Calling Quincy 325 Experts

[kunkernator]

I have the chance to get one of 2 Quincy 325 compressors, for a song. My plan is to rebuild it, then run it for the rest of my life. They are both equally high hour units. I have a couple of questions to decide which one to choose. First off, which style casting is more desirable?

One looks like this:

And one looks like this:

Those are not the actual pictures, just some i found on the internet. Why does one have vertical cooling fins, and one has horizontal? Which casting is preferred? Also, the things on top, that have the small tubing running to it.... Why does one have two of the things, and the other have only one? What are they?

Also, if anyone can provide me with any literature or help on how to rebuild this unit i get, it would be much appreciated. Also, a good source for a quality rebuild kits. I have seen the ones on ebay, but do not know the quality.

Thanks in advance, as always.

 

[pcmeiners]

Tons of info out there................

Search forums here for Quincy rebuild

Search google for Quincy rebuild or overhaul

Quincy qr25 teardown manual.....

http://www.revbase.com/TagTeam/Clie...5+Series+Teardown+&+Rebuild&ftm=0&groupids=0#

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5524699

 

[Strouty]

It looks to me like they are the same orientation, just quantity is different. I would guess the one with more fins would cool better.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Kunkernator, The pump in the top pic is a past ROC (Record Of Change) unit.
The "things on top" are hydraulic unloader valves and the top pic is what Quincy refers to as a 'Control Version L', which is used in a 'Start-Stop' set-up as most shop compressors are set-up as. These unloaders operate by oil pressure from the oil pump, so they unload with no oil pressure and load once oil pressure raises to operating pressure.

The lower pump is one of the later ROC (105, I believe) as they have the heavier horizontal cooling fins. It has two unloaders as it's a control version LS or LVD, which means it can be used in either start-stop function or constant -run, which unloads both low & high cylinders. Constant run also requires a pilot valve and plumbing to allow flow change between valves. The 'Constant Run' would be used on Gas engine versions or in applications that required very high duty cycles.

The lower fin style would be more desireable as it has the latest design changes. Both pumps can come in various unloading configurations.

BTW, Those pumps are very robust and designed for a 100% duty cycle. I'd start with just overhauling the valves, pull the head and check cylinder wear. Here is a link to a great YouTube series showing a 325 rebuild, performed by a compressor tech...

Oh...and if you CAN get them for a song, I'd start singing and grab them both!

 

[t.ruckus.rex]

+1 on the youtube dude

On the oil pressure adjustment screw, its possible to unscrew it all the way and let the oil gush out the side.

This also forces a spring and a tiny, I mean really TINY, ball bearing detent to disappear.

If you then simply replace the adjustment screw you will not have any oil pressure.

The right spring and ball is like $6 from Quincy.

 

[Lelandwelds]

How much slower than the usual rpm can you run a pressure luber? I'm sure there's a chart somewhere but damned if I can find it.

I almost bought a larger 3 phase machine to repower its splash pump with a 5 hp single phase of the same rpm. The available pulleys put the new rpm at about 500 rpm. Thats slow enough I'm worried if the levels ever get a bit low it won't splash so good.

Would a pressure lube avoid the whole low rpm lube problem entirely? Would an early/late Quincy make a difference?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

How much slower than the usual rpm can you run a pressure luber? I'm sure there's a chart somewhere but damned if I can find it.

I almost bought a larger 3 phase machine to repower its splash pump with a 5 hp single phase of the same rpm. The available pulleys put the new rpm at about 500 rpm. Thats slow enough I'm worried if the levels ever get a bit low it won't splash so good.

Would a pressure lube avoid the whole low rpm lube problem entirely? Would an early/late Quincy make a difference?

The QR25- 325 can be run from 400 to 900 RPM. All the QR25 series pumps have a minimum run speed of 400 RPM.

As far as I know, all pumps, no matter what brand have a minimum and maximum RPM parameter that must be observed. What pump are you asking about?

As far as early vs late Quincy model pumps, there were early model splash lube versions built.

 

[pcmeiners]

I am sure the pumps can run slower then 400, you could monitor the oil pressure which roughly needs to be 18-22 psi, if you want to try.
Comes the question,.... why would you want to run low rpm?, your CFM/efficiency decreases dramatically with rpm drop.

