The VISES of Garage Journal

[ppknut]

Here's my recent restoration.

More at link: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62717&page=11

I'd love to find an original swivel handle and nut!

Before and After:

 

[454ragtop]

Here's my recent restoration.

More at link: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62717&page=11

I'd love to find an original swivel handle and nut!

Before and After:

No pics, please upload directly to the site so they don't gat lost at a later date.

 

[ppknut]

Fixed.

 

[MissileBear]

speaking of BLO do any of you have a good source for it maybe in 5 gallon cans or by the case cause i tend to use this stuff on a lot of my steel now?

@Drives -

I started using the artist grade Linseed Oil because it doesn't have all of the heavy metal hardeners and other commercial stuff that gets added to it. It does take a little longer to dry (not much longer....and the BORG BLO already takes a while) but it does certainly smell better than the cheap stuff.

My local artist shop sells Linseed Oil by the gallon - I can't speak to the price.

If you are just looking for cost effectiveness it's probably not going to be what you are looking for. For me personally, I rest a little easier knowing I'm not exposing myself to cobalt, manganese salts, and other emulsifiers/stabilizers/driers found in the common stuff. Take a look at the MSDS sheets sometime.

 

[BMR24]

Jake: i think i might have heard that Outlaw was looking to double his money on his $5 bullet so you might give him a PM.

nice find and WELL DONE on the price.

there are other vises i've see on those power arms in case Outlaw isn't quite ready to sell you his.

Vises: a semi truck full of bottled water sounds like a VERY nice gesture and probably went to some deserving folks. hoping for the best for the USA right now cause between hurricanes, fires and floods we are having a horrible year.

ALL: I also picked up this Sawyer 26 and other than the bent wrench and a loose sleeve it might clean up pretty well and it's a BEAST.

anybody have a good method to straighten a swivel's wrench? i was thinking heat and maybe squeeze it in between some smooth heat treated jaws on my Reed 4c. or since the bend sort of looks ok should i just leave it alone? thoughts?

Fix up that post vise and put the wrench in there, that's what it was made for

 

[akasrick]

H221/2 swivel, this one 25lbs. 4" opening also.


akasrick

As advertised, now opens 4 & 1/2"s, without falling out of the nut.

 

[SRU1436]

Picked up this beast during my lunch hour. This is my first Reed, I heard these things were stout, but damn!!!!

 

[gman007]

Picked up this beast during my lunch hour. This is my first Reed, I heard these things were stout, but damn!!!!

Very nice find and it is in great shape too, well done

 

[sandman54]

you are going to like this vise

 

[Bcom]

Oh Fretters don’t Fret! Sandman is just having a little fun! Down here in Texas we like a little verbal sparing now and again! It keep you on your toes! Puts hair on your chest!

Hey on a lighter note I’ve decided to give away Wilton vises instead of candy for Halloween this year!


Yeeeeeee. Haaaawwww!!


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Well im putting a candy vending machine on my porch this year for halloween.

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

Picked up this beast during my lunch hour. This is my first Reed, I heard these things were stout, but damn!!!!

Awesome

 

[zoomieport]

Hello All!

I am now helping edit and add to Franco's, Google Vise document,

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...BQRBGb9s/edit?ts=59df9106&pli=1#gid=666157805

if you have anything you'd like to see added, please let me know and I will get to it!
Thanks!

Mike

 

[Fretters]

@Drives -

I started using the artist grade Linseed Oil because it doesn't have all of the heavy metal hardeners and other commercial stuff that gets added to it. It does take a little longer to dry (not much longer....and the BORG BLO already takes a while) but it does certainly smell better than the cheap stuff.

My local artist shop sells Linseed Oil by the gallon - I can't speak to the price.

If you are just looking for cost effectiveness it's probably not going to be what you are looking for. For me personally, I rest a little easier knowing I'm not exposing myself to cobalt, manganese salts, and other emulsifiers/stabilizers/driers found in the common stuff. Take a look at the MSDS sheets sometime.

Equine suppliers will sell raw linseed oil in bulk too. I use raw too, (thinned with pure turpentine), as I prefer something without all the **** found in boiled.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters and MB: thanks for the 411's on BLO and i'll check into those options. so what's the abbreviation for LINSEED OIL? LO??

Fretters: what is the ratio of turpentine you put in how much linseed oil?

5Farrs: yep we wouldn't tell stories when it comes to vise quality and Reed is right up there on top. your older 106 has an interesting part where there newer one's split nut is so wondering if maybe you Californian's were getting the prototype vises to try out or imported them cause the Athol TJ just posted has different generation parts too.

does your 106 have a sleeve and a set screw holding the main screw onto the dynamic or does that odd looking piece we see in the front picture with almost gear like teeth hold the screw onto the dynamic?

i'm guessing 120 pounds of GOODNESS? NICE FIND and get an inversion table if you are going to keep hauling it and others heavier around in one piece so you don't have back issues.

cheers

 

[Fretters]

Raw Linseed Oil, so: RLO.

