Quick-release fasteners?

[Tremelune]

My girlfriend is a dog musher (I know, right?). She has a three-wheeled dryland cart that folds down so it can be mounted on a trailer hitch. To fold it down requires removing two bolts with wingnuts.

The sled is a hard tail, the trails around here are very rocky, and the wingnuts routinely come loose. I've tried putting star washers into play, but they do not help. Threadlock is out, as these bolts come out and in almost every day. "Just tighten them more" is...not a sustainable option.

I'm wondering if there exists some kind of quick-release fastener that is immune to rattling out? Some kind of coupler that could join two round steel tubes at an arbitrary angle would also work. It's not quite worth drilling for a cotter pin, as dealing with that every day would be annoying, and I suspect they would fatigue quickly. Maybe some kind of giant wingnut would work (with 3/8" thread)?

 

[gdocktor3]

A clevis pin and clip. They come in all different diameters and lengths. This is just an example. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/produ...vice^m-plaid^82128163557-sku^2XAN8-adType^PLA

Here’s an adjustable type with multiple clip points
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H8VLMH/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Tremelune]

The issue with a clevis here is that this coupling needs to be tight, as these are effectively handlebar supports.

 

[LXCam]

The issue with a clevis here is that this coupling needs to be tight, as these are effectively handlebar supports.

Then I'd use the bolts, drill the hole and use a R type cotter pin. Or if you felt like fighting it, nyloc nuts

 

[Bobioz1]

Bike seat quick release.

 

[bob15]

Then I'd use the bolts, drill the hole and use a R type cotter pin.

^^^^^^^^^

I'd go this route. Quick and easy...and no fatigue.

 

[Lelandwelds]

The issue with a clevis here is that this coupling needs to be tight, as these are effectively handlebar supports.

I have seen fasteners cut for e-clips very near the designed nut location. I assumed it was a safety thing.

I suspect the true problem is one of design. You need a second bolt or pin. Or, the tubing needs to be welded to a three sided fixture that allows bolting from two planes and limits movement. Add another tube for triangulation.

The second bolt could use a linchpin.

 

[VocaTexas]

Weld two short tabs with a small hole in each onto the angled tube 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart. Weld a small disc with matching sized holes on it's edge to the nut. Insert a small pin through the holes. I've seen pins like I'm thinking of, but can't remember the term right now. They have a small spring-loaded ball on the end of the shaft and a pull-ring on the other end.

 

[alex71]

You can try using a jam nut under the wingnut. Might still vibrate loose... Or not. Easy to try.

 

[Alchymist]

Redneck engineer it. Drill a small hole in each wing of the wing nut. Get a rubber strap and put an S hook on it small enough to go in the hole in the wing. Stretch the other end of the strap to the edge of the expanded mesh frame.

 

[plinker]

QR pins would work and could be tethered as well.

Kind of spendy but these are a reference, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-Quick-Release-Pin-2-pc-P-N-90390/232628996164?epid=1034377903&hash=item3629c4c844:g:wwEAAOSwLwBaWXhy&vxp=mtr

 

[EOC_Jason]

They do make flanged wingnuts but I'm assuming that tubing is probably hollow and you don't want to put too much stress to start to bend / collapse it.

They also make nylon-insert wingnuts, maybe give them a try and if they work out buy a bag in bulk and replace every few uses?

Have you just used the internal tooth lock washer, or have you tried a regular split one and lining it up on the pipe better?

Using a jam-nut you would need to have a wrench or two with you, and I kind of gather you wanted "tool-less".

My personal choice would be what LXCam said, drill the bolts, get locknuts for use with cotter pins and use a couple R type cotter pins that you can pull out by hand. I would think just hand-tight for the nut would be sufficient.

 

[machine_punk]

I don't have any brilliant answers for you...other than re-welding it and changing the joint configuration to work better.

I guess my question is, "What do the other mushers do?" This cannot be an original problem...somebody has to have solved this already.

Kev

 

[txlonghorn1989]

When you figure out what works let us know. No telling how many of us may find ourselves behind a team of sled dogs some day so it would be good to know what works! ;-)

Good luck!

 

[EOC_Jason]

Look on McMaster Carr, they have nuts & washers specifically for "high vibration" use... If they can stay in place being used on a shaker table, I would think the sled would be a piece of cake.

Also worth mentioning is switching to a fine-thread if that already isn't...

 

[Buckgnarly]

We mushed until our huskies got too old, I had a Summer trike cart I made from mountain bike parts.... can't help you on the nut idea right now, but post up some dog pics!! Does she mush Siberians?

 

[theoldwizard1]

Weld an eye on the upright. Use a stainless steel spring loaded carabiner


or a SS snap shackle



on the other piece.

 

[Tremelune]

Nice, these are workable ideas—let me research a bit. In the meantime, here's the team:

http://www.blueeyesandspitfire.com/

https://www.instagram.com/jkizadventures/

 

[JamesW84]

Bike seat quick release.

this looks like it might work https://www.walmart.com/ip/Silver-Tone-Alloy-Quick-Release-Binder-Bolt-Tool-for-Bike/47615447?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571&adid=22222222227034936886&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=75443884354&wl4=pla-175433679394&wl5=9023746&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838760&wl11=online&wl12=47615447&wl13=&veh=sem

Otherwise, I'd probably do like you said and get a bigger wing nut, or get a regular hex nut and just figure a way to store a wrench to tighten it.

