School me on digital multimeters, $10 C'man vs. $150 Fluke

[t100]

just as the title says, and for the sake of science, please don't make this one becomes another ******* contest quality tools vs. cheap tools.

I have a red C'man for years, served me well, basically I used it for measuring conductivity and voltage when doing household wiring works and car stereo, lighting stuff, nothing major. I'm gonna take a course called automotive electrical I, so I'm wondering if the basic meter doesn't cover the course, I'd rather buy a Fluke one for good.

let the lesson begin.

 

[krusty the clown]

please don't make this one becomes another ******* contest quality tools vs. cheap tools.

what the hell are you thinking

i don't think it's possible here.........



hell you could do everything with the $10 meter you could with the fluke, a real mechanic can fix an electrical proplem with a broken screwdriver and a piece of used chewing gum...........

 

[rodm1]

It boils down to functions and if you are willing to have your meter explode in your face or not.

http://www.esainspection.net/movie/Multimeter.wmv

 

[t100]

oh, the good old days when the easy way to find out if a wire is hot or not was just to put some spit on your fingers and hold both leads. if you feel the pinch in the spine, it's hot.

 

[t100]

It boils down to functions and if you are willing to have your meter explode in your face or not.

so, if the leads are fused, it would not have happened, right?

 

[Danglerb]

If you need to ask the question, you'll be fine with the cheap meter.

 

[Griff93]

One nice thing a nicer model meter will have is a min max recorder. This can be especially handy when checking a car for a drain. The ability to use a thermocouple can be very nice once in a while. It's not something you'll use very often but when you need it its nice to have. A lot of the nicer meters have the ability to use a remotely connected amp clamp. I've got some basic meters that I've used for years that are still serving me well. Knowing how to properly use your meter and actually understanding what your doing is much better than just buying an expensive meter loaded with functions. We have an apprentice at work that felt like he had to buy a $200+ meter but he has no idea how to use it.

 

[t100]

Griff, you got a good point. every car I bought, the first thing I did after getting it home was to read the manual. the last one was used, seller lost the manual, I paid $7 on ebay for an pdf copy. my school provides meters for students meters for in-class use, the reason I want to buy my own is I want to learn how to use it thoroughly instead of monkeying around with different meters from school.

 

[back2class]

If you need to ask the question, you'll be fine with the cheap meter.

Pretty much right on!

 

[kaffine]

I was an electrical/driveablity tech working on Dodges for 2 years then Freightliners for 2.5 years. For most of the time I used a cheap harborfreight DMM. I finally got a Fluke 289 when the Harborfreight meter died. One of my hobbies is electronics that is why I got the 289 if I got it only for automotive I would have probably gotten another Harborfreight meter. After getting the Fluke I still had a cheap meter in case someone needed to borrow one they didn't get the Fluke.

I would rather have a really good set of test leads and a cheap meter than a an expensive meter and cheap leads. As long as it has high impedance and the features you are going to use it should be good. Most auto electrical classes don't get into the advaced features or data logging that the higher end meters have. Fluke makes great meters and if you are using it constantly I wouldn't hesitate to get one but it is like the diffrence between a Cman and SO ratchet. They will both get the job done.

The features I used the most

Backlight on the display
Voltage both DC and AC
Contnuity buzzer best if I can set it to beep for either high or low resistance
Frequency
Duty Cycle
Resistance
Min/Max hold
Ammeter

 

[mcdtommy23]

It boils down to functions and if you are willing to have your meter explode in your face or not.

http://www.esainspection.net/movie/Multimeter.wmv

I think those examples are extreme. Anyone who is questioning a meter should never be working on something with that high of voltage or amperage.

I carry a craftsman meter and an amprobe meter with me at work and both have served me well. Believe me, being on a roof-top in freezing temps with calls coming in one after the other can cause one to leave a tool behind sometimes. I've also droped meters in snow banks, water puddles, etc. I'd much rather loose a cheap meter than a $$$$ Fluke.

 

[t100]

If you need to ask the question, you'll be fine with the cheap meter.

also, that's the reason I'm going to school.

 

[M900]

It boils down to functions and if you are willing to have your meter explode in your face or not.

http://www.esainspection.net/movie/Multimeter.wmv

I only got through the first two.
Which as far as I know were meters with explosive charges placed inside and then set off.
Those prove nothing.

 

[Danglerb]

HF has a Centech branded meter for $24 that I am tempted to buy. Big easy to read display, decent looking quality (actually one heck of a lot like another meter that sells for $100).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37772

They also have one for $36 with some automotive functions like rpm and dwell (actually handy to measure injector duty cycle I think), but my guess is that we will see MUCH more powerful automotive specific meters over the next few years, so I can't see sinking much into a specialty meter now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95670
.

 

[sanddrag]

Personally, for just about anything I get by just fine with my $3 HF meters. They're so cheap I have one in every place I need (desk, box, bag, drawer, etc). The only thing I wish they had is a beeper for continuity (really handy), and zero resistance reading when you touch the leads together.

