Long C Craftsman drill press, yay or nay?

[silly]

About to go buy this from craigslist, $60, worth it? I want it for home use.

 

[thehorse13]

If it works, I'd pay 60 bucks for that drill press. The table is not full of holes and provided that everything works as it should, it will clean up beautifully.

 

[silly]

Thanks horse, I think a new belt is in order, agreed it can clean up well and can be a fun project! I’ll make sure to follow up on this threat with progress

 

[Maui]

I have the floor standing version of that same drill press. It is solid. For $60 I would buy it in a heartbeat.

 

[Maui]

You can see photos of mine here for comparison:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378546&highlight=maui+craftsman+drill+press

Maui

 

[exmaxima1]

I can tell you that the chrome spindle guard on the top is worth more than $60 all by itself.

Interesting that it has a 3-spoke quill handle, as the vast majority were 4-spoke. My 1941 model has 4-spokes, but not sure which version is older.

 

[FrankLee]

About to go buy this from craigslist, $60, worth it? I want it for home use.

Yay. That should serve you well.

It looks like the smaller Atlas drill press. I also had one. Mine did not come equipped with the factory spindle guard.

The hub does not look original to that machine and I believe it replaced a two handle rod. See my link above.

The worst part about this model is that it was a huge pita to r&r the column in the base... common on that size Atlas & Atlas Craftsman presses.

 

[cash68]

Electrolysis bath, steel wool, paint, reassemble.

 

[silly]

Got it, thanks for the advice! Very solid, anyone know the product number and if there are any manuals?

FrankLee just saw your post! Awesome
Excited

 

[jakemac]

What's the model number ?
Is it a 12", 15", or inbetween ?

Either way, it's pre-1940, possibly 1937(??).
I have a 1941 version w/ third pulley and it's a workhorse.
Up here, they'd be asking $125 for it no matter the details.
As stated, the spindle cover alone is worth what you paid.
Good find.

 

[Davefr]

Got it, thanks for the advice! Very solid, anyone know the product number and if there are any manuals?

Go to vintagemachinery.org and download the Atlas #64 manual. It'll be nearly identical to your machine. They are nice machines.

 

[exmaxima1]

Yay. That should serve you well.

It looks like the smaller Atlas drill press.

It looks like mine and that would be 15". What other size did they come in ?

 

[454ragtop]

It looks like mine and that would be 15". What other size did they come in ?

I had a very similar one that was incomplete I recently parted out, that one had a 12-3/4" throat.

 

[1982fxr]

Think I have the same one sold as sears companion.

Extremely tight, almost like they accidentally made a precision dp without meaning too. I’ve read others saying the same about them. FWIW

 

[Sawdustmaker]

That drill press is a workhorse. Clean it up and use it.
Attached is a pic of mine. Belonged to my dad.
Sorry about the sideways pics. Original motor, still runs strong.

 

[Davefr]

Think I have the same one sold as sears companion.

Extremely tight, almost like they accidentally made a precision dp without meaning too. I’ve read others saying the same about them. FWIW

+1^^^^

It's one of the only DP's I've seen with absolutely zero measurable runout. The dial indicator gauge doesn't even move.

I thought mine was a factory freak but I guess they engineered them with that precision.

 

[silly]

Thanks or the great advice!

Some pictures, and it’s indeed 101.03581!

Any guesses as of age? I take it the motor is not original? Best belt to buy? Enamel paint with or without p im By?

Cheers

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks or the great advice!

Some pictures, and it’s indeed 101.03581!

Any guesses as of age? I take it the motor is not original? Best belt to buy? Enamel paint with or without p im By?

Cheers

That is likely a mid-'30s to early '40s machine. No, a Powr-Kraft motor would not be original to a Craftsman machine. It may be the same era tho.

My preference is a cogged belt.

Please try to clean the paint first. It's only original once. It looks really good on the head frame casting.

 

[thehorse13]

Thanks or the great advice!

Some pictures, and it’s indeed 101.03581!

Any guesses as of age? I take it the motor is not original? Best belt to buy? Enamel paint with or without p im By?

Cheers

Take your old belt down to Tractor Supply or store similar. They have bulk belt sections and you can find USA made belts to replace the one you have. Make sure you look on the belt because they sneak in stuff that's made in India and other places as well.

