How do I cut bottom plate flush with drywall?

[pedaltheglobe]

As a winter project I want to trim out my garage in 1 by. I am using treated 1x4 for baseboard as some moisture comes up through the floor. I don't think they used a vapor barrier. The bottom plate sticks out around 3/4"-1" past the drywall. How can I cut it flush with the drywall? I tried using an oscillating tool, but ended up burning up a $15 blade cutting only 1 linear foot. It also took me around 15 minutes and I have around 100 linear feet to go. Any other tool recommendations that will cut flush against the drywall quickly and not cost me $1500 in blades.

 

[PCustoms]

Nail a 1x2 (or whatever is needed) above where the plate is proud of the drywall. Then nail the 1x4 to that.

I don't see a practical way to cut back your plate.

 

[JamesW84]

can you just use the bottom plate as your trim? stain it and let it be.

Or you could put trim in front of it and then some quarter round on top of the bottom plate to hide the top. The only tool I know you could maybe use would be a chainsaw. A sawzall would maybe work, but the blade would hit the floor I would think.

 

[Bluevista]

A hammer and an old wood chisel, once you split it you can pull long chunks off if the grain is fairly straight and not full of knots.

 

[Gear Box]

Don’t cut any of it , put a 1x2 on the drywall above the plate that sticks out, then a 1x4 over that on floor. Leaves a larger ledge but could look okay in a garage. You could also put a 1/2” reveal between the two base boards for a different look. Beats cutting the plate.

PC Custom you beat me!

 

[wrenchguy]

don't do it.

 

[The Cobbler]

just nail a 1 x above on the drywall, then paint as a base.

 

[strutaeng]

Did they use like a 2x6 sill plate with 2x4 studs? That looks a bit strange.

Maybe trim it out as suggested.

They only tool I can see cutting that flush is a sawsall with long, flexible blade, but that would be so slow. Or a toekick saw, but I'm certain toekick saw only has a depth cut of 3/4".

 

[pedaltheglobe]

don't do it.

Why?

 

[pedaltheglobe]

Did they use like a 2x6 sill plate with 2x4 studs? That looks a bit strange.

Maybe trim it out as suggested.

They only tool I can see cutting that flush is a sawsall with long, flexible blade, but that would be so slow. Or a toekick saw, but I'm certain toekick saw only has a depth cut of 3/4".

Yes they did use a 2x6 plate with 2x4 studs. Unsure why unless they just had extra lumber laying around or something.

 

[The Cobbler]

. Or a toekick saw, but I'm certain toekick saw only has a depth cut of 3/4".

you could use a jamb saw but it would be a lot of time

 

[PassnThru]

Here you go

flush cut saw

Cheaply?
No.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

Here you go

flush cut saw

Cheaply?
No.

I figured there was some type of masonry tool that cuts flush. Thank you. I will call the local tool rental place and see if they have one.

 

[PassnThru]

It's not meant for masonry and I doubt that you will find one for rent.

 

[383]

Do you know how the wall is constructed? Maybe the wide plate is covering a cinder block or stem wall that the floor is poured to, and the floor will look worse if you remove it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm in the camp of leaving be and adding your trim board right on top of it.

 

[ItsNemo]

Little scary to use...but...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[smalltown]

I'm with NUTTSGT Make a trim board to fit flush with the wall, and the 2x edge. Maybe if you had a router you could put a decorative edge on the top of the trim.

 

[bad_idea]

I would leave it. It could actually prove useful in securing your work benches.

 

[slip knot]

Toe kick saw.

 

[DFB]

Cheap harbor fright toe kick saw might help depth of cut is limited to 3/4" though. Might be able to split off the wood after you make kerf cut. One of the reviewers said they cut thru a 4x 6 like that


More than I want to get into though

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-38-in-68-amp-heavy-duty-toe-kick-saw-62420.html

 

[RocketScott]

Sawzall

Helps if you know how to use it and have a good blade

Be absolutely sure that there isn't a reason it's there first

 

[59 wagon man]

sawzall with a wood blade end of story

 

[firebirdparts]

You guys evidently never owned a sawzall. They can't cut flush to anything.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I use my oscillating Fein saw for cuts like that all the time. One blade can cut about 20 ft of 2 x 4. The trick is to drive it back and forth with light pressure taking about 1/8" depth per pass. Would take me about 10 minutes using a regular bi-metallic blade. If you tried plunging to full thickness right away and going down the length of the board it will heat up and get dull real fast.

