Ratchet torque

[WhiffySpark]

I’ve never used an impact on a o2 sensor. Those threads aren’t much. Just take it to a shop

 

[Ktmrider83]

I cut off the plug and put the closed side of a 7/8" wrench over it. Def use heat

 

[subarub4]

I ordered the 3/4" breaker bar so we will see how it goes tomorrow

 

[General Geoff]

I ordered the 3/4" breaker bar so we will see how it goes tomorrow

Make sure you also have the required socket size in 3/4" drive. Using a reducer will just result in the reducer shearing off.

 

[Schurkey]

If your ratchet breaks, it's because 1. You were using the wrong drive size, or 2. It wasn't strong enough. If the socket or extension didn't also break, you're probably looking at #2. Good excuse to buy a better ratchet.

Mapp wont get hot enough?

They make a yellow hand held propane torch, mapp gas.

3700 degrees seems plenty hot to me, I've used both the blue and yellow cans with great luck on cars.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/be...nVmse2lFa7i4BTLSq6I8MMimZKP48oxBoC8AYQAvD_BwE

No such thing as MAPP gas any more. Hasn't existed as a commercial product for almost a decade.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

Now they sell "MAP Pro" which you're supposed to think is the same as MAPP. It isn't. It's outright deceptive marketing.

Propane (without bottled O2) is good for heat-shrink tubing. Isn't worth a **** for heating seized fasteners. Might as well use a Bic lighter.

 

[General Geoff]

Propane (without bottled O2) is good for heat-shrink tubing. Isn't worth a **** for heating seized fasteners. Might as well use a Bic lighter.

I've broken loose plenty of otherwise completely seized threads with "just" a propane torch. I find it particularly effective on seized tie rods.

 

[HanShotFirst]

The MAPP substitutes have worked well for me regardless. Good for getting things hot, also use for silver soldering, etc. And yeah I know, silver solder ain't silver solder anymore, 50/50 solder ain't 50/50 anymore, etc... Someone coming into this new would be all confused.

And yeah, propane is basically worthless on it's own.

 

[Yarpo]

No such thing as MAPP gas any more. Hasn't existed as a commercial product for almost a decade.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

Now they sell "MAP Pro" which you're supposed to think is the same as MAPP. It isn't. It's outright deceptive marketing.

Propane (without bottled O2) is good for heat-shrink tubing. Isn't worth a **** for heating seized fasteners. Might as well use a Bic lighter.

I mean it gets things hot, and I've removed tons of stuck fasteners with it.

Just the last week my sisters brake caliper bolts where stuck, obviously not large bolts but getting my impact in there was tough. I had to use my Compact Milwaukee 1/2" which has like 220 FT pounds. Couldn't get them out. Busted out the blue torch, because my yellow can was empty. About a minute of heat in the right spot, and no changes on the impact, and I zipped them right out.

Same thing happened on my daily. Head gaskets on a grand am, I had to get the rear exhaust manifold out, and I didn't feel like playing with all the little fasteners on the manifold itself, so I tackled the three that connect the cat to the rest of exhaust and I'd pull the head with the manifold still on, whatever. I had like three extensions on my impact and was coming in from underneath. No luck. Little yellow heat from the torch, and zipped them all off.

I've never NOT had luck with that ****. You can get the fasteners orange with the yellow cans pretty damn easily.

 

[nbruno]

I'm not sure what is going on with this thread but has anyone mentioned the fact that the 02 sensor and the bung are obviously separate pieces save for the rust bonding them? That being said, heat the bung via the surrounding pipe avoiding as much as possible heating the o2 sensor. Obviously there will be a certain amount of inductive heating between the 2. But, the idea is to "swell" the bung while not "swelling" the o2 sensor. Just a small amount heating should allow the o2 sensor to break loose with a long 1/2" ratchet. I just did one on a 97 jeep exhaust a month ago and not much rusts like a jeep.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[subarub4]

I'm not sure where people think the o2 sensor is installed... it's not installed I'm trying to remove the bolt that is in the o2 sensor threaded part of the header

 

[cherrybomb]

If you do any serous wrenching,and are worried about breaking a ratchet,and fine vs.coarse,get a breaking bar.Its that simple.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I'm not sure where people think the o2 sensor is installed... it's not installed I'm trying to remove the bolt that is in the o2 sensor threaded part of the header

We need pictures.