 

[kunkernator]

Looks like i will likely be getting the newer ROC model as shown. I will either have it monday or tuesday.


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[The Tool Tyrant]

Looks like i will likely be getting the newer ROC model as shown. I will either have it monday or tuesday.


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Excellent choice!

As far as parts source, I use Pacific Air Compressors. They do sell on e-bay as well as a brick and mortar operation. They have great customer service and answer any questions you may have regarding your pump. All the many parts I've purchased through them have been great with no issues at all.

After you pick-up your pump, check the ROC, then go the the Quincy website and download the parts owners manuals. When ordering parts, you'll need the ROC to assure you are getting the correct parts.

 

[kunkernator]

Excellent choice!

As far as parts source, I use Pacific Air Compressors. They do sell on e-bay as well as a brick and mortar operation. They have great customer service and answer any questions you may have regarding your pump. All the many parts I've purchased through them have been great with no issues at all.

After you pick-up your pump, check the ROC, then go the the Quincy website and download the parts owners manuals. When ordering parts, you'll need the ROC to assure you are getting the correct parts.

Alright. Here it is. Turns over good.
325LVD ROC106.

What does the LVD mean?

I already found the parts manual on Quincy’s site. I will most likely start a new thread on the rebuild......










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[The Tool Tyrant]

As stated previously, the LVD version is a combination 'Start / Stop' and 'Constant Run' unloader set-up. That's what the valve with the round knob on top controls. There is a line missing that comes from the unloader towers to the valve manifold. Look in the manual as I believe the controls are pictured.

The ROC 106 started in 2014 I believe, and is the most current.

 

[Strouty]

I want to setup one of mine with the LVD design. I read about it in my manual.

 

[kunkernator]

As stated previously, the LVD version is a combination 'Start / Stop' and 'Constant Run' unloader set-up. That's what the valve with the round knob on top controls. There is a line missing that comes from the unloader towers to the valve manifold. Look in the manual as I believe the controls are pictured.

The ROC 106 started in 2014 I believe, and is the most current.

The date on the ROC 106 parts manual shows 2006. ROC 107 shows 2014.

I will most likely replace all that valving following this youtube video.

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[The Tool Tyrant]

That's interesting, as my parts manual for the ROC 106 shows January 2014 Edition and I also have a Quincy BM325 VT 80 that has a build date of 2/27/2014 and the pump is a ROC 106 version.

 

[Strouty]

That video is great, I have watched it a couple times, my pumps are 350s but essentially very similar.

 

[Trey T]

Any compressor pump w/ an oil filter on it is ONE SERIOUS MOFO!!

 

[kunkernator]

That's interesting, as my parts manual for the ROC 106 shows January 2014 Edition and I also have a Quincy BM325 VT 80 that has a build date of 2/27/2014 and the pump is a ROC 106 version.

Hmm. I will double check that i have the correct manual when i get home. I am fairly certain it said 2006

I plan on running this unit off a 5HP motor, should that be OK?

On another note, it seems like you know quite a bit regarding Quincy compressors....
what kind of background do you have in that regard?

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[The Tool Tyrant]

Hmm. I will double check that i have the correct manual when i get home. I am fairly certain it said 2006

I plan on running this unit off a 5HP motor, should that be OK?

On another note, it seems like you know quite a bit regarding Quincy compressors....
what kind of background do you have in that regard?

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I went back on the Quincy website and found the manual you have, seems changes were made within the ROC and are noted under "Changes" on page #1. It appears that ROC 107 version took place in July of 2014. I assume that if a specific part was changed within a ROC group, it would state something along the lines of "From serial # _ _ _ _ _ _"

Yes, A 5 HP 1725 RPM motor is perfect. Run a 7" drive sheave and that will put your pump RPM @ 755.

I'm just a Quincy user & "collector" (some would use the word 'hoarder'). In the process, I've rebuilt several pumps and assembled a few complete units for friends...as a hobby.

Do you know the history of your pump? Looks like it was definitely used outdoors. Did the PO give you any info on it's condition? If not, I'd just clean it up, change the oil & filter along with intake filter element, then spin her up before spending a bunch of $$$ on un-needed parts as they're NOT cheap.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Way off topic, but I had to chuckle when I saw that Shadow with the optional chrome tank. I still remember those brochures from the mid 80's.