I just thin it until it's the consistency I'm after.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: so sort like making pancake batter? or should i borrow some of my kid's chemistry books and start googling? do you still brush it on like you do the paint or just wipe it on with a rag?

starting to rain in England yet or did it ever quit?

funny i talk to Dell customer service and most are in India and they talk about MONSOONS. we just call it RAIN don't we? mine has started but actually not EVERY DAY YET so crossing fingers cause rain isn't great for all my steel even if it is mostly inside.

 

[zoomieport]

Hello,

Does anyone have swivel bolts for a Desmond Stephens Simplex 41P?
Let me know...
Take care!

ZOOM

 

[SRU1436]

Drivesitfar: This is my first Reed vise, and I'm still new to vises in general. However, after doing some research it appears the set screw is missing, I'm assuming, and it appears maybe that split nut is creeping its way out. Ill let you guys know when I attempt to take it apart.

 

[SRU1436]

I cleaned out the hole and there is no set screw in there.

 

[drivesitfar]

5Farrs: it sounds like you are handy so i'm sure you'll figure it out cause for the most parts these old vises are fairly simple engineered and other than rust and crud usually come apart somewhat easily.

here's the vise repair 101 thread link where you can post up your pictures, progress and questions cause I can't recall that exact REED combination and not sure i've ever seen a split nut that looks like it has gear teeth. are you sure it's a split nut?

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252830

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: so sort like making pancake batter? or should i borrow some of my kid's chemistry books and start googling? do you still brush it on like you do the paint or just wipe it on with a rag?

starting to rain in England yet or did it ever quit?

funny i talk to Dell customer service and most are in India and they talk about MONSOONS. we just call it RAIN don't we? mine has started but actually not EVERY DAY YET so crossing fingers cause rain isn't great for all my steel even if it is mostly inside.

Personally, I tend to apply with a brush and then wipe over with a rag.

It's England; Every day is potentially a rainy day. Even in the middle of summer, a wise person takes a brolly or a coat with them.

 

[VISEs]

Well im putting a candy vending machine on my porch this year for halloween.

You are going to charge kids for Halloween candy?!? Dude!






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[VISEs]

Anyone have one of these?!?! I just got it.

It’s not a Wilton!!

Get r done!


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[rayh]

Has any of you that uses BLO ever added Japan Dryer to help it dry quicker? I use it in Teak Oil on gunstocks to help dry the finish. Just wondering, I may be doing a 3 1/2'' Samson this fall in BLO.

 

[Bcom]

You are going to charge kids for Halloween candy?!? Dude!






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Yep the candy will be for sale. Gotta make my money back on the candy and the vending machine useage. I'm also gonna stock the machine with little boxes of laundry detergent, toothpaste, tooth brushes, and small raisin boxes.

 

[zoomieport]

Yep the candy will be for sale. Gotta make my money back on the candy and the vending machine useage. I'm also gonna stock the machine with little boxes of laundry detergent, toothpaste, tooth brushes, and small raisin boxes.

 

[zoomieport]

For the record...
6" offset jaws, 122#, Made in Australia, Dawn 6OS.

 

[Bcom]

For the record...
6" offset jaws, 122#, Made in Australia, Dawn 6OS.

Awesome offset zoom! I'm guessing that this is identical to the Wilton version?

 

[Bcom]

For the record...
6" offset jaws, 122#, Made in Australia, Dawn 6OS.

I always thought the offsets were weird because of the dynamic jaw support. Should the dynamic jaw support have been made differently since the slide is sitting at an angle now? I would think the dynamic jaw support really isn't supporting anything since the slide is now at an angle? Anyone else want to comment on this?

 

[MissileBear]

@Drives - a quick note about Turpentine...

In the US, you will often see "Pure Gum Spirits" Turpentine. It smells like embalming fluid due to the process involved in making it, rather than the somewhat pleasant Pinesol smell of genuine turpentine.

Pure Gum Spirits turpentine is made by grinding large amounts of waste pine wood (bark, roots, pith, needles, sawdust, etc) boiling the mixture, and distilling out a turpentine like substance. I believe there are other process (chemical & mechanical) involved used to clarify the resultant. Real turpentine was historically made by slicing the bark of a live tree and collecting the sap (like rubber & maple syrup) and distilling that.

The difference is night and day; the woman of the house doesn't mind when I use the real stuff. The PGS was outright banned indoors, in any capacity :X

 

[zoomieport]

Awesome offset zoom! I'm guessing that this is identical to the Wilton version?

Dawn made them for Wilton, correct!

ZOOM

 

[drivesitfar]

MB: thanks for the 411 on Turpentine cause i think making my own version of RLO is where i'm headed. would maybe the RLO and real turpentine be able to be cooked in a family oven or are there fumes we shouldn't mix with our food and inside our homes?

Fretters: sounds like a good method. in the shed do you have heat and does it take a couple months to cure or maybe you are adding a Japan Dryer that Ray mentioned?

