Dremel - not great quality and/or not durable enough?

[myredracer]

I bought a Dremel 3000 kit new about a year or so ago. I've been using it a lot for restoring a car body and use a 1" cutoff wheel on it. I use it for cutting a slot in the metal before using a body saw and trimming small pieces but use it mostly for knocking down some mig welds closer after I've done an initial grinding down with a die grinder. I like the almost surgical tool feel and precision it has and it can also get to some cramped spots a 3" wheel on a die grinder can't.

The multi-speed switch burned out a few weeks ago so I bought a new OEM replacement switch. The switch failed again yesterday and I need another one. First, it stopped working on all multi-speed settings and on full speed only - same thing happened on the original switch too.

Are these Dremel tools not up to the task and only good for the occasional balsa wood project? Is it a quality issue? Can't blame it on China - they're hecho en Mexico. I use this thing daily (I'm now retired) and am kinda stuck without it. The new switch I got cost me something like $40 (Can.) and I hesitate to get another one that's gonna burn out again in short order. There is a 2 year warranty on this tool but I got it on Amazon or ebay and can't find the purchase history on it anywhere, pffft.

What about perhaps getting the Dremel 4000 "high performance" model? Would it be any better? Or is there another brand of similar tool that is more durable? The 400 has a 1.6 amp motor and the 3000 a 1.2 amp one. I never have a problem with lack of power. I don't seen anything else in the description that indicates the 4000 is tougher.

I don't need multi-speeds and always run it on full speed. What about bypassing the switch and putting an external switch on the power cord? The field coils have 4 connections and don't know if they are wired in series or parallel.

Thanks!

 

[lakeroadster]

They are a light duty hobby style tool. I only use mine for very precise cuts where very slow speeds are needed.

For heavy duty work I use my air die grinder.

 

[Parrothead]

Go pick up an older Dremel 395 off eBay. They’re built much better than what’s available new. I’ve got one and have had it for years. Used and abused often.

I don’t care much about COO, but the older ones are made in the USA which in this case actually does matter.

 

[cybrdyke]

I got it on Amazon or ebay and can't find the purchase history on it anywhere, pffft.

Both of those have a purchase history tab that lets you go back pretty far to see all your purchases. You may already know this.....
CD

 

[exmaxima1]

I've never had a failed switch but I've had to replace numerous flexible couplings that deteriorate and crumble over time. Seems odd to use a cheap piece of plastic to couple the collet to the motor shaft, and expect it to last.

 

[CJM8515]

I use mine for hobby type work, but its been 10 years and I never had any issues. I think you need an air cut off wheel OP

 

[sberry]

I got one, dont recall ever using it. Never would have occured to me for auto body. You need to learn not to leave yourself in a corner etc, i have never seen a body man use one on a car.
My tech has one, works in electronics and uses it on occasion.

 

[6PTsocket]

If you can tolerate a little more bulk, there are plenty of 1/4" electric die grinders around. If you want to use the Dremel 1/8" bits, there are reducers available and in some cases like my old Makita GEO600, 1/8" collets. My Makita is single speed but if I want to slow it down, there are a number of plug in speed controllers. They are generally sold to slow down single speed routers. I have a heavy duty model from MLCS. I also have an older Dremel. I think the model number is XPR 400. At the time it was a big power increase to 2 amps from earlier models that were 1.15 amps. Without checking, I think the current 4000 has a bigger motor than the 3000. Check the current ratings. That might make it less prone to burn out. Hopefully they use a heavier speed controller. You could check replacement parts for each and see if it is a different part number. I have never pushed mine as hard as you have and I suspect It is more than any Dremel can take. It is a hobby tool. You say there are 4 wires going to the switch. Do two of them go to the power cord? They may just be cutting both sides of the AC line for safety.

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[jonesg]

I bought a Dremel 3000 kit new about a year or so ago. I've been using it a lot for restoring a car body and use a 1" cutoff wheel on it. I use it for cutting a slot in the metal before using a body saw and trimming small pieces but use it mostly for knocking down some mig welds closer after I've done an initial grinding down with a die grinder. I like the almost surgical tool feel and precision it has and it can also get to some cramped spots a 3" wheel on a die grinder can't.

