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Tips on turning a thin wall bushing

01-7700

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I need to turn a bushing 1" long with a 5/8" ID and 0.043" wall thickness in aluminum. My lathe is a Grizzly 7x14. I anticipate this is going to be a challenge so what kind of issues will I run into? Any tips?
 
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bigguns69

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Iowa
Small bites. I would do the bore first, then finish the OD. If you finish the bore first you could support the thin wall by inserting a chunk of solid bar inside the bushing before finishing the OD.
 

yaidunno

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I made a 2" long .030" wall bushing just the other week in a similar diameter from steel. My process was to turn the OD to size, pilot drill the bore, finish drill the bore, and then ream to final size. When trying to made OD passes after the bore is drilled, you run the risk of chatter, in my experience.

Just my .02
 
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01-7700

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Small bites. I would do the bore first, then finish the OD. If you finish the bore first you could support the thin wall by inserting a chunk of solid bar inside the bushing before finishing the OD.

good ideas thanks
 

BuffettFan

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Did 2 of them yesterday in 4130 with a .047" wall. .6094 OD, .5156 ID from solid stock.
I roughed the ID to .4375, turned the OD, then finish drilled the ID, chamfered ID and OD, then parted it off.
1.375" OAL.
Not too tough, take your time and you'll get it.
 
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01-7700

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I made a 2" long .030" wall bushing just the other week in a similar diameter from steel. My process was to turn the OD to size, pilot drill the bore, finish drill the bore, and then ream to final size. When trying to made OD passes after the bore is drilled, you run the risk of chatter, in my experience.

Just my .02

Makes sense if you have the proper ream size. Thanks.
 
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01-7700

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Oct 19, 2017
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Maine USA
Did 2 of them yesterday in 4130 with a .047" wall. .6094 OD, .5156 ID from solid stock.
I roughed the ID to .4375, turned the OD, then finish drilled the ID, chamfered ID and OD, then parted it off.
1.375" OAL.
Not too tough, take your time and you'll get it.

Thanks. I don't have a lot of experience but I have enough aluminum for a good number of do overs.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
Many light cuts, sharp tool (minimum corner radius, but that's typical on a boring bar anyway to reduce tool-pressure), 6 jaw chuck or collet system all come to mind.
 
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bullnerd

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Jersey
ID, OD, Part. 0.043" wall isn't bad in aluminum.

That's what I was going to say. Sharp tool like mentioned would help. HSS if your not familiar with carbide.

I don't think your doing it in one pass like the vid.
 

kazlx

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Tustin, CA
How would I make this expanding mandrel? turn a cylinder and slit it?

Bingo. Turn the OD to maybe 0.005 (or less) under your finished ID of your part. Drill and tap and countersink for a countersink screw. Then slit on a bandsaw, or hacksaw or whatever. Slide your part on and tighten the screw. Don't kill it, just enough pressure to get what you need done.

I think Joe Pie has a good vid on these too:
 

kazlx

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His videos are awesome. I hope he doesn't change. Super helpful, usually right to the point with actual problem solving type stuff.
 
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01-7700

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Maine USA
Bingo. Turn the OD to maybe 0.005 (or less) under your finished ID of your part. Drill and tap and countersink for a countersink screw. Then slit on a bandsaw, or hacksaw or whatever. Slide your part on and tighten the screw. Don't kill it, just enough pressure to get what you need done.

I think Joe Pie has a good vid on these too:

Thanks so much!
 

snyder

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Baltimore md.
I would start with a 6 inch long peice of stock, drill and bore bar out the id. Turn down the od and cut off to length.
 
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