Jump packs: JNC660 vs. new JNC770R

[FigureItOut]

I needed a new jump pack to replace a five year old Schumacher Pro Series that proved itself unreliable. I don't have confidence in the lithium ion packs yet so I debated between another 660 and the new "premium" 770R. It's the same internal battery and about a $30-$40 price difference. Key stats are the same except the premium has 68" cables, versus the 46" on the 660.

I generally don't want my jump boxes to do anything but jump cars, so I don't look for the work lights, USB outlets, switches, dials, knobs and extra features, but I went with the premium and I'm glad I did. I thought I'd show you guys the differences and maybe someone who's trying to decide can benefit.

First, the 770R has two USB outlets, a 1.1A and 2.1A. I'll personally never use it. It also has an LED light on the front, it's certainly enough to light up battery terminals, and it should make it easier at night. The LED has a flashing mode for emergencies, and is bright enough to be visible to passers-by, but wouldn't blind a driver.

The premium also has a digital volt meter as opposed to analog on the 660. That's probably more likely to fail, but it's not mission critical. The biggest difference to me is the on/off switch controlling power to the cables. It's not needed really, if you're careful, but is safer if you're carrying the jump pack in your vehicle, and will prevent sparking if you connect the cables before you turn it on. On the 660, the cables are always hot, and the way they're stored, a short circuit is possible.

The height and width are almost identical, one is behind the other in each of these pics. I do kind of like the rubber boot on the bottom of the 770R.

The 770R is quite a bit bigger in depth as seen here. What I like a lot is the clamp storage seen here. It's more secure, better looking and more compact than the clamp storage on the 660.

Here's what I really don't like. The electrical connection between each side of the clamp on the 660 is a wide braided strap. On the 770, the electrical connection is just the hinge.

The 770 is heavier:

The 770 comes with a couple of useful accessories that the 660 does not come with:

Finally, a minor note that may become a huge annoyance to me, but others may not have the same issue. I have a locking extension cord in my vehicle that keeps my jump box charging full time. The female end locks securely onto every male plug I've tried it on, except the charging plug on the 770R, I'm not sure why, but it just won't lock on.

 

[LeeG]

Thank you for posting that. I was just shopping for a jump pack and was wondering between the two. I ended up going with the 770 based on this post.

Lee

 

[bob_the_builder]

How do you find the curved clamps on the 770? To me they seems a little odd and would get in the way but that's maybe just because I am use to the 660.

By the way, does anyone know a good place to buy a 660 or 770 in Canada. The pricing on Amazon.ca is out to lunch the last few times I looked. I have been trying to find a 770b (blue one)

Bob

 

[IndyGarage]

I bought a 770 a few weeks ago - works great. I started my F450 powerstroke with it easy.

Curved clamps work fine, but I'm not sure what the advantage is over the straight ones. The springs are really tight and they do store on the unit real nicely.

 

[FigureItOut]

How do you find the curved clamps on the 770? To me they seems a little odd and would get in the way but that's maybe just because I am use to the 660.

Quite the opposite. I went to put my 660 on a Tahoe the other day with the battery in the back corner of the engine bay. It has a brace directly over it and I couldn't get my 660 clamps to stay on the terminals well. I grabbed the 770 and the curve allowed the jaws to lay flat, under the obstruction.

I'm just still really annoyed by the cost cutting on the clamp, referring to the lack of a braided strap bridging the two sides of the jaws. They obviously thought it was a good feature, since it's on the 660.

 

[shockwave]

I was looking at the jnc aswell deciding on the 660 or 770 and with the newer dsr series that are close but more expensive

 

[94EG8]

Can you plug the JNC770R into a wall outlet like the JNC660? Or does it have to be charged through the cigarette lighter plug or some other proprietary connection?

By the way, does anyone know a good place to buy a 660 or 770 in Canada. The pricing on Amazon.ca is out to lunch the last few times I looked. I have been trying to find a 770b (blue one)

Find a retailer that deals with G2S Toolshop or NorTool, it's still not going to be a whole lot cheaper than Amazon though.