15 bucks later, you'll be back in business.

An educated age guess based on the logo is late 30s - early 40s.

 

[exmaxima1]

My preference is a cogged belt.

+1
Cogged belts run smoother on those smaller diameter pulleys, and are more efficient on fractional hp machines.

 

[jakemac]

A digital copy of the parts list can be found here :

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=928

Printed in 1938. It's not much help, but that's all there is.


Here is clip from another post that I made with my recollections about dating Craftman/Atlas DP's.

Rough dating on Crafsman labeled Atlas DP's is determined mostly by the handle configuration and shape of the switch plate on the side. (Atlas followed slightly different dressing on their labeled DP's of the same models, so the dates for those would be different)

2 - Handles (one bar through the hub) = 1936 and earlier
3 - Handles = 1937/38
4 - Handles = 1939+

No switch/plate = pre-1937
Oval switch plate = 1939 and earlier
Rectangular switch plate = 1940+

These dates are off the top of my head, so they could be slightly off.

Let's assume that the handle configuration is original, then your DP would have been made in '37/'38. The next question becomes, did it originally have an on/off switch on the head near the handles.

We would need to see a side shot of that side of the press to look for a roughly 1/2" hole. Then study the paint around it to determine the shape of the switchplate. (This applies to the 15" DP's, I'm not as familiar with the nuances of the smaller versions)


EDIT :
Google-Fu has determined that this was originally a 2-handled 12-3/4" DP from ’37/'38 with no switch on the head.

I guess my research on handles and switches only applies to the 15" version.

 

[silly]

Please try to clean the paint first. It's only original once. It looks really good on the head frame casting.

I love Patina or age, Problem is that it’s missing paint in quite a few places, I’ll do a soft clean tonight, take pics and asses. Thanks

 

[FrankLee]

I love Patina or age, Problem is that it’s missing paint in quite a few places, I’ll do a soft clean tonight, take pics and asses. Thanks

Good plan.

What are your plans for that hub & feed handles?

 

[silly]

I think I’m just going to keep it as it is, functional, it’s not a museum piece, it’s a great tool that I can use. I don’t think $60 would get me very far at HF..

It cleaned up nicely, took me 5 hours wow.., I’m going to leave the Patina with the original blue I think.

Only issue is one of the pulleys is damaged

 

[FrankLee]

I think I’m just going to keep it as it is, functional, it’s not a museum piece, it’s a great tool that I can use. I don’t think $60 would get me very far at HF..

It cleaned up nicely, took me 5 hours wow.., I’m going to leave the Patina with the original blue I think.

Only issue is one of the pulleys is damaged

Nice job... that looks great!

 

[thehorse13]

It cleaned up exactly as I thought it would. It's beautiful.

As for your pulley, that's an easy fix. All in all, a great tool at give away pricing.

 

[lafester]

Looks great! Only thing I would consider doing to it is polishing the paint off the craftsman logo to make it stand out.

 

[bubinga]

Go to vintagemachinery.org and download the Atlas #64 manual. It'll be nearly identical to your machine. They are nice machines.

I like those "Funky" old looking drill presses.

+1
Cogged belts run smoother on those smaller diameter pulleys, and are more efficient on fractional hp machines.

+ 2, but buy local, Not the cheapest cogged belt you can find On ebay.
I did that once, and it had a bump to it. Must have been a return or something.....
Had good luck with the ones from Auto Zone.

Nice job... that looks great!

Yes It Does!

As for your pulley, that's an easy fix. All in all, a great tool at give away pricing.

How would you Fix it?
or do you mean replacing it?

 

[bubinga]

I think I’m just going to keep it as it is, functional, it’s not a museum piece, it’s a great tool that I can use. I don’t think $60 would get me very far at HF..

It cleaned up nicely, took me 5 hours wow.., I’m going to leave the Patina with the original blue I think.

Only issue is one of the pulleys is damaged

You gave it the look that it's in like new condition, and not used much, and been well taken care of.
just a few little "battle scares"

 

[gpw_42]

Silly, you did a GREAT job with the press! Glad to see that you saved the original paint, and hope that you get years of pleasant use.

