Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Quonset Hut Garage Build
- Thread starter dwysywd
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Apparently you are missing something. The video very clearly states motor horizontal only. How much clearer does it need to be?
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Good deal.
Changing It to look like this. I’m a little thick headed sometimes.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
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Unfortunately, I can’t seem to get anything working now. Pump runs but doesn’t seem to be moving any fluid. The pump housing now gets hot, never did that before. I topped off the lost fluid when I opened the system. I’m at a loss. I’ve spent the better part of 4 hours working on this and now it’s not working. Talk about frustrating.
I did install the taco accu-flo unit but I can turn it almost to closed and it doesn’t seem to help. And now my tankless isn’t firing again.
So. I’m going to take a break from it and look at it tomorrow.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Question.
Aren't those expansion tanks supposed to be mounted with the fitting in the down position? I would think this would give any air in the system some place to hibernate while keeping the rest of the system fully filled with fluid.
Aren't those expansion tanks supposed to be mounted with the fitting in the down position? I would think this would give any air in the system some place to hibernate while keeping the rest of the system fully filled with fluid.
Last edited:
Question.
Aren't those expansion tanks supposed to be mounted with the fitting in the down position? I would think this would give any air in the system some place to hibernate while keeping the rest of the system fully filled with fluid.
Actually, because they are air balanced, they can be mounted either way.
jbmatth
Well-known member
That is if the bladder is in good working order. I had mine go out on our well and it was causing fits with the pump and water pressure at the house was very unstable.
JB
JB
Ok, been 3 months since my last update... Nothing to update. LoL. Still having issues with the floor. In fact, I turned it off back in March. I have air trapped somewhere in the lines. I have the spray foam guys coming around mid June. So frankly, I need to get the hut emptied and the **** off the ceiling, tape up my light hangers and once the foam is done, then I put it all back together. Then I can focus on the floor.
Seeing I can't start one project without starting 50 others, I have a few new ones to talk about.
I'm going hunting this fall in the MT back country, Missouri River breaks for mule deer. I am building a small tiny camper for a hunt cabin. Now, I guess you could ask why: why not buy one? Why not rent one? Why build something like this at all? Well I will start a separate build thread on just is subject rather than hijack my own thread here.
Also, wrapping up my remodel of my rental house and one item left on my master bedroom/bath addition...the darn door trim molding.
Until then, have a great week. I will try and get the other threads started this weekend.
Seeing I can't start one project without starting 50 others, I have a few new ones to talk about.
I'm going hunting this fall in the MT back country, Missouri River breaks for mule deer. I am building a small tiny camper for a hunt cabin. Now, I guess you could ask why: why not buy one? Why not rent one? Why build something like this at all? Well I will start a separate build thread on just is subject rather than hijack my own thread here.
Also, wrapping up my remodel of my rental house and one item left on my master bedroom/bath addition...the darn door trim molding.
Until then, have a great week. I will try and get the other threads started this weekend.
Hdonly0
Well-known member
Glad I found this thread. I got one of these buildings from a friend after his father past away. He had no paperwork and knew nothing about it except he wanted the pile of metal out of his way. Got the metal, bolts and one endwall just for coming and picking it up. It looked like I could assemble the arches 20' wide and lower center or 16' wide and higher center. I went with 20' wide and poured a slab and built 2' tall block knee wall. Just now pouring the block full. Saw some great ideas here for insulation.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I will be very interested to hear your take on the insulation.
jbmatth
Well-known member
Insulation looks good, how thick did you spray? Can you remind me what your heating/cooling plans are again?
Thank you,
JB
Thank you,
JB
Sure. He said 2" but I have 3" in some spots. Never less than at least 2". As for heat, radiant floor. But I need help getting it all running again. And I have a wood stove but if the floor works well I don't think I will need it. My neighbor keeps his steel shop at 70 degrees all winter. It's comfortable. He doesn't have any other heat source. Looking forward to it for sure. As for cooling, I have a small AC unit that is freestanding, it leaks, which is a problem when it sits on the carpet! LoL BUT isn't a problem when it sits on the concrete floor with a drain! So I will give that a whirl this weekend.