 

[CJM8515]

Quite the opposite. I went to put my 660 on a Tahoe the other day with the battery in the back corner of the engine bay. It has a brace directly over it and I couldn't get my 660 clamps to stay on the terminals well. I grabbed the 770 and the curve allowed the jaws to lay flat, under the obstruction.

I'm just still really annoyed by the cost cutting on the clamp, referring to the lack of a braided strap bridging the two sides of the jaws. They obviously thought it was a good feature, since it's on the 660.

I used JNC660 exclusively for years a tow operator. I love them. There are only 2 downfalls: 1. if you keep wrapping the cable to tightly like an idiot (from constant use) the last wrap where it goes around the box tends to fray and snap inside and 2. you can wind up pulling the wires out of the clamp or box at the crimp connection. Again, that sorta stuff only happens when you share the units with morons or use them constantly 50x a day.

The clamps look seriously cheesy on the 770R. I will tell you the secret to jumping a GM side terminal-you put the clamps on the insulator an then the other end of the clamp goes on the bolt. If you cant get to one of the terminals put the ground on a strut bolt, or on the engine near the alternator as its unpainted. Never had an issue jumping a GM vehicle that way. If you try to put the clamps on the terminal bolts like an alligator ie < o it wont work about 50% of the time due to a poor connection.

 

[hvclassics]

I'm new to the board, but this thread (yes, about a year old : ) is what brought me here.
Been looking into the JNC booster packs, and just wanted to say thanks for the awsome comparison between the 660 and 770.
leaning towards the 770, but still undecided due to the design of the clamp connection (ie. braided on the 660 and hinge connection on 770)


Kevin

 

[FigureItOut]

I'm new to the board, but this thread (yes, about a year old : ) is what brought me here.
Been looking into the JNC booster packs, and just wanted to say thanks for the awsome comparison between the 660 and 770.
leaning towards the 770, but still undecided due to the design of the clamp connection (ie. braided on the 660 and hinge connection on 770)


Kevin

Good that you found it a year later actually, now that I've used the new 770R a good bit. The connection between the jaws is bothersome, but I haven't found it to affect performance in any noticeable way. I do take care when I clamp the jaws on and try to put the one side of the jaw that's connected to the cable where it seems like it might make better contact, but I don't know if it makes any difference. All the other benefits to the 770R outweigh the one possible drawback. I even find myself using the USB outlets frequently, even though I was sure I wouldn't. Between 660 and 770R, get the 770, if for no other reason than the longer cables. It's a huge advantage and my 660 has become annoying now that I'm used to the longer cables on the 770.

 

[kythri]

Can you plug the JNC770R into a wall outlet like the JNC660? Or does it have to be charged through the cigarette lighter plug or some other proprietary connection?

It does, on the back of the unit:

It comes with an "extension cord" (shown, both in this pic, and in FigureItOut's post above) that may or may not be required to plug in - can't tell if the ported area surrounding the plug would accomodate a normal extension cord or not. (Pulled that picture from an eBay listing, can't find similar shots on the Clore website.)

 

[FigureItOut]

can't tell if the ported area surrounding the plug would accomodate a normal extension cord or not. (Pulled that picture from an eBay listing, can't find similar shots on the Clore website.)

It will fit a normal extension cord. I have a locking plug on mine that's quite a bit bigger than a normal extension cord plug, and it fits fine.

 

[AA/FC]

Here's what I really don't like. The electrical connection between each side of the clamp on the 660 is a wide braided strap. On the 770, the electrical connection is just the hinge.

