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Best bench grinder for the money?

flashman

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The tank can be as simple as a 5 gallon bucket, and for vise parts, it's a real good size. 5-6 vertical pieces of rebar on the periphery, connect them together at the top (out of the electrolyte) with copper wire, fill with waster and add some Spa Kem PH Plus (maybe 1/4 cup for 5 gallons of water) and hang a vise part with plain steel wire so it's not touching the rebar.

Apply power, (battery charger, red to the rebar black to the vise part, turn the charger on and let it run. 6-12 hrs later take the vise part out and clean off.

If it's a new solid state battery charger, include a battery to beat the "smart" charger's idiotronincs. if an older transformer charger just run it. Battery is optional.

I researched electrolysis a year ago but decided against doing because of my severely lacking vise restoration availability. This is my third vise I am doing and it is also my largest which makes sense for me to finally create a tank. I bookmarked one thread that has good info from you an others, so I will probably go this weekend and pick up supplies to make it. It will be cheaper than buying another bench grinder as well, unless I can find a craftsman square bench grinder. I will buy that whenever one comes available.
 
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ges74

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you can do better, particularly on the used market!

Craftsman "Block" Grinder
Baldor
Older Dayton
Wissota

Key question: what are you planning to do on it? Sharpen tool bits, Wire Wheel? Buff/polish, or just "shape metal"?

Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but I am just getting into woodturning and I believe in buying good stuff up front so that it doesn't need to be replaced later on down the road. You folks recommend Baldor/Dayton/Wissota brands - I have been looking on ebay, craigslist and government auction websites and can not find any Baldors for less than $300. For example, local Craigslist (Wilmington NC) is showing an 8102W for $350. Based on previous posts, is that ridiculously high? But all prices seem to be that high these days? Or maybe I just need to start relentless garage sale shopping? (BTW, 1500/1800 RPM is on purpose, I guess 1750 is the ideal 8" speed for sharpening gouges and such). Any perspective you could provide would be much appreciated!!!!!

Also BTW, I see volts of 208-230/460 and amps of 1.5-1.4/7. What do those figures mean - that I can't run it on my house wiring? I was told to look for something 3/4HPish, 5 Ampish.

Many thanks!!!!
 

454ragtop

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208-230/460 volts is almost always 3 phase power, which I'm sure you don't have. You want either 115 volt, 115-230 volt, or if you're setup for 230 volt in your shop, make sure it is 230 volt single phase. You could add a VFD or phase converter to a 3 phase grinder, but that's additional expense and complication that you probably don't need.
 

ges74

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Well thanks for that info, that is certainly important! I have to rewire for 220 or whatever in the garage for my lathe but you are right, I'm sure I don't have 3 phase power. My question still stands though - am I supposed to be able to find/hold out for Baldor's in the sub-$100 range? or what would be reasonable?

Thanks again.
 

454ragtop

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Just looked at CL in your area, you seem to be in a desert for bench grinders. There are other good brands of bench grinders, so keep an open mind. One sign of what is usually a good quality grinder is cast wheel guards, avoid the cheap grinders with stamped tin wheel guards. A 1/2 HP or even a 1/3 HP would probably do what you want, don't want to bear down and overheat your cutting tools. But the smaller grinders are often 3450 RPM, so don't know how much help that is. Weird, can't seem to add photos.
 

Outlawmws

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Take a look at the Craftsman block grinder thread. FAR more fordable, LOTS of them out there, and a good solid grinder.

After you find one and get it setup the baldors/wissotas will be everywhere... :see:

:lol:
 
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Voi

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I have to rewire for 220 or whatever in the garage for my lathe but you are right, I'm sure I don't have 3 phase power.

I don't spend much time on wood working forums anymore but it used to be that the turners would recommend 3-phase grinders so they could have variable speed (with a VFD) and slow down grinders for sharpening lathe tools.

I wouldn't rule out an old three phase grinder necessarily.
 

454ragtop

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Another option is to get one of these belt driven grinders, add the motor of your choice, and get any desired speed by swapping pulleys.
 

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Outlawmws

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Actually, for slow speed grinding like that get a pedestal grinder a 1725 RPM or less motor and add a jack shaft and cut the speed to what is good for the tools you are sharpening.

Better still, find a wet grinder and slow it down...
 

ges74

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Take a look at the Craftsman block grinder thread. FAR more fordable, LOTS of them out there, and a good solid grinder.

After you find one adn get ti setup the baldors/wissotas will be everywhere... :see:

:lol:

Yes, exactly, they will come out of the woodwork. Doh! No pun intended.
I looked and looked...craftsman all seem to be high rpm. Appreciate comments re jack shaft, pulleys, and vfd's but unfortunately that all seems waaaaaaaaay too complicated for me. I dont even know what half those terms mean. Will continue looking and report back with what i find and more questions. Thx again!!!!
 

Outlawmws

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Some guys swear by belt and strip sanders, and certainly knife makers live by them. Lots of options there...

My wet grinder with a 9" wheel:

attachment.php



This one has a gear reduction motor, but imagine a shaft where the output shaft of the gear drive is. (that is the normal setup...) Then:

Larger pulley on the grinder shaft, belted to a smaller on the shaft, another larger pulley on the shaft and belted to a small on the motor.

The intermediate shaft is a jack shaft.

2" to 4" gets you to half speed, a second 2" to 4" gets you to 1/4 speed. simple math... so 1725 becomes 431 RPM...
 

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ges74

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imagine a shaft where the output shaft of the gear drive is. Then: Larger pulley on the grinder shaft, belted to a smaller on the shaft, another larger pulley on the shaft and belted to a small on the motor.
The intermediate shaft is a jack shaft.