The multi-speed switch burned out a few weeks ago so I bought a new OEM replacement switch. The switch failed again yesterday and I need another one. First, it stopped working on all multi-speed settings and on full speed only - same thing happened on the original switch too.

Are these Dremel tools not up to the task and only good for the occasional balsa wood project? Is it a quality issue? Can't blame it on China - they're hecho en Mexico. I use this thing daily (I'm now retired) and am kinda stuck without it. The new switch I got cost me something like $40 (Can.) and I hesitate to get another one that's gonna burn out again in short order. There is a 2 year warranty on this tool but I got it on Amazon or ebay and can't find the purchase history on it anywhere, pffft.

What about perhaps getting the Dremel 4000 "high performance" model? Would it be any better? Or is there another brand of similar tool that is more durable? The 400 has a 1.6 amp motor and the 3000 a 1.2 amp one. I never have a problem with lack of power. I don't seen anything else in the description that indicates the 4000 is tougher.

I don't need multi-speeds and always run it on full speed. What about bypassing the switch and putting an external switch on the power cord? The field coils have 4 connections and don't know if they are wired in series or parallel.

Thanks!

Check out the Milwaukee cutoff dremel.
It doesn't put all the power directly through the switch, doesnt get inductive kick back which is probably frying your switch.

 

[finn]

I still have the Dremel , complete with steel box and printed material, that I got for Christmas in 1966.

I bet it doesn’t have a total of 1 hour run time in 51 years.

It’s not a tool suitable for auto body work. More of a hobby detailing tool.

 

[sberry]

I still have the Dremel , complete with steel box and printed material, that I got for Christmas in 1966.

I bet it doesn’t have a total of 1 hour run time in 51 years.

It’s not a tool suitable for auto body work. More of a hobby detailing tool.

Your has more use than mine.

 

[DFB]

Ya really those are just for hobby projects and they do get hot with extended run time. Gosh the little cutting discs shatter so easily too. Should probably get an 3" electric cut off tool. A cheapie at HF is like only $20 before coupon discount

 

[royesses]

Look at a Proxxon, more expensive but made for heavy duty use:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2891&category=

 

[ca90ss]

Check out the Milwaukee cutoff dremel.
It doesn't put all the power directly through the switch, doesnt get inductive kick back which is probably frying your switch.

The Milwaukee is only suitable for very light duty work, I've had to replace mine a few times under warranty and wasn't pushing them very hard when they failed.

 

[RCL]

I purchased a Proxxon after burning up my Dremel and have been very pleased.

 

[unslow1]

I would never even consider using a Dremel for heavier work like that. I ave used body saws, air cut-off wheel and sometimes a cheap plasma cutter. I like the idea of an electric cut-off wheel. The air ones keep the compressor running.

 

[myredracer]

I have several 1/4" die grinders that I use regularly and they're what I usually start with and use various 2" or 3" flap discs and sanding discs. I use a Dynabrade air sander in hard to reach spots and sometimes a DA sander or angle grinder with sanding disc on larger open areas. I simply often find the Dremel is what works well for me. For one thing, I'm near-sighted and it allows me to see close up and with good precision (with full face mask + hearing protection) and see really clearly. The Dremel also creates less heat which is good for thin sheet metal. There's lots of people out there that use a Dremel for restoration work.

I'm not doing collision repair, I'm restoring a couple of vintage cars which need more care, finesse & intricacy - it's not like working on an old truck or agricultural equip. Photos are copies of factory original fender flares I just made from scratch for ex. For me it would be harder and slower without the Dremel. I use a 1" reinforced fiberglass cutoff wheel and move the edge over welds which works great on 20 gauge sheet metal or sometimes on the even thinner OEM metal.

The 4000 and 3000 switches have different part numbers. One online vendor says about the 4000 switches "THIS PART IS RARELY ORDERED ..." which is a good sign. I may just get a new 4000 and keep the 3000 as a spare. Not sure about the older 395 because it looks to have the same switch as the 3000. It looks like the electronic speed switch is the weak spot and internet says switch failures are common. Maybe it is the inductance and inrush current when starting that is hard on the switches. The 3000 Dremel has otherwise been perfectly fine mechanically and power-wise. Proxxon looks interesting.

