The VISES of Garage Journal

[GETRIDAONE]

Your vise, your choice. If going for originality, I suspect it was originally painted. Most thing made of cast iron are painted all over, then machined, hence only the machined areas don't have paint on them.

I agree in that it would one less step to paint and mask after machining. They must have blocked each end of the housing because I have never noticed any finish on the inside of the housing on Parker vises.

Mark, It will be awhile before I get done, leaving on a two week trip and out of time to finish.
I will have plenty of time to think about it while camping and

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I'd polish it up a bit and leave bare metal.

Very interesting for me to see all the other parts, I have a No 23 here in the UK which makes it pretty rare but I'm missing some of the bolt through parts and a collar. If anyone has parts for one and are prepared toship to the Uk please let me know. I'd near kill for the toggle spanner

I feel fortunate to have one with all the parts. I agree the swivel wrench is a nice touch. Most through the bench mounts came with various styles of wing nuts.

 

[gman007]

Gman, no separate latching mechanism.

trijeff
Cheers
007

 

[ganymede]

A gift from a kind member here.
My ol Rock Island finally has the appropriate tag !
Thank you thehorse13
Next up, some hard steel knurled jaws.

View media item 74458

 

[mike_paxton]

Picked up a few vises.

Pic 1--USA made Columbian No. 606M3 vise with 6" Jaws. Max opening 11 inches. Weight of 90 pounds. Came with pair of copper jaw caps but not pictured with them on. No swivel base.

Pic 2--Wilton 6" vise with anvil & double clamped swivel base. 43 pounds. Believe to be foreign made. Came with pair of Wilton copper jaw caps #341-J-327.

Pic 3--Columbian No. 3040 with 4" jaws and pictured on left side. Anvil and Swivel Base. 28 pounds. Believe to be foreign made.

On right side of pic 3, a little Columbian No. 53 USA made vise with 3" jaws and Red Arrow marked on one side.

Mike

 

[zoomieport]

Hello All,

I hope you are well!

I picked the up on eBay for $21.00, shipped.
It's not typically my style of vise, but I bought it for a few reasons...

I don't recall seeing a Blue Devil vise on here...
It was made in Oakland, Ca...
Its aluminum...

And I thought the coolest feature was the 2" smooth "Offset Jaws" (think Dawn), 3/4" on the right side of center, 1-1/4" to the left of center...

Take care All!
Mike

 

[jimreed2160]

Hi All
Does anyone know why Prentiss vises seem to have gap (please see photo below) between the jaws and jaw inserts (the gap is only right at the outer edge of jaws and is not all the way through which would be really a bad idea)?

The reason I am asking is that even after I removed the jaw insert screws, the inserts would not come off the jaws. I am not sure if the inserts are just stuck because of rust/paint or something else.

I did gently tap them on the side with a hammer to no avail. I did not use too much force as I was not sure if there is some kind of secondary latching mechanism that is holding them in place. The inserts appear to be U shaped. Are the gaps to be used to pry them off or slide them off side ways or something else?

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.
007

My guess is that the roundover was easier to machine without breaking those sharp corners. Anyway, your jaws are probably rusted in place. Use a good solvent and tap them lightly with a hammer. A day in the sun would help. Given enough time and gentle treatment they will eventually give up the ghost. Good luck.

 

[Shiftless]

My guess is that the roundover was easier to machine without breaking those sharp corners. Anyway, your jaws are probably rusted in place. Use a good solvent and tap them lightly with a hammer. A day in the sun would help. Given enough time and gentle treatment they will eventually give up the ghost. Good luck.

I agree with Jim
When he said "solvent" I bet he was thinking penetrating oil. I like Kroil or a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. I also keep a squirt can oiler full of marvel mystery oil handy. It works too.

 

[gman007]

I agree with Jim
When he said "solvent" I bet he was thinking penetrating oil. I like Kroil or a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. I also keep a squirt can oiler full of marvel mystery oil handy. It works too.

jim and shift
Thank you for the advice , I applied Kroil to the jaws and will wait a while.
I just want to make sure that there are no surprises when I try applying a bit of Persuasion
Cheers
Ed

 

[akasrick]

Should the horn be painted or left bare metal ?
Any opinions on why or why not

I thought it would be different to high lite the whole back. If I don't like can always redo the horn. Partially finished pictures.

akasrick

 

[chrisnazzy]

Got this little guy today. It was just too cool to pass up! A quick clean and what looks like the original green paint is coming through....really digging the patina!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[RagTopTA]

so, I have been working on my old Cole Swivel, copy cat vise. Getting it closer to where it needs to be. But, the spring that goes on the main shaft that pushes the jaws back open is broken in the middle. I have looked all over and cant find another one to replace it with. So, I'm looking at repairing this spring. what are yall thoughts on this ? I can try to weld it back where it broke.. Or lay it over lapping and get a better small bead on it. which I think would make it a lot stronger. Ideas? thoughts ? I have Mig, Tig, and ducktape available.