Given equivalent condition and assuming no major problems, you couldn't go wrong with either compressor.

5hp is the ideal motor for these pumps.

 

[kunkernator]

I went back on the Quincy website and found the manual you have, seems changes were made within the ROC and are noted under "Changes" on page #1. It appears that ROC 107 version took place in July of 2014. I assume that if a specific part was changed within a ROC group, it would state something along the lines of "From serial # _ _ _ _ _ _"

Yes, A 5 HP 1725 RPM motor is perfect. Run a 7" drive sheave and that will put your pump RPM @ 755.

I'm just a Quincy user & "collector" (some would use the word 'hoarder'). In the process, I've rebuilt several pumps and assembled a few complete units for friends...as a hobby.

Do you know the history of your pump? Looks like it was definitely used outdoors. Did the PO give you any info on it's condition? If not, I'd just clean it up, change the oil & filter along with intake filter element, then spin her up before spending a bunch of $$$ on un-needed parts as they're NOT cheap.

Alright, so both of the pumps originally in question came off continuous run Cat D342 engines sitting at my work. It came up that i wanted one, and my boss said to pick one and take it. So i chose the newer of the two, ROC 106. The engine it was paired with had 65xx hours on the mechanical meter, but it could have been rebuilt. Given the time frame, i would same the compressor has between 6500 and 20,000 hours.

To be honest, i want a project, i have priced out the gasket kits and overhaul kits to be between $200-$500. So i am probably going to go ahead and rebuild it regardless.

By 7” drive sheath, do you mean pulley diameter?

Way off topic, but I had to chuckle when I saw that Shadow with the optional chrome tank. I still remember those brochures from the mid 80's.



Given equivalent condition and assuming no major problems, you couldn't go wrong with either compressor.



5hp is the ideal motor for these pumps.

Good eye on the Shadow. It is a 1984 VT700C, in IMPECCABLE cosmetic condition, but didnt run. Got it for $300 and have it running great now after rebuilding the carbs. I will probably ride it around for a while, but dont know if i’ll keep it or not.




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[The Tool Tyrant]

Fun project, you'll enjoy the rebuild. BTW, you will need to purchase or fabricate several specialty tools for the overhaul. Be sure to download the 'QR-25 SERIES TEARDOWN & REBUILD' instruction manual. All the tools needed are shown on page 21.
Regarding the various control variations, on page 27 of the parts manual (2014 edition) the whole page is dedicated to this subject and is very informative.

Yes, drive sheave = motor pulley.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Try this...

http://www.revbase.com/TagTeam/Clie...ries+teardown+&+rebuild&ftm=0&groupids=39606#

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Try the "request an account", I think I filled that out many moons ago as I can access the info.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I could not find a link for that.

Scroll to the bottom of the page on the left side, you'll see "Request an Account"

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Nope, nothing. I even tried another browser. Just a big old white screen with log in info at the top.

I just got there by doing the following...

Go to the Quincy Compressor website, click on 'Support', scroll down and click on 'Instruction Manuals', leave the 'Any Type' box as is, in the 'Keywords' box, type in 'QR-25 Series Teardown & Rebuild' That should take you to the download page.

 

[Trey T]

OP: Why are you rebuilding the pump?

 

[Strouty]

Thanks "Triple T" I am sure I have downloaded it before, it looks very familiar.

Not sure if this will work, but here is a direct link to the file from me.

QR-25 Download

Great, I am going to delete all the fluff posts so it doesn't clutter the thread up. It might be good for you too as well, otherwise it will look like you are crazy and posting for an imaginary friend.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Thanks "Triple T" I am sure I have downloaded it before, it looks very familiar.

Not sure if this will work, but here is a direct link to the file from me.

QR-25 Download

My pleasure Strouty. I tried your link and it works fine...the OP should find it very helpful.

 

[Strouty]

Kunk, when are you going to dig into yours? I want you to be the guinea pig.

 

[kunkernator]

Kunk, when are you going to dig into yours? I want you to be the guinea pig.

Tore it down tonight. Will post some pictures tommorrow.

 

[Strouty]

Nice!

 

[kunkernator]

My bad Strouty. Been really busy this weekend and havent had a chance to take pics or work on it.... will in the days coming


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[Strouty]

No problem at all. Looking forward to them.

 

[kunkernator]

Follow the new thread here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6948652