Thanks for posting these pictures. To me, this right here is the biggest problem with jump starting vehicles with cheap jump packs or cheap jumper cables. This is one of the reasons why the JNC 660 has been the "industry standard" with professional mechanics, tow operators, auction lots, car dealers, etc. Getting a good connection that can transmit enough amperage to turn the engine over is the KEY to successful jump starts. The solution is to electrify BOTH sides of the clamp, like the clamps on the 660. Relying only on friction through the hinge pin is NOT good enough. Sure, there may be enough electrical conductivity through friction to light a light bulb, but not nearly enough conductivity to transmit hundreds of amps to start an engine. Electrifying both sides of the clamp, with sufficient conductivity, is the secret to quick, easy, and successful jump starts, every time.

Remember the days when you would connect a set of cables between two vehicle and then have to wait while it charges? That was because you didn't have a good enough connection to transfer enough amperage to spin the stater under load..... only a good enough connection to slowly put a charge into the dead battery. Jumper cables/jump packs that have clamps with jaws that are electrified on both sides almost completely eliminate this problem. I will never buy a jump pack that DOESN'T have the double electrified clamps. JNC 660 is still the King in that size category.


For example, these are my 4/0 jumper cable clamps (4 ought, not 4 gauge) that I use on my 4000 amp starting unit. They have 1 ought cable running to both sides of the clamp.

.

 

[thickhead]

I like the cover that I got for my JNC660 - dont know if there is one for the 770?

 

[FigureItOut]

For example, these are my 4/0 jumper cable clamps (4 ought, not 4 gauge) that I use on my 4000 amp starting unit. They have 1 ought cable running to both sides of the clamp.

Those are awesome, where'd you get them? What's on the cable end, an un-crimped connector?

 

[AA/FC]

Those are awesome, where'd you get them? What's on the cable end, an un-crimped connector?

They are very high quality. Yes, it an un-crimped connector ready to accept your cable.

Goodall Manufacturing makes them:
http://www.goodallmfg.com/product/extra-heavy-duty-battery-clamps/

But they don't sell direct to the customer. (Even though they're only 5 miles from my house. Lol)

I bought mine through Zips Truck Equipment:
https://zips.com

 

[Old Steamer]

Thanks for the comparison on these 2 jump packs. I'm in need of a new one and have been considering either the 660 or the 770. I really don't know which of the 2 I will end up buying but am leaning toward the 660 because of the braded connections on each side of the jaw.

Again, thanks for this informative thread. It beats sifting through hundreds of user reviews on Amazon or any other site.

 

[FigureItOut]

I just don't think that the difference in the jaw construction makes that much of a difference. Looking closer, there are big copper contact points there molded into the jaws.

Even still, I thought I'd find out for sure how much of a difference there was with a simple voltage drop test. I wrapped the "good" side of jaw in tape and tested voltage between the point where the cable attaches to clamp and the vehicles battery terminal, when starting the car only with the jump box. Then I did the opposite test, wapping the "bad" side of the jaw.

Voltage drop when starting only with the "good" side: 95mV. When starting only with the "bad" side: 103 mV. It's up to you to determine if 0.008 V drop is detrimental to the box's ability to start a vehicle.

To be fair, the validity of my test is questionable, at best.

 

[AA/FC]

I just don't think that the difference in the jaw construction makes that much of a difference. <snip>

It does, trust me!

As someone who has been jump starting cars, trucks, machinery, semi trucks, etc... for a living for almost 30 years I can tell you that it DOES make a difference.

It's possible that JNC (Clore Automotive) has designed and tested a clamp with large copper contact points around the hinge area that allowed them to remove the large braided conductor, and still maintain good electrical conductivity. I see your test, and applaud you for the effort. However, you were testing the new JNC clamps, which you even said looked like they improved the connection area with copper contacts. Try your test with just normal cheap jumper cables like most people carry in their trunk.

Here is a perfect example. Ironically, just last night, after I posted my original reply in this thread, I was called to jump start a Nissan Altima. There was nothing wrong with the vehicle other than it had sat for a week while the owner was out of town and when she came home the battery was dead. Her car was parked inside.... probably around 55 degrees in the garage. I connected the JNC 660 up to her battery and it started immediately. The customer was genuinely amazed that it started. She told me how her husband tried to jump start it the day before with their other car and it wouldn't start. She asked how I was able to jump the car so quickly. I explained to her there is a difference in quality when it comes to jumper cables and/or jump packs.... not all jumper cables/jump packs are created equally.