 

[va.grouseman]

Lap it like in the last pic, heat it cherry red and hammer fuse it together, then quick dip it in water to restore some temper.

Edit---Better yet, take your torch with a brazing/welding tip and melt them together.

 

[damnesia]

so, I have been working on my old Cole Swivel, copy cat vise. Getting it closer to where it needs to be. But, the spring that goes on the main shaft that pushes the jaws back open is broken in the middle. I have looked all over and cant find another one to replace it with. So, I'm looking at repairing this spring. what are yall thoughts on this ? I can try to weld it back where it broke.. Or lay it over lapping and get a better small bead on it. which I think would make it a lot stronger. Ideas? thoughts ? I have Mig, Tig, and ducktape available.

I would try to modify another spring before I'd attempt to fix that one.

 

[RagTopTA]

Lap it like in the last pic, heat it cherry red and hammer fuse it together, then quick dip it in water to restore some temper.

Edit---Better yet, take your torch with a brazing/welding tip and melt them together.

that sounds like a goodplan, got that set up out in the shop as well...

Dont have another choice.. this spring is pretty rare im thinking.

 

[Shiftless]

Like damnesia just said, I would try to find a similar new spring rather than patching up an old spring by welding and losing the temper. Try different springs and see which one works the best.

 

[lis2323]

Try using just a regular spring with slightly larger diameter than the screw with a heavy washer on each end.

Terry

 

[RagTopTA]

Like damnesia just said, I would try to find a similar new spring rather than patching up an old spring by welding and losing the temper. Try different springs and see which one works the best.[/QUOTE

I'll have to do some looking around more then, not sure where to find something built the same but I guess its just gotta work. I'll do some measuring on it tomorrow and see if I can find something close online...

 

[Outlawmws]

Instead of applying heat, make a tight fitting sleeve, pre-bend it slightly; heat THAT up and press fit together?

Does it get fully compressed? I don't imagine a lot of tension is required to open the jaws...

 

[RagTopTA]

Instead of applying heat, make a tight fitting sleeve, pre-bend it slightly; heat THAT up and press fit together?

Does it get fully compressed? I don't imagine a lot of tension is required to open the jaws...

not sure how much it takes when the hinge is fully freed up.. It was frozen, but I have it woring now.. just not freely just yet... a sleeve might do the trick good idea Outlaw! i think it would be about halfway compressed when the vise is closed al the way

 

[damnesia]

Finished this one up tonight. I tried a new paint and in hindsight I should have thinned it ( or used a different paint ). With that said, I'm not thrilled with the paint job. This one will get mounted to my workbench and see active duty. I was pretty happy with how the handle turned out. It's not perfectly straight, but close enough for a vise handle. Anyway, some before and after shots.

 

[gman007]

Finished this one up tonight. I tried a new paint and in hindsight I should have thinned it ( or used a different paint ). With that said, I'm not thrilled with the paint job. This one will get mounted to my workbench and see active duty. I was pretty happy with how the handle turned out. It's not perfectly straight, but close enough for a vise handle. Anyway, some before and after shots.

damnesia
While the paint as you said might have been a bit thick, the raised lettering were already a bit worn out so overall it does not look too bad and you did a great job with the handle. This baby should server you well for years to come. Great job
007

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Got this little guy today. It was just too cool to pass up! A quick clean and what looks like the original green paint is coming through....really digging the patina!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

That oval label looks like a Walker Turner label .
I think it was made by Luther Grinder and relabeled.

 

[Bellaireroad]

A gift from a kind member here.

My ol Rock Island finally has the appropriate tag !

Thank you thehorse13

Next up, some hard steel knurled jaws.



View media item 74458

That color really works on the wood top bench


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[mrcrawfish]

Lap it like in the last pic, heat it cherry red and hammer fuse it together, then quick dip it in water to restore some temper.