Ray: i've heard the Japan dryer might work well with BLO and i think Fretters and a few other members use it with REAL LINSEED OIL so thanks for the post.

ALL: would another additive maybe be some melted BEESWAX? how about heat cause some put them in smokers in ovens so guessing maybe a low heat maybe 250 and for how long?

thanks everybody cause i really don't want to paint any of my vises and I don't want them rusting much if i can help it either.

 

[BMR24]

Drives I've herd of blacksmiths historically making a paste that they would rub on their workpieces and tools to protect them. I think it was Lynseed oil, turpentine, and beeswax all mixed together in a pot over the forge. When it cooled it was a waxy paste consistency. I've found several recepies on the internet but have never gotten around to making any

 

[Fretters]

Never put any drier in mine, DIF. Just put it on, wipe off excess and then leave it to air dry. There's nothing in either RLO or pure turpentine which is detrimental. Beeswax can be added without problem; That goes into my graphite paste. Drying time wise, ratios etc. will all affect that. A few days tops should see it fine.

Btw, I could be wrong, but isn't the name for the foul smelling variant mentioned above Wood Turpentine? Gum & pure turpentine should be the same thing.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

I will post what I have in a day or two. I may be able to grab some images off my old PB account (that I won't use anymore because of their extortion 3rd party policy).
The 74 is waiting for a couple of extractions and a final dressing before paint. Half of the 75 is in the electro bath.



Thanks dutch,that is potential hernia material, especially lifting from a chair.

Do you have a link to the catalogue you speak of? Is it in the realm of the Record 114??
I will break it down into manageable pieces. A decent piece of plywood in the boot will be useful too.

Slow runner

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9iwuyy1vzrwvszs/AAApmsWFvTmKRWUj53V7eiwla?dl=0

All scanned and upload by one of our other UK members here, CwazyWabbit.

You can also find the whole 1957 Woden catalogue that includes your vice on archive.org https://archive.org/details/WodenToolsCatalogueNo.571957

 

[drivesitfar]

FRETTERS: thanks for the 411!!

CW & FRETTERS & DUTCH: I'm thinking of changing out the guts off my Record 6 inch quick release and putting them into a like new Record 6 inch regular vice. have any of you done this or do you think it will work?

cheers

 

[MissileBear]

MB: thanks for the 411 on Turpentine cause i think making my own version of RLO is where i'm headed. would maybe the RLO and real turpentine be able to be cooked in a family oven or are there fumes we shouldn't mix with our food and inside our homes?.

Linseed oil is made from Flaxseed, so in its pure state it's actually edible....not that you would want to, as it putrefies if not refrigerated. Turpentine is unpleasant stuff and should not be inhaled, and gives some people really bad skin reactions.

Pure turpentine is a solvent and is flammable/explosive if concentrated enough. I mix Turpentine and Linseed Oil into my Japaning mix and that gets baked, and it is very stinky. I bought a toaster oven for that purpose exclusively and I cook it outside.

Btw, I could be wrong, but isn't the name for the foul smelling variant mentioned above Wood Turpentine? Gum & pure turpentine should be the same thing.

I think that may be true across the pond - I've heard the name "gumspirits" applied to the real stuff, but "Pure Gum Spirits" is definitely not the real deal here, and is the same as "wood turpentine".

I looked at the MSDS sheet for Kleenstrip's Pure Gum Spirits....says it's only 30% Turpentine, and 70% a lot of other stuff I've never heard of

http://www.kleanstrip.com/uploads/documents/GGT69_SDS-LL1901.pdf

 

[drivesitfar]

Frank: it's for a Versa Vise. pretty cool vise to own if you find the rest of it so you might want to go back and dig at that sale.

MB: thanks for keeping us informed an for the good information.

 

[Fedelis]

Seems all the vise junkies are hanging out in this thread. I’m currently restoring a Columbian 604 Vise. I started a blog thread here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6772605&posted=1#post6772605

Can anyone help me with some markings on the vice? Attached pictures and links to higher res.

Dynamic Jaw: has a “Z” stamped on the underside. Any idea what it represents?
http://i.imgur.com/7rgZbMg.jpg

Base of swivel: underside has 604-3, assuming that’s the model. Could -3 be a variant or model version?

There is also a circle E underneath followed by what appears to be a lower case “d” or “1”

15/16 size nut is marked with “F - C”

http://i.imgur.com/zFNumPB.jpg

Static Jaw Main Screw Nut: The peice that nests inside the static Jaw has a “41” on it. Could this be year of manufacture?

http://i.imgur.com/Oj8icqF.jpg

Reverse side has an “M” in a box, above the number 3. Could M be for malleable iron? No idea about the 3, but it matches 3 under the base?

 

[dutchgray]

drives
Cant help with that as I have never seen an example of that type of QR, the old lever type definitely wouldn't swap. You may just have to take both apart and have a go.