 

[Mickey O]

HF has a Centech branded meter for $24 that I am tempted to buy. Big easy to read display, decent looking quality (actually one heck of a lot like another meter that sells for $100).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37772

They also have one for $36 with some automotive functions like rpm and dwell (actually handy to measure injector duty cycle I think), but my guess is that we will see MUCH more powerful automotive specific meters over the next few years, so I can't see sinking much into a specialty meter now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95670
.

Doesn't that Yugo look a lot like a Honda Civic or a VW Rabbit?

 

[Cameronl]

Over in the Antique Radios forum, the old-timers there say the $2 HF work well and are accurate. I've been happy with mine. I too have a few scattered about.

I also have a Craftsman MM that works great. I went to test an AC outlet, but had the meter set for DC. Got a big flash and scorched a probe, but it keeps on ticking.

 

[xroad]

Personally, for just about anything I get by just fine with my $3 HF meters. They're so cheap I have one in every place I need (desk, box, bag, drawer, etc). The only thing I wish they had is a beeper for continuity (really handy), and zero resistance reading when you touch the leads together.

I have a small Radio Shack meter from 30 years ago. Very flat, size a bit longer than a business card. Probe wire stored in the folded lid and not detachable. Batteries lasted for ever. Only changed it 2 times. Now it needs a change. The two coin type battery will cost me about $10. If I look really hard, maybe $6. The probe wire is open so I need to open the case and re-solder the disconnect. It is still a very nice meter with basic functions. I would not be using it at my job (electrical engineer, hardware design) but it serve me well in my personal life with cars, motorcycle, general household stuff.

HF meter is $3. Detachable probes, bigger, same basic functions, battery is cheap and easily available instead of the coin batteries and it is a throw away if lost. So I bought one. No brainer decision. Ultimate convenience since I am lazy. Only ONE minor drawback .... it is a size of a pack of cigarette.

I have an expensive meter, at home, but it rarely come out of the case for typical home owner need, car need, or bike need. BASIC functions is all you need if you are starting out. You'll be amaze how accurate the cheap meters are. I doubt you'll need to read voltages down to mV. Go buy the expensive one when it is time, you'll know it .....

BTW: The $10 cheap Sears one and the $3 cheap HF one may just use the same integrated circuit chip. So the functions are all the same with minor differences. Please don't start with the quality issues. We all know that already so no need to beat a head horse into a pulp. AND ..... Don't worry, they won't explode in your face and your willie won't fall off either.

 

[xroad]

It boils down to functions and if you are willing to have your meter explode in your face or not.

http://www.esainspection.net/movie/Multimeter.wmv

You put enough energy into anything quick enough, it'll explode. Fun video to watch but hardly real world. If any one look hard enough, they'll find a case where a person choke on a big wooden stirring spoon used for spaghetti sauce. Life is full of risk. We all have to decide how much risk to take.

 

[xroad]

I would rather have a really good set of test leads and a cheap meter than a an expensive meter and cheap leads.

+1

A good set of probe leads will cost more than many of the cheap meters. Meters, especially probes leads, gets beat up with normal use. With a cheap meter, I won't have to worry too much. With a "quality precision instrument", I always have to be diligent.

If anything, I would consider the size of the control knobs buttons displays ... The user interface if you may. As a beginner, you just need basic functions.

 

[scottmlew]

A used Fluke from eBay should last you your lifetime, and every time you use it you'll get that happy feeling from using a truly high quality tool. I smile every time I touch my Fluke equipment, be it a cheap lead or probe, or an expensive meter or thermometer. The stuff is just designed and built "just so", constantly reminding you that you're using a quality product.

 

[Kevin7909]

Hi All:

For just about anything 99% of people use hand held meters for, a $10 digital will be good enough if you know how to use it. Heck, for some applications a cheap analog is the better meter. If you can get a protective boot for your meter then stick with the cheapy.

As mentioned above, if you purchase a cheap meter, buy a good set of leads with attachments (alligators, needle point, SMD probe, etc.). I would also buy a set of PDA screen protective covers and cut them to size..when one gets scratched up just replace it...new display on your 10 year old meter .

You might be surprised how many R&D engineers prefer to use radio shack hand held meters over the fluke/agilent handhelds because they usually react faster and are just as accurate. The expensive meters usually have NIST certs which is why they are used in many applications.

Kevin

 

[AutoTech]

HF has a Centech branded meter for $24 that I am tempted to buy. Big easy to read display, decent looking quality (actually one heck of a lot like another meter that sells for $100).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37772

They also have one for $36 with some automotive functions like rpm and dwell (actually handy to measure injector duty cycle I think), but my guess is that we will see MUCH more powerful automotive specific meters over the next few years, so I can't see sinking much into a specialty meter now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95670
.

I have the $24 dollar HF meter use it everyday for quick voltage and continuity checks and it's just as accurate as my UEI and Electronic Specialies meters. I think you would be pleased with it.

 

[MarkIowa]

For automotive use, another vote for the cheap meter with an upgrade on the test leads...

Save the $100+ for good hand tools.