 

[kwschumm]

I used a dremel in the 60s and early 70s to build 1/24 slot car chassis out of brass stock and piano wire. It was great for hobbies but even then it got really hot just cutting a small piece of .032 brass out for parts. There really are better tools for body work.

 

[Ji m]

I had one 25+ years ago,
even used it to port a cast iron intake manifold (I was laid off lol),
I lent it out, and the guy killed it after 5 minutes.

Good tools,
but I guess I should have told him "let the tool do the work" is more about Dremel's than anything else.

I never got around to getting another one,
I'm sure they haven't gotten any more durable in the last 25 years.

 

[cgrutt]

Probably not ideal for your application but Foredom makes heavy duty rotory tools that use dremel style bits and accessories. They use a detached motor and flexible shaft. I think they are used more for bench work though. Could probably fabricate a movable stand for it though (like an IV holder, LOL). I'm going to check out that Proxxon myself.

https://www.foredom.net/

 

[Git]

I was also going to mention Foredom. Very high quality with a vast array of attachments. You usually hang the motor it has a flex shaft and you operate it with a foot pedal

http://www.foredom.net/accessories.aspx

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Die grinder>Foredom>Dremel
You got the wrong tool for the job, but I don't think there is anything especially wrong with them. I don't use the cut wheels for anything bigger than maybe a new slot in a wood screw.
they are great for getting a little brush in a tight spot though.

 

[davethorik]

This is a great thread. "I got a Dremel 50 years ago, and NEVER used it, but YOU are using the WRONG TOOL!"

I have an older 2 speed model and I've used the **** out of that thing. Mostly with 1/8 shank carbide burrs to deburr machined parts *gasp* and even sometimes welds needing knocked down!

For fine deburring work the hierarchy is more like this:
High end pneumatic pencil grinder>HF pink pneumatic pencil grinder>Dremel.

The only reason Dremel is last on my list- the motor tends to blow debris about (make sure you wear safety glasses and preferably a face shield). Foredom doesn't make the list because they're a pain in the *** to use with the stand and cable becoming liabilities in a lot of situations. Die grinders, even smallish pneumatic, are too large. Electric die grinders are WAY too large.

 

[6PTsocket]

I have several 1/4" die grinders that I use regularly and they're what I usually start with and use various 2" or 3" flap discs and sanding discs. I use a Dynabrade air sander in hard to reach spots and sometimes a DA sander or angle grinder with sanding disc on larger open areas. I simply often find the Dremel is what works well for me. For one thing, I'm near-sighted and it allows me to see close up and with good precision (with full face mask + hearing protection) and see really clearly. The Dremel also creates less heat which is good for thin sheet metal. There's lots of people out there that use a Dremel for restoration work.

I'm not doing collision repair, I'm restoring a couple of vintage cars which need more care, finesse & intricacy - it's not like working on an old truck or agricultural equip. Photos are copies of factory original fender flares I just made from scratch for ex. For me it would be harder and slower without the Dremel. I use a 1" reinforced fiberglass cutoff wheel and move the edge over welds which works great on 20 gauge sheet metal or sometimes on the even thinner OEM metal.

The 4000 and 3000 switches have different part numbers. One online vendor says about the 4000 switches "THIS PART IS RARELY ORDERED ..." which is a good sign. I may just get a new 4000 and keep the 3000 as a spare. Not sure about the older 395 because it looks to have the same switch as the 3000. It looks like the electronic speed switch is the weak spot and internet says switch failures are common. Maybe it is the inductance and inrush current when starting that is hard on the switches. The 3000 Dremel has otherwise been perfectly fine mechanically and power-wise. Proxxon looks interesting.

After seeing that Milwaukee video, I would not look at another Dremel. In spite of any weaknesses found in the review, the Milwaukee next to a Dremel looks like bulldozer next to a Vespa. I didn't even know the Milwaukee tool existed. It is far more powerful and sophisticated. You can learn a lot on these threads. That guy is pisser. He is super knowledeable about engineering and chemistry and has worked in Asia and knows a lot about manufacturing. His delivery is fun, too. I learned a new word, skookum

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[finn]

Your has more use than mine.

I was being overly generous with my run time estimate.

