Omega air compressor, any horror stories?

[peter2772000]

Or happy ones?

My CH twin-cylinder supposed 6hp (*rolls eyes*) 60 gallon purchased at Costco in the late 90's is getting tired. Rated at 10 CFM @ 90 psi but can't keep up with my 3/8" air drill which needs 9 CFM. As well, I've noticed that it takes longer than usual to get back up to 120 psi than before.

To be honest, I'd be an idiot to replace/fix it. Other than my sandblaster which only sees occasional work, the low output isn't really an issue. But I never claimed to be the sharpest knife in the drawer........

I've priced out a set of rings/gasket kit and a valve plate, comes out to +/- $200 CAN shipped. And that includes only one crank ball-bearing ***., the other one is no longer available. I can get a new compressor from my supplier for $330 CAN. It's an Omega model CK-32, which replaces the CK-30 but is identical. As a bonus, it provides 12.5 CFM @ 90 psi with the same motor I already have.

Any experiences with Omega? Canadian manufacturer, but this is the first I've heard of them.

http://omegacompressors.com/download/catalogues/OMEGA PROFESSIONAL_CONTRACTOR_BROCHURE_EN.pdf

Page 7, the unit that uses the CK-30 compressor pump is the PP-6060V, compressor specs are just next to the unit specs.

 

[peter2772000]

Oh, and I forgot to add; What the hell, man? I never realized that there were separate sections for tools etc on this forum. I thought it was limited to General/HVAC/Electrical/Flooring. I was to stoopid to scroll further down.

Now I'll never stop visiting the site

 

[JohnDeere1]

Porter cables are on Sale or tractor supply you can buy online the had a big oiled up right for 399 just seen it 2 days ago very nice.

 

[larry_g]

Or happy ones?

. As a bonus, it provides 12.5 CFM @ 90 psi with the same motor I already have.


Page 7, the unit that uses the CK-30 compressor pump is the PP-6060V, compressor specs are just next to the unit specs.

Can you confirm that your current motor is a 230v 15a motor? A lot of wild numbers being thrown around by the manufactures. Volt/amps of the motor are a perty good indicator of what the motor is. The 6hp peak on the spec is a BS number.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[peter2772000]

Yes, 15A on 230v @ 3450 rpm. And yeah, I know that the 6hp number is complete bs

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Or happy ones?

My CH twin-cylinder supposed 6hp (*rolls eyes*) 60 gallon purchased at Costco in the late 90's is getting tired. Rated at 10 CFM @ 90 psi but can't keep up with my 3/8" air drill which needs 9 CFM. As well, I've noticed that it takes longer than usual to get back up to 120 psi than before.

To be honest, I'd be an idiot to replace/fix it. Other than my sandblaster which only sees occasional work, the low output isn't really an issue. But I never claimed to be the sharpest knife in the drawer........

I've priced out a set of rings/gasket kit and a valve plate, comes out to +/- $200 CAN shipped. And that includes only one crank ball-bearing ***., the other one is no longer available. I can get a new compressor from my supplier for $330 CAN. It's an Omega model CK-32, which replaces the CK-30 but is identical. As a bonus, it provides 12.5 CFM @ 90 psi with the same motor I already have.

Any experiences with Omega? Canadian manufacturer, but this is the first I've heard of them.

http://omegacompressors.com/download/catalogues/OMEGA PROFESSIONAL_CONTRACTOR_BROCHURE_EN.pdf

Page 7, the unit that uses the CK-30 compressor pump is the PP-6060V, compressor specs are just next to the unit specs.

$330 for the pump or the whole compressor?

Omegas are built with Chinese Swan compressor pumps. A company I once worked for sold them. They seemed like better than average compressors for the money. They were a bit more expensive than the big box stuff, but definitely better quality. I used to build up lots of compressors with Swan pumps and they lasted quite well.

 

[peter2772000]

$330 for the pump or the whole compressor?

Omegas are built with Chinese Swan compressor pumps. A company I once worked for sold them. They seemed like better than average compressors for the money. They were a bit more expensive than the big box stuff, but definitely better quality. I used to build up lots of compressors with Swan pumps and they lasted quite well.

Pump only. Complete unit was $1200 CAN. Your comments are reassuring...

 

[redmondjp]

Wow, if you can get a whole new pump for $330 I'd jump on that and call it a day. What is your time worth? Then you should be able to get another 10-15 years out of that compressor.