Got it, thanks!!!!! I will continue my search. I don't think any of the folks around here have belt driven grinders so if I go that route I will be striking out on my own. But I appreciate the food for thought!!!!
 

ges74

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OK gentlemen there is an auction coming up on Sunday where I can bid on some BELT GRINDERS, as 454ragtop suggested.

I wanted to post pictures, but it says that I need a URL for my pictures. How do I do that? Use google drive or something? I would really love to get your advice on whether these are worth bidding on.
 
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ges74

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Ah, found the button.
So I apologize that I don't have pictures of the entire motor units but I figure it's the specs that matter since you can't witness the machine in operation.
The first two photos (Packard + Sears Craftsman) are one unit.
The second Packard is belted up with what looks to be a self-made bench grinder assembly.
The 4th photo (gold bench grinder - per research, looks like a circa 1960 Sears Craftsman?) is belted up with the blue motor in the back, have no idea of its specs.
The 3rd Packard is belted up with a General (couldn't find specs, only the attached labels).
I will post another final Sears Craftsman motor that is belted up with a belt sander.

So I was thinking I could go for:

The Packard/Sears combo
Or mix and match the motors/grinders. If I were to do that I would have to win two auctions and then discard of the motor/grinder/sander I didn't need.

Looking at these labels, is there any way to tell which ones are of better quality/specs? They certainly all seemed solid - no wobble, for example.
 

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ges74

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Here is the photo of the Sears motor that is belted with the belt sander.
 

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454ragtop

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Those arbors you show are better suited to buffing or wire wheel use, note there are no guards or tool rests. If you can get one cheap they work well for that, and then when you find a grinder you don't have to swap grinding wheel for wire wheel or buffer. I think I like the General better, but only because it looks like it offers better access to the wheels.
 

Banjorear

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Are all Baldors still made in the USA? I may just pull the trigger on one. I have an old Dunlop ( sold by Sears) 1/4 hp grinder. The wheels are too close to the body and gets in the way more than it's helps.
 

ges74

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Those arbors you show are better suited to buffing or wire wheel use, note there are no guards or tool rests. If you can get one cheap they work well for that, and then when you find a grinder you don't have to swap grinding wheel for wire wheel or buffer. I think I like the General better, but only because it looks like it offers better access to the wheels.

Thanks for the input. The folks over on the American Association of Woodturners said I should just get a standard Rikon. The motors I posted aren't totally enclosed, apparently. And a guy here in Wilmington is selling a Baldor 8201W (low speed) for $300 but it's 3 phase and it looks like VFDs are $200 so that disqualifies that.

Boo, I was hoping to be a little more creative about the venture.
 

tonytiger42

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A lot of power or corded tools are starting to be made in Asia, especially Black & Decker, and Dewalt and Milwalke also, here in the U.S. we still produce hand tools and air impact tools Ingersol Rand, Snap On, Central Pnematic, but when it comes to powered tools bench drills and grinders unfortunately more and more are being assembled either in Mexico or Asia, vehicles too now, transmission's and engines are being assembled in Mexico. So the quality of the parts is not great, but yes if you can find a grinder that is 20 to 40 years old grab it, I have a B&D drill from the 70's still works great, I'm sure the brushes are quite worn but the drill still works great, and it is a drill that was assembled here, all American parts are in it.
 

tonytiger42

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Also if you have cordless drills too you can search online and get the Lion batteries for $30-60 and open up the battery pack and replace the batteries yourself, even the non Lion batteries, Samsung are one of the best but can cost up to $8 per battery depending upon the type inside the pack. But you are still saving $80-$100 buying a new battery pack depending upon if yours Is 18v or 20v the difference is there are more batteries in the 20v packs I dont know the exact amount the 18v could have 10 to 12 and the 20v could have 16 to 18. But I have a hart 3/8 impact drill and I'm actually surprised at the power it has even used it to zip off nuts on my car I broke them loose with a ratchet but used the drill to zip the nuts off the engine mount studs, and i also bought 2 20v batt packs for it i know i shouldn't be using the 20v packs due to the drill is rated for the 18v packs but I do not use the drill every day.
 

Ilikeike

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Also if you have cordless drills too you can search online and get the Lion batteries for $30-60 and open up the battery pack and replace the batteries yourself, even the non Lion batteries, Samsung are one of the best but can cost up to $8 per battery depending upon the type inside the pack. But you are still saving $80-$100 buying a new battery pack depending upon if yours Is 18v or 20v the difference is there are more batteries in the 20v packs I dont know the exact amount the 18v could have 10 to 12 and the 20v could have 16 to 18. But I have a hart 3/8 impact drill and I'm actually surprised at the power it has even used it to zip off nuts on my car I broke them loose with a ratchet but used the drill to zip the nuts off the engine mount studs, and i also bought 2 20v batt packs for it i know i shouldn't be using the 20v packs due to the drill is rated for the 18v packs but I do not use the drill every day.

What does any of that have to do with this old thread on bench grinders ?:dunno:
 

macgee

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Cocaine is a hell of a drug.

I've been seeing a huge uptick of these type of random posts from newbies lately.
Cocaine is a hell of drug, especially if they been using enough to last the night through his morning post.

In regards to a good bench grinder, "Buy Used" but turn it on before buying it to see if bearings are good and that it even runs and balanced. Avoid Ryobi's unless its $5 but then why bother.

Agree with others, look for a Wissotta's grinders, typically they're the best deal in town and I have no qualms comparing them to my Baldor grinders & buffers. They're well made.

Lastly, and please don't think less of me but I do have an old green Central machinery (Harbor Freight) 8" grinder/buffer from Taiwan that was given to me, it works awesome and stands right next to my Baldor buffer and gets almost daily use, its quiet, strong and smooth. I would be happy to have another one and can be found really cheap but they're not much of a stone grinder machine.

Not mine:
11297018_0.jpg
 
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