 

[sk farmer]

how about a longer bolt and installing spring under the wing nut to keep tension on it?

it may take a little experimentation to find one heavy enough to keep the tension yet light enough to be compressed with hand tightening.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would first try replacing the bolts with fine thread as they tend to be less likely to loosen

 

[speed bump]

I would try a lawnmower t-handle bolt and see if it holds up. They still will eventually vibrate loose but it might be good enough and they are like $2 a piece.

 

[6PTsocket]

Use a castle nut with the R clip. Then you can tighten it snug until the next set of notches line up with the hole and put in the clip. Tight and secure. It works on wheels and all you need is the hole in the bolt at roughly the right height.

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[gahrajmahal]

A belville washer might do the trick too.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-belleville-spring-washers/=1bj96v2

 

[tonyprovo723]

Try a bolt and wing nut as mentioned but drill the threads to accept a clevis hairpin. Snug up the wing nut as needed. Have the hairpin sit inside the wings. If it vibrates loose, it should only back out a 1/4 turn. Like a castle nut and cotterpin but finger friendly.

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[cherrybomb]

A piece of flat stock with the nut welded to it,can be square,holes drilled in it,tighten up,then tarp strap or soft wire keeps from turning,kind of red neck,but functional.

 

[cherrybomb]

Kind of the same principal as a outdoor water faucet handle,with holes to tie off

 

[DenisG]

Look for cam lever fasteners (another name for the quick release fasteners used for bicycle seats and wheels).

 

[yhprum]

Not many dogsleds in my area, but what about a carriage bolt and a nylock wingnut? Like a push lawnmower uses on the folding handle.
http://www.marshallshardware.com/products/productList.aspx?uid=3662-411-546-235

 

[kctyphoon]

You want simple and redneck - drill a hole in each wing on the wing nuts, OR, JB weld a small washer to the outside of both wings on the wing nuts. - run a bungee cord from whatever washer or wing rotates DOWN to tighten, and attach the other side of the bungee to the metal cage floor on the sled..

The metal hooks on the bungee will clip onto the sled floor, and the wing nuts if you drill a hole or weld / JB weld small washers onto them, with bungee tension in the TIGHTENING position of the nut.

A rubber band wrapped around the bolt threads after the wing nuts might also work.

Both are simple and tool less to use.

I'd also try using split washers instead of star washers first.. on both the bolt AND nut side. Flat washers between the sled pipes..

As in - bolt head, split washer, flat washer - sled pipes - flat washer, split washer, flat washer, wing nut.. in my head - that's seems like the best combo to keep tension on the nut, and still be able to spin it off without it binding on a split washer.. I'd try that first before my other ghetto suggestions.

Another option might be to simply replace the wingnuts with a metal threaded plastic knob.

Like this - https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...TIf39AZYTTHmZDlw-6JcXHZIfY1ktWDhoCB1sQAvD_BwE

 

[Lelandwelds]

I don't think the bandaid approaches will work.

The problem is the bolt and the pipe are free to wiggle back and forth. I wouldn't clamp it tighter. I would move the bolt around 90° so it has to only resist being pulled straight out of its hole.

Weld a short piece of angle iron to the diagonal pipe. Have the inside of the angle iron leg pull against the upright pipe. Have the bolt pull the angle up tight.

This crappy drawing is a vertical view.

The angle does locate it in two positions. I would be tempted to leave the original bolt and add the new to tighten in two directions.

 

[seber]

Try Nord lock washers. I've never had one fail. http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would think if you used a normal washer + split washer + nylon wingnut, that is doubling up on holding it in place with two different methods...

 

[quadrcr87]

This should be quick and easy for her to use and have the ability to adjust tension. They are common on bike seat posts so I'm sure you can either find one that fits or adapt one to your application. Oh and get a shiny anodized one to add some bling to the sled.

 

[4xdog]

^ That's what I'd do, too.

And as a cyclist for the last forty five years, I have more than a few of those around here...

 

[Billythekid1]

Use the existing wing nut and drill a hole through the bolt with the wing nut tight then insert a Clevis pin through the bolt . The wings on the wing nut will catch the Clevis pin so the wing nut can't back off kinda like safety wire would hold a bolt on but the Clevis pin is the safety wire

 

[PR1Gneon]

Double nut.

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[theoldwizard1]

Nice, these are workable ideas—let me research a bit. In the meantime, here's the team:

I read a book about a guy training his team for the Iditarod. He had a much bigger team and started out with a bigger wheeled train sled. The dogs were pretty crazy and smashed him into a lot of trees.

He finally got an old car, removed all the glass and the engine and transmission and let the dogs pull him around inside of that. Much better work out for the dogs, much easier for the musher.

 

[bluebolt]

Right now that joint is in single shear and will always try to work loose. I would change it to double shear with some tabs. You could weld or bolt them to that tube or change the tube for a square tube which would make it even easier. The joint would be tighter without cranking down hard on the bolt.

 

[SonofnIrishman]

I think you need to isolate the pipes with a nylon washer, to act as compression to absorb some of the vibration between the pipes. That, with fine thread bolt/wingnut might be enough. Maybe add curved washers on the outside of the pipes for a larger grip area for your wingnut. McMaster has those.

Also, I'm a fan of the bicycle seat style hardware that quadrcr87 found.