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How do I cut bottom plate flush with drywall?

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Siteman25

Active member
Joined
Mar 12, 2015
Messages
31
I would trim out with pvc board on top of the treated plate if it was mine, since it won't wick water, but if OP had to remove the protruding board, I would go back to the OMT with the half moon wood blade and use a scrap piece of wood on the floor to keep the blade off the concrete, cut a bit then get the last little bit with hammer and chisel. By cutting a length then chipping it off you give the blade a few minutes to cool.
 

samss

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Joined
Aug 20, 2014
Messages
502
Location
Conway, AR
Little scary to use...but...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

71TDMWCZKFL.gif

One of these on a lawn edger and you'll be done in a flash.:thumbup:
 

wrenchguy

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Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
4,698
Location
NW Indiana

like me…. everyone has a opinion, u know what always goes with this? assholes are ready to pucker and posting will pile up. but this post has some decent replies. i'd rather think about what i'm gonna get done, how to get the floor dirty than put in some fancy pants trim. again good luck with ur project.
 
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KenC

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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,579
actually, I never referred to a toe kick saw.....


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My mistake, I thought that since the first paragraph in the post you quoted was about a toe kick saw, that it was your reference.
 

mrpizza

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Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
2,935
Location
IL
if you nick the drywall its a quick fix with your joint knife and some compound, little sanding and paint. Done.
 

johnyg

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Nov 11, 2015
Messages
319
Location
boca raton fl
this thread has really brought out our willingness to help. good or bad its great that you want to help and i think it says alot for the character of the members.you would all be great neighbors !!!!
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
16
If you are absolutely insistent on removing that lip from on the bottom plate the only other tool I could think of that would possibly work would be a portable electric planner. I would turn it on it’s side, adjust it so it’s on about it’s maximum cut depth, but also put down 1/8-1/4” piece of plywood on the floor to keep it off the concrete and go to town. It’s obviously going to generate a huge amount of waste that would have to be cleaned up constantly. Other than that I’m with the rest of the consensus on using 1 by an putting the trim over. 19485c678d126b5406562940896ac63a.jpg

In my basement I’m also putting up this corrugated tin at chair rail height. It would be close to the width you’re after, it still retains the look of a shop and it’s light reflective to help keep away the shadows. It’s $5 a sheet for a piece 25 1/4”wide x 36” tall at Menards.

Good luck in your decision!

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Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
16
I like the way you think.



I just glued it against the wall with construction adhesive and rigged up a few pieces of scrap wood with my weights to keep the pressure on the wall until the glue cures for a few hours. It’s definitely a process but the results speak for themselves.


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