 

[norry]

I have a Fluke (because it was practically free - came with a big lot of stuff, the rest of which I sold for what I'd originally paid for the whole lot) and a few cheap meters. The Fluke is easier to use (auto range, peak hold, backlit LCD) and has a really nice case. As scottmlew said, it does have that 'quality tool' feeling - switches and buttons have a good positive feel and seem like they would last quite awhile. On the other hand, I've never had an issue with actual usability of the cheap ones I've used.

I'd say it depends on your budget and what you're planning to do with it. If you're planning to make a living with your meter, I'd say to get the good one. Used Fluke scope-meters are another interesting possibility and seem to offer a way that you can skip buying a multimeter - anyone tried one of those yet?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I just bought a new Fluke 15B off eBay for ~$50. It's very nice, very good quality. (Unfortunately made in china, i believe. ) Just a somewhat basic meter with normal "pointy" test leads, but to learn on is probably idea. That's what i bought it for.

 

[Kurt4440]

I would start off with a reasonably priced meter and some good test leads. I saw a few meters on the clearance rack in Sears a couple of weeks ago that would probably meet your needs.

 

[Kevin7909]

I have years of experience with the fluke scopemeter. I suggest that a tech not purchase this for automotive use unless it sits on a bench most of the time. It is large and heavy and very expensive for this application. Also, if someone is trying to master a multimeter he has no business using a scope, IMO.

I usually use a tektronix lunchbox if I need a scope and use multimeters when I need a 'one number' answer. The scopemeter is a great tool when I am in the field and need a 'no-frills' scope that works on batteries.

I would also suggest that if anyone is looking at spending $$$$ on a fluke, look into the agilent line of multimeters. They are not as hardy (no rubber boot), but the quality, features, and performance are outstanding for the price, imo.

Kevin

Used Fluke scope-meters are another interesting possibility and seem to offer a way that you can skip buying a multimeter - anyone tried one of those yet?

 

[Identaltech]

if your not working on percision electronics the cheaper meter will work for you.
if your calibrating $250000.00 x-rays you have to have a percision meter.
for automotive use yours will work good enough.
besides while your learning its better to blow a cheep meter than a good fluke meter.
been there done that.

 

[oldtools]

When on sale, the HF meter is only $1 (80 cents if you have a 20% coupon). How can you beat that? They must really underpaid these Chinese workers. Do they even make a profit selling at that price?

For automotive use (precision not required), a cheap one is good enough. I say buy the $1 HF meter and practice with it in school (don't have to worry about it getting stollen or mistreated). Once you learn how to use it well enough and out of school, then get a nicer one. All DVOM function very similar, so once you learn how to use the cheap one, you should pick up really quickly on the nicer one. I have a $20 DVOM that I have been using for 15 years. Once it die, I may upgrade to a nicer DVOM.

 

[John Timmins]

Short answer why I bought a Fluke 115 last year:

It has the continuity feature that makes noise so you can take your eyes off the meter.

I can test condensers for capacitance values.

If you buy a used Fluke and want to compare them with new ones on web sites, the model numbers change. A model 4-5 years old might have a different number now but an added feature.

The prices of the Fluke storage zip up bag and the alligator clips are insanely high.

 

[Chief]

Pretty much right on!

Guys lighten up

Isn't this board about sharing knowledge?

 

[Merkava_4]

If you ever need to test a TPS, a bar graph is damn near a necessity.

 

[Kevin7909]

This is one of those situations I was referring to where a cheapy analog might be a better tool than a cheapy digital.

If you ever need to test a TPS, a bar graph is damn near a necessity.

 

[krusty the clown]

This is one of those situations I was referring to where a cheapy analog might be a better tool than a cheapy digital.

the inductance of a cheap analog meter could damage computers...........

the fluke (and others) with the bar graph is a better choice. my blue point meter also has cable and softwre to graph readings on my laptop which is what i use for intermittants such as that.

 

[Merkava_4]

This is one of those situations I was referring to where a cheapy analog might be a better tool than a cheapy digital.

I'd rather have the bar graph directly below the digital display. That way I can still easily see the beginning voltage at closed throttle and the max voltage at full throttle. I need the bar graph to see the voltage progression.

 

[Kevin7909]

No argument here . Definitely is a better solution if you have the bargraph.

I'd rather have the bar graph directly below the digital display. That way I can still easily see the beginning voltage at closed throttle and the max voltage at full throttle. I need the bar graph to see the voltage progression.

 

[mcdtommy23]

HF has a Centech branded meter for $24 that I am tempted to buy. Big easy to read display, decent looking quality (actually one heck of a lot like another meter that sells for $100).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37772

They also have one for $36 with some automotive functions like rpm and dwell (actually handy to measure injector duty cycle I think), but my guess is that we will see MUCH more powerful automotive specific meters over the next few years, so I can't see sinking much into a specialty meter now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95670
.

Either one of those will serve you well.

 

[Kevin7909]

I missed this one...I assumed that the unit would be unplugged and the resistance setting on the meter would be used, hence isolating the computer from the test. We all know what assuming does....

the inductance of a cheap analog meter could damage computers...........

the fluke (and others) with the bar graph is a better choice. my blue point meter also has cable and softwre to graph readings on my laptop which is what i use for intermittants such as that.

 

[mkdive]

Digital Multi Meter = DMM