 

[PugetDude]

You've evidently never owned a sawzall. They can cut flush to almost anything, with a long flexible blade.

Fixed that for you.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

You guys evidently never owned a sawzall. They can't cut flush to anything.

The same thing crossed my mind although I appreciate all the responses. To get past the guard on the sawzall I would have to let the guard rest against the drywall and cut in at an angle. Then I would likely cut inward too much and get into structural issues by cutting past the portion of the sill plate that the studs are resting on. Not to mention each time I nick the concrete with the blade its going to bend it.

To answer some of the other responses the extruding portion of the bottom sill plate is not structural and I'm confident it is safe to cut.

I appreciate the other ideas of using 2×4 etc and keeping it but I'm gung ho on removing it. I have a look in mind I want for the garage and I need it gone.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

Fixed that for you.

Your response is appreciated but I disagree. With the sawzall angled and the blade flexed to clear the guard/drywall its going to want to constantly hit the drywall at the portion of the blade that is flexing. The sawzall would have to be at around a 30 degree angle due to the thickness of its housing and guard. Not going to work. Plus keep in mind there is concrete underneath. I don't know if you have ever cut wood with a sawzall on top of concrete but I have plenty of times when I was too lazy to get my saw horses out. It bends the hell out of the blade and kicks back like a mule each time you nick the floor.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

I use my oscillating Fein saw for cuts like that all the time. One blade can cut about 20 ft of 2 x 4. The trick is to drive it back and forth with light pressure taking about 1/8" depth per pass. Would take me about 10 minutes using a regular bi-metallic blade. If you tried plunging to full thickness right away and going down the length of the board it will heat up and get dull real fast.

That's what I was doing with my oscillating tool but what is ruining the blades is when they constantly hit the concrete when I get to the bottom pass. Maybe I will try your method down to the last 1/4" and then use the other posters hammer and chisel method to finish it off.

 

[Tom Sestito]

Hammer and chisel
Sawzall with a long blade
Door jamb saw
Fein tool with the proper cutter

Lots of options
For speed and accuracy on this job I’d use a hammer and chisel every time.

 

[wssix99]

Little scary to use...but...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

O M G

Ordered! (I'll also be sure to have an extra pint of O- in the frige when its in use.)

 

[egdede]

PugetDude is right. the technique would be partly the same used to start a plunge cut (with the blade upside down). If you don't know what that means, or don't have the technique down, you will have the problems that pedaltheglobe speaks of.

But, if you know how to plunge cut with a sawzall and can put the upside long flexible blade along the drywall it will easy peasy. It's all in the wrist.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

PugetDude is right. the technique would be partly the same used to start a plunge cut (with the blade upside down). If you don't know what that means, or don't have the technique down, you will have the problems that pedaltheglobe speaks of.

But, if you know how to plunge cut with a sawzall and can put the upside long flexible blade along the drywall it will easy peasy. It's all in the writ

I can plunge cut with a sawzall but typically that is done with what you are cutting being elevated on saw horses or something of that sort. There is concrete underneath. You must have a much steadier hand than me to think it would be "easy peasy" to plunge cut 100 linear foot directly on top of concrete while at an angle to clear the drywall.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

Does anyone know of a toe kick saw that can cut 1.5" depth?

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I would leave the bottom plate and put the baseboard on top of it. No need to remove it.

 

[BADSIX]

I would use a 2x4 and notch out one edge to fit over the plate. you can use a dado blade for this or maybe a router. I would then cut the top outside edge at a 45.
Jay D.

 

[RocketScott]

Does anyone know of a toe kick saw that can cut 1.5" depth?

Yea, it’s called a sawzall




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[850xpeps]

Your response is appreciated but I disagree. With the sawzall angled and the blade flexed to clear the guard/drywall its going to want to constantly hit the drywall at the portion of the blade that is flexing. The sawzall would have to be at around a 30 degree angle due to the thickness of its housing and guard. Not going to work. Plus keep in mind there is concrete underneath. I don't know if you have ever cut wood with a sawzall on top of concrete but I have plenty of times when I was too lazy to get my saw horses out. It bends the hell out of the blade and kicks back like a mule each time you nick the floor.

I have cut wood on top of concrete plenty. If you add some skill to it then no problem at all. And you can remove the guards with no issues.


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[RVDan]

I've cut plenty of wood flush with a Sawzall. I see no issue.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Yeah, the guys bending blades are probably holding it too close to vertical.