now, back to the original question. I had a 45 wide shop that I installed a 3' man door, and matched height, style etc 10' wide shop door & a 6' wide door for the garden tractor etc. it looked fine worked as intended and never had second thoughts I did the wrong thing
 

PT Doc

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Interesting, I never thought of that and there is a marked difference. About $0.5/sqft for 16OC and $0.75/sqft for 24OC. I wonder why that is. .

50% larger cavity with going to 24oc. 50% increase in cost to insulate this cavity. Seems very logical at least to me.
 

bad_idea

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50% larger cavity with going to 24oc. 50% increase in cost to insulate this cavity. Seems very logical at least to me.

His prices are per square foot, not roll. A square foot is a square foot, no matter how wide the roll of insulation is.
 

rburke65

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Why is this so hard? As bad idea said.....it's priced by the SQUARE FOOT. Even if it's a 40' wide roll......if it's the same thickness.....it's by the square foot. Ok.....now I need a drink..
 

MCoop

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If you do this I would header it for a 2nd full size door, frame it out for the 2nd full size, then close it down. If you ever sell it will be much easier to make it a normal 2 car, much better for resale.

I agree. I know I am new here but when we bought our house our realtor told us a 2 car garage will help resale much more than a single. She said this because I expressed interest in building a 30x40 shop.
 

bradleykd

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Georgetown, KY
I wanted a small golf-cart sized door for my mower garage on the back side of my house. The doors cost a lot more than the 8x8 and now I can say I have a 4 car garage rather than a 3 car garage. Much better to go with a standard door.
 
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