 

[peter2772000]

Why do I always over-analyze ****?

Ordered the new compressor. Comes with a 12.5" flywheel


Existing set-up; drive is 3.25", flywheel 10", CCW shaft end.

Using formula rpm x drive divided by desired crankshaft rpm = flywheel diameter

3450 x 3.25” divided by 1100 rpm = 10” flywheel

Using the above formula on the existing set-up, result is that the OEM CH compressor ran at +/- 1100 rpm



New set-up; drive is 3.25”, flywheel 12.5”

Using formula rpm x drive divided by desired crankshaft rpm = flywheel diameter


3450 x 3.25” divided by 900 rpm = 12.46” flywheel


Using the above formula on the existing set-up, result is that the new Omega compressor will run at +/- 900 rpm

Need to replace drive with a 1VP40 x 5/8” adjustable version

3450 x 3.3” divided by 950 rpm = 11.98” flywheel





The new Omega compressor is rated at 950 rpm and comes with a 12.5” flywheel

I'll need to adjust the new pulley to 3.45" in order to be able to work with the 12.5" flywheel, thus giving me 950 rpm and theoretically not overloading my electric motor.

My question is the following; Providing that by some fluke, my motor isn't yet at full-load amperage, is there an issue running the pump at a higher rpm? I ask because if I use the new 12.5" flywheel, I have to modify my condenser/discharge lines and a whole bunch of other minor things clearance-wise.
"If" the 10" flywheel fits the new compressor, I could run the stock 3.25" drive pulley and achieve 1100 rpm. Or close to it.

But, if amperage surpasses the 15A/no service-factor rating (and I'm sure it will) I'll run a 2.75" adjustable pulley and be at the specified 950 rpm.

Not crazy about running such a small drive pulley, but a toothed version should help it 'round the tight bends.

Opinions. And no, "Get a life" doesn't count

 

[redmondjp]

What am I missing here? From what I read, you need to do nothing at all. The slightly slower pump speed will give you a little less CFM, but the motor will be fine with that as there will be less load on it. There is no magic that happens exactly at 950 rpm.

I would install the new pump with the existing pulley sizes and see how it works before doing anything else. You'll probably like it just fine and won't even notice the small difference in performance, with the gain of motor and pump life due to working them a little easier.

 

[larry_g]

What am I missing here? From what I read, you need to do nothing at all. The slightly slower pump speed will give you a little less CFM, but the motor will be fine with that as there will be less load on it. There is no magic that happens exactly at 950 rpm.

I would install the new pump with the existing pulley sizes and see how it works before doing anything else. You'll probably like it just fine and won't even notice the small difference in performance, with the gain of motor and pump life due to working them a little easier.

X2 on this. Get it running with what you have and then determine is you need to make changes. One thing to check is the amp draw of the motor. If your way under rated amps then you can speed up the pump if you want. If your only pulling 12 amps then you can speed it up 20%.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[peter2772000]

I'm bummed.....


Retro-fitted the pump, re-plumbed accordingly, replaced the fixed drive pulley with an adjustable one of the same diameter.

Pros: Much, much quieter. I'm guessing that the larger 12.5" flywheel has a lot to do with that.

Cons: I don't think it's pumping much quicker than my worn OEM CH. I had to open up the drive about 1.5 turns to keep the FLA below 15A. Again, quiet as all hell compared to the CH, but I get the feeling it isn't giving me much more, if any more performance than my CH.

I'm gonna tach the SOB tomorrow, curious to see if I'm getting the 950 rpm the compressor is rated at. Worst comes to worst, it's quieter than before

 

[MacMcMacmac]

(Motor pulley OD X Motor RPM)/Compressor Pulley OD = Pump RPM.

 

[redmondjp]

Again, stop fixating on 950rpm! If you've already maxed out your motor current, guess what? You're done.

If you try to get the pump going any faster, you will overload your motor.

If you really want to run the pump faster, you will need to find a larger motor.

 

[peter2772000]

Mac, thx for the formula, but I'd already posted it at the beginning of this thread.

Redmond, if I don't get the 950 rpm, then I don't benefit from the 12 cfm capacity of the compressor. Hell, this unit presently takes longer to build up pressure than my old 10 cfm compressor. I counted 100+ seconds to go from 80 psi to 120 in my 60 gallon tank.