jbmatth
Well-known member
Sounds like you will have a very comfortable working environment in the very near future. I'll just stay over hear jealous and sweating. lol
JB
JB
So, finally got the lights turned back on and the trailer unloaded. Boy I picked the hottest day of the summer! Anyhow I’ve only reinstalled about half the lights. Just trying to figure out the logistics of reinstalling the rest. The brackets I used before were covered by the spray foam. I had no idea that the coverage would be so great and that in most places I ended up getting 3” instead of 2”. Also reinstalled the aluminum foil coated foam panels. Figured why not, I had them, they were numbered and I used 5” lag bolts instead of the 2.5” that I originally used. And finally, unloaded the cargo trailer. First, figured easier to have it all there and I can sort and stack. Next, it’s really too hard to unload only a few items at a time, always looking for something that’s still buried in the trailer. My goal is to post a few pics tomorrow of “now” and then some this weekend of the “later”.
rixtrix1
Well-known member
How much pressure did you put into the Air side?
So an update. Getting the barn organized. It’s coming along. I got the floor working on the first try after hooking it all up. I had to purge air out of my lines. Holy smokes did I have a lot in there. And then I installed a cat door. This was a PITA. LoL. But it’s done. I get a heavy west wind. So I may have to put a small wind break by the door on the left side as you walk out to keep the wind and snow from blowing open the cat door. 
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jbmatth
Well-known member
Great to hear you will now have working heat and just in time for cold weather.
JB
JB
I know. So I’m still tinkering with the timer. I may just leave it on all winter as the thermostat will kick the floor on when needed. As it’s been getting colder here in MI I’ve found I’m turning the timer on more and more. So more on that later. It could haven been an unnecessary installation as that’s overriding the thermostat. I originally installed it before I had the thermostat.
So I’ve turned off the timer and just let the thermostat do it’s thing... of course it works fine. Barn has been staying consistently 63. Now as the weather gets colder it will run more, but seems to burn very little fuel. I’m curious how this winter’s consumption will play out
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would think that turning the timer off would be, in the end, much better than trying to cycle it due to the long time to reach set-point.
update: it all took a shibby! The Marey GA10LP I was using to heat the floor...well it just stopped working. No idea why. I have to call the MFG tomorrow. I have run every troubleshooting tip that I was able to find on the internet.
Got gas? Check, and made sure the electronic check valve was working too.
Got water? Pressure? GPM Flow? Yep. checked my flow, my pressure is 40 psi and my head is 6ft, but PEXuniverse.com suggests adding 2ft for precaution. I double checked my numbers and I have 8ft or less. You take the longest run X .03 and that gives you your head feet. Taco recommends 10ft or less for the 007-F5 circulation pump.
Got bubbles? Nope, checked for air leaks.
Also, side bar, the TACO pump can be mounted ANY way that works. This came up earlier in the thread. Called Taco...mounting position DOES NOT MATTER.
Finally, I think the only thing it has to be is the tankless water heater took a ****. I have a 4 year warranty that I purchased from Amazon. LOL, the squaretrade.com warranty company wants me to disassemble the unit and take it in for "Local" service. Closest MAREY distributer is 3 hours away and I am not disassembling anything. They can fix it where is sits or replace it. On a side note, I will never buy a MAREY unit again. They are the worst to deal with, they do not get back in any sort of timely fashion, and this reinforces the old adage, you get what you pay for!
If you have any tips, let me know. Maybe I missed something.
Got gas? Check, and made sure the electronic check valve was working too.
Got water? Pressure? GPM Flow? Yep. checked my flow, my pressure is 40 psi and my head is 6ft, but PEXuniverse.com suggests adding 2ft for precaution. I double checked my numbers and I have 8ft or less. You take the longest run X .03 and that gives you your head feet. Taco recommends 10ft or less for the 007-F5 circulation pump.
Got bubbles? Nope, checked for air leaks.
Also, side bar, the TACO pump can be mounted ANY way that works. This came up earlier in the thread. Called Taco...mounting position DOES NOT MATTER.
Finally, I think the only thing it has to be is the tankless water heater took a ****. I have a 4 year warranty that I purchased from Amazon. LOL, the squaretrade.com warranty company wants me to disassemble the unit and take it in for "Local" service. Closest MAREY distributer is 3 hours away and I am not disassembling anything. They can fix it where is sits or replace it. On a side note, I will never buy a MAREY unit again. They are the worst to deal with, they do not get back in any sort of timely fashion, and this reinforces the old adage, you get what you pay for!
If you have any tips, let me know. Maybe I missed something.