 

[kabinenroller]

You should be dealing directly with the Dremel corporate office in Racine Wisconsin. Being that I am within a few miles of that office when I have a problem with a tool I just stop there and they either fix it or replace it while I wait. No questions or excuses, they don’t even ask my name.
These are really light duty tools and are not designed to have a load on them constantly or get over heated. They do a work nice for small jobs.
Jim

 

[finn]

This is a great thread. "I got a Dremel 50 years ago, and NEVER used it, but YOU are using the WRONG TOOL!"

I have an older 2 speed model and I've used the **** out of that thing. Mostly with 1/8 shank carbide burrs to deburr machined parts *gasp* and even sometimes welds needing knocked down!

For fine deburring work the hierarchy is more like this:
High end pneumatic pencil grinder>HF pink pneumatic pencil grinder>Dremel.

The only reason Dremel is last on my list- the motor tends to blow debris about (make sure you wear safety glasses and preferably a face shield). Foredom doesn't make the list because they're a pain in the *** to use with the stand and cable becoming liabilities in a lot of situations. Die grinders, even smallish pneumatic, are too large. Electric die grinders are WAY too large.

Go to the Dremel website. They market the tool primarily to crafters. That target market is what the tool was designed to serve, and I am sure it does a good job for that purpose.

The site also links to project ideas. The “Car Care” example shows the tool grinding a paint chip smaller than your pinky nail to bare metal for application of some touch up paint.

It isn’t designed for cutting off quarter panels and such.

I’m not a crafter, sand, as such, don’t have a use for the tool, and, looking at the design, recognize that using it for auto body repair would not be satisfactory.

Sort of like using a tack hammer to drive 16 penny nails to frame a house. Wrong tool, but it’s not the tool’s fault.

It’s the carpenter.

 

[Wamsutta]

Go pick up an older Dremel 395 off eBay. They’re built much better than what’s available new. I’ve got one and have had it for years. Used and abused often.

That number sounded familiar, so I went and looked at mine. It says Model 395 T6. 5-35,000 RPM variable speed. It's been an excellent tool. Variable speed is a necessity, otherwise those cut off wheels fly apart.

 

[Fbmoose48]

Look at a Proxxon, more expensive but made for heavy duty use:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2891&category=

I have the Proxxon, you won't be disappointed. Burn out 2 Dremels and suddenly its more economical too.

 

[davethorik]

Go to the Dremel website. They market the tool primarily to crafters. That target market is what the tool was designed to serve, and I am sure it does a good job for that purpose.

The site also links to project ideas. The “Car Care” example shows the tool grinding a paint chip smaller than your pinky nail to bare metal for application of some touch up paint.

It isn’t designed for cutting off quarter panels and such.

I’m not a crafter, sand, as such, don’t have a use for the tool, and, looking at the design, recognize that using it for auto body repair would not be satisfactory.

Sort of like using a tack hammer to drive 16 penny nails to frame a house. Wrong tool, but it’s not the tool’s fault.

It’s the carpenter.

I understand what you are saying, but re-read 1st post. Op using it to cut slots to start bigger saw. Some deburring of welds. I would not think that constitutes tool abuse.

 

[Parrothead]

This is a great thread. "I got a Dremel 50 years ago, and NEVER used it, but YOU are using the WRONG TOOL!"

I admit I got a kick out of it too

I've used mine a bunch, and it's still ticking. I figure it's at least 15 years old, or more? Works great. Yes, it gets hot if you use it for a long time...but MOVE YOUR HAND off the vents. lol. Even then it does get hot and needs a break occasionally. I bought the reinforced cut off discs and use them almost exclusively.

I've used it to fix a tile job screw up by, well, not me. I've used to to fix rust spots, cut pipe, remove rivets, notch bolts, cut in a doggie door and countless other things. I wouldn't be without mine, and in fact I bough one just to go with my travel tools, that's how helpful they are.

 

[bonneyman]

Go pick up an older Dremel 395 off eBay. They’re built much better than what’s available new. I’ve got one and have had it for years. Used and abused often.

I don’t care much about COO, but the older ones are made in the USA which in this case actually does matter.

Yeah, the older style has a RED speed adjuster - the older old ones say "Made in Racine, Wis." on them. The newer models with the BLUE selector are not as durable.

This is good to know when you're digging thru bins at a pawn shop or estate sale. The red selector versions are visibly more worn and can usually be had relatively cheaply.