Amps are erratic, bouncing between 14-16 on two different clamp-on ammeters, which I've never seen a motor do before. Tached the flywheel, I'm at 770 rpm.

Mostly beause of the erratic amperage draw, I'll be looking for/ordering a new motor this am. Present FLA is 15A, so I'm guessing this is a 2hp motor. I'm going to try and find a 2.5hp which would allow me to use the existing 12 gauge circuit wiring while maximizing the compressor potential.

 

[redmondjp]

Your motor is already at the 3 - 3.3HP (depending upon its efficiency) level, and they don't make a 4HP motor. Your amperage readings confirm that you dare not run that pump any faster with that motor.

Your only real choice, if you really want to spin that pump at 950, is to go up to a true 5HP motor. You should be able to source one for around $300 online. But then, you also need a motor starter (search on this forum as there are dozens of compressor motor starter threads that discuss everything) for that size of a motor (NEMA starter will be higher quality and more expensive and outlive you, while much less expensive Chinesium IEC starter will work, and maybe not blow up right away). And you're going to need at least a 30A circuit with 10ga wire.

I had similar conversation with a coworker this morning, whose electric furnace is tripping off the main breaker on his 100A panel (fed from 100A service) on overload. He can either 1) upgrade entire the electrical service and panel to 200A and then increase breaker and feeder size to the furnace, or 2) disconnect one of the electrical heating elements inside the furnace to lower its electrical load.

No free lunch, I'm afraid.

 

[peter2772000]

"No free lunch". Famous last words

I'm sure my 15A motor is a 2hp. I replaced it with a 3-phase 3hp 3600 rpm motor yesterday. Wiring up a VFD today and running the motor/compressor thru its paces.

Interesting fact I only just discovered. VFD's are capable of not only lowering hertz below 60, but can raise them up to 80-90 Hz as well (provided the amperage doesn't rise past FL). I wanted to order a larger adjustable drive pulley when my drive supplier told me about this. Is this common knowledge? These drives are amazing. I heard they can make toast & cheese sandwiches as well....LOL

So to summarize, to date it's cost me;

- $335 CAN for the compressor
- $280 CAN for the new motor
- $900 CAN for an ABB VFD

Coulda prolly bought a real 2-3 hp compressor for that amount.

Now? Now it's personal....

 

[Firebrick43]

It's common knowledge that a Vfd can drive faster than 60 hertz.

Wish you would asked about vfds/motors before buying. Could have saved you a **** load of money and had a better setup. But what you have is quality stuff.

If you have a standard 3600 rpm 3 phase motor you can drive it safely to 75 hertz. You will loose toque but you have excess so this probably is not an issue. You can drive the Vfd/motor down to 40 hertz safely. If it's an inverter duty motor the improved wire insulation and cooling allow you to go to 12-75 hertz on a 3600 rpm motor. A 1750 motor can go 12-120 hertz.

Now this is only for the Vfd/motor. You pump is probably splash lubed and has a minimum speed to fling the oil sufficiently. This speed should be listed in the manual. Most pumps this is 500-600 rpm

With the Vfd you can wire a 2 position switch to do a high and low speed. When you need volume flip to high speed and when you need air but not much on low it will be much quieter. Also start and stop can be ramped up and down slowly to lower inrush amp draw

 

[peter2772000]

Update;


https://photos.app.goo.gl/3iLfEPg0YOsaOsco1


Sure was a learning experience. First off, had to wire up jumpers in the control circuit and play with the parameters to automatically kick on the VFD upon powering up. Hadn't thought about it beforehand, but the pressure switch kills/powers up the VFD when the pressure drops to around 80psi. In stock form, I'd have to manually engage the VFD every time the the pressure switch kicked in. Duh...

I've got the motor running at exactly 70Hz in order to meet my target 950 flywheel rpm's. I'll be replacing my drive pulley from a 3.25" to a 4.15" adjustable-sheave so's to drop the Hertz back down to 60.

All in all, not impressed with the supposed added capacity. I'm now running a V-twin-cylinder being driven by a 3hp motor rather than the CH vertical compressor and 2hp motor. I don't find that the tank fills any quicker than with my OEM set-up when new. Quieter, no doubt. But hardly worth the $1300 CAN that this experiment ran me.

Live and learn, beotch LOL