That was only one of hundreds of examples that I have experienced personally. It was only a little Nissan Altima, which SHOULD start easily every time. When it comes to big Ford V8 diesel engines, or large cubic inch 6 cylinder diesel semi truck engines, etc... the quality of jump start cables, clamps, etc becomes even more important, and the need for quality equipment becomes even more obvious.

Thank you for taking the time to perform a test. like I said, it's possible that Clore Automotive has designed a new clamp that doesn't require the braided conductor...... but I'll stick with the 660 just for good measure.

 

[kythri]

It does, trust me!

In the context of the 660 vs the 770, how does the jaw construction make a difference?

 

[Mr_B]

the 770 clamp in pic only feeds the one side of the clamp, other side toothed section is only for grip .
660 slyle better in use as more live clamp area in contact to terminal but more expensive manufacture over the 770 clamp design .

 

[AA/FC]

In the context of the 660 vs the 770, how does the jaw construction make a difference?

That is the million dollar question. I don't know because I don't own a 770.

If you go back to post #1 you will see that is where the OP brought up the point of jaw construction..... which led people in this thread (including me) to believe the clamps on the 770 were no different that any other cheap clamps that have been mass produced over the last 50+ years. It wasn't until post 18 where the OP mentioned upon closer inspection that there might be some extra copper contact points in the hinge area on the 770 clamps. If that is the case, and electrical conductivity between the 660 and the 770 clamps is similar, then the answer to your question is..... "it probably doesn't make any difference" (until the hinge gets all sacked out and sloppy from heavy use)

However, based on what I see in the pictures of the 770 clamps, VS what I see on the 660 clamps, it appears that the electrical connection on the 770 still relies on friction to pass electricity between the two jaws. The clamps on the 660 have a braided conductor that is mechanically attached on both sides with screws. So if that's the case, then the answer to your question is.... "it looks like Clore Automotive tried to cut manufacturing costs on the 770 clamps, but still maintain the same functionality as the 660 clamps"

In today's times, when large corporations are always trying to maximize profits, a "new design" does NOT necessarily mean "better design". It usually means less quality on the finished product, with more cash in the bank. (hey, company owners and/or share holders have expensive vacations to go on. They gotta pay for those trips somehow)

If you like the new design of the 770 clamps, by all means go out and buy a 770. Like I said, I do not own one, I can only go by what I see. And I personally like what I see on the 660 clamps. That is all.

 

[IndyGarage]

770 clamps work fine - not sure what the question is about them.

I've had my 770 for a year now, and used it probably 100 times with no problems. One day last week I used it probably 12 times - every vehicle I touched had a dead battery.

The only issue with the clamps is they are have a pretty wide grip on them - a little hard to get ahold of. They do have the curved end, which is very nice to use.

I would choose the 770 over the 660 for the length of the cables. That extra 12 inches or so makes a huge difference.

 

[AA/FC]

770 clamps work fine - not sure what the question is about them.

Really? I thought the issue had been discussed pretty clearly in this thread.


Anyway....

I've had my 770 for a year now, and used it probably 100 times with no problems. One day last week I used it probably 12 times - every vehicle I touched had a dead battery.

The only issue with the clamps is they are have a pretty wide grip on them - a little hard to get ahold of. They do have the curved end, which is very nice to use.

I would choose the 770 over the 660 for the length of the cables. That extra 12 inches or so makes a huge difference.

Well, there you have it! Someone who speaks from personal experience with the 770. It appears the cheaper designed clamps has not affected the performance of the 770. It seems that Clore Automotive has indeed found a way to electrify both sides of the jaws without having to use a braided conductor with mechanical connections on both sides.


I will admit that the longer cables on the 770 would be nice to have, that is for sure. But I will still take the 660 simply because of the superior clamp design, imo.