 

[6PTsocket]

A Dremel can last for years but it is a light duty tool. I have had a few and have one now but there are jobs for which there are better choices. You have to size the tool to the job. A light duty tool might do the job a few times but it won't last. I agree, it is for finer hobby tasks and I have also used mine where it was not the best choice.

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[Ben1967]

I use my Dremel for small, exact cuts. Never had a problem, great brand,and tool!

 

[sberry]

It can amaze me how some people can use something all the time and some never. I maintain about everything essential to modern life, got it just in case, wouldn't miss it if it was gone and never consider it. I use bigger stuff.
A bit the same with the ratchets, it seems like a popular idea to put 3/8 guts in a 1/4 and I got to wonder why? I am somewhat the opposite, I try to use as heavy as a tool as I can. One of my helpers was fussing with a bolt for 45 minutes, I reach over 2 ft and get a 1/2 ratchet and in 10 seconds do it. I did run in to an occasion the other day where a smaller air gun would have helped b8ut its so rare for me that its not worth another layer of tools. It would likely be true,,, and would if I really was under the hood of cars for 40 hrs a week.

 

[kelpaso1]

Ya really those are just for hobby projects and they do get hot with extended run time. Gosh the little cutting discs shatter so easily too. Should probably get an 3" electric cut off tool. A cheapie at HF is like only $20 before coupon discount

Get the 1-1/4" reinforced cutting disks Dremel #426. Way better and stronger.
I also have model 395 that is 20 years old and have had no problems with it.

 

[skunkape1]

Another item to watch for on the used market are Craftsman rotary tools. AFAIK they have always been made by Dremel. I have 2 Craftsman model 572 which I think is the equivalent of the 395. They are made in the USA and are better quality than the more recent Dremel 4000 that I own.

There are times I used the Dremel too hard and after a brush replacement, the button/screw that holds the brushes in doesn't exert enough pressure causing me to have to push down on it at times to maintain speed.

I have used the Craftsman models longer and just as hard and have not even had to replace brushes yet. I have many other die grinders, angle grinders, etc. both air and electric at my disposal but sometimes only the Dremel/Cman will do the trick. They're handy tools for sure, but do have their limitations.

 

[intillzah]

I bought myself a cheapo Dremel here last year, so far:

I used it to cut the nut off of a shock on my Sonoma

Make a hole in some metal for a lock on my file cabinets

And to enlarge holes for new lock cylinders (I want 1 key to run multiple locks)

And to trim various pieces of metal and to sand them as well

So far for a el cheapo. I am more that satisfied.. If you find a tool that works for what you need. That's what counts..

 

[catalytic]

I have:
-1 multispeed corded dremel from 2002
-1 single speed dremel from 1960
-a $1k Dumore USA flexshaft
-I've used numerous Foredom flexshafts

For what they are, the dremels are great. I have probably over 150 hours on them, as I used to love to use them for wood carving and small metalwork/jewelry when I was a kid. I have never burned one out, despite overloading it for hours at a time (i.e. grind until it slowed almost to a stop, then let it get back to speed, then grind until it slowed almost to a stop...)

Obviously, I much prefer my Dumore, as it has a lot more power, less vibration, better collet system... but the dremel is fantastic for a little relatively inexpensive consumer grade tool, esp. as long as you don't need a ton of power for what you're doing.

The only thing they make that is junk, IMHO, are the attachments (such as the router attachment) -- I never could get those to do anything worthwhile.

That said, I don't know if they've changed something around in the last 15 years. Certainly, I've put my multispeed through hell and did not have your issue.

If you want to step up, look for a Foredom flexshaft (still made in USA) or a Dumore USA flexshaft or handheld die grinder. You can find them used on ebay with some frequency. They are fairly easy to maintain -- you might need new bearings, brushes, and grease -- about $25 for all in the worst case if you buy them from the mfg, or less if you don't.

Or just look for an older all metal Dremel with no varispeed. Mine is built like a tank. A variac or router speed control or foot speed control will do the same thing as your broken multi-speed switch if you really need variable speed.

 

[ItsNemo]

I've generally found dremel's and their clones to be kinda gimmicky for any real sort of work. 9 times out of 10 I'm grabbing a die grinder first.