 

[WhiffySpark]

If you do any serous wrenching,and are worried about breaking a ratchet,and fine vs.coarse,get a breaking bar.Its that simple.

No it’s not that simple. High quality ratchet > breaker bar. I own one breaker bar and it was free. I hate breaker bars. I’ve broken various ones of other peoples. Waste of time for me

 

[American Locomotive]

I've honestly have broken more breaker bars than ratchets. Almost every time I snap a breaker bar, I end up using a ratchet with a pipe on the handle to take the bolt off.

 

[subarub4]

The one I got is rated for 996 ft.lbs 3/4" so we will see

 

[subarub4]

We need pictures.

It's simple any turbo subaru has the oxygen sensor in the same spot in the manifold

 

[WhiffySpark]

Are you trying to add a wideband?

 

[subarub4]

Are you trying to add a wideband?

Let me try to better explain what the previous owner did... he stuck the oxygen sensor where the wideband sensor should go and put a bolt where the oxygen sensor goes.. now I have a wideband and using the wideband spot now I'm stuck trying to get the bolt out to install the oxygen sensor so I can log my A/F learning logs

 

[cherrybomb]

Well I must be doing it wrong, I've never put a pipe on a ratchet.I've never broke a ratchet.I'm here to read about others techniques.

 

[Schurkey]

If you do any serous wrenching,and are worried about breaking a ratchet,and fine vs.coarse,get a breaking bar.Its that simple.

I sold or gave away all my breaker bars, and bought quality ratchets.

I wouldn't walk across the street to get a free breaker bar.

But that's me. Others will disagree.

 

[subarub4]

Well looks like the bolt wins I'm most likely going to switch to stainless steel headers btw before anyone asks no the bolt did not look like that before.. the issue is when pulling it slips off from the top then it just comes off.. oh well at least the stainless steel will be like 10lbs lighter.

Now I'm stuck with a 3/4" breaker bar

 

[Schurkey]

Torch that bolt head until it's cherry-red.

Let it cool.

Rip it out with an impact gun. With luck, you won't even need the impact.

 

[Ktmrider83]

Haha, you prolly shouldn't touch a tool again. Just bustin your balls, what you need to do is heat up the pipe itself around the bolt, not the bolt. You can try a vise grip after that or they sell a socket that you can hammer on and it's acts like a claw when you loosen it. Good luck

 

[Schurkey]

Torch that bolt head until it's cherry-red.

Let it cool.

Rip it out with an impact gun. With luck, you won't even need the impact.

what you need to do is heat up the pipe itself around the bolt, not the bolt.

Whatever works. I've done it both ways, and I've quit heating the casting.

"I" heat the seized fastener, or the seized plug, NOT the casting it's in.

Heating the fastener or the plug makes it expand. Heating it ENOUGH also makes it "soft and pliable", like taffy.

Because it's trapped in the cool casting, it cannot expand outward. It has to squeeze microscopically longer instead. It's permanently deformed. As it cools, though, it contracts in all directions. Therefore it GAINS clearance against the casting, while ending up just a bit longer than when it was new. With clearance to the casting, it threads right out.

 

[subarub4]

Haha, you prolly shouldn't touch a tool again. Just bustin your balls, what you need to do is heat up the pipe itself around the bolt, not the bolt. You can try a vise grip after that or they sell a socket that you can hammer on and it's acts like a claw when you loosen it. Good luck

you are talking about a bolt extractor and yes I used that as well...

 

[subarub4]

Whatever works. I've done it both ways, and I've quit heating the casting.

"I" heat the seized fastener, or the seized plug, NOT the casting it's in.

Heating the fastener or the plug makes it expand. Heating it ENOUGH also makes it "soft and pliable", like taffy.

Because it's trapped in the cool casting, it cannot expand outward. It has to squeeze microscopically longer instead. It's permanently deformed. As it cools, though, it contracts in all directions. Therefore it GAINS clearance against the casting, while ending up just a bit longer than when it was new. With clearance to the casting, it threads right out.

heating cast iron what's that going to take about an hours worth of torch holding just for it to start glowing?

 

[cherrybomb]

Has anybody used a impact chisel on that bolt head?Just throwing it out there!