Steve

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Only issue is one of the pulleys is damaged

Had the same issue with mine a few years back. The pulleys are aluminum. One of the welding instructors at the college where I taught was able to weld a piece and repair the break on mine (very similar to your break). I then used some files and emery cloth to shape and polish the weld so the pulley runs smooth. Took some time, but worth it. Those little dimples drilled into the pulley were put there at the factory to balance the pulley. Mine is a bit off, but hasn't been an issue. I use mine for woodworking.

 

[exmaxima1]

Had the same issue with mine a few years back. The pulleys are aluminum. One of the welding instructors at the college where I taught was able to weld a piece and repair the break on mine (very similar to your break). I then used some files and emery cloth to shape and polish the weld so the pulley runs smooth. Took some time, but worth it. Those little dimples drilled into the pulley were put there at the factory to balance the pulley. Mine is a bit off, but hasn't been an issue. I use mine for woodworking.

Those balancing holes are a key reason that older Delta and Atlas presses ran so smooth. Consumer grade presses, including the King-Seeley stuff, rarely have balanced pulleys and rarely do they do well at the highest spindle speeds.

 

[DaveT]

I think I’m just going to keep it as it is, functional, it’s not a museum piece, it’s a great tool that I can use. I don’t think $60 would get me very far at HF..

It cleaned up nicely, took me 5 hours wow.., I’m going to leave the Patina with the original blue I think.

Only issue is one of the pulleys is damaged

Wow I think it’s beautiful. Great job! What method did you use to clean the pole and the table/base?

 

[BFBOB]

I paid $50 for mine, minus the spindle cone. I vote YES.

oops- just read the rest of the thread. Good for you!

 

[Plombob]

If you are in Southern California, you should consider having GJ member Zeet restore it for you. Here's what he did to my drill press.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391200

 

[hawkscoach]

great timing. I just bought one of these at an auction for 30 bucks. runs great and I spent a day cleaning, etc. so I can "restore". Question: it has the 4 handles and that part is the last thing I need to disassemble. How does the handle part come off? I carefully taped on the handle to back it off the gear. it moved about 1/8" and stopped. I don't want to damage so am I missing something? I may not have the part language correct, however, if I can get the handle out, the chuck assembly/geared rod, will come out? which will allow me to properly clean, lube and paint before reassembly. thanks, Doug

 

[DaveT]

great timing. I just bought one of these at an auction for 30 bucks. runs great and I spent a day cleaning, etc. so I can "restore". Question: it has the 4 handles and that part is the last thing I need to disassemble. How does the handle part come off? I carefully taped on the handle to back it off the gear. it moved about 1/8" and stopped. I don't want to damage so am I missing something? I may not have the part language correct, however, if I can get the handle out, the chuck assembly/geared rod, will come out? which will allow me to properly clean, lube and paint before reassembly. thanks, Doug

Hi Doug,
I am restoring one now and had the exact same question a couple weeks ago. There should be a screw in the center on the handle. That is a setscrew that holds a pin in on the backside of the handle. Remove that screw and then punch out the pin on the backside of the handle. It is a large pin about 1/4 inch diameter. Once you remove that pin the handle should come off and that shaft will be removed through the other end. Be sure to lock the quill or hold onto it. It will drop out whe you remove the shaft. Hope that helps

 

[hawkscoach]

Dave,

Perfect? thanks! I saw the pin and figured it played into it.

Regards,

Doug

 

[Smokeshow69]

I think I’m just going to keep it as it is, functional, it’s not a museum piece, it’s a great tool that I can use. I don’t think $60 would get me very far at HF..

It cleaned up nicely, took me 5 hours wow.., I’m going to leave the Patina with the original blue I think.

Only issue is one of the pulleys is damaged

Silly- that clean up job you did looks fantastic! So glad you didn’t repaint it. If you were in my area I would try to triple your investment! Did you get your pulley replaced or repaired?


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Smokeshow69]

+1^^^^



It's one of the only DP's I've seen with absolutely zero measurable runout. The dial indicator gauge doesn't even move.



I thought mine was a factory freak but I guess they engineered them with that precision.

Have you guys ever measured the runout on a Mohawk dp? Just wondering if these are precise as well or if they are more commercial like the king Seeley with less precision? Thoughts?


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