Edit---Better yet, take your torch with a brazing/welding tip and melt them together.

Forge welding that without smashing up the spring would be incredibly difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ganymede]

That color really works on the wood top bench

Thank you.

 

[Shiftless]

ganymede:
Could you please share with us the brand and name of that color. I too am diggin' the burgundy.

 

[lis2323]

so, I have been working on my old Cole Swivel, copy cat vise. Getting it closer to where it needs to be. But, the spring that goes on the main shaft that pushes the jaws back open is broken in the middle. I have looked all over and cant find another one to replace it with. So, I'm looking at repairing this spring. what are yall thoughts on this ? I can try to weld it back where it broke.. Or lay it over lapping and get a better small bead on it. which I think would make it a lot stronger. Ideas? thoughts ? I have Mig, Tig, and ducktape available.

Another suggestion. Locate a new spring slightly shorter than the OEM and same diameter as the large ENDS of your OEM.

Then slip each half of your broken spring into each end of the new one.

Terry

 

[Bcom]

ganymede:
Could you please share with us the brand and name of that color. I too am diggin' the burgundy.

I'm guessing it's Rust-Oleum hammered red. Hopefully Ganymede will tell us?

 

[ganymede]

ganymede:
Could you please share with us the brand and name of that color. I too am diggin' the burgundy.

I'm guessing it's Rust-Oleum hammered red. Hopefully Ganymede will tell us?

Thanks guys.
It wasn't stock. I mixed some rust oleum and some krylon .
Can't remember off hand but it's some where in this thread a zillion pages back.
I'll try n find it and post.

 

[mgmlvks]

New arrival today - can't win if you don't play - garage sale of general household cr*p - asked the owner if he had any vises - said yes! $25

4-1/2" jaws. Seized up. Reworking will be a LOT easier and less stressful on this one due to learning curve kicking in from the first one.

--------- UPDATE 9-10-2017 ----------------
All apart except removing pins and nut. Slide dated 11-83. Very little abuse. Odd thing is that sliding handle bar is absolutely frozen in the center part. More PBB and some patience!

 

[ganymede]

ganymede:
Could you please share with us the brand and name of that color. I too am diggin' the burgundy.

I'm guessing it's Rust-Oleum hammered red. Hopefully Ganymede will tell us?

Okay, found it.
Rust Oleum Regal Red mixed with Krylon Leaf Green.

 

[Shiftless]

Okay, found it.
Rust Oleum Regal Red mixed with Krylon Leaf Green.

Mixed like maybe 50-50 or what? Do you recall?
That surprises me to see red and green mix to make that beautiful color.

 

[ganymede]

Mixed like maybe 50-50 or what? Do you recall?
That surprises me to see red and green mix to make that beautiful color.

I don't remember the ratio but it definitely was mostly the Regal Red.
I just got an empty container that when filled with enough paint to cover a vise still had plenty of space extra. Dumped in the red and then I kept adding green until it looked close to the original color. At least I thought it did at the time.
After it dried I could see the original had more of a brownish purple sort of look to it. Oh well
Snap Mom has one with it's original color.

 

[Iconoclast]

Hi all learning a lot reading all these posts about to start restoration on my Wilton 450sj

 

[gman007]

Mixed like maybe 50-50 or what? Do you recall?
That surprises me to see red and green mix to make that beautiful color.

Shift
The color is a shade darker than the Rustoleum hammered bright red (which turned out to be really burgundy and not bright red at all) that I used on my Parker 204. So may be by adding just a bit of green you can get a darker burgundy.

007

 

[ganymede]

^^^^^
Nice Parker.
Really nice swivel handles too.

 

[va.grouseman]

Iconoclast, you are the second person to make his first post debut with a Wilton Swivel Saw.---That's hitting the ground running.

 

[chrisnazzy]

That oval label looks like a Walker Turner label .
I think it was made by Luther Grinder and relabeled.

Thank you for the tips. When I first looked at this I was a little bummed because there were no maker marks and the label was illegible but I quickly got past that because this little 1 3/4" jaw vise is just a cool little conversation piece.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[RagTopTA]

Another suggestion. Locate a new spring slightly shorter than the OEM and same diameter as the large ENDS of your OEM.

Then slip each half of your broken spring into each end of the new one.

Terry

also a great idea thanks Terry!