 

[American Locomotive]

heating cast iron what's that going to take about an hours worth of torch holding just for it to start glowing?

Heat the bolt as hot as you can with a good propane torch - even if it takes 5 minutes. Then douse the bolt with your favorite penetrating oil. There's going to be a lot of smoke. I (and others) have figured that the rapid quenching with penetrating oil may actually help pull the oil under the bolt and into the threads. Or maybe it's just the oil rapidly cooling the bolt that helps. I don't know.

Either way, I've had a lot of success using that method to get stuck bolts out, when just heat alone didn't seem to be doing the trick.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I wonder if the bolt wasn’t the right size and it’s jammed in. Perhaps welded? Idk that shouldn’t be a huge deal to get out.

And heating cast with propane is light using a bic lighter.

 

[subarub4]

Has anybody used a impact chisel on that bolt head?Just throwing it out there!

That was going to be the last step since it's destructive.

Heat the bolt as hot as you can with a good propane torch - even if it takes 5 minutes. Then douse the bolt with your favorite penetrating oil. There's going to be a lot of smoke. I (and others) have figured that the rapid quenching with penetrating oil may actually help pull the oil under the bolt and into the threads. Or maybe it's just the oil rapidly cooling the bolt that helps. I don't know.

Either way, I've had a lot of success using that method to get stuck bolts out, when just heat alone didn't seem to be doing the trick.

I did do that in the very beginning.. however I don't have any more koril and I have been using PB blaster I bet I would have better luck if I could get to the backside of the bolt

 

[subarub4]

I wonder if the bolt wasn’t the right size and it’s jammed in. Perhaps welded? Idk that shouldn’t be a huge deal to get out.

And heating cast with propane is light using a bic lighter.

I did not think about the jammed in but I was thinking welded.. but that I can see no welding marks.. and Map gas is only what 130F hotter? that does not seem much of anything..

 

[WhiffySpark]

I did not think about the jammed in but I was thinking welded.. but that I can see no welding marks.. and Map gas is only what 130F hotter? that does not seem much of anything..

Could have been welded inside? No idea lol

And we’ve told you those handheld torches are worthless. You need a real oxy setup

 

[subarub4]

Could have been welded inside? No idea lol

And we’ve told you those handheld torches are worthless. You need a real oxy setup

Subaru want's $300 for a new section of that exhaust.. that's crazy.. it's hardly like 8" wide lol I'm not sure if a exhaust shop can get it out.

 

[Ktmrider83]

At this point take it of the car and drop it off at a machine shop. Worst comes to worst they cut it out and weld a new bung in.

 

[subarub4]

cant I just take the car to them it's about 35-40 lbs

 

[JohnDeere1]

You need a long handle 1/2 ratchet I bet I could get it off with either my matco or snap on xl ratchets Thu leverage is what will do it looks like a flex head is best for the situation as well it doesn't look that rusted and doubt it will snap because it's larger just put some muscle in it and buy a big ratchet or breaker bar and throw another piece of pipe on there I you need even more leverage. Remember leverage moves mountains.

 

[subarub4]

the breaker bar I was using was 24' long

 

[General Geoff]

the breaker bar I was using was 24' long

pretty sure you would rotate the whole car with a bar that long!

 

[subarub4]

lol doh 24"

 

[Shark Pilot]

If you can put the o2 sensor back where it was and run the engine/drive the car to heat up the exhaust then hit it with penetrating oil before and after running it may help. Also try alternating penetrating oil and brake cleaner which I find helps. Was dealing with a similar situation with a bunch of 13mm nuts using 3/8" drive socket. All were very difficult to remove and one started to round. Bought a bolt extractor which didn't fit that great so I pounded on a 1/2" drive socket (Carlyle) and it came off. So the beefier drive size socket definitely helped.

At this point, you should probably try drilling the bolt down the center. I would find the center and hit it with a centering punch and start by drilling with a 1/8" or smaller bit down the middle and then increasing the bit size and repeat until it can be unsrcewed. What this does is weaken the bolt internally which will eventually loosen its grip on the threads. Obviously just be careful not to hit the threaded part of the manifold. It will come out. Worst case if the bolt head is too rounded you can use and EZ out in the hole you drilled. Good luck and let us know how you make out.