Found this today, it shows my head calc is 12 ft. wonder if this might be my problem seeing my Taco pump is rated for 10ft max head.
Basic rule of thumb to calculate ft of head and its very conservative. Head is not communalitive. So if you are zone with zone valves you only need to calculate the longest run. If a zone has an air handler or coil you must add that pressure drop to the ft of head of the run. 1PSI = 2.31' of Head
Longest run * 1.5 * 04 = Ft of head
Example 100 * 1.5 * .04 = 6' of head
Longest run - From the outlet side of the circulator thru the heating system back to the inlet side.
To calculate GPM - GPM = Btu/hr / (Delta T * 500)
Example: 100,000 / (20 * 500) = 10 GPM
Basic rule of thumb to calculate ft of head and its very conservative. Head is not communalitive. So if you are zone with zone valves you only need to calculate the longest run. If a zone has an air handler or coil you must add that pressure drop to the ft of head of the run. 1PSI = 2.31' of Head
Longest run * 1.5 * 04 = Ft of head
Example 100 * 1.5 * .04 = 6' of head
Longest run - From the outlet side of the circulator thru the heating system back to the inlet side.
To calculate GPM - GPM = Btu/hr / (Delta T * 500)
Example: 100,000 / (20 * 500) = 10 GPM
all this is moot. figured it out. faulty check valve for the propane. It works on a pressure bladder valve, like old fuel pumps. this is inherently a bad design and explains why Marey isn't interested in helping me fix this. I have received a full refund, unfortunately not any compensation for my grief!
I have a video I will post of the problem. But i took a screw out of the switch to relieve some of the pressure and it works. It is hard to explain, but I tested this and it works. So for the short term I have it working. This is not a great long term solution though. I cannot guess how long this system will actually last. So I am going to start working on a new plan to heat the water.
I have a video I will post of the problem. But i took a screw out of the switch to relieve some of the pressure and it works. It is hard to explain, but I tested this and it works. So for the short term I have it working. This is not a great long term solution though. I cannot guess how long this system will actually last. So I am going to start working on a new plan to heat the water.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm sure you will get this figured out but boy, you sure have had your share of setbacks.
the sequence works like this: thermostat says need heat, turns on pump, pump circulates hydronic floor, the fluid movement triggers the bladder to heave, opening the switch which opens the gas valve and starts the ignitor at the same time, the igniter is on a 10 sec timer, its a pizo like on your grill, the flames run, heating the water until the thermostat says warm enough and shuts the pump off.
Where I think the break down was happening is the bladder isn't moving enough, prob has a tear or is weak, mainly because this type of heater is meant to be used 10 or 15 gal at a time because its for remote location showers and hot water on demand, and while it worked fine for the past month, i have been using it more than it was likely to see in 10 years of cabin or RV/camping use. That still doesn't account for shoddy workmanship, but it does explain why the whole house units are $1000 and the hobby units are $250. It is a quality of parts equation and you get what you pay for.
Anyhow, let me know if anyone has any feedback one way or another.
Where I think the break down was happening is the bladder isn't moving enough, prob has a tear or is weak, mainly because this type of heater is meant to be used 10 or 15 gal at a time because its for remote location showers and hot water on demand, and while it worked fine for the past month, i have been using it more than it was likely to see in 10 years of cabin or RV/camping use. That still doesn't account for shoddy workmanship, but it does explain why the whole house units are $1000 and the hobby units are $250. It is a quality of parts equation and you get what you pay for.
Anyhow, let me know if anyone has any feedback one way or another.
HOTFR8
Banned
I know the feeling.jbmatth
Well-known member
I have no real experience with bladder valves in these units but have dealt with them in an industrial application in firewater service. The water is dirty and the valves were failing constantly because of this. We changed them the pneumatic 1/4 turn valves and have had no failures in the 4 years since. Maybe something to consider,
JB
JB
JB, it's not the valve it's the damn bladder. LoL. I actually go to the urologist tomorrow so that's kind of funny. Anyhow, there is a bladder valve that expands when the water pressure increases. This allows the safety gas check valve to open and the igniter to fire. But that bladder valve doesn't expand as much as it needs to and because it's broken it doesn't stay open while there is pressure. It's a failure point that Marey knows about. So I'm going to order a new part and repurpose the heater. I'm going to get a better boiler.